ISX

Damnnn! Looks good. Bring it by so I can sit on it

I knew AH64ID had some info on this and I dug up this thread. Says it is smoother at low boost because of more air, and that was with just a stage 1 colt. I am not sure if the power is smoother or if the noise is smoother though, maybe he will see this and confirm. At idle I would expect the engine to be going so slow that there wouldn't really be any air flow issues and the engine already runs very lean. Your experiences seem to say otherwise and I'd like to dig up some more info. Do you have the lift specs on it?

Will this bracket be in stores locally or is it a custom made piece that I will have to special order? Is there a special orange version? I do like it I might copy it with aluminum for lighter weight and aerodynamics.

The pre-injection! The entire knock of a diesel is derived from the sudden explosion of the fuel being injected. If you can spray in just a little bit, you can get the fire going with very little noise, once it is going you can throw in the main injection and since the fire is already going it transitions very smoothly with no noise. IFFF they did not have a preinjection, they would knock louder than a VP44 truck because the pressure is instant. Mechanical pumps have a "wave" where the pressure starts, peaks, and falls back down. Because of this, it starts off with low volume which produces less knock, then peaks and falls back down. VP44 trucks have higher pressures so they knock more than 12V's. People will debate that but I have thought bolts were falling off my truck when the 24V next to me was running without me knowing. Because common rails ALWAYS have peak pressure (though it is variable), the injection is instantly at that pressure, no ramping up or anything, so that instant injection of fuel would be a very loud knock so they added the preinjection to fix it. The more instantaneously the fuel can be injected and ignited/burned, the more efficient that particular process is. If you have fuel ramping up to peak and ramping back down then part of the fuel is in a crappy region, hopefully the peak injection is in the best timing region and then it ramps back down. That is why common rails inject it instantly and can go up to very high pressures, it is more efficient. We know that 15* ATDC is the best point so if you can get all the power out of the fuel at that point, the better it will be. In this pic you see the pressures and how the CR is very steep and the ppump/vp is gradual. The baseline is injector opening pressure so it's right on the edge of opening at the baseline. Ignore the red lines, that is unit injector and post injection crap (emissions). 1. Pre injection 3. CR Main Injection Start 7. CR Main Injection End 5. Regular injection pump (P7100, VP44) Injection start 6. Regular injection pump injection end.

So let me get this straight...They bought a buncha swat team vehicles so that anyone who protests gun rights will simply be destroyed?Yet everyone in the meeting was against it...soooo who is for it, who bought the damn things?

Yep, same principle. Cept you will never have them both full down unless there is something I don't know but usually the intake valve opens right before the exhaust valve closes, so they are both barely open.

Very interesting. I don't know if I would rely on 2 crappy pumps but it obviously works. I don't know if you would ever see me forking over big money either so it will be interesting to see how this works out for you in the long run. Keep a little 2 stroke in it all and it might keep everything happy, including the pumps. Though I would like to hear an explanation of why the OEM pumps fail, is it lube or what? Maybe someone will chime in. I don't think running compound pumps will hurt anything. Maybe the OEM ones are overworked anyways. Sorry this thread has been dead for 3 days with no reply, usually someone always replies within the day but this thread seemed to be pushed down in the abyss.

Yeah the spec clearly says "It should never get under 25psi under a load (driving)" so yours is definitely having issues.

Yeah, he carries a .45 around just because of them. He had one pee on his truck's tire so now he pulls his gun out and tries to hit them, normally hitting the tire instead which is why he has 2 sets of tires.

Yeah that is crap. Put the gauge in the engine compartment again and get something to clamp off the return line to make sure it's not a bad (i know its new) overflow valve. You don't clamp it fully off, just slowly apply pressure to the line and the fuel pressure should go up. Do that until it gets to at least 35psi. Don't just clamp it as a good lift pump will build indefinite pressure until something breaks.. It will get there even idling so you don't have to rev it up or anything. If you can clamp it completely off, then it's not the OFV, its the lift pump. You might check on the prefilter first (if you hadn't already) as who knows what it might look like. It's simple physics. The lift pump makes pressure and excess pressure is relieved with the OFV. If the OFV has a weak spring then it is not letting pressure build so your fuel pressure stays low. By clamping the return line, you simulate an OFV with a tighter spring to determine whether or not it's the OFV causing the issue. If you can clamp it off then the next thing is the lift pump is a piece of crap.. Got it?

Yeah I saw what some other people did with it. Guys were making entire parts in the first week of school so I guess it's not that hard. Took a week just to learn how to open AutoCad

Yeah for measuring the fuel shutoff solenoid it is much easier to measure the top than try and center it. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/12v_fuel_solenoid.html Their measurement is obviously different...I have secrets

Got it, don't know how to use it yet

It isn't as easy as paintbrush if thats what you mean This is how it is. http://i48.tinypic.com/255o1up.jpg Its hard if you try and wing it I'd say. It's kinda like excel though, everyone knows how to put in =2+2, but when you get into actual functions you don't really know what they are. I went through 200 pages of a 1300 page book to get this far, but I wouldn't say its that hard once you know what all the functions do. Theres 5 ways to do everything on there.

I love it cause it's all to exact dimensions. I changed something the other day and I drew it back in just with dimensions from my calipers and it didn't match up because I started in the middle and the measurements I was getting were different than the last time. There were a lot of spots the calipers wouldn't fit in. Autocad made this blindingly obvious when I got to the end and had a 1/32" gap, but that was really neat that it kinda "makes" you figure out what you didn't measure good enough. I had a couple .01" screwups where the calipers woudn't fit in the groove so I had to hold them above it and guess which was apparently getting me within 0.01". It added up and gave me the 1/32" screwup. Then you click on anything and it will give you the dimension. I have messed with a ton of things on my truck and wished I had drawn every one of them. :banghead:

I started getting a little use out of autocad that might actually be worthy. I sense a few writeups coming on. Maybe. Anyone got a special request? I've just been taking parts off my truck and bringing them up here

Yeah Welcome to the site and hope that fixes the problem or allows you to fix it. Don't be afraid to ask anything or jump into threads that are already going if you have something to say. The more input on issues that seem unresolved, the better.

I think this will get you far. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/39-transmission-systems/80-central-axle-disconnect-cad-system-troubleshooting I never looked much into the ABS issues but probably unrelated, though those lights being on is very common.

Sunblock I get what your saying but you said you would still have lube which is what oil is supposed to do so... But I think you are saying it would be a much crappier lube since all the additives kinda combine to form a good sunblock. I just wonder what would happen without it all. What would happen if I just dumped mineral oil in my truck and put enough filters on it to keep it crystal clear? You would think those frantz oil filters are filtering just as good as a dirty oil filter and would destroy the engine but maybe they don't filter that good and thats why they aren't destroying engines. Then we have dorkweed running the same oil for millenia and his engine isn't destroyed either. So you can see where I have "thoughts" on things

So if you cannot filter too good because it will take the additives out, and you cannot filter too bad because it will do the obvious, then when you filter the additives out, what are you left with? I mean you can run oil through a million filters until it is crystal clear but its not like you are left with nothing. So what is the something you are left with? Just how crappy at lubing is the thing you are left with?

No rules against being helpful

Interesting how when you guys have low fuel pressure you blame it on the pump and 12V guys blame it on the overflow. Clamp off the overflow and you will get your 20psi irregardless of the pump. 400HP only takes 22GPH so even the factory pump could support that. You said its for heat and lube, and we know that, but the FSM doesn't and it only states the 70% generalization. I want something that says "10GPH x RPM = return line flow rate". Because nothing actually says it NEEDS return flow, and THAT is the culprit to this whole thread because anyone can get all the pressure in the world with the right overflow valve. We all know it needs it for cooling and lube, but how much flow does it really need? That 70% could be at idle for all we know.We need solid proof to stomp out this thread. Nobody is going to let it rest until we have a solid answer, why else would it have already come up again.

You told me it was for heat. That says nothing about heat, it's just stating a generalization. I know it needs to cool the pump off but that doesn't say it needs 70% to do it, its just yeah, a statement. Dig up more info relating to the heat. Do you got a pic of this 14psi valve? I can't figure out if there is an internal 14psi overflow in the VP44 AND an overflow valve somewhere else or if there is only the one. I know I know I don't pay attention to the 24V's. Alll the pieces are slowly coming together

So we got Mike's test saying one thing, W&F saying another, and Rick contradicting everything. In any case, it is the flow that needs to be tested.. Mike told me that in the Bosch manual or something that the VP44 needs twice the flow rate recycling through the pump as it pumps in the injectors for cooling purposes. Meaning if the pump is shooting 5GPH to the injectors, then 10GPH needs to be recycling through the pump, so you need a flow rate of 15GPH total. Mike said the stock lift pump is rated at 32GPH? and those engines were rated at 235HP which is 13.9GPH x3 is 41.7GPH. This means the stock lift pump will sacrifice recycle flow in order to feed the injectors, which means the pump will heat up and you know the rest.. With that in mind, it is not the pressure that matters. Rick's overflow valve could be very strong for all I know and keeping the pressure up. It doesn't matter though, what matters is are these scenarios recycling twice the fuel? The ideal test would be to take the ball out of the overflow valve and put the return line in a bucket and bump the starter and time it filling up. Then put the 1/2" lines on it and do the same thing. I have issues with the overflow valve so this would put it out of the equation and purely test line restrictions. The reason we beat this to death is because such a test hasn't been done, or someone isn't sharing their results.

Bring on the tests! I have my own opinions on this matter but 1 good test is worth 1000 expert opinions. I'm sure this topic has been debated for years with little more than pressure differences so the more tests you can do the better. Not trying to stomp on anyones toes but we don't exactly have flow rate proof from the return line so this could be interesting. Make sure to list every variable you know so it can be a good legit test that others can derive ideas from