ISX

The 2007 and above trucks are also the trucks that must use ULSD. Because of that, something other than it like 2 stroke oil is a little weary. The new trucks burn very cleanly and 2 stroke oil, be it meant to be burned or not, will not burn as clean as diesel. This may or may not cause issues in these new trucks. 128 ounces is 1 gallon. If 128 parts of fuel has 1 part 2 stroke (128:1), then 35 gallons would be 35 ounces. Since we don't typically run bone dry, the standard is a quart. A gallon is 4 quarts so 128/4 = 32 ounces. I typically fill up with 32 gallons from E so it is easiest to just measure out a quart and dump it in. A little more or less isn't going to kill it.

Oh. Wheels Like this only on a dodge.

I'd like to see a dyno sheet for a stock 2nd gen and then the same truck with a variable turbo. I mean let's face it, when you step on it, not much happens until the turbo decides to put the cheetos bag down, turn the tv off, and do something. If you had constant boost, or a supercharger for that matter, I think the dyno sheet would be very different and interesting. A few months ago I was pulling our trailer and blew a boot off while trying to get past grandma. It went from running 700F EGT at 70mph, to 1000F at 60mph. The turbo is a huge asset to the engine. As for when the turbo is doing something, I cannot tell any different in power from when it lights at 1500, up until redline. If I need more power, I push harder, simple as that, you don't feel any power shortages anywhere so a dyno and a seat of pants dyno are very different perspectives.

There is a guy around here with a 6 axled dodge. It's just a regular 1 ton that he put a flat bed on and added an axle. He drives by all the time but I never can get my phone/cam out fast enough. I should ask this threads question to him lol.

Link or quote what you found that was confusing it. We will explain it to you

Biodiesel has a very high cetane which is definitely needed for the fastest diesels because there isn't much time for the diesel to burn, high cetane means it lights up faster, it doesn't have time to mess around. Personally, I think biodiesel is fine, but I drive a 12V so I would probably say anything that runs that is filtered really good is fine lol. Especially since it's cheaper!

It isn't the kid that ticks me off, it's everyone else. People in his town have diesels that probably smoke and he wants his to smoke a little as well to be cool. His probably doesn't smoke at all. After typing in cummins smoke he probably read about a smoke switch. He doesn't find anything in typical cumminsforum fashion. He makes a post and gets flamed for it. Unreal. All the posts over there are crap and you have to read 20 threads (all saying to search of course, keeping you at your searching to find the original thread that you were searching for) to get to the one you want. Most of those questions I know the answer to instantly and in the time it takes those guys to flame him, they coulda wrote a logical answer since it is obviouslyyyyyyy an obsolete question. I will never flame anyone for asking a question. ALL of us were that kid at one time or another, and although our desires in our trucks and questions might have been different the scenario was the same. Most of us are lucky to not get flamed but some of us get flamed for BS as well. I find it extreeeeeemely dumb that a forum with 99% of people's trucks smoking to high heaven, shoot down people who ask how to get to the same point.

During the 3 cylinder high idle, energy from the active cylinders is used to overcome the compression stroke on the dead cylinders, correct. That is the design of it, to create a load so that heat is created which is why it kicks in on the coldest days. It is very inefficient, inefficiency creates heat which warms the engine up faster. Oddly enough, the pressure that it builds is released in the opposite manner on the power stroke of the dead cylinder. Since there is no injection and no valves open on the compression or power stroke, that means that the energy used for the compression stroke is given back during the power stroke, much like compressing a spring and then releasing it. If the engine opened the exhaust valve at the end of the compression stroke so that the power would not be returned, then the engine would have a harder time and get hot even faster. In Mike's article http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51:high-idle-mod&catid=26:engine-systems&Itemid=107 he has a table towards the bottom. You can see the different loads and such. With 3 cylinder enabled, it runs around 600F, with it and the exhaust brake enabled, it runs 800F. The exhaust brake makes really does nothing for the dead cylinders though it would make them harder to go up since they are trying to push air out, though they would not have much air pressure in relation to the active cylinders. It is mainly the active cylinders that are straining the engine a lot with the exhaust brake on because all the pressure they created from combustion is trying to get out but since the brake is basically like keeping the exhaust valve closed, the piston has a hard time going up since it is basically compressing an ultra hard spring. Then the exhaust brake relieves pressure at a predetermined point so that the engine doesn't completely fall on it's face. Now this car deactivation stuff opens the valves in the dead cylinders so that those cylinders really don't take much power away. Most of the energy used in turning an engine is used on the compression stroke, the pistons are not very hard to go up and down by them selves. The interesting thing about that and diesels is that diesels don't really have the same problem as gassers. The EPA says they gain 5.5-7.5% efficiency with the deactivation going. That means the trailblazer that GM used it in at first in the new millenium that is rated at 19mpg highway 13 city on a 2wd model, can potentially get 14 to 20.5 mpg. Now mind you this is a 5000lb trailblazer (if that) with a 5.3.... To prove my point, I have a 6500lb truck that has never seen under 21mpg unloaded for the 100k miles I have owned it. Now do you see why diesels don't need it? Question is, WHY do they not need it! There are guys with 4BT's that can only pull off 30mpg in little SUV's. I saw a 6.2L V8 chevy diesel (POS) in a corvette that got 45mpg. All I can figure out is that diesels are very good at using their power efficiently. If a little SUV with a 6BT can only get 5mpg better than me then I think we are at the top end of what these engines can do efficiencywise. I could probably deactivate 2 cylinders and be fine 90% of the time but would the engine actually be more efficient? Is it really using more fuel driving 6 cylinders than it would with 3 or 4? If you have a load (driving down the road) then it is going to take X amount of fuel to have enough energy for the load. Now it is true that X amount of fuel is generally thought of as being split into 3rds. 1/3 of the fuels energy goes out the exhaust (but partially regained with the turbo). 1/3 goes to the radiator, and 1/3 is actually used for power. With fewer cylinders and more fuel to each cylinder, it makes sense that less energy would be soaked up by the cylinder walls since your total surface area is down (only using 4 cylinders with same amount of fuel). This would theoretically gain you some efficiency, (perhaps "5.5-7.5%"). This is also why we have an advantage over powerstrokes and duramaxs since more surface area is there to soak up (and waste) more energy. The combustion process is however thought of as adiabatic, which means the pistons are going so fast that no heat from combustion is soaked up by the cylinder walls. We do still have 2 cylinders less which means we need more fuel per cylinder for the same power as a V8 diesel. Eh there are so many variables and I can't explain them all without explaining why some things seem contradicting.

The problem is that although the VP44 or anything newer can deactivate certain injections, it cannot deactivate valves. Cars that deactivate cylinders to save fuel also open the valves on the dead cylinders, otherwise you would be wasting power on the compression stroke.

In the bed I would say the heaviest thing has been maybe a 6V53 detroit, think those are around 1000-1200lbs. I have had the bed topped to the bed rails with firewood and then a 4 wheeler on top of that and then 4k lbs worth of trailer so maybe 1k tongue weight. I pulled a powerstroke on a bumper pull but it was pretty centered on the axles of that trailer so didn't seem like much tongue weight. So not much really. I've never been big on weighing down the bed, let a trailer take the abuse. My truck used to be a hot shotter and my springs show it. The only reason I have air bags is to get it off the overloads, they are very weak.

I got a ton of information on this now. I'm still getting some information so give me another day.

Tell them you need something betting than bailing wire to feed your internet from their hub

Oh. I didn't see what the site was about from the tiny perspective of my cell phone

Googled this on lunch break, I'll read more of it at home and search more. www.dadacanada.com/idling-facts-and-myths/idling-myths.html I guess we have 3 things now, idling/idling with ebrake/driving. I was trying to find solid evidence that one way was the best but need to Google more when I get home. I know everyone has their own preferences but I want solid proof. I shall not fail! That link does make a good argument about how idling does nothing for all the other components. I used to idle my Ford in neutral so the auto tranny would be getting somewhat warmer.

Not sure what I was supposed to take personal lol. These things are tough, all diesels are, so you are really just meaning the difference between going a million miles and 900k miles lol. But I would like to know what has more effect on them. I idled mine every day before I went to school and the thing ran perfect, started perfect, it would start without the grid heaters at 0F instantly with a tiny puff of smoke just the same as a 100F day. Come college I started it while it was cold, never warming it up, 3 or 4 times a day. During that time it got worse and worse and now will now takes 10 seconds of cranking to start at 15F as attested to by last monday, this was without grid heaters (still havent hooked them up). I guess I said driving off was better in the first post but now I see I am contradicting myself. It is possible that other things could have done it. Hard to say. I might have to start googling and see if I come up with any actual lab tests of this stuff.

My uncle is begging me to go to colorado to go to this diesel school for the biggest dump trucks on earth I guess, letourneaus I think, however thats spelled. He says they have a hard time finding competent people. Anyways, white smoke means unburnt fuel, low compression, crappy injector, I believe it to be a sign on an older engine with lower compression from worn stuff which causes white smoke because it isn't building enough heat so it gives off unburnt fuel until the engine has pumped up enough heat to burn off the fuel. Black smoke is partially burnt fuel. I think this is caused on initial startup because the engine is turning at cranking RPM yet fueling at idle RPM so when it does start, there is some disagreement on fueling amounts until it gets to idle RPM which causes some partially burn fuel. I have yet to figure out why trucks change from black to white smoke. Timing might be a slight issue, though mine smoked at 0* timing somewhat, but less than at stock timing. Pop pressure could be low enough to cause an effect similiar to advanced timing, which advanced timing definitely makes it smoke more. If the valve isn't seating correctly, it could cause it from not allowing proper compression which might heal itself as the engine warms up, but you would hear it hissing most likely. Can't think of much else. Being a 24V it could be anything lol.

It's really kinda hard to say what is the best without a lab to check each battery for the same tests and with each battery the same age. There are so many factors. I used to go to college (across the street, literally) and back 3 or 4 times a day and then drive 2 hours on the weekend. That would do a number on some batteries, though I had 5 in the truck at that time so I don't think it really phased them. Then my ford took 30 seconds to crank (not joking) everyday, that is where the maxx's shined, though all my batteries are different conditions and been in different vehicles so it's just hard to say what's the best. Cajflynn would probably get the most out of his batteries since he drives so much which keeps the batteries topped off, floating them. Same as Mike's house, he has batteries in it for when the power goes out. I doubt the power goes out daily so his batteries have lasted a very long time. I don't think it's using the battery that kills them, its the DEEP use of a battery that does it. My ford gave them deep use every morning lol, but I had a 15 min trip to high school so they charged back up, plus I let it warm up every morning. The grid heaters are another issue. I think it would be safe to say that the city runners in alaska go through batteries left and right from constantly starting and stopping and the grid heaters and never getting charged back up and....... Batteries are pretty forgiving if you think about it but you shouldn't take them for granted, they need a little giving back sometime. Give them a little drive every now and then to get them back up to terminal velocity. Have a great day.

Forgot I was going to add info.

Geez if I knew I coulda had that much business with it and a pop tester I woulda just gone out and bought one and quit my job months ago

It's so NAPA CEO's have to put in some effort to vote for their battery I have nothing against any battery brand.... Best battery I have ever had out of NAPA batteries, optima red tops, wal mart batteries, was the everstart maxxs. I dont mean they were just the best, I mean they were farrrrrrrr from whatever #2 was. They are great. I'm going on 7 years with one and it can still whip my red top optima dry cells and they are brand new and both batteries have the same CA. The red tops just have no endurance. If it is cold out, they crank and crank and then crank slower and slower. The Maxx's will burn the starter up before they give up. Buy a ford and you will find all this out for yourself

There was a post about this and I wanted to really dive into it and see everyones opinions and stuff on the issue. So it is 0F out and you go out to your truck and fire it up. From the way most sound at 0F, you will surely wait 30 seconds before doing anything else. But after that, then what is best to do? Here is my theory. When you start the engine, the first thing to get warm is the piston. It is aluminum and in direct contact with the explosion above it. The next thing would be the exhaust valve though it's composition would resist it. Then I think the rest would be relatively uniform. The thing I see here is that the piston would be hot and therefore expand. The cylinder walls would have 0F coolant rushing past them and being steel they would not be heating up much at all. Therefore, I think this accelerates wear on the rings until the cylinder walls reach operating temperature. While idling, the engine is really not making much heat. I can idle mine for 10 minutes and be lucky to hit 80F from 0F. If I waited for 100F before I left, it would be idling a longgg time. Over the course of this duration, how much wear am I causing?On the other hand, what if I started driving after that 30 seconds, not hard, just putter out of the driveway and slowly get up to 55mph (I live on a highway). This would make it heat up faster, but would the shorter duration make up for the cylinder strokes? After all, it would be turning 1600RPM or something instead of idle speed.. Seems doing this would be more likely to polish the cylinder walls, ridding them of the crosshatch. My EGT's are also very high on a cold engine at 55mph, scratching 600F. A warm engine is barely over 400F. So it is producing more heat but is it worth the wear of whatever it is wearing that is making the engine so hard to turn which makes me give it more fuel and the EGT's show the load. I'll get some interesting calculations up in a bit. I believe driving is better on it, but I am not sure, that's why I am posting this...

Mine used to be black then it turned white. I got a compression tester for xmas that I wasn't expecting but man is it gonna be fun to use. Now that the dodge is sitting it out, I will tear it all apart and see if there is any cause to the white instead of black smoke. Wish I had a pop tester, maybe next year.

I just had to share this as its absolutely unreal. For those that don't have 4 minutes, at least skip every minute to the end lol. Of course, only a dodge could pull this off

I'll get pics someeeday. Finally topped it off after the initial fillup so I have a MPG reading now. 16.96, I thought it would be a lot worse from all the stuff I did to it, guess I said that in my last post. Which means, I will be good to it on this tank and it better show 20. I do like only spending $40 to fill up from the low fuel light I know it's just a mind game but it's still nice lol.

I just made up a spreadsheet to track every single thing I do to it. Every date, every cost, every quantity, even tax amounts. Thus far I have yet to have 1/10 of $0.01 unaccounted for. I have exact things used like what oil I put in, part numbers, everything. Wish I had done it with my dodge but too late now. Not sure I want to know how much I have spent on that thing I did finally get the 3.07 axle I always wanted. Wrong vehicle though lol. I like the gearing a lot, it has a lot higher 1st gear than the cummins so it does take a little finess to get it moving. It also has to be downshifted since it revs so low going up big hills, but I can live with that. It is hardly audible so that makes it a lot nicer than downshifting my cummins (like you ever have to with a cummins). I never liked listening to my truck over 2000RPM. So far I have gone 170 miles on half a tank. I got a build sheet out of Jeep and it says 20 gallon tank so at least I know its getting better than 10mpg. I'll be shocked if it gets better than 15 because I have been uhhh how do I put it, "testing it's limits" the whole time lol. Lots of idling and messing with things. I'll try for 20mpg out of the next tank. Owners manual says the whole contraption weighs 3000lbs so I would think it would be capable of some good mileage pretty easily. Time will tell.