ISX

There is a lot of folklore concerning dynamic timing. The one thing that can never be produced is the actual timing that those things are running. I'm sure somebody knows it but I haven't seen any info on any truck with a computer concerning what the timing actually is. How do we know it isn't going in between 2* and that's it? Maybe it's going between 10*. Nobody knows. One very interesting thing is that the VP44 trucks knock like crazy. When I park next to one that is running, I think my truck is falling apart until I figure out their truck is running. Now when Mike ran that IAT fooler, it quieted the engine down, seemingly retarding timing. Here's where it gets sketchy. I cannot produce the kind of knock that the 24V's produce, no matter how high I set my timing. Why is that? Is it from the higher pop pressure? 12V's have more compression so it would seem they would knock louder. But now lets look at the 6.7's that maximize pop pressure, yet they hardly knock at all. So between a 12V, VP44, and 6.7, the results are scattered and apparently timing cannot be judged by amount of knock. I can advance the timing on my truck and it knocks more, but only when you step on it, idling it sounds the same, not this incredible rattle the vp44's make idling. It seems to me that timing is only part of the equation of the rattle scenario's. I'll throw this out there as well. When my timing was advanced a good bit, it would start at 50F like it started at -10F with stock timing.. It was horrible. I think it was advanced a little much, maybe 18-20*. I lost a ton of low end power, gained a bunch up higher, EGT's didn't seem any different. MPG's weren't any different. That is why I have the hardest time understanding how a chip on a vp44 truck can make it get any more mpg's when I can swing a long ways with timing and never see a difference.

I decided to get rid of every single regular 6 point bolt and put stainless allenheads there instead, maybe regular 12.9 grade allenheads as well, I love allen bolts . Figured out it wouldn't cost me but $50 to do the whole engine. Some bolts have rusted and I want them out of there as well as getting some good antisieze to put on every single bolt. As a side effect, I will be making a list of every single bolt size on the truck. I still have to do some counting and I think the timing cover has 2 different sizes but I couldn't remember which one I needed to pull out that was the other size so I gotta go out and keep playing with it. Here is what I got so far. When you buy these bolts, they will be using the same units as the threads, as in since all of these are metric, the length you need will be in mm as well. If for some reason you need to convert the length to inches, just take mm / 25.4, to convert back to mm, take inches x 25.4. This thing resizes it automatically so if it is too small or I guess it is even a little blurry, here is the original format.

That 1/16" thick styrofoamy POS? I threw it away as it looked to block flow

I have never understood how they can declare independence in one page, yet things like the VCR owners manual are 20 pages long. Apparently words had more meaning back then to get the point across with less of them. I really do think there is stuff hidden like in the national treasure movies If only they would let me dump some lemon juice on the declaration :lmao:Hopefully everyone gets through the night uninjured. I'm not buying a thing this year lol. Got some plans for my truck

I'm not sure about this being a different application but I run synthetic in my dirt bike and when we took the engine apart it was completely spotless, no carbon anywhere.

Thats what mine looked like when I took it out. I cleaned it and did some vacuum line work and had twice the flow out my vents, so much so that I called Mike and asked why he didn't make me do it sooner lol.

I'll throw it in the articles section.

I wish I had some kid helping me. Everyone I know has a set way of doing things that are completely opposite to how I do things so someone who hasn't been broken in to a set way of some guys ways would be awesome. Actually all the kids around here are worthless, always on their phones, texting and listening to you talk like if they don't text back it will be the death of them. There are a few diamonds in the rough though, thank god.

You probably can tell but all I did was pulled that black thing out and drilled 2 tiny holes for a zip tie. They are 1/8" I think so even if I get rid of it for whatever reason, nobody is going to notice holes they have to look up from under the steering column to see, maybe The wires just go straight back and over the gauges, there is a pretty good gap there from the factory so that worked perfect.

I didn't know it was that easy :banghead:I made a video of it for the next guy. Not sure why they were both 900, the thing turns on at 900 and stays on till it drops under 800. Who knows. Thanks a lot for teaching me how to use that thing! Where did you put yours?

There is a guy talking to me about 12V's but he can't find any and is heading the 24V route instead since they are plentiful and I am not 100% on some things. He is getting it from a 70 year old with low mileage who just replaced the VP44, so I told him that would be the best one. Aside from needing a fuel pressure gauge, better lift pump, use 2 stroke, what else is there? Plus I can't get into enough details about what I just said. He wants to know how long he can run without a gauge and I said however long you want to be second guessing the lift pump. He also wants to know about what to do when the lift pump does go bad. Assuming he has a fuel pressure gauge by then, what exactly do you do? Turn it off instantly and get a new pump? Do they just die or do they peter out over time? If someone could write up a big guide over all of the things I listed plus other things I don't know about, that would be perfect. I have a guide in the 12V section but there isn't one over here so I'm coming up short.

I would hate to have to do a driveshaft for the first time again. I beat the crap out of it to get it off. Think it was rusted on. Dodge one seems to just fall off so maybe he will have fun lol. Eh, unless it falls on him, had that happen too My truck hates me. Oh and I'd donate $50 to the truck fund

With 1,243 members and a new truck costing hmm, we'll say $45,000, thats only $36.20 a member.. CF has 157,870 members, which would be $0.29 a member I wonder if we can take the donation off our taxes

He knows you will have to do something with your current truck... That is strategy in the making. How old is he?

You can pretty well do anything with that relay. I was thinking of hooking up water injection to it. With mine where it is under the top of the dash in the instrument panel, that blue light that comes on is pretty obvious so I would never need a buzzer haha. I do need to figure out how to change the limit to 1100. I actually have a hard time getting to 900 with how I drive but I still don't want to see that light that early. My other gauge was way off under maybe 400F. I always wondered why I could idle all day and never get down to 300, thought it was a 12V thing, then I get this gauge and I get down under 300F just as fast as the 24v's. Crappy gauges can cost a lot of idle time money...

That gauge is just cadillac! I will never go back. I thought maybe it would have refresh rate issues or maybe be inaccurate or something but the refresh rate seems to be twice per second which is plenty fast from all that I have used it and the accuracy can be checked every morning when the gauge reads the same as ambient. There is a relay on it that I want to figure out a use for, you might have noticed a blue light turn on at 900F (default setting), well that is a relay kicking on as well and you can set that thing for any temp you want. One of the buttons is also a max EGT recall, and you can reset it by holding down one of the buttons (not sure which of the 2 buttons do this, one dims/brightens it). Only issue I have had with it is in 20F or lower temps it will work for a mile but then start freaking out, like it goes to 9999 then all over the place. It just needs a tiny bit of heat, once your vents start blowing air warmer than 20F, it will work again. Not really an issue since I don't think you're going to be running over 1200F EGT on a truck that is still below 20F.

I just did a test today and found something interesting. On the way to work I hit a flat section and looked at all the gauges, then on the way back I hit the same section and looked at all the gauges again. Both were at 55mph, the only difference was ambient temp. Morning Run [*]EGT: 435F +/- 5 [*]Ambient Temp: 77F [*]Humidity: 60% [*]Boost: ~2-3psi [*]Speed: 55mph [*]RPM:1611 Afternoon Run [*]EGT: 435F +/- 5 [*]Ambient Temp: 94F [*]Humidity: 60% [*]Boost: ~2-3psi [*]Speed: 55mph [*]RPM: 1611 As you can see, ambient temp seems to have no effect. From AH64's info, I notice he is finding the same thing out. If I look at my records from winter, I notice I have exactly the same reading on EGT's, among everything else. What is interesting is how Mike notices a 200F hike in the summer, yet I don't see anything change which is with a digital EGT gauge so I can see every single degree. Have to do some research on this.

Do you know the ambient temp?

The stock lift pump is supposed to put out 17-23psi at idle and should never drop below 25psi when the engine is under a load (driving). Ideally yes they should be over 30, mine runs around 45. I heard 50 is the most you should ever run since above that, you may start blowing o-rings out.

720 miles. I'm not sure if you can have any, the guy comes and mows it for his cows. If you really wanted some I might be able to work something out.

You guys wouldn't believe I took this with my cell phone http://i53.tinypic.com/311uyxx.jpg Heres the slimmed down moparsized image.

That reminds me of a few years back when we had a drought and hay was expensive as all get out. Didn't get many bales at all off all that land. We got tons of hay right now though Come get some

I know a lot of people are still lost with this so I made it as foolproof as possible.

We are getting rain too, look at how it came in! Talk about organization Of course it had to do it when I was making a valve lash tutorial video :banghead: think I got it all though.

Yesterday I heard some jets going by and I looked up and there was a 747 with 2 fighters alongside it. I don't know if this was just some exercise as I saw a smaller jet but bigger than a fighter, with 2 more fighters running around it a little more loosely, that were a few minutes behind what I thought was AF1. Do you guys think that was really AF1? It was yesterday and was heading back towards DC I suppose around 7PM.