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Heres how to take it apart. Remember, penetrating oil is your friend..

What does it do with the chip off then? Or is level 1 stock?

Not sure on the copper grease, I am not the anti seize expert Found the torque specs http://www.holset.co.uk/partsservice/service/HX_Service_Data_Sheet.pdf This is the service manual for the HX35 /downloads.php?do=file&id=10">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=10 Turbo shaft nut is 133 in. lb. if you got the 6 point nut and 124 in. lb if you got the 12 point nut. The 4 bolts that hold the exhaust housing to the rest of the turbo (where those half moon things are) are 230 in. lb. The wastegate cover bolts are 220 in. lb.

Yeah I got the V-band. IIRC, it had a little adapter pipe that converted to the flange but I took it off.

I think the 94-97 powerstrokes were nonwastegated. Basically, the turbo is too big to overspool with factory fueling, so they don't need a wastegate. Of course they don't spool worth a damn either. For example, I put a series 60 detroit turbo on mine (Garrett GTA42) and if I floored it, it would light after the EGT got to about 1300, then it would get to a whopping 15psi.. Therefore, I would need no wastegate for it.

I will have to make a movie of taking it apart as well. I don't hear much as far as tips/tricks for turbos so I am wondering if anyone has any input on it. Things I did wrong, could do different, etc.. It's 20 min long though (I didn't edit it) and I don't plan on watching it I started the upload this morning and just went to work, so now I will just post it up for anyone who wants to see. I would like to get better shots of some things as well. There is also one thing about that PITA snap ring for the compressor housing that I learned a trick to. I will just have to video tape that as well. So for now, here is what I got:

Didn't you say on another thread there was some sort of boost elbow on that 24V? 1-2* timing difference will change the WOT boost you see but to the point of only 1-3psi. The 24V head has more flow but not to the point of creating over 10psi more boost with the same ppump that produced 33psi in the 12v. I have seen the CFM values and there is nothing to go overly nuts about. Even if it did have the flow, it still needs fuel to create the heat/expansion needed for flow, and there would be a hell of a lot more flow for that much more boost, which means a hell of a lot more fuel. I am betting that elbow is a boost elbow, or the wastegate on that 24V is not functioning right. I hit 33psi with the wastegate open, but I hit over 45 as well with it blocked. You can take an air compressor and stick in the wastegate line and see when the wastegate opens, or if it opens. Look at that boost elbow thing and see if there is a tiny hole in it or something, or tell me if you even have a boost elbow.

Gassernomore, I can see you just copied it from an email, that won't work since we all don't have access to your email account Right click the picture, hit save picture as, then save it somewhere on the computer. Now come back here and hit the attachment paperclip and upload it to your post and then it should work. Otherwise email it to me (email is in sig) and I will post it

All easy stuff. Bleeding is just filling the reservoir, pumping the brakes and relieving the pressure out of the bleeders on the brakes. It is a hell of a deal. I would jump on it. Just make sure and change everything out (all the fluids) if it has been used as a farm truck, who knows how long they have been in there.

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm

Try downloading it now.

Mine started doing that a week ago. It just pretty well died. I took the module on the steering wheel apart and kicked it, did the same with the vacuum module, somehow everything works perfect now. Still has the accelerating issue sometimes. Not sure what was going on with it turning off like that.

A brand new filter and a clogged filter are not going to be the exact same pressure. It will bypass and everything, but if you watch the gauge closely, you can tell. I'm not saying a 50psi difference, but there will be a difference.

I think there is a very important factor everyone is overlooking, and that is service factor. I drive 45mph down the highway every day and hardly load the engine, it therefore sees no real work so there is no real friction between components and therefore not as much wear. As load increases, so does friction and wear, that wear ends up in the oil. Now there is also the start/stop frequency. When you start it, the engine is inefficient at first and probably dilutes the oil with fuel. Not only that, starting is when you get the most wear on the engine, which again, ends up in the oil. Driving technique also effects it. City driving causes more wear from all the revving you have to do and the combustion temps drop at stoplights, sometimes to the point of incomplete combustion. Now from what I know, Caj pulls the loads at 55mph and doesn't do a lot of city driving, starting, etc. He has the load factor but all the other factors don't really apply to him so I can see 10k as a good changing point. The people starting and driving 5 miles to work and other places are the ones who need to change more frequently. There is a huge difference between 500 miles in a day and 500 miles in 100 days. There is a point where the engine becomes efficient and wears less, and having to hit that point daily (which I doubt 5 miles will ever hit that point (operating temp point)) will increase wear and decrease oil life. Now the other thing which has been talked about is filtering. You can't expect oil to be worth anything if you are only straining it through a sock, it must have good filtration. The better the filtering the longer it will last. In Dorkweed's case, he believes oil does not get "old", it just gets dirty. He has a frantz TP filter and changes it often and has ran the same oil change for 80,000 miles. By changing the filter often, he is able to keep the filter from becoming plugged. I know some people cringe when they think of that but it was just an example showing proof that cleanliness is key. His truck still starts and runs fine and gets good mileage pulling trailers. When you use a crappy oil filter, the oil quickly becomes full of abrasives that pass through the filter, you can change it at 3k but the other oil will be full of abrasives just as quick. You do not change the oil ant 3k because it is bad, you change it because the filter has filtered to the point of being clogged. However, this is a bunch of crap. If you have a crappy oil filter that lets a lot of stuff through, the big particles will accumulate eventually and start to plug up the filter, but this is a good thing. Now your crappy oil filter is plugged up to the point that it can now catch the small particles that it had been passing through. The problem is knowing when it is completely plugged with big and small particles. Your oil pressure would indicate this as being a huge restriction (though our trucks oil pressure gauges don't exactly gauge, they just turn on and off, use a scan gauge for a real number). For most people, I think 7,500-10k is a good point to use. If you are starting it every day, driving 80mph pulling 40k, change it at 3k. The part about cooling is what I want to hit on as it is another factor. I am sure everyone knows what coking is, if not I will attach a pic on here to show it. When the oil gets hot because of high load conditions, it can get too hot and break the oil down, burning out critical detergents. This happens in the turbo bearings when you are running high boost and high EGT's. Not too much of an issue, but something to think about.

It's just a fancy VE Yes you just leave it running, have someone in there tell you when it gets to where you want while you play with the screw. Or you can just mess with it, start it and see.. It's just a screw just like the VE, it's the same principle. You set it the same way. The pump is different in how it works but as far as the idle screw and you are concerned, they are the same.

Yes, the friction of a cold engine drags the idle way down, to the point of stalling. Just step on the pedal slightly and hold it at 800 or so for a little bit. You can also just drive it, get it up to operating temp and see what it idles at, I would set it between the 1000 mark and the mark below it, right in the middle. Supposedly that mark below the 1000 mark is 620. Mine will not run if I don't step on the pedal because my idle is set at maybe 600. Just make sure you set it with the engine warm. If it is set between those lines then cold idle should drop to that line, maybe a little lower but should still be able to run.

I have noticed once the engine is at operating temp, it has a better chance of staying there. I am wondering if it has to do with the temp of the block. I think it takes a long time for the whole block to heat up, but once it does, it retains the heat. Little jaunts might get the block to 160, so when you stop, the temp drops to 160 since the engine is no longer feeding it any heat from engine load. I noticed if I leave the heater off and let it get to 210, then turn the heater on, it will only drop to 190 then stay there. However, if the engine barely made it to operating temp (as in the block probably didn't make it at all) it will drop in temp when I stop moving.

At idle the engine produces almost no heat, this is because there is no throttling on the intake, it can suck in as much air as it wants all the time. This creates an ultra-lean situation when idling since there is hardly any fuel going in but plenty of air going in. When running like that, the engine cools down. It does create some heat though. If your heater is on, the temp will drop. If you take your fan off and leave your heater off, it will overheat. Now if the engine has not reached 190 when you get to the station, heater is off (engine fan still on), it will cool way off when the thermostat does open. After it cools off, it will hardly get any hotter until you start driving again, it takes a lot of heat to raise the temp, maintaining it is simple. So if your heater is on and the radiator is still really cold (tstat hasn't opened yet) and the tstat opens during idle, it will drop the engine down to 140-160 and the heater core will be taking away any heat that the engine can produce. I don't run a fan on my engine and at idle, I can turn my heater on full blast and watch the temp drop, otherwise it overheats.

Got 8-10" dumped on us, figured I would show you 4wd guys how it's done :lol:One thing to note for the 24V/12V debate, when I backed up it died when I let off. It was revved up a little and it decelerates so fast that it can't catch itself. This was only because the engine was 13F and my idle is already set really low, if it caught it still would have been idling at only 500. That was actually the first time I have had it die on me, usually I catch it before it drops too far. But I still like being able to lug it like that.

You guys can't just use a special adapter and USB cord and hook it up to the internet or something?

I spent an hour talking to Mike about that yesterday His will not show anything on GPH until the coolant temp is over 123F (turns on ECT fooler). Then it shows 0.11GPH or so. But it is still flawed. For some reason the idle GPH is just not accurate at all. For instance, I went out and tested mine yesterday by sticking the return and supply lines into a fancy thing with very tedious measurements on it. The truck was probably around 80F and idles at about 620RPM. It burned 0.666GPH at that temp/rpm. I don't see a 24V burning 6X less fuel to go an even faster 750RPM.

Lube it up with gun oil or anything light. Clean the orange seals real good. Bout all you can do.

The XLR is built in the same plant as the corvette on the same frame and everything. I've got behind a few of them, they are wicked. Oddly enough, it doesn't have a corvette engine. The CTS-V (what John is linking everyone to) is what has the vette engine.

Well yeah it helps to have a 5K pot.. Your trying to hit mars with a paper airplane with a 50K one. Even so, it may allow you to figure out the IAT relationship with the engine if you can vary it while driving and watch all the stuff on the scan gauge. It just drives me nuts that the stuff we really need to know (TIMING!) is not known.