ISX

I was outside earlier and pulling that connector does turn it off. I had A/C on and everything and hooking the switch up made it come right back on. A lot simpler and cheaper than a new belt

I'm not much on the A/C system but I *think* if you unplug that connector on the top of the accumulator it will keep it off. This thing. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/AC/IMG_1470.JPG

That was one of my threads about taking my fan off. The heater core on full blast is all that is needed to keep the engine at 190 when idling (without the fan on the engine).

The theory is that the Intake Air Temp is so cold that the mileage drops because of it. The air coming into the combustion chamber is just too good to promote good combustion. So you block off the intercooler somewhat to get the temp back up and regain some mileage. Your EGT's shouldn't be high in the winter anyways, so putting the grill cover on just gets you closer to what you might see in the summer. I am not running any kind of winter front and am going to do so all winter and see what happens. So far, I haven't seen any difference. I was running 490F on EGT's at 70 on level ground the other day if that tells you how cold it makes them, you probably know that. As for mileage, I haven't seen any effect.

Not sure why it is running that much. Mine doesn't turn on at all unless it is on defrost. I had it on recirculate today and the temp gauge went over 160F coming out of the center vent, my temp thing goes blank after 160 lol. I did get a pic of it before it blanked out. I could barely grab the steering wheel because the vent was blowing on it, scorching my hand.

Here is back when my timing was really advanced. If you are seeing that much smoke, something is wrong The little haze after the cloud subsides is about all you should be seeing.

Engine is cold so the fuel isn't burning very good since combustion temps are so cold. Gets worse as the engine wears since compression is what heats it up, so as you lose compression, you lose that initial heat. But I have 330k and it still clears up after a few minutes.

Is your volt gauge still swaying? If the grid isn't doing it's thing it might smoke a little more than usual. Otherwise I don't think I would worry about a little smoke. When it doesn't clear up after a minute is when I would be concerned.

That is very plausible too! I took an injector apart and it was screwed up when I put it together and it ran fine but missed if I gave it any throttle, didn't think of it not smoking at all though.

Seems like air to me seeing as how it starts and just sits there sputtering. On the coldest of days mine might cough once while starting but then it idles perfectly smooth and no trouble. If you let the fuel filter drain then it let air in. You could try taking the injectors apart and cleaning them if you suspect one has stuff in it. You can also crack each injector line and make sure each one misses as you do it. Make sure the fuel filter gasket is on there good and make sure the old one came off, otherwise you will just be smashing 2 together and it will leak at the seam of them.

A 16ft bumper pull with 15 inch tires rated for 30,000lbs? Are you sure about that?

An impact of making your mileage go back up... I never see an impact from 0-100F, always runs the same always gets the same mileage, all on the same timing. I really want to see the results of this

I wonder what would happen if you put a 100F fooler on that IAT... This instant bam thing has me wondering. Obviously mine runs all year on the same settings so it's not like you fooling it into 100F would be any different, I just wonder what effect it would have.

That might all be true, but I wouldn't think it will drop the mileage to the point of what Mike see's, thats like 8mpg less than what he gets in the summer. I don't see how sensors would screw it so badly to cause 8 mpg loss, its mindboggling. If it took that much fuel to get the same power then it should be pouring black/white smoke the whole time because it would be running so inefficiently. I just don't get where it is using it all.

It was 20F here yesterday too and I usually get 100F over ambient out of the vent next to the radio (so 120F yesterday). That is on just regular, if I put it on recirculate it will get up around 150-160F. I aim to get it so hot that I take my shirt off, figure if it is going to be an arctic day outside it is going to be a desert day inside!

This is what you should be at. The orange is RPM the top row shows the gear your in, then the ratio, then the MPH.. This is with 265/75/16's. Here is what it should run with 3.55's Here is what it should run with 4.10's

Amsoil made my 4th gear grind like crazy. Redline is slowly fixing amsoils mess. Winter driving is night and day difference. I have never ran redline before but they have me convinced now. I couldn't tell a difference between today and a day in the summer whereas amsoil and syntorq both like to make it shift crappy in the cold. There is no way amsoil is ever going back in, if you guys heard it, it sounded like grinding a piece of steel from 1000-1500 rpm. Redline has made it quieter and quieter since I put it in and thats after only 500 miles.

I forgot about that. Today it was 20F and the redline I put in the nv4500 shifted incredibly. Amsoil was crap and the dealer stuff was kinda crap but this redline stuff is awesome

Vacuum actually has nothing to do with the transfer case itself. The vacuum switch goes to the top and something in the transfer case just pushes on the bottom of the switch like a push button which switches vacuum from the red to the black vacuum line or vice versa. It sounds like you have something going on inside the transfer case itself.

I got to thinking and when you put it in 4wd it is not always lined up with the splines, so when you drive the splines line up after the wheel barely turns and then it drops in and maybe that is what you are hearing. The one I messed with wasn't audible though.

I was wrong on that cover thing. I had to look it up, I got a 2wd and was going by memory of the 4wd I did. You will just have to take the whole thing off and let it hang there and hook the lines up and go from 2 to 4 and see if the vacuum actuator works. There is a pic of the "cover" haha, you see why it won't work like I originally thought. You mean the compression clamps? Most of the vacuum lines I see don't have any clamps at all on them, the plastic lines just have a little rib on them to hold the line on.

I coulda sworn I wrote an article on this. Hmm, I will make one for Mike for future people :smart:Yes the thing on the end is to help it keep everything out. You can just take the actuator off and see if it goes all the way in and out with vacuum on either line.

Thats the vent for the vacuum. It has a hose so it won't get plugged with mud (if it were just vented on the side of the transfer case it would be plugged in no time). It is supposed to run up to around the back of the engine somewhere and just hangs there. I assume you know the black/red are for CAD engagement and the white or grey is vacuum supply. --- Update to the previous post... Here we go. The curved lines are actual vacuum lines and the actual colors of them.

Use a less stubby wrench.. Or you could put a gearwrench on the nut before you put the line on and tighten it up, then just leave the wrench hanging on the line for next time

There's my stab at it.