ISX

I understand about the money deal and the whole depth of changing out turbos. I just kind of see it as being something that will keep haunting you because of the 9cm restriction. You will get the lower EGT's from the water injection but you will get more power from a bigger turbo because it will be able to breath out the exhaust for once. The HY35 is only on the autos in 2001 (maybe 2000 also) and most people get rid of them for the HX35. The spool up is not really that much of an issue. John's truck spools up quicker than mine but it's not like mine spools up at 2500, it spools up around 1600. I have boost lower than that but if I were to floor it, it wouldn't light up until 1600. You and John are in it for the towing though so why worry about spooling when it really isn't that drastic between the HX and HY. You are spooling for a short time but the 1150F hill you go up lasts a long time.. I think water injection is nice and may solve the EGT issue, but the HX would also fix it as everyone else here doesn't have the EGT issues that you and John have, which obviously has to stem from that HY. Along with lowering the EGT, the engine will now be able to breath, it will have more power and run more efficiently, possibly even gaining a mpg. The HY was put on there for emissions. When I floor it I get smoke at low RPM's, but that wouldn't be possible if I had adequate boost, hence the reason they put on the HY. The HY chokes out around 29-30psi which is obvious on Johns truck where it stops there like a rock, the HX will happily go to 35, which will give you more power and lower EGT's. Either way is a good route, but I think getting rid of the bottleneck has more benefits.

I am not sure but this water thing, to me, just seems like a way of blindfolding the turbo issue. It might run cooler but you still have a 9cm housing. Maybe I am wrong but it sure seems like it is just covering up that issue. Personally I would get the HX35 and if you still need it, get the water.

Where do I begin I think I will just list why it didn't beat me [*]You brung a coat to a 40F outing [*]You had a horse pushing you up the hill from what it sounds like [*]Turning the camera on must have wore you out since you were already out of breath [*]I didn't see anyone work [*]It took 6 minutes to walk up and down a hill [*]you were done at noon but I am pretty sure you didnt start til 11:00 which means you didn't get there till 11:30 and if you subtract everything else I think you did 10 min of work [*]I think you just burned out with the 4 wheeler in those spots that "you" dug out Since I said you didn't work I got my video uploading showing "work" Taking forever, might be tomorrow before it's done. Tomorrow it will be 30 and I will show you how to get 100 year old fence posts out by hand

I think most people just get windshield wiper fluid. Not sure if that has methanol in it or not, never looked into it.The water is injected through an injector that you can put basically anywhere, like before the turbo shooting into the compressor, in the intake horn.. It is a VERY fine mist like an aerosol can that goes into the engine with the intake air, much like gas on carborated gassers. It is NOT in the fuel system in any way shape or form (seemed like you were thinking that with the stock injector comment). Hopefully that clears some things up for you.

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/

I guess 1, 2, and 3 can all be swapped around, but do not add more fuel until you have checked off the other 3. If you do without gauges, you have no idea how hot it is, if you do without a built trans, it could just go out on you anytime, if you do without more air, it will not be flowing good enough for what it needs to be to have more power efficiently.

p-pump? Can you do us a favor and list what year and specs of truck you got.. Right now you posted in the VP44 section. If you are going to mod it, this is how you should do it, in this order. 1, 2, and 3 can be swapped 4 always has to be last. [*]Monitoring Devices (EGT, Boost, etc.) [*]More Flow/Air (BHAF, Straight Pipe) [*]Build Up the Powertrain (Better Clutch/Built Auto) [*]Add Fuel (Programmers,chips, etc. or pump work on the P7100 trucks) Explaining.. [*]Gauges will keep you from running it too hot and melting pistons, or running too much boost and blowing head gaskets, they enable you to keep an eye on the trucks workload and allow you to stay within it's limits. [*]More air allows the engine to breath easier and lower the EGT's and run more efficiently. [*]The stock clutch/automatic trans will not hold up to much more than stock power levels. You should upgrade to safely handle the added power. [*]More fuel means more power, this is the final step because fuel is good as well as bad, it adds heat and can destroy, that is why you do the other steps first to keep the fueling from becoming excessive. Chips have limits on them that can be set but EGT/boost gauges can be your own limit since you let off if something gets too high.

On the email thing, did you set that after you made this thread? I noticed it has to be set then make a thread. I set it once then didn't want any more email so canceled it but I still get emails if someone replies to the threads I had being emailed to me during the time I had it enabled.

I wouldn't imagine you would need RTV on the gasket or bolts as long as the cover and case mating surfaces were nice and clean. I would use loctite on the bolts. The only problem with the timing cover is that it is so thin that it warps a little around the bolt holes and that is why RTV helps fill in the warpage since a gasket is all one thickness. Sooo, I'm going to say leave it be on the gasket. I would consider loctite on all the bolts though, they loosen up very quickly because of the engine rattle. Here is how I did mine. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/kdp/kdp.htm

I'm thinking there is no easy way to upgrade a 3rd gen air filter without spending a fair amount of money. 2nd gen's can swap in BHAF for $20-30. I would say because of the price factor, most guys just leave the filtering stock on the 3rd gens.

Yes I have never seen a work description of "doing trail". Do you just cut the weeds down? I would just hook a push mower in front of the 4 wheeler.

Well my expedition sucked. Was too warm out. Your like my dad, he sweats just getting out of bed. I only sweat if I am reallly working hard, which I didn't get close to that point cutting all the wood. Maybe I will try tomorrow when it's 31. The video of me cutting the wood is really boring so I'll just show the last part. Sister is having a bonfire tonight so thats all we need the wood for. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=57YwCwIPtQY

Always an excuse. Well I have to go cut firewood in this crap, so I will go do it shirtless and labor intensive and show you "tougher in Missouri" --- Update to the previous post... Damnitttttttt! Now its 39F feels like 31! :banghead:

Come here if you want it to be cold then. This is what it says for right now. You can see it feels like 32 because of all the damn wind. And from what I can tell, your not hitting under 36 all week, so don't give me any crap about "Idaho is hard living in the winter"

Yes you stick this in it and use a 3/8" ratchet to crank the engine. Kinda sucks because it takes forever just to do one revolution, though its effortless. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TOOL_3824591

Here's some pics of the thing I mean. You might be able to take that little plate with 2 bolts off and do something with that also.

There is a plug on the front of the bell housing on the passenger side that you stick the barring tool into, maybe you can stick something in there. I wrote a whole article on all of this but it is still in the processing phase or something

Just blow them out, don't need antifreeze if there is no water to freeze.

I think theres a few auto guys around here that can help you. I have never seen an auto 12V personally. My book shows the TPS as being right on the side of the injection pump, the front portion of it. You will see a bunch of cables and springs.. Not sure on the potentiometer, sounds like it would work but know nothing about how it works on these trucks. Ask all the questions you want, we encourage it here. The dumb questions are the ones you already know the answers to, which neither of us did so they must not be dumb

The only part I don't understand is why you heat the guest house. Who is in there that needs heat?

Yeah the HX40 is bigger, they use it on the 8.3 cummins. I am not sure how good it spools down low, the HX35 seems to have a really good map as far as I can tell with it on my truck. You can get them really cheap too.

To be sure that thing is on, look at it and the clutch should be spinning on it. Did you ever refill it or anything? It worked for a few days here so how long did it go before it stopped working?

You should be able to see green crap around the compressor if it is leaking since I cleaned it really good. Try looking at that first.

We can't use 520 because it wasn't part of the test. I am trying to get this thing working based on what they used for the test, after I get it to work, then I can put in 520. The formula is supposed to be exponential from what I can tell but I don't know how to make that work. The fact that the bottom ones are all messed up makes me think all the rest of the calculated values are messed up.

I was going to make a graph of the 2 stroke HFRR at different ratios. From this http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm I know that 2 stroke at 200:1 is HFRR 474 and regular #2 is 636. So I can do some generalizing and figure out a formula by using the 162 difference between the two HFRR's, I can say that 400:1 would have an HFRR with a difference of half that, so 162/2=81, 636-81=555. Now that you know how I have it calculating, I will show you the stats and you can see the issue I run into at the bottom.