wil440

The piece you see is the dust seal part of the seal, the actual lip is further in, I got one for my 3500 maybe 8 years ago but never did it, came across the seal the other day Got mine from Rockauto Easy enough to change, me I'd park nose downhill if possible as we've just had our yard asphalted and wouldn't want even a spot of oil on it pull the propshaft, the transfer case end is a slip joint, hook the seal out either with a screwdriver carefully between it and the case or if there is a lip tap it backwards and carefully refit the new one, Ideally using a piece of pipe or a socket to drive the new one in, I save all kinds of things just for driving seals, oh and if the new one doesn't have dried sealant or plastic on the outer edge where it would seal to the case just wipe a small amount around it before you fit the seal. Thing is when you pull the shaft out just inspect it where the seal lip is running, you may well find a wear groove, it is a slip shaft, seals are cheap so reseal it first see if it stops

One thing I will say is. I've read the tuning guide and other threads several times and there wasn't a lot of it that actually went in made a little worse by slight terminology changes and also listing parameters not in the quad order so a particular changeable parameter with a slightly different name and talked about not in the order on the quad screen if that makes sense, I just didn't have the time to figure it. Yesterday, no one around, watched the video, once without my screen then again with my screen and now a lot clearer, don't know why I didn't watch the vid months ago

You'd have been very lucky to find 2 sensors from 2 different manufacturers used on 2 different items to output the same reading unless they were exactly the same part made by the same company with the same part number

I read the tuning guide and watched the vid this morning, needless to say I now have a "test" tune to see what it runs like against my tow tune which is what my truck is always on. I've dropped the fuelling down and also the timing down a little, I figure start lower than where I am on the tow tune then go from that, haven't tried it yet though First time I've messed with it, we'll see tomorrow

Sorry the wastegate cleaning didn't totally sort out your problem but that WG was leaking and did need fixing, this is how diagnosis should be done.. see what you see, fix it, test It does now sound like the truck is defuelling what boost was you seeing before this ?? I would remove the boost elbow and test it as it was, boost elbow all the way in might be too much ?? I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the BE just test as was, then wire the waste gate actuator shut so it cannot open and test again, this tests the actuator

Yes that is sort of useful, I find the gear indicator is sometimes slow to read the correct gear, or my eyes are too slow to read the display as going from 4th (OD) and then into LU my truck is accelerating rather rapidly for our normal roads (read little roads) so testing with the quad turned down will have to wait until I'm on a decent stretch of road I need to read and get into tuning with the quad more and figuring out what I'm going to do with the truck/trans etc

John My truck goes from 3rd unlocked to 4th which is OD and then convertor lockup, don't think I've ever felt it go to 3rd LU then unlock and go into OD then back to LU, there must be a scenario where that would happen but I've never felt it It comes out of LU when I turn OD off then once in 3rd it LU again, so never felt it going up put does coming down I just took my dog to the vet and did put the quad on lvl 6 but it didn't go into OD at all due to road speeds and traffic, I'll try again tomorrow

My truck on longer journeys usually has my trailer hooked up and I lock out OD, everything has been fine also I tend to lockout OD around here also as it means the convertor is locked for much longer so revs down and MPG up, it can trundle along just over our lowest built up area speed limit of 30 just nice, pretty flat here. Yesterday I went to fit a turbo boost sensor on a Volvo loading shovel, already visited to diagnose and was 100% sure so no need for my trailer just the part and a 8mm ratchet spanner and a small screwdriver Noticed the change from 3rd to 4th was harsh and not what it usually is bearing in mind It may not have done that upshift for a bit, last time I recall was towing on the motorway downhill so throttle backed off anyway, I turn on OD in this situation then off as soon as the downhill is done when towing. Checked for codes this morning and there was only battery voltage low, this was from when my alternator resettable breaker popped the other week while jump starting a Peugeot Boxer, I did disconnect the quad before the jumpstart,. I cleared the low volt code and ran the truck, no active or stored codes in Engine ECU ,PCM , ABS or Body.... nothing and this is with a SO Modis at 2018 software so there is no codes. The truck runs and shifts ok other than hard into OD, trans temps yesterday at 50 miles round trip was around 120f give or take My next thing is to turn the quad down from 9 to 6 and see what that does, this could well be the cause thinking about it Other than that I may have to drop the pan any other suggestions ????

Here's what I do always use battery terminals with bolts to tighten the terminal onto the post, then use what you call lugs, I tin the cable end with solder, crimp on the lug with a 2ft set of cable crimps then heat the whole lot to solder the lug to the cable then heat shrink tubing ( which I've already slid onto the cable BTW)

Sorry I have no idea as my turbo is stock, I don't have egt problems and I don't need more power so unless it dies it's staying just as it is Right now if I was trying to diagnose your problem I would refit the turbo as is just with the wastegate face cleaned nice this will test if the WG was the problem and once you have found the problem you can then decide on mods, also if you are reusing gaskets it's really should come off again to fit new and if you expect them to leak and they don't win win

That's exactly what I would do, inspect it, make sure the bearings are ok to run and the vanes aren't touching the housings and sort the wastegate faces out, right now I wouldn't worry about oil residue as unless the shaft wasn't turning the small amount of residue isn't going to cause your boost problems, I have seen many turbo's seized but mostly the result is a lot worse than low boost. By cleaning and facing the wastegate area and refitting you test YOUR parts to find the cause of your fault without spending any money, I would even reuse the steel shim gaskets right now and just use some high temp sealant or copperslip just to test, don't forget you have already done the hard work removing it, it will jump off if you remove it again to either replace or fit new gaskets especially if you copperslip mounting nuts/studs. Get it bolted on fit the oil drain but leave off the intake tube and just before you are ready to start pour a little engine oil down the oil supply on the turbo then fit the line, turn the shaft with fingers then start it, I would leave the intake off just make sure NOTHING can get airborne move everything, all tools, rags etc away and while idling just inspect the intake. Once happy refit intake tube and test properly, depending on how well you clean the wastegate you may still see reduced boost but higher than now or back to all ok. As for rebuilding turbo's in my job here in the UK it just isn't done, take a Cat 777 engine, twin turbo and like dinner plates, replacement engine £50k or more, yes they are service ex but whoever rebuilds is insured to the hilt and my guess is it's only the housings that are reused, it only needs a vane to crack and they do, I've worked on Cat 775 dumptrucks for over 30 years on and off and if R and M is done correctly turbos, water pumps, fan drives are replaced at around 12k hrs I'm not saying I wouldn't rebuild my truck's turbo I'm saying I have never rebuilt a turbo, I can see if someone has an aftermarket bigger better turbo yes you would rebuild

I'm a bit late to these pictures but the first picture is your problem as has been said and he's how it happened Your wastegate has had carbon build up over time but still sealing in a fashion, wastegate probably not opening very often, and your 18 to 20 psi not very often You then fit a boost elbow, your OVER 22psi event dislodged some of the carbon on the WG seat, now it won't seat at all. I have a boost valve and it pops on a hard throttle shutoff and there is some CFM of exhaust gasses passing through that certainly enough to trash a carbon seat No harm done, clean it up with a scraper and then a wire wheel in a drill, I'd use a brass wire wheel just because I have them, nice and steady and clean with brake cleaner On your second picture, I'd be removing the stud (hopefully that's the only one that didn't come out) and using a fine toothed flat file dead flat on the flange to face it a bit, same with the turbo face but make sure no filings end up in the turbo, I pack the port with rag (not fluffy rag) do the facing then use a magnet to pull most filings before removing the rag then a good blow out with air or brake cleaner On your third picture I see a shiny ring right about half way down the vanes on the housing intake side, check that this is not the vanes contacting the housing, if it is you will see a corresponding mark on the vane edges, my guess is it's right on a slight ridge where the housing changes angle, the airflow over this will keep it clean just the same as the front edges of the vanes are always cleaner than the sides, check for shaft play, there should be some, the specs will be in the FSM, I never check specs as I've seen that many a quick wobble is enough just pay attention to how close to the housing the vanes can actually get as it's always better to change a turbo before the vanes eat the housing, if you think it's close check the specs The shaft should turn freely BUT some removed units do have a bit of a resistance to start to spin by hand but it is only a bit, a little oil down the oil feed usually makes a difference Also the vane at around 10 to 11 o'clock what is the mark/line check it is just carbon, check the others too because of this one I see nothing on your 4th picture other than a face that needs facing and there are no marks on the housing so the ring on the intake side is probably an air polished ring and not vane contact

Sorry but I both agree and disagree I agree as Dodge designed the truck to operate 3.55 and 35 tyres does cause some problems no doubt about that certainly with EGT's BUT once that is realised, with a auto just lock out OD and EGT's drop like a stone to figures that are fine, trans then stays in lockup most of the time and you have a really nice high OD when needed as in downhill My truck.... engine and trans stock as far as I know, quad and mechanical LP, 315 tyres and 3.55's, quad on lvl9 of a tow tune and I tow most of the time. I lock out OD and 2037rpm is 55mph, 2100rpm is just over 60mph EGT's never a problem, I would say in 3rd LU on our motorways my gearing is a little too low and I could go to a slightly bigger tyre, but I won't, around town and on smaller roads my gearing is just right as even when not towing I still lock out OD a lot as my truck holds onto lockup to just below our town speed limit All it means is I effectively loose LU for a lot of the time but I wouldn't tow in LU other than downhill anyway so no harm done there More ways than one to end up at the same place

My truck sort off surged or you might call it bucked quite bad when I first fitted the quad always hard acceleration, just sort of jumped a lot till I backed off a little then it was fine, my thought it was the OD slipping This was on lvl 4 or 5 of a tow tune for stock truck, got ~~ssed off babying it turned it up to 9 and all gone no longer jumps/bucks or surges cos it's always on lvl9 now

You've lost me "Arizona"........... it's in the south of England about 180 miles from me or did I not read it right Oh I see now, it's got fake USA plates on it, you used to be able to get these here with a UK reg number on them but then a state also Can't get them now all banned but up to now previous plates have not been made illegal

Came across a 1st Gen Cummins on Ebay UK if only I didn't use my truck for work I'd get shut and dive in on a 1st gen https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165303643861?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D19b89403208a48dd8c26652589ff7a0a%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D183621570250%26itm%3D165303643861%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aaa30c046-8370-11ec-94f8-5275ed8b2457|parentrq%3Ab5d3860a17e0a6451a09d8ecfff0e9ea|iid%3A1

It's aluminium isn't it ? just get it welded, Mig would work good but TIG is the deal, and 100% fixed, guess it depends on how close anyone is with a MIG or TIG, here they are hired out

One thing @Tractorman mentions is that the VP was used a lot certainly over here/ Europe and while they did fail it was nowhere near like you guys and I doubt there are that many Gen2 Cummins in Rams over here to make a comparison. The one thing you can say is that all are used in much smaller engines yes the VP is different slightly but it's still a VP Also here vehicles tend to be bean tins after 100k as in squashed, yes some do high mileage most don't, smaller country smaller mileage I am a firm believer in over capacity of anything mechanical as in "if it needs to do so much design it to do twice what is needed" a bit like older V8's never stressed at all, I wonder if 24v 5.9 is a step too far for the VP certainly when first used not so bad now maybe due to people fixing the poor materials of the various parts used and other various tricks like 2 stroke oil for you guys

I pump out of the basket and the return is also in the basket, I have made a filler neck return last summer but never got around to fitting it My truck NEVER goes below 1/2 tank Idle FP is 8 ish . 2k plus is 22 ish Mechanical LP is just about in cold air flow from the front Fuel temps low I did some testing like I said earlier but not with a flow gauge, I have a mechanical FP gauge and with engine idling and FP around 8psi I used a brake line clamp on my return line from the FP regulator to tank and very slowly restricted it and saw a comparative increase in FP with every turn of the screw, I only went to a point where I was happy This proved to me that while at idle I "only" have 8 psi what I do have is a lot of fuel going back to tank and with a mechanical LP it only goes up with RPM

I hope your made O rings seal ok but if you are still having problems replace that first don't assume your made seal is ok

I tested my truck. mechanical lift pump, idles at 8 psi ish wot around 22 psi ish always a lot of fuel returning to tank even at 8, I didn't measure it like John as I was happy with what I saw, fuel temps never a concern for me

Here in the UK on a car license you can only tow 3500kg or 7700lb legally, there is also something about if you passed your test after I think 97 it is only 750kg, trailer test is needed to then tow 3500kg, before 97 it's 3500kg, my truck/trailer and truck and 5th are both over but the thing is it doesn't look so so I don't get pulled So his 2.2 ford engined peugeot will carry a 2200lb in the tipper body and also tow 7700lb not supposed to do both at the same time though as the GTW is not 10klb plus the vehicle I'm glad I fitted a resettable thats for sure

I got a call from my son on Tuesday, his Peugeot Boxer tipper has stopped on a busy crossroads 8 in the morning Got there 11.6v at the battery, so I disconnected the quad and jump started his van off of my truck, once running as soon as I disconnected the jump leads it stopped, alternator dead and the stupid ECM will not let the engine run, didn't pay any attention to my truck or the gauges just towed the thing home, our drive is long but narrow so my truck is blocked in by this van Fast forward a day, new alternator fitted to the Peugeot (what a job, and low and behold there are no belt adjusters for alternator and PS belt, both are "stretch fit" which means an absolute mule to get on in a FWD van, it's a Ford transit 2.2 engine so expect rubbish) Anyway Peugeot is gone and I go to start my truck to hook up to my trailer and notice the check gauges light on for longer than normal and only rising to about 12v when running, pops the bonnet and the 150amp breaker on the charge lead has popped, 7.5amp fuse on the blue wire is good That 150amp breaker could have just saved me an alternator or worse and it's nice to know with a breaker fitted whenever jump starting it's just the batteries and nothing else doing the starting as the breaker just pops. I'll know next time to reset straight after, in fact best thing to do is to pop the breaker by hand before jumpstarting anything or at least anything as small as a 2.2 Turd engine and I wouldn't use my truck to JS anything big anyway

I picked up 2 exhaust brakes for the Cummins 5.9 for I think £100, one is brand new but hadn't got an actuating cylinder the other is an old one and it's seized solid, this has a cylinder but the rod is bent due to the shaft being seized, and also the cylinder is seized too Like you say "use it or lose it"