wil440

Sorry I tried to reply to this on the day and I couldn't post for some reason then forgot all about it Yes my headlights are stock and have the left/right/up/down adjustment, thing is they are biased to point to the right which is where oncoming traffic is here and to be fair why wouldn't they be biased to the right, as far as I know 2nd gens were never sold direct to any country that drives on the left. We drive on the left harking back to swords, horses and armour as most people were thought to be right handed so if you are on the left your sword hand is free to smite an oncomer dead, as a side note when I was at primary school over 50 years ago teachers tried real hard to recondition to be right handed, If I picked anything up with my left hand I got a ruler on the knuckles this was at 5 and above. Luckily it didn't work but now at nearly 60 I use both hands pretty much equal which is really handy doing what I do, I would challenge anyone that is soley right handed to change a starter on a Cat 769C Anyway I digress, in the UK the only way to get the lights on 2nd gens to not blind oncoming is to set them low as the adjustment doesn't point them far enough to the left also the headlight lenses are not designed the same as ours, we have pronounced cutoffs on the lense, shielding on the bulb and bulb angle

Most big companies make very little nowadays Cat for instance....... make frames and that's it as far as I know but what they do is they have 100% control over the manufacturing process and usually they designed said part in the first place and if there is a problem and there often is they are on it right away to get it sorted out, 100 % different to the el cheapo chinese knockoff copy, also companies don't give away their designs at least for a period of time. I'm not saying OEM is better or worse, horses for courses as they say and the wallet is always the decider.... well country of origin comes first for me

You're right, I totally missed the miles on the oil ... my fault for not seeing that, if you take average MPH say at 30 then it's at a little over 110 As for viscosity it depends what standard it's measured with see sample below also see soot levels Here is a engine oil sample of a Cat 950H loading shovel, lab is Finning which is the Cat dealer for the UK, Cat set the sample standards and the dealers have to follow couldn't convert it from a PDF though oil sample.pdf

It will be awhile before a Cat777 dumptruck is all electric yes the heavy dumptrucks are electric drive but have a monster diesel to generate the power, this is only because electric drive gets rid of a transmission changing gear which means for a split second on a climb there is a very small period of time where the trans is in neutral which breaks drivelines when hauling heavy 150 ton and up, electric is linear so much less breakages

two things here you can usually bet on, no snow before Jan/Feb and we don't get dry

what about Dap

snow in the UK unusual for this time of year

I use Cat oil analysis on ever service I do, I am a Mobile Plant Mechanic, work for myself and look after 12 or 13 sites for one customer, Cat, Volvo, JCB, Bobcat and others Everything is sampled at 500hr intervals and In my opinion formed over 40 years Cat is the benchmark for oil lab analysis Your result is good Tiny bit of iron so no crank or cam or valve train wear No aluminium No copper, chrome, lead or tin to speak of so no crank or cam wear and no crank or cam bearing wear No sodium or dirt to speak of so nothing is getting in and your air cleaners are doing what they were supposed to do No soot to speak of so valve guides/rings are good (if this was high on a modern engine a EGR cooler would be in the firing line) No fuel, water or glycol found in the engine oil so HG good I recently had a coolant sample back for a Volvo L110E with the Duetz engine in it, Nitrates were a little high and the colour for Cat ELC coolant not quite right, just a little dull when I sampled it, I noted that on the sample ticket, when it came back to me I went to take a look, did a Snap On combustion gas test and yep headgasket gone, caught it before it boiled up so just a headgasket no more damage, on further checking the water pump had been cavitating and had almost spark eroded a neat line alongside each vane both sides fluid sampling saves money, in my job oils were changed at set hrs yes engine oil every service but trans, hydraulic and axles at 2000hrs now the oil lab says when trans, hyd and axles oils are changed, saves a fortune as 45 gallon barrels in each compartment is easy

To be honest some of the sealing tapers look bad if they were mine I'd be sourcing a new set The biggest problem is tube flex caused by the constant hammering of the injection event and then when they are removed and refitted there is a small twist at the ferrule which can and does cause very small peices of steel to fracture off on the inside Caterpillar say never to reuse injector tubes, this wasn't so in earlier engines when injector pressures weren't so high and hole sizes so small, there's now smaller holes but more of so atomization is better and the flame front travels faster and the burn is cleaner, not SO much of a problem on a 2nd gen granted as it's tractor technology compared to today but having said all that your ferrules look poor

my only option is Rockauto usually, always a good price and a lot of choice (add in the shipping duty and vat to get to me then ouch) never had a single problem other than me ordering wrong which Is not a problem other than time as I just sell on anyway, I usually plan my parts ordering so it's here way before I need it to be. I can get engine stuff off the shelf here without going to the American vehicle parts suppliers (read rip off merchants) and also propshaft U/J's but that's about it Rock all the way and they do dealer closeouts too, I recently got brake lines, ball joints, rear brake shoes, and a good pile of other stuff not all for my truck for peanuts

Truck passed it's MOT check last night all good no faults and no advisories, headlamps a little low but as they point to the wrong side for here I always get told about this, If I set them to the right height then they are too high for oncoming traffic. Drivers upper ball joint has a tiny bit of wear but nothing to worry about, I intend next year to have it MOTed in the summer as I'm sick of checking it over and fixing it in the cold so will do the BJ before then

I bought them to recondition and sell on hopefully take cores back to do again, shipping 4 calipers from the USA would make them a really expensive item here so maybe I'll make a little ££ and help someone along the way. I'd guess most people with normal tools wouldn't have been able to get the pistons out of these they were seized solid. Going to drop them off at a company that can blast them clean.... none abrasive of course this week, all the rebuild parts inc pads have arrived from Rock and I'm in for around £140 ish total for the 4 calipers. £65 inc shipping duty and vat for parts, £60 total for the blasting and £10 for the 4 calipers

Well I won't get one shot thats for sure

Dropped on a set of brake calipers for a 3rd gen both fronts and rears to rebuild, they were is a sorry state but £10 for all 4 is ok. Pistons were well and truely seized, tried a few things to get them out, wouldn't budge using compressed air so settled on a 24mm metric coarse taper tap which taps into the piston end just nice, a 24mm nut screwed onto the tap before turning it into the piston gives a nice flat surface to lever against, this pulled all 8 out, if this would have failed I was going to machine a tube to sit over the piston and a big washer and use the nut and tap to pull the pistons out... didn't need to in the end I found it best to leave the steel end cap on as it gives the piston a little more strength Going to get them blasted and then rebuild

I did that mod last year and it made a really big difference, like I say I'm not sure if the accumulator is just for engine off brakes or whether it would actually give pressure at low rpm steering/braking

I take it nothing is available except to the rebuilders, I couldn't find anyone selling the accumulator shame really as all it is is an ally canister with a gas bag in it and a piston, I refitted the hydroboost this morning all good, this is after reading a very old thread on here from 2016, @Haggar about a ball bearing and the pedal going to the floor and me thinking WHAT ball bearing, for the record a 98.5 hydroboost DOES NOT have a ball bearing anywhere at least anywhere I took apart, what it does have is a small pin around 3/8th long with a ball end in the accumulator charge check valve, I very nearly stripped the hydroboost again just to check for this ball bearing but decided I'd trust what I pictured and how it went back together. If a replacement accumulator isn't available I'm sure I could machine a piece of aluminium with a O ring groove etc just the same as the accumulator and machine threads in the centre for a high pressure fitting and either use a high pressure hydraulic hose or high pressure steel line to a rechargeable accumulator, my problem with this is I don't know what the precharge pressure of the OE accumulator is, does anyone on here know what the precharge pressure of a blue accumulator is ????? I can get a rechargeable accumulator for around £50 The other way of figuring this out is to find out what the output pressure of the PS pump is and go lower by an amount Why am I thinking about this ..... simple, I have large tyres, and I have to reverse around a right hand corner and then a straight narrow driveway about 150yrds to get my truck and work trailer onto my property, I'm just wondering if slow speed a lot of steering and braking etc whether the accumulator would be any use, I can't decide whether the PS pump is good enough to provide both steering and power brakes at low rpm

I have just finally resealed the Hydroboost on my truck only had the seal kit for most of this year, MOT (our yearly check) is overdue so as it was leaking and that would be a fail I decided nows the time. The reseal went ok, had to cut the rod as it's a staked item, I was going to make a threaded joiner on my lathe but decided against that as the inner bore of the input seals are tiny compared to the rod they have to be fitted over to get to their grooves and didn't want sharp threads incase I had to ever reaseal again, anyway thats all done and rod welded back together. Question is has anyone got a picture of the accumulator looking right in it, specifically how far does the piston sit down in the casing as mine is over 1/2 way down, I think it has lost it's pressure, the other question is if it is toast then where do I get one from ?

Not sure where to put this, for sale in the UK not by me I will add. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265413198482?hash=item3dcbdc0292:g:1NkAAOSwXI1hl9h2 $22600 to you guys Just gobsmacked at the price these are at now, I paid £7k for mine 3 or 4 years ago, I've done a lot of work to mine but nowhere near £10k

Thing is it may arrive with damage but ally is much more robust and fixable than plastic. Trust me I mulled it over for over a month cos you are right $700 is a big pill to swallow but for me the ally rad is the way to go..... hopefully last the truck and me out

Yes you could buy 5 OE radiators but you are NOT 3000miles + away from a replacement when the cheapo chinese plastic cracks again, or arrives damaged, and an OE radiator is not £400 to your door, I've always tried to buy the best I can afford for both my rams due to the above. And really when you look at the OE radiator it is rubbish

I only know of one radiator shop local ish to me and all they do is recores on brass copper, I asked them to take the ends off of a rad that I again bought for next to nothing brand new and the tanks were very badly dented (another shipping damaged peice) they took them off and dropped them back to me and I straightened all the dents out and basically made them look brand new, I dropped the tanks back to them for them to solder them back on, the idiots had ripped a huge chunk of the fins out trying to get one area to seal, radiator basically unsaleable, was for a 68 or 69 charger, still have it in my workshop gathering dust waiting for me to find a section of fins from somewhere, it doesn't leak but it looks like a pigs ear. Worst thing was I very nearly soldered them back on myself, wished I had I'd have made a better job so a custom aluminium rad for less than £700 I doubt, here in the UK our manufacturing base is all but extinct I looked at the rock ally one but it was not in stock when I looked.... glad it wasn't if the reviews are not good, the Mishi has good reviews only bad one I have read was shipping damage and that was bent fins ( I have a radiator comb) and a bent mounting bracket ( I could fix that)

Totally agree but just think how many couriers handle stuff to get to me all probably on minimum wage and couldn't give a monkeys, where I used to work one guy delivered for TNT on a daily basis and got to know him quite well, he was careful but the back of his truck looked like a bomb had gone off, I asked him why, he told me the night time loading people just don't care and as you say just throw stuff around, he did say they are worse with packages with the "fragile" tape on them I don't use that now

Probably is but at least I know where it's made and it should arrive undamaged. Here's one.... I recently bought a A/C condensor for a later ram from a company here that sells surplus stuff for other companies this had arrived here from the USA, it has/had some pipework on one side, this was all smashed and bent beyond repair, I paid £3 for it , removed the damaged parts and I have a good condenser, stuff gets smashed by couriers rather regular

OE from Rockauto is £400 to my door, The aluminium one from Rock is £500 no clue as to where it's made, Mishimoto is £700 MIUSA If a OE radiator with plastic tanks arrives at my door damaged the cost of shipping it back would be more than the radiator is worth and I don't get the shipping duty and Vat back either just because it's scrap so what do I do simple order another and cough up another £400 eeerr no thanks As for the Rock aluminium one..... doesn't say where it's made so thats a no as I don't mind spending more money to make sure I don't buy chinese stuff

Sometimes it's the case when getting stuff shipped internationally from the USA, thing was 3 ebay companies listed international shipping but all three declined, 1 refunded and 2 messaged to say no, don't see the problem myself especially if using ebays GSP which one of them didn't BTW, never has a problem with GSP. I've just ordered front and rear brake caliper rebuild parts from Rock for a complete set of calipers for a 02 to 07 as I scored a full set for £10 plus post from a guy here, that order will arrive early next week so there is no problem really. I tried a little stop leak a month or so ago, didn't stop the leak so didn't bother using any more, I use Cat ELC coolant probably have 40 gallon of it for customers machines I work on so have just been topping it up. On the stock radiator I'd read a few reviews where tanks had got cracked, bits broken off etc due to shipping, that's no use to me as once here I own it really as shipping back would be more than the rad is worth at least with a aluminium rad it's a lot more durable and I can weld/repair aluminium anyway so long as the core is good I could repair most damage