wil440

No GVW although they can tow a trailer https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/211948/simplified-guide-to-lorry-types-and-weights.pdf Then there is the exempt heavy haulage but they only move under police orders

Tipper.... here we don't use side dump or belly dump much, never seen a side dump on road, have seen a few "underbody" or belly dump, mainly stuff like grain into below ground storage What is used here a lot is walking floor trucks, these are usually for lighter stuff like recyclable plastics and stuff like that, also stuff for landfill, the floor of the trailer walks the stuff out like a conveyor with say a foot wide aluminium slats the width of the trailer body, these are driven by chains, doesn't wear the floor our just the sides, good for bad ground as the body isn't tipped (dumped) so can't fall over Can't beat labour for goods.... cuts out the taxman, here the Vat man (collective description for the gov body that collects and calculates VAT) has way more power than the police, they can immediately shut a business down for good, imprison whoever, seize whatever, basically do whatever they want to do Around small roads we have a 7.5T weight limit except for access, in the village we live in (Whitwick) no HGV allowed other than deliveries so no passing through, when I first started work at the Granite quarry at one end of the village there was no weight limit so trucks could and did drive through, local council put a weight limit on around the late 80's, by the early 90's the quarry had shut as the weight limit just added too much extra mileage to the quarry delivery trucks, probably 15 to 20 mile extra if coming from the west of the village. Also in this area there were around 10 deep coal mines so lots of coal trucks, all done and shut now

here a dump truck is offroad as in earthmovers Cat 777 are dumptrucks,this is probably because the benchmark is Cat, tipper trucks are on road http://thompsonsuk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/DM22949-copy.jpg that needs a good tight hinge or it's on it's side

I didn't take any pics unfortunatly. here is an 8 wheel tipper https://trucks.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/daf/cf/202105192812494 There is a hinge bar at the back that allows the tipper body to pivot.... basically 2 1/4 bar with bushes in a bracket each side on the chassis and the same on the tipper body, body brackets sit on the outside of the chassis brackets next one I'll take pics

Got the tipper bar all done, lathe saved some money... not a huge amount but still a saving I'd say around £100 on end caps Got at least 3 more tipper bars and bosses to do for the same guy who runs tipper trucks with grab cranes, boy that is easy money, 2 1/4" bar around 4ft long with bushes in the body brackets and chassis brackets, bought the 2 1/4 bar and used the lathe to turn the 4 bushes out of steel tube to 3 3/8th outer and 2.2515 inner, two of at 6" long and 2 of 3 1/4 long All done mobile out of my truck and trailer, every tool known to man, grinders, oxy acetylene, generator, mig welder, porta power hydraulic cylinders, kettle for coffee and a cooking stove for food. Need to add a 9" 110v grinder, bigger generator and more..... It was a sight to see the ram being used for what it was built for instead of the pampered show queens that they are here in the UK, but I will add neither of my trucks have ever been show rubbish

My truck had a sticking power steer relief valve, easy enough to inspect, I know this fault doesn't really point to the relief but it is really easy to check and rule out. Also you say the hydroboost has been replaced.... that in my experience doesn't automatically mean the new part is any better than the old nowadays, was the booster/accumulator changed also. If you still have the old unit Pirate Jacks kit is MIUSA and good quality

This is a Transwave here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRANSWAVE-Static-Converter-STC4-5-5hp-4kW-Single-3-phase-240v-415v-/154293233217?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQjw7pKFBhDUARIsAFUoMDbWnsbIIKwAP1j3QXsj2OwAo6hpP-bvtNF2yAlALhuhYee7I8YLOLQaAv_EEALw_wcB 2.2hp is mine, lathe motor is 1.5hp so all good, ammeter says 15 amp at startup and around 3 amps running, thing is If i'm left with any of the woodworking stuff the convertor will run it all as it has done for years..... not all at the same time though, I also bought a 12" table saw thats 3 phase for wood.... for a song.... may well sell the chinese one I have and keep the proper old one that will cut straight, I have some stud walls to make for a shower so may well test it on that. Got a tipper bar and bosses to do over the weekend with the lathe already

me too I could fill a football field easily Wired the lathe this morning, I was a little concerned as to whether these new distribution boards we have to have in new builds would be ok with the phase convertor, runs great, done a few cuts to figure out whats what going to figure out the thread cutting tomorrow

Picked up a few nice peices from a retired pattern maker A Harrison 140 lathe 3 phase 415v 11" old money which was measured as a total, or 140mm, centre of chuck to bed, maybe 2ft or more bed length, including a phase converor to go from 240V single phase to 415V 3 Phase, this has took 3 days to clean after years of being covered in saw dust, swarfe etc, in really good condition, this is not going to be sold, shame it isn't big enough to skim up my trucks rear drums Zimmerman 2ft disc sander 3 phase 415v, tilting bed, sold new to Pegsons crusher manufactures just down the road from where I live in 1977, cleaned and on ebay Wadkin bobbin sander, 3 phase 415v also sold new to Pegsons not sure how old, cleaned and on ebay Wadkin RS woodturning lathe, 3 phase 415V 85" bed length, chucks, several face plates, one is 3ft diameter driven out of the back of the headstock end of the lathe made in the 30's full working order, I would love to keep this but it's just too big

Yes that would figure The story of how Cat bought perkins is funny.... Perkins used to supply engines to JCB, JCB is a direct competitor to Cat in the smaller machine market so Cat bought Perkins and then stopped JCB buying engines.... backfired really cos JCB now make their own engines and they are actually quite good, did the same with Turner transmissions which are fitted to the cat backhoe, forced them to the brink of bancruptcy then bought them for next too nowt

The newer small Cat engines are pants for it, but then again they are Perkins engine, Cat don't make nothing themselves anymore other than frames as far as I know, EGR coolers get changed more than injectors down to the idiot in the cab, turning engines off while cooking and bubbling instead of letting them idle for a spell

EGR coolers are only on newer stuff with regen and coolant goes into the intake

That is so but a low pressure part like induction is then followed by a high pressure compression and ignition, it would pressurize the cooling system and also cause combustion gas to be in the coolant which if bad enough will make the motor overheat, a combustion gas tester for coolant will find that. One other thing to consider, has the truck got the same plastic expansion tank as mine... side of the radiator, is this ok and the pipework to it, I've seen machine drivers put 2 gallon of coolant into a machine every day, turns out it pushes out what it doesn't need when hot but can't pull it back in when cold

In a nutshell NO.... spread a little thinking on your question ..... coolant pressure around 14psi...... combustion pressures way way higher, although I have seen coolant leaks into cylinders when motor is cold but you know this is happening on startup as 1. if it fires then it wants to snap the crank into peices as a liquid is not compressable at all, 2. if it's just a little bit of coolant getting into a cylinder then it's steam train for a few minutes on startup Purchase a Cat oil lab test kit, not expensive for 1 sample kit, this checks for everything in a compartment and if coolant is getting into a combustion chamber it will find it

as I said at the beginning IF wireing looks to be ok on a visual drop the pan and check solenoids, if you have disconnected the trans plug at the trans and the fuse does not blow then it is inside the trans and everything electrical is doable with the pan dropped, something in there or even wiring will be shorted to earth..... ground where you are

Copied from elsewhere P0753 DODGE Possible Causes Low transmission fluid level Dirty transmission fluid Faulty shift solenoid valve Shift solenoid valve harness or connectors Shift solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted I've been diagnosing heavy plant faults for over 40 years, worked for Caterpillar, Finning UK (the Cat dealer here) field service and several quarries and here's a tip directly from Caterpillar..... follow the diagnostic procedure to the letter for the code you are working on and never deviate.... you will find the fault sooner or later and get there with the minimum parts used. Now on the list above IF the fluid level and condition is good and a look over wiring, I'd be onto number 3 and drop the pan unless ohm checking the external wiring is really easy and quick Also lists like above are usually written in probability order if from a good source

I checked LMC. dash cost is good that would be £600 ish at my door, no difference to you guys running a landrover but the question I beg to ask is why would you. BUT I'm asked that most days..... why would you run that (ram)..... answer is ...... check the towing figures I'm just moaning for no reason, I know what I got and I know the cost of what I got I will try the hot wire first, another thing on the list

I think you miss the point of stop leak it is what it is. IE buy some time before the job is done then flush the system. Peeps might not be able to afford the job or not be without the vehicle for a while. I carry several tubs as a concrete plant with 200 cube on for the day ain't going to want to stop and cancel cos of a coolant leak

I just checked overall cost for a dash cover from R/A Cover £158, shipping £233, £78 Vat, total £470, for delivery before 13th May, cheaper delivery at £164 was an option, there would be import duty to pay on that too, that's going to be same shipping size as a dash so my guess for $300 it would be £600 to £800 at my door for a dash

Tablets were never sold in my local store, this is the place that you could buy a Spitfire prop from ( joking) store goes back to the 30's and they used to keep everything not so much now Always sold Dog S

John Here https://www.encyclopedia.com/social-sciences-and-law/economics-business-and-labor/businesses-and-occupations/echlin-inc Seems to have a good history I'm in the position of using various mobile plant manufacturers parts including Cat, Komatsu, Volvo, Hyundai, JCB, Bobcat ETC ETC and certainly electrical sensors are not always good out of the box

Here in the UK we call that Dog **it, not derogator by any means just a good description of what it looks, like here it used to be about 3 or 4 inch long and brown Seems to have been replaced at my local parts place by K seal in a bottle ..... I mean in a bottle what next bring back Dog **it, Bars will work and last and be fine in heater cores

The Snap On Verus Pro ought to connect not on OBD2 generic, my first check would be to make the Verus ID the truck and scan properly. Generic is what it was always supposed to be ...., as in all makes all faults but I'd want to be seeing a vin connect as some manufacturers don't follow the spirit of things, Dodge is one

In truth I don't know, but I will say one thing ..... a CKP sensor really does not output volts it outputs a sine wave which is not measureable with a normal voltmeter What scan tool did you use ?? If you have CKP and CMP signals where were these ? were these reported by the ecm but not reported by the pcm, or vise versa @Mopar1973Man will likely be along and add wiring diagrams I wouldn't be jumping nothing from anywhere eichlin .... where's that made ??

Just had this ad thrown at me while looking on face88ck is that the right spelling...... I'm kindof dicklexit and BTW the boffins just couldn't have found a worst word to describe someone that can't recognise letters or words https://www.diectary.com/products/6165?fbclid=IwAR1mbk8JRKcWl4lLRSr3oCD1sqAVcT522HBfl_1RYjPejhoyiWfsZQBl8nk says MIUSA I doubt that But I think I could figure out how to do that with a 12v battery or maybe a ......... I've just had a Einstein moment, I have a Snap-On sensor tester that can input voltages from 0 to 8 or maybe 10v, I use it to substitute input voltage and output voltages either to sensors or ecm's, PCM's whatever. Thing is it's run from a 12v supply so if I could either find the wire forms or make them I could repair my cracked dash, might struggle with the dimpled look but it might not rattle like a certain snake