wil440

Me...., everything I can think of goes, was In Cumbria with the 5th wheel last August (Cumbria is North West England right on the Scots border) 5th was parked on the site for 2 weeks, we went to Hadrians wall which was built by the Romans to keep the Scots out and came back to the truck to find diesel on the ground... Luckily it was the return line back to tank underneath the driver, there is a clamp there that holds diesel lines this had rubbed through/fractured the steel factory return line, I did have to get rubber fuel line and jubilee clips from a store in Carlisle BUT I did have a battery grinder to cut the line with. If it hadn't have been the return I would have been done for as where we were was at least 20 miles from anywhere I do have a spare pcm under the seat, just need a ecm and a vp or better still sell the thing and get something more reliable and BTW my truck has never let me down but it will

The shiney polished leading edge is a 100% indicator of sucking unfiltered air, if a turbo has done 100's of hrs (sorry my job is in hrs not miles) like 5k 10k then you would expect to see your picture, if it hasn't done many hrs/ miles then check out the air cleaner/filter as it's not "cleaning"........a lot of hrs sucking dust the leading edge can get quite sandblasted with pits with dark carbon on the rest of the vane

I found the Thuren aligment specs for stock height rams, It says to make sure first that toe is 0 or close so I'm going to check that first and then see whatthe cams are at now, just haven't had time to check it out yet

Same here too Slightly off topic here but 2 months or so ago I was looking for work sweatshirts with hoods the typical hoodie is suppose..... keeps neck warm out on site, anyway saw an advert for a company actually on the ebay home page, not listed on ebay but promoted by, company was called Blaroken and had some really good stuff a lot of it military, checked it out and the Company says it's in Cornwall which is south west UK, all good so I ordered nearly £200, cargo work trousers, hoodies and boots. Didn't hear a thing for about a week but was given a tracking number, checked the number out yup china, cancelled my order and made them refund ££ GGRRRR

I presume an Encore is a scanner ?? and I also presume voltages were 15.1 running and 9.8 engine stopped if so then running is too high and stopped is too low. Stopped I'd be wanting to see 12.2 or 12.4 ish without the heater blower is on and everything electrical is also on I'd be checking batteries/cables etc if that stopped figure is right. If I've presumed wrong just call me stupid

plate should be ROLLER SKATE I can't believe in the land of the free and V8's that Smart cars have even been allowed off the boat, should just toss em overboard with the used orange crates or just bolt wheels and a lawn mower engine into the orange crate and toss the smart

Would it not be easier just to make a new pipe that doesn't have a air trap in it ? or am I just missing the point somewhere ?? it would only ~~ss me off the once. I do my brake bleeding on my own using a snap on 24" breaker bar, fits nicely beween pedal and seat front or pedal and steering wheel

I'm curious..... why the big deal on bleeding these, every clutch I've ever bled is one on the pedal and one on the bleed nipple and a lot of "down... down.....up....up...... down....down...... up.....up ok jobs a fish all good, whats different here enlighten me, did the dumb sh~~s put the bleed nipple on the underside of the slave or somat... what!

Not high boost... high cylinder pressures, 50 psi, 100 psi no matter it won't make the slightest difference compared to 1000's of PSI cylinder pressures with timing too far advanced

Do you guys have Smart cars over there, they are made I think by Merc which for the record I wouldn't touch with a pole but Smart cars I'm sure the way to get in is to be poured in through a hole in the roof, or a Renault Twingo which is not much more than a tobogan, don't even sit side by side in this thing, just like a long bathtub with a tent on the top, this is battery, Smart uses a Suzuki motorcycle engine IIRC. About 6 or 7 years ago I was in Waco Texas for a month working for Caterpillar doing transmission changes on Cat backhoes, there is a large Cat facility full of brand new machines, did 130 odd trans changes in a month, 6 of us all from the Cat factory here in the UK where they were built, staying in a large hotel on a shopping mall in Waco somewhere, not actually a huge amount of shops but the area for parking was huge and I mean huge, best thing was a bar on the parking area 5mins walk from the hotel Perfick

As for it stopping I wonder if combustion pressures overcame an injector or injectors, I have seen this before on a Scania mobile crusher, engine started to blue smoke/misfire for no reason, fuel filters were black with soot, change the FF it ran fine for a while then same thing combustion gas was getting into the fuel via a bad injector or injectors, new set solved it, so look at it slightly different, injector pressures ok but combustion pressures too high as a head has lifted it just might have filled injectors with combustion gas, after a restart everything ok No real difference, heat through compression and then inject fuel BOOM same deal really as a spark

The detonation/injection event does need to be before TDC as max expansion/force onto the piston need to be ATDC so to allow for flame front travel it needs to be before TDC and every engine no matter what fuel it burns will have an optimum ATDC figure for max force downwards this is the sole reaon for power increases/decreases on timing events, this is infinetly variable but main things are cam specs/duration, injection timing, spark timing for gas, temperature, fuel octane and more. You could have the biggest jet engine in the world pushing air into a diesel engine and it still won't come close to combustion pressures

Drive pressure on it's own won't push a head up unless you got chocolate bolts/studs, high timing more like, piston on it's way up and then BOOM injection event a little too soon, flame front expanding onto the top of the piston... piston still coming up, only takes fractions of degrees, just like detonation on a gas motor except a diesel does detonation every time it fires If a little early then forces are huge and it's just unsettled the head in the leaking area is all

I just re read this and see that the batteries are new and have been discounted, more than likely they are good but from my experience nowadays just because something is new that doesn't automactically mean it's ok and works as it should especially if made out of chinesium, quality control just isn't what it used to be and china is getting very clever in hiding where stuff is made

Thought that was down to your exhaust brake not tyre size or am I just missing something

John don't be sorry on the suggestion perfectly good point in the USA, this is just a snippet of what owners of these truck face certainly in the UK and as ever from yourself loads of useful information. I'm struggling to see the impact of taller tyres on caster (and I only know this word because of yourself IBM and hag .... thanks) forks rake is easier, like I said not checked here I know my 3500 QCLB 5.9V8 4x4 drives different and much more like a modern vehicle with exactly the same steering, doesn't wander and doesn't sound like a Cat D8 although the settings on the quad are now better and it sounds pretty good, steering box is new on that..., I may swap it to see what the difference is... 3500 is parked for rotten door bottoms and I'm not paying the silly prices of panels to my door I'll make em when I get time. I actually prefer my 3500 as a driver.... as a tow truck 2500 hands down I think, not sure what I would think with a propane convo on the 3500, might get me a converted 30 to the gallon, I only bought my 2500 diesel as it looks right with the bigger tyres and easier to park here without getting fines, any tyres on parking bay white markings are a £60 fine, can't get inside the bay with a 3500 back wheel..... Last fine in my 3500 I told the parking idiot to make the bays bigger and refused to pay.... that cost me £100 eventually When all this covid crap is over come take a look so so much different to the USA

John did you forget I'm in the UK ...... alignment shop >>> no such thing here, tracking (toe in/out) is all thats done and I had to go buy a set of old Dunlop tracking gauges to set that myself as all this laser crap doesn't go big tyres This is why I didn't know what to check as it's not checked here, no such measurements in the mainstream, might be able to get it checked at a wreck repair centre but these now are few and far between and that would cost more than wandering off the motorway into a ditch here the slightest damage to a vehicle it's squashed, I have never come across the washers on the lower control arms on anything other than Rams, certainly nothing here as in Landrover/Toyota etc 4x4 My wheel/tyre is just at the very limit of clearance at the rear of the well, drops my cruising rpm just nice in ODLU and towing I watch EGT and drop into 3LU at near 900F, I'm very carefull of all this with a stock (as far as I know ) auto and a quad. I'm pretty sure my tyres aren't really any taller than the stock ones on my 3500 they are 305/70/16, my sig says 315 this is wrong they are 305. I've said also before right now I haven't the time to build tunes for the quad, I have a towing tune I got off here, I tow maybe 11k all in with the truck and was using 3 or 4 out of 9 with a lot of what I thought was trans LU slip, it was bucking not trans, now on 9 out of 9 and motor wise it will eat what I tow all day every day with low EGT / coolant and load figures, It runs really good trans not so, I probably need to just stomp it and kill it then I will have to find a good trans builder and get it done We are all different and want different things although I would say your truck would be worth more than mine as mine won't be stock, excluding the fact yours is manual trans that is

You're missing nothing.... It makes no difference at all, I was just outlining an extreme to show that a taller tyre actually increases caster but only if fitted ONLY on the front Fitted as a set as in front and rear caster does not change one jot I've said it before... we are all different and our trucks should be all different it's called choice, I for one don't want to ride around on dinner plates and if my wheels and tyres are causing this wander which I doubt I'll fix it but I won't be changing the tyres

Thanks for clarifying, I'll take a look over the weekend, I wonder if the skyjacker lower bars I have are longer if not I could always cut them and make them adjustable Done about 90 miles motorway today and it is better but not perfect, I do probably need to check how it is in the lanes the big trucks cannot drive in as here 99% of the lanes they drive in have ruts and with wide tyres you are constantly up and down the sides, my 1984 landrover had 35" BFG's on it and that followed the ruts like a train, side to side always but never climbed out, only ever one set of wheels in them though as it wasn't wide enough Ram probably is though or at least close No levelling kit, taller tyres yes but wouldn't that increase castor ? truck pivots around the rear axle anticlockwise like if you stood it on it's rear bumper the balljoints would be horizontal, can't get anymore caster than that. I won't be taking my rims and tyres off for anything, If it does need adjustable arms I'll make a pair out of the skyjackers I have, Steering box brace and maybe a new box we'll see

I tried to hit the sad and like but only allowed one, sad was the first

My worst was my 71 Roadrunner 440, the one with the big B shaped bumper parked on a slope, shifter in N, reached in to pull the bonnet catch, got the park brake instead, rolled straight into the back of my Landrover, I even had 10ft trying to stop it by hanging off the door.... not happening, didn't mark the L/R at all, pushed the brand new imported from the USA bumper into the fender and creased it, never mind as 3 days later the brook flooded alongside my workshop and it was in 4ft of water, insurance paid out 16K for that... never seen it since, insurance asked about the fender damage.... I said it must have floated into the workshop wall

Drove maybe 25 miles today to collect filters for 2 services I'm doing tomorrow, truck is 99% better but still not perfect I have a stupid question which I think I know but here goes Please correct me if I'm wrong On the lower control arms the adjustable washers are slim to the rear and fat to the front, now from my motorcycle days that would mean rake (forks) is at the steepest and likely to be quite wild and wandering but fast steering, if the forks were kicked out everything gets nice and lazy, race bike against harley..... my truck feels very skittish like a go kart and I think I need to adjust and get fat to the back, only asking as I know one bolt is siezed so I need to be sure before I have to drill that out too Truck also doesn't self centre very good either. I have a pair of Skyjacker stock length lower arms so might just bolt them on

That switch is expensive and I'm sure if I had a manual and it failed it would be in the bin, I remember 40 odd years ago doing my apprenticeship.... HGV mechanic, the workshop foreman was servicing a 1971 Foden 8 wheeled tipper truck, it was over the service pit with the tipping body up maybe 3 cans (sections of tipping ram) door in front was open all the way but not as high as the tipper body, Foden S38's had a Gardner 6 cylinder diesel, renown for low rpm but huge torque, foreman reached in to start it, didn't realise it was in 1st gear (16 speed Fuller box) with park brake OFF, it fired up and off it went VERY slowly, the front of the tipper body hit the roof of the building and it still kept going, the 2 front axles were over 8 ft off the ground before the rear wheels started to loose traction, still kept ticking over jumping and bucking against the roof, One of the guys was underneath in the pit he'd just started to change a rear spring, his cantilever tool box got squashed but he didn't luckily One of the guys climbed up the frame to the back of the cab and pulled the stop cable, it slowly came back down on it's own due to engine compression. Sorry for the off topic but without the switch a dumbass is dangerous and this guy was the foreman

Plenty of practice getting Cat bottom roller and roller guard bolts out of track frames upside down I'm afraid, my usual trick is to drill out and leave say a 1/16th if the bolt diameter is large enough, then cut a slot in it using a slimmed down hacksaw blade in a air saw, then collapse it a little and wind out, this works great on Cat exhaust manifold bolts too, need to leave a half decent thickness to be able to get it to collapse always drilled with Snap On Cobalt drills but very steady as break one of those and it is game over, couldn't use this method with the axle end on the truck though as no gap at the back to use the hacksaw blade Anyway got it all bolted up and the steering is much better, steering feels nice and tight, I'll be on the motorway (highway) tomorrow so we'll see how that is as motorway was the worst I can't remember who the manufacturer of the bracket was as I bought it pre 2008 at least maybe 2004 ish but more thought should have gone into it 1. A stock 3rd gen bar has 5/8th bolts, stock 2nd gen uses 1/2" bolts, bracket came with 1/2" UNF bolts WHY..... what is the point designing in a possible 1/8th play in both ends, yes I see if the bolts stay tight everything is more than likely going to be ok as the 3rd gen bushes have teeth to grip the sides of the mounts, I drilled the bracket and axle to 5/8th and used Cat 5/8th UNF 10.9 bolts and Nylok nut on the bracket end, axle end I cut the stripped stock 1/2" nut off of it's keeper plate, trimmed down a Nylok nut as there is limited clearance behind and welded that to the original keeper plate 2. There is a long bolt that goes through the crossmember.... pretty much in the middle of the bracket, both the top and bottom faces of this crossmember are not square with the bolt hole in either the x member or the bracket, mickey mouse washers are supplied and after tightening this bolt the head of the bolt and the nut are buried in the washers on one side due to the angle, I checked on forums and this is "OK " and how it is...... err no that is not good enough, i've had to bolt it up but tapered washers is all it needs, I'll just make a pair if I can't find any ( i've used some before but can't remember just now where they were from or what they were for but I will. 3.The taper where the original bar goes into the frame.... the nut and bolt for this comes with a taper bush so it is tight and can't move, not so as the taper bush is about an 1/8th short of the taper in the frame, it goes into the frame taper from below just like the original bar and converts this into a straight bore hole, but it is short so even when bolted up it can drop down, once down the tapers have free play, it should have been longer than the frame taper and the instructions (this is Number 4) should say trim to suit so it has a little crush. 4. No instructions at all and yes I do remember opening the box way back when this arrived.... there was no instructions, if there was instructions I wouldn't have spent an hour on tinternet trying to figure out what goes where, now you could say.... it's a bracket how hard can it be, well at the frame taper a washer is needed underneath the bracket as a spacer and there is a washer included thats the very thickness needed, there is also a 2" ish spacer that who knows where that is supposed to be, it's now in the bolt box I try not to buy anything from china but they do at least include instructions, always in martian and nothing to do with the actual stuff you bought and the stuff you bought is not fit for FA, USA made parts are fit for purpose from my experience BUT if the "KIT" covers more than mine please make me aware of that, I cannot read the designers mind

I've had a Gen 3 track bar and conversion bracket on the shelf now for over 10 years, originally bought for my 3500 but never got around to it I've been getting more and more ~~~~ed off with steering wander on my 2500 recently so decided to bite the bullet today and fit the 3rd gen bar and bracket as there is a tad of wear in the ball joint end as per usual. Axle end bolt seized solid in the steel sleeve in the bush then stripped the welded nut in the steel plate keeper GGGRRR, ended up drilling the bolt out, luckily I got it just right and didn't even damage the bush sleeve or the bolt holes in the axle bracket. All off and on the floor ready for tomorrow Got to find a replacement bolt and make a new captive nut tomorrow but it looks like at first glance that a 3rd gen bar has a bigger bolt at the axle end anyway will know better tomorrow when it's light. Job should have taken a couple of hours max, took 6 hours to drill the bolt and split the ball joint, slowly slowly catchee monkey, no broken drills, smack in the centre of the bolt and to make matters worse just as I'd gone past the point of no return the phone rings and a job on a bobcat skid steer 45 miles away... oh well that can wait till truck is done