wil440

I just took a look at your first code number and don't forget you don't need a DRB to check voltages, a voltmeter is fine, in fact a voltmeter would be preferred as that will not lie, if necessary spoon into the back of any plugs carefully with a paperclip unwound or better still your voltmeter spoons if you have them, this gives you a volt out point without disconnecting the sensor just make sure the clip does not short out to anything else I.E if checking the 5 volt supply make sure the paper clip does not short to ground/anything metal while testing, when testing grounds just check for 0 ohms or damn close to a good ground, if everything looks ok don't forget to do the wiggle test (this is actually a Caterpillar named test believe it or not) this is while measuring, move all wiring around, this will check bad connections or broken wires within the sheath.

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/ Scroll down to your code and follow the steps, I just sorted out a map code on mine, was voltage too low, so as per the code I checked 5volt sensor supply, all good at 4.9v, checked sensor return voltage and this stayed at 2. something volts ( I forget ) but it didn't change no matter the rpm or boost. Mine was the Map sensor

I ran my 5th wheel braking battery charge line out under the hi/low boot/surround, I just made sure it was secured and in conduit to protect it from chaffing

Once you get some of it sorted out my friend there is nothing quite like it, I've had a 3500 gas 5.9 for maybe 13 years or so now, never had a problem with it touch wood, it does drive smoother than my cummins but it hasn't got the towing power or the MPG

I'm not sure a draw straw is necessarily a Airdog part, I ordered mine at the same time as my assassin mechanical pump, I even wonder if the instructions are AD. As I said earlier I'm a heavy plant mechanic and I'm much happier the Dodge stuff is gone from the basket, simple tube down to the bottom of the tank, no sock no filter nothing, filters are added further up the frame where they can be got to without dropping the tank or moving the bed. If one was to look over a 2nd gen truck please tell me which part or parts you think Dodge got right, yes the shape is good but rust is a killer, axles, transfer case and engine don't count as that is not dodge, the rest right out of the showroom was crap given that the engine timescales are proven 1 mill miles. It is down to the aftermarket which does actually put these trucks right and forums like this one, anything Mopar has not or does not have the aftermarket that the others have taken for granted at least they try, I've had stuff arrive here from the USA for my truck and to be fair the instructions leave a lot to be desired, par for the course Mr Don

mine didn't have the pump, I just ripped everything out of the basket as per the instructions, this didn't bother me as I never run it lower than 1/2 tank, the reason for this is I've spent 40 odd years working on heavy plant and it's drummed in not to run low on fuel due to night time condensation, and also an empty tank for me is £150 plus to fill, much better on the wallet to add £20 or £30 a time

If you didn't follow directions then neither did I, I had to cut mine as it comes too long

my gauge does not move at all until it's running then it comes up like the altimeter on a Saturn V ?? surely this cannot be a problem with the Fuel Boss, it apparently worked fine before, Fuel Boss, Assassin... etc, cause no start up problems for anyone

I was thinking about the old block mounted Fass that was on mine sorry

The return from the pump on mine just connects to the original supply steel line at the frame near drivers front wheel, no need to modify anything at the basket for the return, you are basically adding a supply line anyway so the original supply line is redundant so it's used for the return, this is on a DTT mechanical but the straw and it's pipework is the same, I have the instructions somewhere I can scan and let you have them if needed

sounds to me like you need a draw straw, this fits into the fuel basket while binning a whole lot of unneeded rubbish in that area, basically pop a hole in the top of the basket and using a supplied bulkhead fitting and the pickup tube you're good to go @dieselautopower has one for around $70 IIRC. did you get a new supply line from the basket with your A dog ? if so it should all be good with a DS

If the tap bit ok and actually tapped threads it will be fine, I used a little exhaust paste on mine to complete the seal no leaky no problem

it's close to 20 years since I had a 86 USA air force 2wd boat, neatly divided into 3 bed, cab, and bonnet so I'm a little hazy on how it all is on a 2wd

all the ball joints have a tapered angle which is what keeps them tight, my 3500 had a VERY bad worn taper on the right side hub to steering linkage Turning side to side not moving could be track bar or here in the UK it is called a panhard rod

My 3500 gasser I bought myself from someone up state NY back in 2004, it was used with welding and cutting gear on the back removing the mangled steel from the twin towers, it was shipped from New Jersey into Southampton UK, my wife and I drove down there to pick it up, I drove it back maybe 300 miles...... absolute death trap, easily a 2 lane wanderer (our lanes aren't your width) thing is before I bought it it was being used every day. Quite funny really as I got it moved to Poughkipsie (not the right spelling) and got it loaded with other stuff for friends and others that paid to have their stuff shipped, I spent a week there sorting it all out. It was supposed to come over in a container DOH....3500 rams do not fit in a shipping container Anyway when it got here it was a 100% death trap and cost me over £1500 to put it right but it was still a cheap truck and it does not owe me a penny

I have to do this on both mine, over here though a 3500 8ft bed is no smaller than most entire cars, at least my 2500 is 6ft bed so I just might find a paint shop that will do the bed

If it was 4wd I'd have said it has to be a drive shaft joint (not sure what you guys call that) or upper/lower ball joint 2wd it's either of these..... upper/lower control arms... or ball joints on these or mounting bolts/bushes to frame on these I read that you changed most parts.... are the tapers seated ok as in they were all the right taper angle ?? Here in the UK our vehicle test stations have pads that you drive onto, these pads are then moved side to side and front to back, tests all components to death and this will and does find any slack in anything

I'd second that, mine has not set any code relating to the heaters and they are disconnected from the battery

mine have been disconnected now for about 9 months all through the winter BUT I will add winters in the UK aren't or shouldn't be that cold in general compared to USA, seen maybe -6C as the coldest this last winter, truck started fine, tucked the cables underneath the battery hold down so If needed it's a quick reconnect and alls good

I used a 5 amp fuse and it hasn't blown yet but I do keep a selection of fuses in the truck anyway including 5 amp and 7.5amp

The DTT is a gear pump, everything plus a little more in the kit, as I said I added a draw straw and dropped the tank to do that, only thing I would say is test the mounting bracket to make sure it sits flat to the sump flat area and doesn't sit on the strengthening flange as mine did, easy enough to sort out with a small grinder or die grinder bit, I found one old post somewhere (not here) where a guy had the same problem but didn't notice it and pulled one sump thread due to the bracket sitting on the flange which effectively shortened the bolt and the amount of threads it had

It's a sticky at the very top of this particular part of the forum. I'd be checking for codes with a newish snap on scanner do you know anyone with one ? and see if that can communicate with ecm... WTS light is ecm though

When I got my truck the PO had just fitted a Fass pump that fits in the same place as the stock pump... I forget which Fass it was .. the cheapest. I noticed he hadn't fitted a fuel filter of any sort accept a pre pump canister filter similar to the old inline petrol filters, luckily it hadn't done no miles on the pump before I got it so I fitted a Caterpillar filter head and Cat filter and went bigger lines from the pump onwards, I then got a bumper pull TT which was around 11 to 12k lbs loaded, this was before I got a fuel pressure gauge (doh). I noticed that sometimes it would sort of cough for want of a better description when pulling hard so I spoke to @dieselautopower and got a fuel pressure gauge on it's way, very glad I did, fuel pressure was dropping too far and coincided with the cough. I did some more pipework before the pump and also used a Cat inline prefilter before the pump which is used on Cat excavators with the C13 engine so big enough for me this stopped the cough but I still wasn't overly happy with the fuel pressure so back to DAP and got a DTT mechanical pump and a quad The Cat filter I use is a 2 micron filter ultra high efficiency and is quite restrictive so I had to use the highest geared pulleys that came with the DTT pump, idle is 12 to 15 psi and max is 25 to 28 psi with the pressure spring cut a little shorter than it was as psi was a little high at max on the stock length with the high geared pulleys. The DTT pump mounting bracket didn't quite sit flat to the sump face but this could be stamping differences on the sump for all I know, I just reshaped the bracket slightly. I am more than happy with the DTT mechanical pump and my fuel pressure, I already had a fuel filter so didn't need or want to move from Cat filters, the DTT is cheaper than the fuel boss and this swayed my decision as import duty and tax into the UK always hurts. It came with lines and fittings and I added a draw straw I'm not knocking electrical fuel pumps I just decided a mechanical pump was for me, my fp goes up with rpm not down and I removed something electrical from an electrically challenged truck The point of this long post is whichever way mechanical or electrical it's best to do it right once.

Couple of things to add 1. I very lightly centre dotted where I needed to be to give the drill some help on starting 2. I'd suggest making sure the drill you use is sharp but preferrably not been resharpened or at least resharpened in a machine and not by hand. It is very difficult to get the point centred when sharpening by hand, if it's off centred it will drill bigger. Truck running btw

Drilled mine with cold engine but running and greased drill bit, got everything ready then started it, took no time at all maybe 2 or 3 minutes, didn't even melt the grease. Exhaust back pressure blows the chips out no problem