wil440

Wow. Just took a look at diesellaptops, IF their combined software covers what it says it does then there would be nothing like it here in uk and cost isn't bad at 8k ish

Thats what I'm looking for as I don't think here the local garage would be bothered to even plug in on a american vehicle even if they had something that would work partly due to not being able to pick the phone up to get parts in 2 hours to further rip customers off. I do have Cat Et and SIS at work but struggle withour Volvo stuff as diagnostic software not leased here at least for excavators and dumptrucks.

I'm considering getting something from snap on but here in uk it has to be 18.2 software or above, before 18.2 our software only had generic US capability and the domestic was not included, they must have decided at 18.2 it was easier to just do one release, does the verus/18.2 + read more than engine codes as I have an old Bowser Electronics program on an old laptop and that will read all engine codes, certainly reads more than a Snap On MT 2500

It would have to be a lot less than £6750 for me to jump nearer 5k hows it compare to your prices,done 90k miles and just passed mot test

I think It would be a quad if I decided to get any. Where in uk are you ? Im in leicestershire just off J23 M1. Like driving in teeny weeny town sometimes. also got a 3500 and thats hard. Car parks are a no either height barriers are too low or a jobsworth traffic warden handing out on the spot fine for tyres outside the bay markings or cars park so close you cant open the doors. Eu/jap trucks sold here are a joke, at the mopar euronats here a few years ago I bet a load of eu pickup owners that if they tied 2 of them to the back of my 3500 I'd be able to drag them round the carpark like balls on chains..... no one stepped up ? when parked behind all uk cars/pickups the only thing NOT visible out of the side mirrors is the chrome grill on the ram?

I use CAT filters and heads and change whenever I can, but that's way less than the 500 hrs recommended CAT interval, I don't buy filters though

Spotted a 96 3500 quad 12v 4x4 for sale on fleabag over here in Scotland for £6750 has the usual electrical gremlins like windows not working, door locks not working.... biggie is trans not changing right, seller dropped from £7500 on 2nd day of listing due to someone pointing out it will probably need a trans rebuild, don't think it will come up in searches from the USA due to seller not adding international.

Informative thread, certainly made my mind up on which tuner but still out on whether i need one in the first place. Quad = £700 to £750 landed in UK easy due to shipping, import duty and VAT at 20% on the whole lot Truck = bone stock except for BHAF and a fuel pump (forgot which... before me, might be FASS). truck is auto and only feels as though it's on it in lockup, more load the happier it is but most of the time it's not in lockup, at the moment I tow nothing, I don't pay for fuel and use the truck on a sunday if I'm lucky, I have no need to break anything on the truck, for one it will always be expensive to fix here in the UK and for two I fix stuff 70 hours a week at work so I prefer not to at home. Thats about the downsides Upsides... not too many as far as I can see (for me right now) 1.valet tune.... but most people here are scared ******less of it, even MOT tester won't get in it and by law he's supposed to 2. I may get more MPG 3. I would be able to see fuel pressure, boost, trans temp and EGT as It has no gauges at present not sure on any other upsides for me I think the plan is fuel system front to back, I have fitted a CAT diesel filter head but need to change it for a CAT head that uses a radial seal filter with water trap as thats better than what I have now which is a flat faced seal and no water trap then remount the fuel pump at the tank instead of the block and go bigger over standard on the fuel lines then deal with the trans BEFORE any tuners. As for gauges I have a CAT engine test panel with all the gauges inc boost,vac, oil,fuel, trans temp etc all on hard lines but it's just not the right shape for the truck, could go old school Mopar and stick em in a row on scuttle panel in front of screen OUTSIDE LOL One thing I will add the ££ isn't a problem the tax is, thoughts anyone ?? and for reference where I live I can drive on roads where both wheels are on the grass with the road just in the middle,

Yes we got to Lake Louise,didn't see Moraine, went on cable car to sulphur mountain looking down on a tiny Banff Springs hotel where we were staying. Pity it was only 3 nights in Banff as there was a lot we didn't get to see. Would be nice to do Banff for a couple of weeks then alaska to fairbanks and Kodiak island

Yes been there..... thats been took from the National Park building across the bow river bridge, one word.... WOW, the whole 2 weeks couldn't have been better, If I'd have been 20 years younger the visa/emigration would have been filled out before we came home, didn't do a lot for the aurgument for rv or trailer as it was about 50/50, one thing that you can't miss is everywhere is set up for recreation and everywhere is so clean

All good thanks to Chris. Replacement CTM arrived last week, was in the country the week before but customs are not known for rushing, 2 new batteries fitted to truck, CTM working perfectly, Chris even got me a spare remote, fitted the CTM I was using back into my 3500 today, had most of the morning today on faults with the rest of the truck (2500), previous owners attempt at reverse lights was blowing the rear sidelight fuse, pretty sure you guys call them "park lights". here we cannot have the rear lights standard as we have to have orange indicators so we use orange bulbs in the 2 reverse light holders and wire them to the indicator feed as we also can't have flashing red lights to the rear, I'm sure there is a year cutoff but I'd say 50's or 60's be ok but not 1998. So our reverse lights are a bolt on which most are poor installations, previous fool done my 2500 with telephone /network wire, not very flexible or strong hence the blowing fuses as the supply for the reverse light relay had been piggybacked off of the supply to the light switch for the rear lights, One job fixed and one more added to the list, when I bought it in January this year it was a dog, 3 brakes were sticking badly, lights not working, door locks not working, seatbelt light on, throttle pedal codes, no fuel filter fitted at all, but for less than 100 miles, now Cat filter head and filter, soon to go full Cat water trap filter , I bought it because I have a 3500 4x4 petrol which I don't use so had a full truck of parts except engine/trans and also I used to be the UK dealer for FBO Systems in Oregon which specializes in Mopar so I have a pile of parts for the 3500, I probably have 100 sets of front brake pads 50 caliper pistons, calipers, caliper seal kits (don't ask why :)) so brakes took me a day... no cost I have now got it to the point where a couple of tiny faults and it's all good, reverse lights are one and seatbelt light on is the other. Then the work starts. Again.... big thanks to Chris O and this forum

And I'm in Canada at the moment so no use, I do use a good diesel shop for work I'll see what they say when back

Never seen ash on injector like that but then again no one here adds oil of any kind to diesel. I think its rather odd that these trucks were designed and built in the usa and thats the major market but the diesel isn't really good enough

Injectors always are sooted on the tips and clear tracks will be seen across the tips away from each hole, you have a problem if there isn't a clearish track away from each hole as thats a blocked hole, also touch the tips with nothing certainly not a wire brush, injection pressures are so high atomized fuel would cut through carbon on outside of tip like a hot knife through butter, if a hole is blocked it's more than likely blocked from the inside by metal particles

Over here the actual cost of fuel is surprisingly cheap, maybe 0.30p per litre or something like that the rest goes straight to our money grabbing government as tax which is fuel duty plus vat at 20% so in effect we pay tax on a tax.

Filled up today at £1.33 per litre which is £5.98 per uk gallon. £80 is about 3/4 of a tank. I'd say £130 plus to fill from empty. More for 3500 as tank is bigger

You should see the gummed carbon in smaller cat engines that have this system, routinely blocks a 1/4" tube on the 925 and 930 loaders and the egr valves just stop due to carbon one reason I got a old gen 2, and here in uk I've got all bases covered gen 2 diesel and gen 2 petrol as the uk swings one way and then the next. Maybe use a good heat resistant silicon, cummins do one, it's silver IIRC or whats the limits on your gorilla snot ? would that stick them on Did you also say it was only exhaust seals ?, as I said earlier I've never seen intake seals damaged, intake valves always run way cooler and the seals life reflects this, I read your truck specs and I'd say it's a trade off for more power, my truck is as left the factory with 154k and I'd be interested to see what the condition of it's exhaust valve seals are. One a slightly different note I'm sure I've seen valve guide seals held down by a spring clip that pushed into 2 slots in the lower part of the seal and located in 2 slots either side of the guide, this thinking about it must have been years ago on either a very large Ruston Bucyrus or Ruston generator or ladder crane engine, worthless information I know but I've seen it somewhere

Doesn't look like there's going to be any puddling around those valves though but the later seal/guide looks like it would stay in place longer, is there a shallow groove around the guide? I wonder if the newer seal has a spring that pulls into that groove for positive retention, also would there be machine shop capability to remove the lip over there, probably wouldn't be here, would you just change the guides ??

I did my first post on here July 22nd, in a little over 3 weeks I have saved money from not making bad purchases for my truck, I was looking at a K&N intake kit for £170 over here, 5 minutes on here stopped that idea dead, BHAF going to be fitted, also had to use the drivers door lock/window switch from my 3500 as passenger window wouldn't work on the original switch, was going to buy a used one off of ebay.com (not available here), 5 minutes on here, cut down strips of wifes nail filer board and switch is good to go, then Chris O has helped me with a CTM something I definetly wouldn't be able to have done here....

any puddling is going to depend on shape of head around valve and distance of valves from an oil drain, check to see how fast you can pour oil onto head and how fast it runs away from valves ? Wow thats easy... was wondering what the ballon was for

Also it will usually be exhaust valve seals due to heat, very rare for intakes to lift up or get brittle, I've also never seen a valve stem seal retained by the valve spring, although if a seal hat a steel flange I suppose it could sit underneath a spring shim if there was a recess for it to sit in, also the springs can't be a tight fit over the seal as that would destroy the seal very quickly due to movement and resonance I'd say well I've never seen that, there are only 2 ways and 2 types as far as I know, umbrella/flat disc or pushed over the guide, the best solution would be a seal that does go over the lip with a spring retainer that is below the lip, now that would take some pulling off, seals would still fail though due to temps. PS hows the quote function work....... I can build a Cat C32 diesel easy...... quote function has had me at it

Before climate change and emissions most big diesel valve stem seals were basically flat rubber discs that deflected most of the oil that comes from rocker and rocker tip lubrication away from the stem, the stem used to require some lubrication, I'd think now valve stem and guide material is improved to allow for reduced oil and higher temps, even engines with a positive retained seal would mostly pop the seals off the stems after a few thousand hours due to the rubber material going brittle

No not good at all but as soon as these machines are removed from inside the building the problem goes away, owners are not happy as machines are sold as waste spec, Cat should have added another few words to the sales blurb " waste spec but only outside" from what I remember it got a lot of cat engineers, designers, tech people off of their chairs

Cat have a huge problem with that system. Machines working inside closed buildings on waste handling, as the waste heats up/rots it releases a gas this gas reacts with the adblue inside the dpf which breaks down the material the dpf is made of it then drops to bits and chops the tips off of 2 sensors at 2k for the pair, dpfs lasting 1000hrs nearly to the hour. Worked for cat dealer on field service up till jan 18, so changed loads all paid for by cat

Over here government sees all transport as a tax generating tool so not much fact is actually used also all my vehicles can't drive into the capital without paying a conjestion charge.... not that i'd want to anyway,dangerous dump it is