2500ctd

Smarty side as in the "brain'? Mine is a loose connector on the actual display. Anytime the screen locks I just unplug/replace/repeat. Who do I contact? My understanding is you're saying the actual module has bad solder, not the display? If so it only figures I would be in the other boat.... Of course its when I'm in Norman, Ok and leaving tomorrow to head back to WA that I loose my gauges. Anyone near by that I can borrow a display to reprogram the truck. I have it turned up a bit and keep an eye on EGT's. :) Flying blind I would like to lower it a bit. I tried the not use so much pedal. Doesn't work for me.

Well screen is dead just flashes the red led. Since now my truck is locked in its program and I no longer have any gauges or anyway to reprogram my truck. I need just the display.

What combo of twins matches the limits of a stock cp3?

Been playing with the smarty. Rail pressure on wild. Most timing as well. Tq-2. Spools way faster. Less smoke as well. Is rail pressure still within safe limits on wild? Most so far has been 25K. I ordered my turbo. S475 92/1.10. Next part will be a gated 2nd gen manifold. Unless a gated one is not needed?

It would give me an excuse to get a bigger oxy/acy set depends on the guesstimates from a body shop.

Played tag with a telephone pole. Light grazing. However front mount for rad support is bent along with some tweaked areas around it. Debating on getting it straightened or cut it off and build bumper mounts. What would be the best way repair it. Gonna try to attach pics.

I bumped 1400 towing this weekend. Trailer…around 6K. I backed the timing down to #2. Not sure how it affected the temps as I don't have anything to compare it too. Also back in my VP days, it was not good to tow heavy with a smarty program that had added timing. On the CR's is advanced timing during towing just as bad or are the cr's more tolerable of timing vs the vp trucks? i really think I need more air. Max boost so far was 36lbs. The 351 has to be out of its efficiency range at those levels. On my 01, higher revs lowered the egts. Not so much in the 05. There is a window where higher revs did lower temps but past that they didn't lower. The effects of the small 351 exh housing. Another nod for twins.

For the 03-07 #1 is the greatest timing. I had to double check as it's the lowest timing on VP trucks. I turned down the timing on my 01 when I towed heavy. Didn't realize I was running the most timing on the 05 after all. Lol.

Oops. I'm on #5. I normally run on 3 boost hasn't gone up from 3 to 5. However isn't 35psi. Actually outside the efficiency of the 351?

I will look into the UDC more. Didn't before since the box tunes worked enough for me. More reading, I'm going with the stocker over a s475. However I'm going to spring for the 92mm w/ 1.10 a/r. Don't think I need the race cover. However, added costs will be a 2nd gen manny. I loved the way my 2nd gen sounded. Vs the add a turbo 3rd gen kits. Hopefully in about a month I'll be ordering the turbo. Then it's gathering parts. I'll fab the piping as that seems to be the spendy bits. Weather getting warmer, playing on the on ramps, highest I hit was 1430ish with 33-34psi with a haze during the day. I think I need more air. Smarty is on sw3 as the clutch is starting to slip. I know. I want the twins first then the clutch. Lol. That way the twins will feel even faster after I do the clutch. ??

Doing some more reading. A single cp3 is good for my planned hp. As well as a stocker/475 is more then enough. Not gonna tow at 600. Well, maybe I'll try it once. ? I have the smarty touch now and again more reading hp tuners? Is pretty good. Didn't think efi live worked on early cr's. On the 475 I'm reading to go for the 83/1.10 or the 92 wheel. Which do you think will be better. Not going for dyno numbers but more fun on the street. 600-650 should be a riot.

power goal...depends on what I can make. I do need to be able to tow, but being this is a manual, I have read that helps in spooling bigger turbos compared to an auto. That being said I'm leaning towards more performance. On a VP I read the 62/475 combo is close to not being able to tow heavy. For a CR that combo isn't a problem, supposedly. Heavy for me is 12-15K. Not often but when the need arises I do need the capability. If I was going to put a number out...600. From similar combos, my 01 was around 400hp. It was fun...at first. You know how that goes...not enough.

How much horse can a single CP3 produce? I've read about running a 464 in a twin setup. Mainly being its a s400 frame. My personal limit is I dont want to have to run a hotrod VP or dual CP3s. Being realistic, I shouldnt have to in order to have enough power and still be a usable truck. IMO How do the S480's run in a twin setup? Too laggy for towing? On the '05. What is a decent twin setup? From reading, I think 600-650 hp seems streetable in a CR. I think a VP would be a little more rowdy at 650hp. Still seems the wild card is the 05. I'll keep my current plan for the 01. Only thing is the turbo is sittng there staring at me, and it could be awhile before I get to the 01.

Guys, need some input, which will help me decide which way to go from here. Try to follow.... I have an 01 Ram that is sittng until I fix the front end. Body damage and front frame rail is tweaked, deciding on how to fix that still... Anyways, Truck has a HTT 62/65/12, This turbo was destined to be a top turbo for this truck. I got an 05 Ram, since I wrecked the 01...Currently just a Smarty on it. I'm getting twins. Most bang for my buck: 05: I say take the 62/65/12 from my 01 and install it on a 2nd gen exhaust manifold, over something like a s475, or could I go to an S480? Limiting thing on the 05, is I dont want to have to run dual CP3's. How far can a twin with a 62 top take me? If possible Say maybe break into the 700hp range? IIRC the 62/65/12 should be wasted, if so, and if used in a set of twins, is that gate enough flow? Reason being, I'm doing a 2nd gen manifold swap as well as a gated manifold. Or down the road...buy a 2nd gen T4 gated manifold, get an S480 to run with the stocker, then later on switch to a S464/S480. (more of a dream) 01: the 62 was initally for the truck with a s475 under it. I've read stock SO VP's usually run outta fuel with a twin setup like that. However, I now have an 05 HE351 turbo that I could run over an S475. Been outta the 2nd gen realm, what numbers do they get out of an he351/s475 on a VP truck?

Not much help but during a rad swap on mine I noticed the frame side of the cross was cut to allow that cross member to come out. They basically cut the front wall of the frame. Makes me wonder what had to be done to the truck. I also found the driver side engine through bolt loose. as in just the nut was hand threaded on the engine would lift the bolt out of the cradle. How do you spread the fenders apart? Hi-lift jack between the rails?

Went to adjust my parking brake and found out they don't hold to well covered in oil. Go figure right? However no oil on the wheel or tire. I'm not 100% its leaking now as it could have been replaced and not cleaned off. Anyone replaced these seals before?

Yes I think the good is you stopped driving it when you did. Well perfect time to upgrade as well. What type of boroscope do you have> I bought a cheap harbor freigt one that doesn't take pics, and even the optics aren't as clear as yours

thanks. Newest one I thought was the 'H More searching after your number found this: http://allmoparparts.com/2500-3500-mopar-steering-upgrade-52122362al-complete-p-4470.html Seems to have all the current parts.

Was just reading that. Tip other person gave was to reinstall the bolt facing the other way to prevent having to drop the down pipe again.

not too hijack but what is the current number for the upgrade? Also where did you get it? I haven't seen an easy either to use the old style damper. I need to upgrade mine as well. I'm in the market as well to upgrade

Understand as well. Truck been running fine last couple days. I dumped the diesel out of containers I used to drain the tank and the last bit of fuel I poured into a dry gallon water jug and there was about 1/2 of whiteish/milky crap on the bottom. Also the rest of the diesel I checked stayed cloudly. Only bit of diesel that cleared up was in the pitcher that I posted earlier in the thread. Going back to a bad batch of fuel. Only thing makes sense to me. As a last ditch before drastic measures I got one more fca with the cleaned out tank and fresh diesel and it ran fine. It did need a bit of time to learn again. Idle want stable at first. Activating the high idle seemed to make it learn quicker. Im at a loss as to the actual cause.

I like that bike. You can see mine through the cleaner fuel. Lol This pic is when the truck was down and needed to finish rebuilding the forks since only thing left working was my bicycle which is leaning against the truck 03 Buell Firebolt.

It does sound like crap. Same as if the fca was unplugged. Checked the battery voltage with it running. 14.99. Within .25v of the smarty display when I actually compared them. So so it seems to be fixed. As a last ditch measure, picked up one more fca. 4 total. ? At first the pressure has trouble stabilizing. Was jumping +/- 1000psi at least. Engaged the high idle let it run and it finally settled down. At first even revving it would hang. However seems fixed now. My idea: the other fca's were ran with the old tank of diesel. As I posted I dropped the tank cleaned it out and ordered a fuel rail. The fuel in the tank I used to drain it initially is still very cloudy. Like the pics in the beginning of this thread. So wth the new rail and just under 5 gal it started, rail pressure maxed. Then I heard it settle. Watch the smarty as the rail pressure dropped to normal…and continued to drop till it quit. Hoping 4 gal isn't enough. Gauge didn't even register. Add 5 more gal. Started and max pressure but it ran. 6-6.5 psi at the cp3 with my new filter setup. Got the new fca today and all good. After it 'learned'. So I am back to thinking I had a bad tank of diesel that killed the fca. I more then likely didn't need the rail. Which I will keep the old one. However since one of the banjos showed corrosion, not a bad idea to install clean parts. Anyone want to test my old fca? I would put it back in to see but I'm paranoid now and it's nice to have it running again. Boy is it slow. I got used to riding my bike. Lol.

The higher voltage might be cause the batteries were a tad weak however the truck always seemsbto charge high. According to the gage. I haven't thrown a dvm on it yet. Top picture shows the actual rp vs rpd. ThAT is something else I don't understand. It is obviously higher then desired yet no codes.

Nogo. Same as before. Rail pressure maxes after starting. So its a new rail with pressure valve and pressure sensor. Maybe try another fca? At a loss now. Only code is low voltage to grid heater which I know about that issue.