2500ctd

Cool thanks. Working on a side project for the high idle. More of an auto setup. I will share as I make progress.

Got a question on the high idle. can you activate the high idle with the key on already or do the switches have to be set before the key is turned on?

Ok thanks. Makes sense on the air. I can see a big prblem with a lot of air/cloudy fuel from emulsified air in it. I did go ahead and turn the reg up as it started fluctuating on the highway. would bounce from 10 to 5 psi. I would jump on it real quick, just to basically puff smoke out and pressure would go back up. Its running about 13.5 psi now and doesnt drop really at wot either.

When does the fuel heater kick in? Also Mopar, the link about the write up concerning air in diesel fuel diesnt work for me. Been reading up on lift pumps and found out about air in diesle fuel is bad. I have a walbro 392 with about 130K on it and still running good. My bypass reg is going out, so I starte9 searching lift pumps to see what I should set the fp too.

Oh yes. When I first got my smarty I played with it on 9 for a bit. After the tranny went. mainly from towing heavy, I started thinking about the reduced pedal travel in relation to the TV pressure, so I backed the smarty to like #3. Until the REVO software came out. Which I believe that software, negates the other programs as you can bascially make it do what you want. Unless the other programs have some features that arent adjustable through the REVO. Anyhow, I turn up duration and timing and leave tm on 3. To me it has the best pedal feel. REminds me havent played with the tm since the new turbo and injectors, might hafta go play for a bit with the tm, just to see how much fun it is.

I did kill my stock tranny. Have a goerend tranny now, and have moved cross country a couple times. Normal weight is around 15K so gross is roughly 23-24K. Slightly modded truck too and no issues. I actually already have just over 100K on the built tranny.

Oops. Was always told manuals didnt have it. Only to save the autos.

Any updates? For a valve what about adapting a heater control valve? Vacuum controlled, just have to test it and see how'the fuel temps match up. Maybe even an old style cable operated temp valve. My 89 RC has one. Just an idea.

TM olny applies to auto. Your TM is your right foot and or a slipping clutch. That ix the one thing I dont like about the Smarty is that it shortens the overall pedal travel. Well electrically no physically. I have mine on 3 just because of the feel. I have good tranny just dont want to kill it from low line pressure/tv pressure. I was hoping the TV lever might have been keyed different because of no TM. Or actually they would have probably keyed the newer trucks with tm different. If they did at all. So it is something we are stuck with it seems.

I dont think they are directly linked as well. Just want the non tq linited truck tranny stuff that way I can run the tq on min levels (least tq managment) on the smarty without having to worry about shortening the clutches and bands' life in the tranny.

Cool. With my tranny and tq mgnt back to stock levels the shift points are high. Well I guess normal at. About 2k normal driving. I like the tq on 3. Shifts around 1500 with my style driving. I wanted to see about putting the vb or at least the tv pressure control items from a non torque managed truck into mine. On a 67 coronet I had the tv linkage come off and I had no idea what was wrong. I took it out and rebuilt it in the hobby shop on base. Lol I definitely know about that dam linkage now. Especially after the rebuild I still didn't hook it up. Found it the next day and wow. That thing burned me good. Lol

Anyone can get part numbers to the tv valve or a vb between an 01 and 99 truck?

I have recently been driving my Ramcharger. Mainly cause I live close to work and the diesel doesnt even move off the cold peg on the gage. Well had a trip to make this weekend and dusted off the diesel. Sat for about a week. Of course it stalled, and it was the worse it has ever done this. Even blipping the throttle didnt keep it running. I did not keep the throttle down wit hit in gear and on the brakes. I forgot about dropping it right into gear as well. However while fighting it I thought maybe fuel temp might be another factor. One thing, i drove maybe 50 feet. stopped put it into reverse and it almost stalled. (I actually forgot about the stalling until it almost did again) same thing putting it back into D to get going. That was with a full tank and a bottle of STP in there too. I did just install some 7x.10 injectors (about 150hp, in place of the 275's) did a few test runs and it never stalled. Filled up the tank and the stalling started. About 4 years ago it did this once or twice during the winter in Or. I had the 275's and since it never did it again never gave it much thought. Just another idea and some more info on this. So any one have a fuel temp gage?

Does your tranny go into gear as quick? Meaning does the TQ need to refill a bit, thus having just a bit less drag on the engine? MY older mopars, I would have to run the tranny in N for at least a min or 2 to get the tranny to engage in gear. Just a thought. Now I havent tried that with mine yet.

I understand how tm works. In a thread on CR iirc "best year to own" it was mentioned that 98.5/99 had no tm from the factory. Are those how are those trannys able to handle that. Were they the 47re or rh? Guess I am thinking if the tm is decreased it will act like the old style 727 when the throttle linkage came disconnected except for the early shifting part. Trying to under the effects of reducing tm on trucks equipped with it from a transmission point of view. --- Update to the previous post... Another question are the trannys with no tm different than the trannys with tm?

First off hey all! First post and coming over from CR. Seems to be the more techy minds here. Ok my question is with tm and the smarty. Hopefully I can explain in words what's going on in my mind. Best way for me to describe smarty is it seems to shorten the pedal distance for the ECM to determine wot. My concern is with the auto trannies. Being that more power/tq is produced at less pedal movement, would the tranny not suffer from less tv pressure meaning less line pressure and lower clutch holding ability? The first years of 24v did not have tm so how did the transmissions deal with this? Is the bellcrank for the tv cable different or the lever on the tranny indexed different or is the vb valved different? I am running my smarty on 3 with the tm at 3 because of this. Just changing the tm levels the tranny shift points do change. Any ideas or am I off my rocker? Sorry for the long first post.