2500ctd

On the spped thing, an idea, wire in a frequency multiplier to make the truck think its going faster. Could probably even get an adjustable one in case a basic 2X would casue issues. However I am pretty sure the cluster would indicate the wrong speed too as its can bus. I would love to get in there and tweak the ecm. Maybe even use a wideband to help smooth out the timing/fueling tables. Saw the tables from a CR and iirc they were all over the place. Probably Dodge's way of meeting the epa crap.

Yea been reevaluating my goals. Looking at a S472/475. Hoping for around 600 and still be able to be a useful tow rig. I checked your site and I swear before the 400's werent listed as single turbos, but I see differently now. Can you get different exh sides like the mentioned 1.1 housing?

Just wondering what miles you at at now? CLuster still stuck at 999,999?

I had a 77 Newport with a 440 back when I was bullet proof. Saw the fan spin excessively and the car also ran hot. So while running I grabbed the fan. It stopped in my hands and I could actaully spin it opposite of the engine. This happened again but in our 89 Ramcharger. Actually it overheated while idling. Getting older my built in armor plating fades and did not use my bare hands to test the fan this time around. It was bad and I could keep it from spinning with the engine running.

I have a rolling smoke diesel 5" as well. Wife got it for me for xmas . Started with a the stock 3" straight piped then to a 4" didnt really like the sound of it. Too "glass pack" for me. Only went with the 5" for the lower deeper tone. Now it is probably just me but it does feel like it spools a little bit faster.

I started with RV's and the smarty on an HY. Worked as a good all around truck. Just slow...:tongue:Added my 62 turbo first, dyno'd around IIRC 285hp and ~600tq. Since then I have added 150hp injectors. Around 110 more than the RV's (loose calculator)I would like to say I am around 350hp. This is with just hard parts. Only thing I have is a smarty. No pump tapping here. That will come on after the s475....Cant bring my self to get tapped yet. According to dyno threads with a tuner I could be around 500hp.

I have always though this too. Get rid of the Dodge software/limitations and run the true Cummins software. Its been a while but I heard you could adjust a bunch of features as well. Almost like the EFI live for the CR's

My truck has been like that for awhile. Cant maintain 190. So I made some winterfronts for all 4 openings out of smoked plexiglass with carraige bolts holding them on. Biggest pain was filing out the holes square so the bolts wouldnt turn. Since diesels like temp and I moved to a twon that is about 4miles across, I dont drive the truck much in the winter as it doesnt warm up and short trips while never getting up to temp are bad for the engine. For now its for the longer trips where it can get up to as hot as it will, until I can swap the tstat out. Made templates out of poster board and cut the 'glass with a dremel.

All OEM systems return fuel in the basket. That is how I redid my fuel system in my Ramcharger. Not diesel....yet. Now with the diesel the issue comes does the temp of the fuel matter that much, as pulling from the fuel that just went up to the engine and soaked up some heat from the VP44 will be making another trip shortly back to the VP:stirthepot:

Thought I did this once, after a drunk weekend in mexico. Dont eat from the street food carts in Tijuana. Tasted good drunk though........ Good thing I was on a sub tender and were not getting underway anytime soon.

I paid about 27K for mine. That included the rolled over loan from a Dakota I had. Back then I figured it was worth it being a diesel, it would outlast any gas truck I had so I would be aheaf in the long run. So far so good!I perfer no tow mirrors. Mine have the little mirrors and I am grateful too. Why? Mine were power and heated. I got a set a 3rd gen power tow mirrors, a set of 2nd gen tow mirrors the wife bough me, and make my powered/heated 2nd gen tow mirrors. So I perfer the smaller mirrors ONLY if they are already power/heated That way the switch and wiring is already there. Well at least the switch it. :smart:I still park in 2 spots in the back of where ever I go. She has ding and dents but I try hard to prevent anymore. Guys at work give me crap cause I park on the end away from everyone else.

Sorry if a repost....... http://www.clearrefining.com/availability.html

From the dead......any info on this?

Wow that simple? LOL Thanks!

With the smarty and my rv injectors with the 62/65/12 turbo, I put down 285hp/605tq.Only thing I did so far was swap in some 150hp injectors. I have no idea what my hp now is but those injectors are around a 110hp increase over the rv's. Math wise.I run the revo software on mine. IIRC the duration is 4, timing 4 and tq 3 with the main software at 3. I figured with the revo it makes all the other softwares the same since all parameters can be adjusted. I only think this because noone can tell me otherwise so far. Rumor mil has it they are working on more VP programs on the smarty. Be nice if they can mimic pump tapping without having to physically tap the wire.

Would be good to find a rebuilder and then ask them who they recommend to get a pump through. Since it seems they rebuild to different specs for their cusstomers.

So what does 2.5 mean in puller lingo? I always hear it havent figured it out yet.

Is that resistor green, blue orange? 56Kshould be red, red, red iirc.

That is news to me. I thought only the CR's raised rail pressure. Well not really a rail in our case. Just injection pressure the same with duration and timing altered.

So which is the best oil to apply to who's best battery? I killed my stock batteries years ago by taking care of them....I took them out cleaned them off with the hose and some purple cleaner, and reinstalled with some spray on terminal covering. Oh Well. Threw in some red tops and its been good ever since, well now its seems to not be spinning as fast either. Had the redtops since 05 so not too bad I guess. So how do you check the acid on maint free batteries? The ones I seem to see are sealed? I remember by dad's old batteries. Each cell had a little screw on cap and that cool looking acid pitcher for the batteries. Had a nozzle that opened when you insterted it into the battery cell opening. I wonder if I still have his old acid tester...Tested the specific gravity of the acid with the floating gauge.

They were the running price of the others. I did find a set on Amazon though. In case anyone else needs a set. Trailer lights $31.08 shipped.

Need to replace my car hauler's lights. Anyone know of a good deal on some led lights? So far cheapest I found are from easternmarine. Trailer is just an 18' open deck car hauler http://www.easternmarine.com/optronics-led-trailer-light-kit-tll-9rk

I dont have much luck with my truck in the snow. Last year moved up to WA. Was out and about and started getting more snow. Now granted it was packed snow and then fresh snow, mixed with ice. In drive the minute I released the brake the back tires started spinning. Almost got stuck in a parking lot as the truck would either push the front tires or just spin the back. Got back home and went out and walked. Saw 3 almost accidents while waiting to cross. I did drive the truck in all the snow till that day. IIRC snow started to melt then that nite went below freezing, then snowed the following day. hard packed snow, ice and more snow is slick. I needed 4 legs that day. Was funny watching my dogs slide on ice. First time for them too! :lmao:On the roads it was ok. The non plowed areas it sucked. Had to drive my Ramcharger. Even that in 2wd was still sliding. Locked in 4wd no sliding at all.They just sprayed stuff on the road. Not sure if its de icer or anti icer? Going 40 I can get the back tires to spin. I do it on purpose, I must admit. Bought the wife a 98 Jeep 5.9 GC. has the np249 which is a full time 4wd. 4 wheel drifts are fun!

Does adjusting them to 18 an 8 really help? I did mine at~160 and did stock specs. I'm at 245K now and might tighten em up a bit if it helps. Havent really found a definate answer on this.

Just make sure the one is higher than the other, also if the heights cant be far enough apart to ensure a constant supply, maybe a check vale to prevent the water from sloshing front tank to back tank.