2500ctd

You guys ask all the questions I have and cant answer. I don't have a lift pump gauge on it yet. However I did order the parts for a test gauge setup along with the miller tools to test the return rates. Its an in-tank lift pump. Hoping I don't have to pull the module but thinking I should anyways since the truck is down. My initially thoughts about why the first FCA was a bad batch of fuel, as about a month ago the water in fuel light on. Never had that happen before. I did recently change where I filled up as well. As soon as the special fitting come in Ill get to testing the return rates. I hope I find something wrong. There is a 4 part video on youtube about testing the hpcr system. Anyone know of any other tests? Nothing in the factory FSM. I might have to get the diesel supplement.

Well the problem did evolve into an fca. Except now I would be putting in my third fca. Gotta be something else. Problem started as a hiccup during shifting. Got worse to where it is undrivable. Swapped in a new ca. Truck ran till I switched fuel filters. Won't maintain fuel rail pressure. Sometimes after startup rail pressure hangs around 21k. When it hits idle, trying to take off pressure drops to around 1500. It will normally catch and not stall. Swapped in another fca. Ran fine then later after the testdrive, went to go back out. Truck doing the same thing. I really doubt I got 2 bad fca in a row. Only running a smarty touch with egt.

Starting to have a dead pedal symptom. When I shift, sometimes the pedal goes dead, no engine response for a second or 2, then it comes back to life. Initially it started as a hiccup. Would just be noticeable between shifts. No codes, new symptom is first start today was rough, low idle, ran ~5 seconds then died. Started back up with no issues, minus the hiccup/dead pedal issues. Around a year ago had the FCA go out. Replaced it ran fine. This winter I have had to plug the block heater in since the batteries are going out. Or else they almost don't have enough juice to start the truck after cycling the grid heater. Yea I have one bad grid heater solenoid so only running on one heater now as well. Another thing that I finally tied into voltage is once it gets cold enough for the grid heaters, is that when the grid heater cycles off, and battery voltage comes back up the dash dings and some warning lights flash. I have the smarty touch and desired charging voltage is 15V. Is that a little high? Trying to figure out how to display the datalog I took with the smarty to see when the non-responsive pedal is tied to something else. The 2 red top optimas I'm running are maybe 8-9 years old. They were in my 01 ram. Got this truck and swapped them over. Wondering if bad batteries could cause this. If so, I have to research batteries now.

Ultra-gauge came in. Showed rail pressure jumping to -15k at idle. It also showed another code. P0251 iirc. Got a new FCA and so far seems to be fixed. Short test drive. Tomorrow I'll drive her to work.

Got my ultra-gauge. When the rattle increases the rail pressure goes up to ~15k. Also showing p0251. Gonna get a FCA.

Got one on the way now. The MX

the rough idle from outside the truck http://vid12.photobucket.com/albums/a207/CrazyMoparGirl/05%20ram/B272723E-5FD7-4DBD-88A3-8BA325BFB566_zpsfildk08x.mp4

still cant find anything online. I can see it being a fuel problem I need to know what rail pressure is doing to go any further. Does the ultra gauge have rail pressure?

Sorry guys. Had Drill this weekend. Had to ride the Buell. Not a bad thing overall. Cant figure out how to get back to change my sig? I did once. Victim is a 05 QCLB 4x4 6spd. I am looking at getting a BT1 http://gopointtech.com/products/ Instead of throwing parts at it, I might get this and diagnosis the truck and see if maybe something simple (cheap) Also a cheap temp was to monitor rail pressure until I can get my tuner/gauges. Also I have other vehicles I can use it on as well. I might pull the COV to check. Again sorry, everyone. Was busy this weekend.

any way to test It? The apps is part of the actual pedal. Codes: P0541 P0107 P0073 I forgot to plug in the sensor on the air tube. And my one grid heater relay is burnt.

Having an interesting issue with my truck. Trying to load the engine under approx. 1K rpm, it starts to shudder, pedal goes dead, or at least no affect on the engine, real rough idle which drops to about 5-600rpm. Itll catch itself and jump up to a return idle. If I baby it and keep the rpms > 1K not to much an issue. Just for increased clutch wear. Doing some research, I unlugged the fca, Had bad fuel knock. However it didn't do it Only tried it three times. Does this make sense? Still might not be the FCA. Any way to troubleshoot it? I hate just throwing parts at it. Heres a vid: http://vid12.photobucket.com/albums/a207/CrazyMoparGirl/IMG_4173_zpsv87d1i41.mp4

What is the difference between a Cummins and V10 tranny? Governor for shift points? TC? the internals should be the same for strength, I think?

Ok that makes sense. I have CAD on my 89 Ramcharger and did the wheel sawing to help it engage. My diesel is, unfortunately, 2wd.

That is what I noticed as well about the way it acted when it had pressure vs when it did not. Only reason I have come across was a torn or cracked diaphragm for the change in starting. A weaken VP sounds viable as well. Other then the starting issue truck runs great. I am curious to see if changing the timing changes the dieing going into gear. That's a separate issue. I think.

It is a tight tc. Got the tranny done in 05ish. Truck started dieing again once I readvanced the timing with the smarty. However it is something I can check to see if the cranking with a primed fuel system changes. The dieing going into gear is a separate thing. I hope. - - - Updated - - - It is a tight tc. Got the tranny done in 05ish. Truck started dieing again once I readvanced the timing with the smarty. However it is something I can check to see if the cranking with a primed fuel system changes. The dieing going into gear is a separate thing. I hope.

I don't have air in the system with the original draw straw. Even sitting overnight supply line was full. The air was with the modded fuel module. Verified with said clear hose. It does this hard starting while primed, with a full tank as well.

Yours is a solid axle? What happens in 2 wheel drive? Front drive shaft still turn just not receiving power.

Ok posted my 1st YouTube video! Lol The draw straw has been like that since I put it in about 7yrs ago. The 1/4 tank is getting old. I put a DS V? Iirc. The draw straw used to bypass the intank pump. Yes I have 2 draw straws. The original that you drill a hole in the top and drop it in through a grommet. The second one that uses the fuel module is sucking air somewhere. That is causing hard starting all the time. The truck did start with fuel pressure back then. About year ago. I have videos here but the cell phone shot crappy vids. I even hooked up a clear line from the filter to the vp and you could see air in the line as it was running. Air is coming from in the tank somewhere. So I went back to the original draw straw. Lift pump is a Walbro gs392. Wot pressure is arround 12 idle is about 15. If you can hear it the first start attempt is priming the fuel system, second is not. Noticeable difference in cranking time. Yes the fuel pressure gauge is on my knee. Lol. Another project is making.a fiberglass gauge pod and pulled the gauge out of the cubby hole where it was since I had the dash rolled back installing my alarm. Oh yea codes: 1693, 1694 Ok the vid http://youtu.be/yjg8eECzfbw

Ok found out my truck is actually having a hard time starting with fuel pressure showing on the gauge. Never had this issue before and dont know how long its been going on.I have remote start and almost always use it. Until my truck gets to slightly under 1/4 tank. I have a bad cut DS so at times under 1/4 tank it will start then stall or not start till I prime the fuel system with the key bump trick. Well last 1/4 tank I remote started it watching the gauge. Started up as normal but seemed to take a bit longer to get FP up. Ok I says. No more remote starts till fill up. Next day I prime the fuel system first, it cranks a couple seconds then starts. Let it idle a bit shut off and restart with priming, fires right up. Repeat with priming more cranking.Now IIRC a torn or cracked diaphragm will cause this correct? The articles IIRC mention it being a problem when hot. This was first fire of the day.Reason is I am starting to suspect a tired VP44. Fuel economy isnt what it was, wife noticed a different idle, which now that I think about it it does. I did advance the timing on the smarty to level 4 recently and it started the stalling going into gear thing...again. So we decided to start a VP44 nestegg for when it goes. Just wondering if this new hard starting is another hit against a tired/worn out VP. Truck drives fine, has power and no trouble starting cold or hot, as long as I dont pre prime the fuel system.

- - - Updated - - - That reminds me. I need to change my oil.

IIRC Moparman has a pic of his draw straw and its not cut an an angle, he cut notches in the bottom of the tube. So even if the tube touched the bottom of the tank, there were "windows" where fuel could still get sucked in.

With the stock HY, smarty and the Rv's I had a great towing setup. As normal I wanted more, Swapped in my current turbo and a noticable difference in turbo spool. Not enough fuel for it, but still ran great. If you are going to upgrade the turbo go a bit bigger, maybe 100's.Worse mpg's I got with the RV's was 11mpg. Towing around 15K cargo trailer. 33' bumper pull, heading north on I-5 Had a head wind strong enough I couldn't pull in overdrive on flat land. Overall I recommend them.Best was just over 21 at 70mpg on flat land. It was 20mpg the tank before. I got about .5 from just adjusting my valves. Was at 160K ish.

How much different is a 472 to a 475? I dont want to have to run a special VP, so from what I gather a SO VP pairs nice with a s472, Hopefully the 62 isn't a little too big.

True, I suppose I thoguht the OBDii system was a little more universal than what it is. Guess its back to my original plan. Doesnt hurt to ask. Also was hoping so since I found out the 98 Jeeps seem to be the only year the key dance trick doesnt work with.