2500ctd

Why is the Dana 80 getting new fuel lines? Sorry, had to. Keep us posted with progress/pics. With out the bed on is the best time to fix and run all new lines and any tank mods now.

That sucks if I ever do a cam swap thinking of trying the cam driven fuel pump.

I did try the jeep when I got home and no dice as well. Was hoping the 05 would work but from what everyone is saying I guess not. Don't see the harm in having it read codes across generations. Oh well.

Not sure where to post this so please move to where appropriate. Question is can a Smarty be used to read generic codes? Ie non diesel? To be specific, 98 jeep grand Cherokee and a 05 set4? Just got a smart phone:hyper: and interested in an ob2 reader but if the Smarty will do it no need. Unless the app can double as a scan gauge.

I already have to the 62. My hy was on its way out. Why I picked the "smaller" of the turbos I had in mind. At first was thinking a s480. Now. After some reading and being realistic, I am thinking either a S475 or S472. Leaning towards the 472.

I just changed mine from timing of 1 to 4. The smoke clears up faster and the spool is little quicker. I forgot I towed last summer and always back the timing off when I do tow. The TM was 3 and iirc the duration was 3 as well. All this on SW#2 I still have my winter frotns on but havent noticed any difference. Temps all seem normal. Not sure about mpg's as I live in a small town and all the speeds are 35mph:banghead:

Does anyone have a QCSB 2wd? Its a pain to drop my tank and I have topper as well. No way to lift the bed, and the best way I found to drop my tank is to tak the rear wheel off and I have to remove a cross memeber as well to get the tank to drop. :banghead: If mike has any more friends like that to loan out I'll drop the tank. If not its gonna be while. Will be my third time dropping it. 1st to put the draw straw in. 2005 iirc, then second was to replace the DS with a modded canister to eliminate the 1/4 tank issues but the canister is sucking air somewhere. So I have to use the old DS for now.

What were your smarty settings at? Might be good to write down ones that work during different operations then you can go back to them easily. REVO SW too right?

From what I have noticed, there are 2 different Sport models of trucks. Pre quad cab, Those are all painted the monochormatic but share the same bumper and headlights. The quadcab sports have the different bumper, grill and the 4 bulb headlights. Main thing on the truck is pre 98 or 97 the rad support will have to be opened up to accept the 4 bulbs units. Mine is an 01 so the opening was already there as it was probably easier to have one rad support.

I have dealt with Daniel Stern before, and I will again. He knows his stuff. During my quest for better lighting I have come up with the same thing basically for the least amount of work. I have some off brand Sport lights and I need to replace them. One has moisture in it and the other never really tighten down fully. The lighting operation of the Sports is correct as well. When I first put mine in I needed to use the stock headlight blub which is the high beam on sports. I have to adjust the lamps so far down that it hit the fender. Still the light pattern was a tad to high. I still got ocasionally flashed. As far as lights IMHO Fluted lenses seem to be the least effiecient, followed by reflectro type housing and then projector style housings. Projectors making the most of the light. As far as my ideas, HID conversions. using cheap knock offs and refitting OEM HID projectors in them, using knock offs and refitting halogen headlight modules like these: Hella Headlight modules the 90 mm flavor. The black housing shouldnt eat light. Shouldn't as only the reflector is the working part. The housing around it can be any color. Now with the cheapie ebay lights, who knows. The smoked lense WILL eat light. Sucks since I like that look too, but clear lenses are better then new front sheet metal. Unfortunately the Sports are the best low labor involved option I have come across, and I like how they look as well. I dont drive with my foglights on as well unless its umm foggy out. They put out too much foreground light and draw diminsh your distance vision. OK in town but not good on interstate where you want ample time to see, identify and react to something in the road. If its foggy enough to need foglights, you shouldnt be driving at highway speeds anyways. Just my opinion.

Sorry if I missed it but in your sig you have a S472. I bought my 62 in order to twin it later, and am debating on the S475 or S472. How does your Twin setup run? I swear you did a project log on it, just I been gone since the begining of the year. What are the specs on your bottom turbo?

I have a dipricol gauge and am going to go electric. However I am keeping the mech gauge as a back up under the hood. Why? Got plans for my inside gauges. Researching on it now. That takes the most time on new projects.

Mopar is right, there is a faulty circuit draining the batteries. From my 2001 FSM about the IOD fuse:

I been thinking of an access plate as well. Dont have a way to lift the bed. I have a topper on it and no garage. Also pulling my tank is a pain. I think I am the only one that has trouble pulling the tank. I have the modded module and its sucking air. Didnt pull the tank to fix it as I just rehooked my old draw straw and have to deal again with the 1/4 tank issues. :banghead:For whatever reason, I have to pull the rear tire and drop a crossmember to get the tank out. Maybe cause I am a QCSB 2WD?I did make an access plate for the fuel tank in the back of my Ramcharger. Since the PO cut the floor up to halfass a fix there anyways. I welded the floor back together and make an access panel while I was there.

A filter would normally only restrict pressure if its dirty, unless its too small of a filter for the intended fuel flow. Hard to tell whats in the tank without dropping it or trying to see inside at least.I am running a walbro 392 and have been fighting a regulator issue. Found a nice check valve style regulator. Set it at about 17psi at idle and drops a little more then I like at WOT. IIRC stays above 12 at WOT however. I am running a dipricol gauge. Flopping around on the dash for now. Going to go with hopefully an electric gauge in the future. If the project pans out it should be cool. :pray:Oh no snubber just an isolator that I think finally went. Not a big deal, as long as I know what my pressure is.

I seem to be getting the same mileage as stock with my setup in my sig. Only thing I am questioning is the turbo. Only getting about 34-35psi. Did a bunch on researching and the common thing was this turbo pushes around 38-40psi with 150hp injectors. Should I adjust the wastegate? It is hazy at WOT and EGT's can hit 1300. Not bad but I think this turbo should be able to easily clean up the 150's. Got this turbo since it will be a great top turbo for my future twin setup. S472. Dont want to have to get a monster vp. Still might do the twins before a VP tap box. Got my truck dynoed with Rv's and the new turbo, iirc around 283hp/605tq. Still need to with the bigger injectors. Here are a couple highway test vids. *Vids*

Exactly. I left them wired them same. One keyed one constant. If you don't have the plug that has the wiring, you will have to grind a bit of clearance as cig and power use different connectors. If you do, it is easy to remove the connectors to swap the plugs. Iirc one is green the other is red.

For those who have used the swivel style, did the tubes fall into position or was the fitting on the tubes tight enough so you had to move them into position? Been thinkin more and might have gotten a bad core the first time.

forgot to update. I welded some pieces of metal to an old pair of snap ring pliers. It worked. Push the plstic tabs inside the socket in and wiggle the cig socket out. I now have 2 12V accessory plugs in the dash. :hyper:The socket for the cig lighter is different then the dedicated 12V outlet. 12V outlet makes a better connection with your plug.

Got the heater core in from rockauto, picture not a shown. It was the swivel style. ON the other hand this one has some resistance to the tubes to align into position. The other one, not so much. Wife and I are gun shy about installing the swivel type. Quadratec Shows the old solder style core. The old one failed on the top of the core. Didnt look close enough to see if it was at the actual connection or not. Will have to check it out. Gotta see the return policy on the old leaking heater core. Once it was in couldnt have the jeep back down, needed it in the snow. I so need a 4wd cummins.

Is this worth doing if there is nothing wrong? My vac pump seems to work, do they need to be "freshened up" or just wait till it goes out?Hmmm just read the site, doesnt redo the actual pump just the seal between the pump and power steering. Will have to look again. Had a fuel leak for the longest in that area so now I need to see if it gets overly dirty there again.

First off this is mainly for a 98 Grand Cherokee. Haivng done the heater core and evap in it in time for winter, I had to wait to refill the AC. Which of course I am almost certain the heater core started leaking again. Same symptoms as before. Got the core from rockauto. Aluminum one with a type of crimped on line. Doing research others have said the lines has a good amount of resistance to them to turn. Well mine didnt. would almost spin on there own just by gravity. Of course after the jeep is back together. How this relates: During searching on trying to get the AC working in my truck, and seeing Mike's heater core pics, My 01 Ram the the 98 Gran Cherokee use the same heater core. Now not wanting to pull my dash again, just installed an alarm, I want to get the fixed tube heater cores, like the OEM ones. I think I ordered one from rockauto as they always have pics but it seems to be a universal pic. I will find out soon I guess. Anyone else have this issue? Anyone get a oem style heater core for less then a dealer? Only paid 40ish for both cores. Just trying to plan ahead as I know the minute I fix my AC the heater core will go out. ok 98 Jeep swivel tubes: non swivel oem style: link to ebay auction showing a mopar ram one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-Quad-Cab-94-01-NEW-Heater-Core-OEM-Mopar-/400307282152 Ok 2 different links but use the same pic : 94-01 Ram 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I just get out and turn the key off. Before I used to wait till around 300. Now with my alarm it has a turbo timer. Set it at 3min for now. During normal driving the egt's are under 300 within a minute. 2 more mins cant hurt. Also the remote start set for 12min. Towing I will probably activate the the remote start for the 12min cool down. I used to coast down to a stop but like stated to me that is a false indication due to the engine just pumping air. I came to that conclusion coasting down a hill on i10 in cali. the egts' got down to 180. once the road started to level off the egts slowly came back up. I drive to my spot normal and just waited till it colled down. Unlike the average guy that has a big 5th wheel, pull off the interstate stops and kills the truck as I am still waiting for my egt's to cool down. I do like the idea of an oil temp gauge. Something else to add on. For the oil we could try an oil accumulator. one version and a Tech article on it. We would need to use a small orifice to make the volume last a bit, OR for pumping a small differential oil pump and a small cooler on a timer. Diff pump and a Factory application. Now we could also run the oil through a secondary toliet paper style filter as well. That way cool the turbo and fine filter the oil.

Nice. Looking forward to this. Dont be suprised if I ask for some detailed pics along the way.

I would like to see live data from the engine when it stalls. Something to give an indication as too why. MY trucks been down the last couple months so I am not sure if it will stall now that its a bit warmer outside. I actually still have winter diesel in the tank. Not sure when the switch over point is