BugJEB34

Thanks for the replies, goofed around with everything last night and the problem hasn't reproduced itself since. Wife should get her car back Friday and after I get her deerproofing bumper put on her Jeep and out of my shop I'm gonna put the truck in there and clean everything up nice and keep an eye on everything in the process for what coulda caused the issue.

As the title states my truck won't turn over at times as in starter won't even attempt to spin, when its happened with me I let the clutch out and push it all the way in again and we crank right up. I'm thinking/hoping that I'm getting a bad connection on the sensor that tells the computer the clutch is engaged and it's safe to start. Just want to poll the audience and make sure I'm not missing something or this is symptoms of a bigger issue. My main issue with it right now is the wife used her jeep to do some deer hunting and it's in the shop till Friday and I head out of town for work tomorrow, so if its a bigger issue, then I want to get it resolved before I leave. No clicking like a solenoid going bad or anything like that, really just like what you get if you turn the switch with no clutch pushed in. Any help/reassuring would be great. Hate I travel so much now days, miss getting on here and catching up and seeing whats going on as often.

Local built stoves are some really good ones, the one I used for a while was built by my father in law off specs from a name brand, but with high end fire bricks (they owned a brick company so specially made some to really hold heat) and much thicker steel than the store bought. It took a while to get it all heated up, but once you did it held the heat like none other. Only problem is around my area now if you heat with wood insurance companies are requiring you to provide them with the UL number off your stove and a photo of the UL plate. If you do decide on going some route like that be sure to check before you spend the money.

Welcome! I'm in NC as well, what part are you in?

Charlotte, NC area for me.

Sales for Drywall and Steel framing mainly, but also sale about any construction related tool you can think of as well as anything else for the building industry materials wise I can get my hands on. Been here going on 7 years, since right out of college, and spent the first 4.5 in purchasing and the last 2+ selling it. Then there is all that hobby type stuff like anyone else.

There is a guy in Denver who does classic car upholstery mostly, but has done several dodge seats for my uncle. Message me if you'd like to know his name, he does very nice work and is extremely reasonable. He did some stuff on both my broncos and I was always really pleased. Sometimes takes his time a little but for the price and the work he does I've never minded.

Welcome!!! Always good to have more pros. 2 of my 3 gauges are from you guys, and the 3rd will be as soon as I need to replace the FP gauge.

Always like seeing Honda ATV's. I've got an '06 Foreman 500, my 3rd Honda lifetime, and still have my '95 TRX300. Doesn't matter how hard you work em, they just keep going on.I really like the EFI on those ranchers though, couple of my buddies ride those and they have as much get up as my 500 if not more. if the wife wouldn't kill me I'd love to have the new EFI Foreman. It'd probably require me riding more than 2 times a year to talk her into it though.

Welcome from NC.

Went over the weekend and had the codes checked, and no codes at all. Got my gauges finally installed so they are no longer collecting dust in my shop and I am getting around 12 to 14 psi of fuel pressure. I know it needs changed to one of the upgraded models and I'd prefer it stay above 14, but with the new kid and all as long as it stays above 10 I'm not putting that as a top priority. Now that I have the fuel pressure figured out, not codes, and still getting white smoke until its warm I will be retorquing the head bolts and then continue from there. Still no coolant loss, but I do have some weaping injector lines that I plan to get cleaned up when I retorque. Is there any chance that air getting in the lines could cause me an issue with the smoking? --- Update to the previous post... Glad I could provide some humor, won't hold it against you at all. Heck with some of the stuff I do to keep things as DIY I'm really surprised my neighbors don't think I'm nuts. Most of the folks in my neighborhood think changing oil is a major undertaking and anytime they see me working on my truck they assume its just an old clunker that is always broken. Preventative maintenance to them or talking about it to most of them is like trying to explain nuclear energy.

Don't worry I plan to pull any codes before I bother checking anything else!!

I will check those as well just to be sure. My only issue is the truck runs perfectly even when its smoking. I'm not getting any missing, no loss of power at any time, just some white smoke and it doesn't seem to have any fuel type of smell. Will be taking a look at it all next weekend and will report my findings.

As of last time I drove the truck which I think was Sunday, I still had no codes with the key trick.

Haha, actually kind of what I was thinking. Either that or take off, slam ob brakes and jump out and do a chinese fire drill getting back to the smoke to smell it. I just have to find a place to do it so my neighbors don't see me pull my truck out of the shop, take off up the street, jump out and smell the smoke, then back it back into the shop. They'd all be over asking my wife if I had went nuts. --- Update to the previous post... I knew this one was going to come up and I'm an idiot, lift pump is a stock one, I replaced it right when I bought the truck because I knew they crapped out often, so the pump is 2.5 years old and I will check the pressure. At that time I didn't realize I needed to get a nicer one nor did I know of the nicer ones. I have a gauge sitting in the shop to go in, but they have been sitting there for a while now, so I need to get them put on. I will plug into the test port and see what I'm getting.

The truck has 216,XXX on it, I've had it for 2.5 years now and it had 189,000 on it when I bought it. I had the compression checked before I bought the truck and also had them make sure I didn't have a major loss when I had the leak, but I didn't find out exactly what the compression was. I can take it to them and have it checked and get back to you on that. I'm big on not fixing non broken things myself, but this white smoke is annoying and means something isn't right, so I've got to get it taken care of. Thanks for the reply and I will report back once I get the compression checked.

Sorry for the delay, my home computer wouldn't load this site only for 2 days, and I have a 3 week old newborn so I didn't have tons of time to check it. Today is the first day back to work in a couple weeks, so this is the first time I've had to just sit down. Haha I will check on the smoke smell, I'm near positive it smells like diesel, which is why I was originally thinking fuel line or injector issue, but hard for me to really smell it as I have to be taking off and have the engine under load to get smoke, doesn't smoke at all just sitting. Don't worry I'm not going to be tearing in just for the sake of doing it, I'm doing my research first and going from there, truck isn't my daily driver, so no biggie. Valves seem to be functioning properly, I can take the cover off put the truck in neutral and they all work properly and all of them are set and have been checked and rechecked. The truck is throwing no codes, but I will check again and if its the VP I'm having no other issues whatsoever, but if there is something else about it I should check I can do that.

That is the exact reason I haven't just called it that and started tearing down again. And since I'm not completely sold on it, I'm not tearing it down just for peace of mind, I want to be sure before I do something like that. It's also not my DD so I'm not in a super hurry to have to make a call. I have a company vehicle that I drive 95% of the time, I only drive it when I need to haul something or try to once a weekend just to keep its juices flowing.

Near certain it's white, and today the coolant bottle is a little lower. Could be because of me opening the radiator cap while it was hot and some overflowed, but I wanted to check for bubbles in the radiator, which I found none. I'm somewhat stumped, as much as I don't want to I want to say HG again, but I'm not pushing out any fluid like it was before and the problem goes away like flipping a switch as soon as you get to operating temp. It's like you hit 190 or start getting close to it and its gone, can't even make it smoke. I think this weekend I'm going to re-torque my head bolts, give everything a once over, and see if I'm going to have to pull the head again or if that possibly fixes it. It's almost like I'm not getting a good seal until it gets warm all of sudden then it seals and the problem is gone.

I couldn't agree more, my only thing is it stopping like you flip a switch once you get to operating temps. But for this very reason I have been watching coolant levels very closely as well as oil levels to make sure I'm not getting any mixing. Also going to be checking the valves as long as I'm in there. I'm pretty big on as long as I have it off there is no use not throwing a gauge in there.

I need some advice from someone smarter than myself on what may cause my issue. I am getting white smoke under acceleration until the truck gets to operating temp then it goes away completely and I can't make it smoke. No smoke whatsoever at idle just a puff of black just as it starts. I just recently replaced a head gasket so EVERYTHING has been taken off my truck recently and I'm not sure where to begin to start if I have a connection that may be fouled up. One thing I do need to do after reading some of Mopar's articles on injector and fuel line reinstalling after the change and I have realized I need to first take the tubes back out and clean the tips of them as well as tighten the fuel lines onto the tubes before I tighten the injector down to ensure I tight seal. That being said I do smell fuel when the truck is running and an near positive I am getting air intrusion, I just want to make sure while I have it all apart that I check anything that may need checked. Since the replacement of the head gasket I am getting no fluid mixing, no bubbles in the coolant, and no overheating issues, so I don't think its the head gasket again. I am going to re-torque while I have everything apart just as a precaution just to check, but like I said many of you know much more than I do, so while I'm working I want to make sure I check anything that could be problematic. Thanks in advance for any advice.Jason

Welcome!! What part of NC?

Okay I just wanted to make sure I understood what you were trying to accomplish before I got too deep into it. If you figure out a way to make it work I'm very interested, because all of mine I have the 31 pages made for and then would have pretty much everything you have from line 26 down on a separate page that is just for information dumping. Gotta head out of the office for a while not but I will take a look at it again this afternoon, and also would like to see how you get it fixed if you get it to working.

Are you going in each day and changing all the information in the manual entry fields? I have several spreadsheets set up with daily totals, or totals, but I have pages set up for each day and then all dumped into one master page that gives me the totals that I need to see. Pretty much I always make 31 of the input pages, then tie them into 1 master page and then tie the input pages together if I need information from the prior day to dump into the next day. It seems on this page you pretty much have an if, then formula that each time you change the if it then gives you the information for the then, but each time you change the if it gets rid of your prior information. I'm sure there is some complex formula that may take care of that, and the way I always do it probably takes up more space, but that's what external hard drives are for! Looks like the post above me has it better figured out, but I always do it possibly the long way and then just copy my input page however many times I need to so I don't have to input the info 31 times.

4 hands could for sure get it done. Good piece of information I forgot to mention that I found online is to take a piece of cardboard and cut it in half and lay over your newly placed gasket while lowering the head back in. That way you don't damage the new gasket regardless of how you put it back. Then after you get it sat down remove the cardboard one half at a time and set the back half on the peg then repeat for the front. Not sure if its really necessary to do but as much as I enjoyed doing it the first time I wanted to try and make sure it would be a while before I got to enjoy it again, and that seemed like a smart thing to do.