mr.mindless

"no comment""I have nothing to say""I do not want to be on the air, or speak to you""please leave my property""you are trespassing, please leave - now"that's about all you've got to say.... If they don't take the hint the next step differs state to state if you catch my drift but with cameras present law enforcement involvement on grounds of trespass is the next step in most cases.

Are you sure that switch talks to the cruise though, Mike?As I said, open or closed makes no difference to cruise in my truck. I was quite shocked at that.

Thanks dorkweed. I swear I'd posted that already but I failed or it was another thread You can also use chalk or paint on the tire. Start at max sidewall pressure and drop in small increments until the shoulders make good contact, then drop 2-3 more psi for even wear. If your rim width is very narrow you'll end up with low pressure from this method. Be aware of that if you're running wide tires on skinny wheels. Always be sure you're running adequate pressure for your carried weight.

I didn't download your sheet so I don't know if you just did a plain ratio, but I'd assume so. I expect reality might match that for the top 70% of the tires' capacities but I don't think it's a simple proportion below there. The "proper" way for tire wear is to take your fresh tire, air up to sidewall pressure, and then chalk or paint the tire or use a patchy wet parking lot to see when the tread pattern becomes even and square as you drop pressure. Once the shoulders of the tire contact the pavement (even wear of the chalk across the tread) drop about 3psi further and you're at optimal pressure for tread wear. Depending on profile/ rim width/ aspect, that may be high or low for handling but should be very close an will give your optimal tread life.

D and E rated tires versus my Fs as well. Steel sidewalls can't run low pressures.The chalk test is really the right way to figure your correct tire pressures at less than full load...And of course if you're up near tire capacity, you should be running full sidewall pressure.

the change when in 4x4 reaffirms my thoughts on driveline mounts or joints.

95 all the way around for me

I don't believe any 2nd gen has a switch on the clutch to indicate the start of travel, only the end of travel. That is certainly the case on my '97. Cruise disengages with the RPM flare of a disengaged clutch only. I was expecting to have to wire a clutch safely in after my transmission swap, but it makes no difference to any truck systems which position that switch is in aside from cranking the starter. It does not affect cruise in any way, and there was no switch other than the ring type housing around the clutch plunger.more (any?) details on your truck may be helpful if things are different in late 2nd gens, but I don't believe they are. No firsthand experience on 98+ systems though.

Dartiness without slop sounds like an alignment issue. Check your toe.

I usually get around 11 towing it seems. I don't go slow, as discussed elsewhere, but I don't rip it at 80mph either. weight on the trailer doesn't seem to matter. I get the same mpg with a pair of E250s as I do with a single Mustang if I'm running similar terrain and speeds. within 1 mpg at any rate. Even my empty trailer is enough to get me in my 'towing' mileage, it's about 4600# empty.

Any pics, towman? I, too, am stunned!

if it shakes due to lack of power, the lack of power has to be due to something wrong. lack of power with nothing else wrong would be smooth and slow. does your shifter bounce around? bad tranny mount can make the drivetrain hop in some circumstances. as others have said, check all your ujoints. Check all drivetrain mount bushings. make sure the tcase is tight on the trans and the trans tight on the clutch housing. Make sure your rear ubolts are tight. That's all the easy stuff. How's your fuel pressure? low pressure will make the VP44 stumble. and then kill it - quickly. a rough running under load problem with a buddy's '02 ended up being a bad Cummins ECM. That was a really, really shitty $1500 dealership 3 week diagnosis fiasco. Bottom line: your truck should have NO problem pulling 10-14k with 4.10 gears. Something is wrong. Shaking is probably another symptom of the same issue. Whether low power or driveline issues.

One guy I'd bought parts from rebuilt his and two other friends' bars with their parts and had good success, for what that's worth....

That's what I'm used to hearing both from the intertubes and from all the folks I know even with gasser 2nd gens. The west coast bias and number of easygoing slow drivers must be the "other side of the coin" The NAPA replacement in my truck lasted about 25k before I cut it up, the previous owner put it on and he bought the truck about 35k before I did the mod, that's the longest it could have lasted if it was the very first thing he did - and it wasn't...

Took a used banks brake on trade for my clutch, I think it was, after the 13 speed swap. Finally getting it installed. Made up my new down pipe and exhaust, got that all welded up last night. Brake is mounted and downpipe is mounted. Just need to hang the exhaust. Vacuum controls are hooked up, I still need to do the wiring. The setup I got didn't have the accelerator pedal switch, I'll need to make something up for that. They don't sell the kit for the 12v trucks anymore but they do have the install manual posted, so I've got the right wires to tap for cruise and so forth. Sadly there's no wiring diagram provided, just a "cut this, tap here" so everything is just done on faith. Their 24v system has some additional inputs, one of which runs the brake when ECT is under 125˚. I'd rather like to enable something like that, I'd expect with a temp sensor from McMaster it should be pretty easy to give the 'on' side of the switch some power with cold coolant. Wish I had a spare fog light switch, that'd be perfect for this, depending on its pinout. --- Update to the previous post... Just finished reading the 12v install manual. Sadly, the cruise interaction of the banks setup is simply to kill cruise when the brake is activated. I was hoping it could be a "set it and forget it" in the hills, but no such luck. I can't think of a simple way to rework that. I dont see any cheap thermal switches at McMaster, either.... Most things in the temp range I'm looking for are HVAC. Most things looking to engine coolant temp are a minimum of 160˚ and I think that's a little warm. This and similar parts look pretty promising - though more complicated than I was hoping for. <http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3653/> --- Update to the previous post... All right, this is the temp controller I'll be going with http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3653 But the issue that comes to mind is getting good coolant to that type of probe. The thermostat won't be open, so the radiator hoses stay cold until operating temp is reached. The probe is rather large and would block much of a heater hose. I could use some step-up couplings and run a section of larger heater hose. Can anyone think of anything more elegant? I haven't been able to find a thread-in type sensor with an activation temp lower than 160˚ I'm chasing this idea pretty hard because I want the brake to be actuated every time I drive the truck, since it does tend to sit for days at a time and do short trips where I wouldn't otherwise use the brake.

I see enough play at the pitman arm ball joint and at the passenger side knuckle that I'd replace the drag link too if you're having slop issues.Slop and pull are very separate issues though. Pull is usually a camber issue or axle alignment issue. If it's just your wheel off center that's nothing but a drag link length adjustment. If you're going to replace the track bar don't bother adjusting that one until you're done, it'll change at least slightly. Check axle alignment by measuring your wheelbase on both sides. With 180k on your suspension components the rubber isolators in the suspension links may be allowing a little leeway in the exact axle position which could give you some pull - assuming there's no possible crash/frame tweak incidents in the truck's history of course.sometimes a tire rotation can effect things too, even when wear looks good. My buddy's '01 gained a HARD pull to the left after a tire rotation although everything looks to be wearing even, and still is even with the pull.

$15 Harbor Freight trash air horns purchased last night for my truck :cookoo:You can get a set of Hella Dualtones for about $40 that look just like the factories, and sound fantastic. They'd be plug and play.

I've finally gotten around to my Banks Brake/4" exhaust project, so I had the back of the turbo off last night. The gate isn't frozen and moves smoothly. I didn't disconnect the pressure line to it to test with shop air yet but I'm expecting that this is something I can either take care of with a linkage adjustment, or that there's an issue with the actuator.I'll update this thread when I pull that line off and see if the diaphragm is blown.

I can't stand driving slow. 65 in a 65 is about the best I can do, I'm usually 65 in 55s and 70-73 in 65s. My truck gets loud over 73 or so, that helps me slow down. A little. I'm just not wired for it.... The best mileage I've EVER gotten is 19.5, still with the NV4500, unloaded at a constant 55. Back to back with a 19.0 tank doing the same. I hate my 4.10s. Around town, and most of the time towing, I'm around 12. Truck's ownership-long average is 11.8. Some fuel leak issues here and there have brought the average down. I also do very very little highway nontowing, but I was in the mid 16s doing 65 empty back and forth to MN right after the RTOO swap. I'd never done the trip with the NV4500 empty so I don't know how much that extra OD gives me. RPM wise it's like putting 3.55s in, but there's a LOT more parasitic loss spinning the double countershaft trans internals I'm certain. Someday maybe 3.55s so I can lope around at 1300 RPM at 70. That'd be nice. I don't have an apples to apples, but I still expect 55 vs 65 is at least a 15% economy gain. The frustration of slow isn't worth it to me 80% of the time, though --- Update to the previous post... One other thing I was going to mention - I'm making a conscious effort lately to take off more gently around town and shift sooner (1850-2000 is my goal, if I don't pay attention I wind it out to 2500). I'm seeing a difference in the gauge, I'm thinking this tank will be around 13 instead of 11, and it has some towing on it too.

give the floating ground an anchor!

You can't just tie the ECM ground to that bus bar as well? stinky.

Mine was well over $100 in the Dakota when I snapped it.....

So just reconnect the wires you cut! The clock spring plugs in right at the head of the column, it doesn't go down the harness at all.... If the clock spring itself isn't broken it's quite the part!

Is there any way short of a DRB to get the airbag computer to let you know what it thinks is wrong? I've got the light on in my 97 as well, but it shouldn't be the clock spring... More likely a plug issue.... Electrical tape has it "fixed" for now.

howdy, from WNY.