cumminsVP2001

on stock what?

ya all stock springs and rods. it didnt make any sound and you should for sure hear that. It was popping at the top (last split second) i think it was from the 30* of timing.

i wanted to mention to people who are changing the rpm in regards to tuning. i had mine set on 3400rpm for 2 dyno pulls. both pulls were nearly identical. But on both pulls right at 3200-3250 the power drops off dramatically. its a 45* angle headed downward. (i typed this all out then decided to just attach the pictures lol.) is it worth stretching the rpm's?

that was the main goal. still waiting to see if i won the dyno event. I almost sh#t myself when i went back to the dyno board and saw i was still in first place after 9 other people going

i only went once down the track (too scared to break something and only way to get home) i just wanted the experience of going down the track. i dynoed first. dynoed 527hp and 1072tq. i just posted this in another thread, but a few guys that have dynoed before on another dyno said they did 50-100hp more on another dyno, so i was expecting like 400hp. i was still in first place out of 10 people when i left. on my track run. i kicked it in 4x4. got up on the rpm slightly. i was making just a couple pounds of boost. i had a 2.1 60ft (hence the no boost launch) but finished at a 8.7 at 86mph. if i launched harder i would for sure be in the low 8's! i also had a hard slip inbetween 1-2 so that slowed me down for sure. THIS IS ALL WITH A VP TRUCK

i haze pretty bad with my 7x12's does anybody have dyno numbers with the quad? i am pretty impressed with what i put down. 527hp and 1072tq. i guess other guys who have dynoed before said this dyno was reading 50-100hp lower than what other dynos they used said. on the street/track i dont get any kind of breaking up, but on my 2 dyno pulls right at the last second it popped a few times before the run was over. in my data logs my timing always maxes out at 30*, but like i said, never does it on the street really

just got back from the track and dyno. lockup works good

your saying they will rise quickly while locked? i thought keeping it locked lowers temps. Either way, based off my adrenaline my temps peaked art 140 even after a half dozen pulls and stop and go traffic.

thanks for your help guys, just got back from a little drive. locked shifts are a blast! ahha. if i get on it and flip it in second it locks up good and shifts throughout. but if im just cruising in a gear it doesnt always lock up. why would this be? could it because i had my OD off?

does it matter which wire goes where? on my water/meth kit i just took a guess and it worked fine

Should this work? Does it matter which way I hook it up?

I guess I don't really need a light. I'll have to return it and get a switch like I have for my water/meth kit. Like I said I don't know crap about electrical stuff. Hopefully that's the fix.

This is my switch.i feel like I've tried every way possible to hook this thing up. This morning I had the switch turned off and drove for a bit and tourned it on, and nothing. Turned it back"off" where the light wasn't lit up and slowed down to take a corner and the truck started to shake so I quick and reached down and flipped it the other way, which one would assume would be "on" but the light was off. I then got out on the main road and tried various speeds and gears while flipping the switch and waiting a few seconds and nothing would happen.

well that was a fail. i double checked all my connections and everything seems to be good. I have my ground on the firewall and the signal from my pcm tapped and going to the signal side of my toggle switch. the middle prong on my switch is for the lighted part within the switch which i have tapped with a wire going to the battery from my water/meth kit and that wire melted a little but within the splice after my drive. like i said. im not the best with electronics. please help guys. i have a drag race event this weekend and want to be able to test with lock up switch throughout the week! reading over this thread https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-tech-articles/70447-tc-switch-howto-pics.html the only thing i can think is that i have my wires backward on my switch. i have it hooked up as follows from switch=where its going ground=firewall signal logo=pcm connection light symbol=tapped into wire going to battery from water/meth system on that forum it says connect GROUND wire to b11 orange/lback stripe to a switch. so should the wire tapped into the orange wire go to the prong labeled "ground" on my switch? and then the ground wire on firewall to the picture of a signal on my switch??

well i got it all wired up. switch lights up when on, but its currently raining here, so going to have to wait till tomorrow to check if i got everything wired correctly

i have a pair of 7x.012 sac with DAP bodies and i dont have anything bad to say. except i feel like they run hot. but i havent ever had a "high quality" injector to compare if egts would stay lower.

will an 18 gauge wire work for that jumper in the fuse box? a couple that i saw were much thicker wires. i just dont want any problems.

https://www.tstproducts.com/Torque Converter Lockup Switch.pdf i just decided to make my own jumper cause the 3rd store i went to still didnt have it. hopefully it works. im using 18 guage wire for it and for everything in wiring up the switch.

hey guys, just a quick question that i cant find the answer to. im trying to hook up a lock up switch. i have the tst diagram, but i cannot for the life of me figure out which kind of "jumper" i need to use. searching for a couple hours last night yielded no results to what i was trying to find. so, if someone has a link to the jumper i need, or an install video, or any help i would appreciate it!

Got you both beat at 1psi at 70mph

the next question is which is the best flowing but still fit a 24v the 105006 is the best flowing but stil has a 4 inch outlet. but its only flowing 680 at its best

do you happen to have a part number for a high flowing one? this is the one i had pulled up https://www.amazon.com/Donaldson-kfB105006-B105006-Filter/dp/B00JYL2CF2 https://catalog.donaldson.com/productDetail/en/A/B125003?productId=11674&skuId=s10302 this is the highest flowing one i have found and with pressure rating which i guess means everything from a few forums ive read. looks like i winner nevermind. i dont think that would even fit looking at the dimensions.

im going to i think. 2 weeks until MDS diesel showdown. donaldson b105006 is the one ive read is pretty good. pretty sure it was recommended by moparman on a thread several years ago. unless there is one that new and exciting. it says rated flow Lr:450cfm rated flow Mr:590 cfm those seem awfully low dont they? What is Mr and Lr

hey guys, just got my dps 3 piece and 66/71 thrown on. did a few pulls with it and i can tell it is keeping egts lower, but i still get pretty hot if i go over lvl 3. my first pull i was on lvl 3 going up a slight hill and i never hit my defuel. lvl 4 and lvl5 i can pull longer than i used to but still get hot decently quick. thought? i figured this turbo is plenty for the fuel im pushing. im also spraying 100% water with all these passes. @Me78569 i know there is probably alot of data in here, but can you see what these look like? i know i have one on lvl3 right away, then one on lvl 5, then one on level 4. your help is much appreciated iQuad-2018-07-26-08.56.11679868457.csv

so what im getting from this is throw a BHAF on it and dont worry? even on the track? or remove for track use. i cant believe no one has dynoed with and without an air filter. ive searched for hours and cant find anything.