Kawgomoo

In the end, cheap imitations will always be cheap imitations.OEM projectors are of course superior in beam pattern and light quality.But mounting them in a housing they were not designed for is a real nightmare.The projector is only part of the complete lighting system, and crispness and clarity dont have to be 100% dead nuts perfect in order to satisfy your needs.Anyway around it you are hanging an object that weighs nearly a pound off a structure that was designed to hold an ounce. And the weight is further out too, by a long shot!

so your prob a vendor and ill step on some toes. Those appear to be just the same china junk as everything else. I am an Ebay Power Seller, I used to make my living selling HID kits for autos, trucks, UTV's and various offroad applications. If you use a "CANBUS" kit, it will communicate the proper signal with your Chrysler's computer and defeat the lamp out warning. In my business i sold these as "Cancel Boxes" they are just a little black box that plugs inline with the ballast low side {12v} and fixes lamp out warning on newer node cars. ie canbus which is pretty much in everything chrysler and eurochrysler for about the last decade. These Chinese, they are smart. Seeing the popularity of the cancel box the race was on to incorporate this feature into there ballast. Thereby hoarding more business by eliminating this competitors product, albeit a complimentary one. Those crafty crafty chinese. ;) So im just here trying to save the regular joe a few bucks. In the world of HID price is almost irrelevant, these kits cost pennies to produce. Shop based on the features you know you need and buy from a reputable seller that will back the product up given a failure does occur. All chinese HID ballast have about 3% failure rate right out the box. About 5% burn out within a year.. once you get past a year the failure rate does not seem to climb. Its just in the numbers at this point. How closely are your parts matched based on sheer random dumb luck? I have the cheapest kit on the planet sloppily installed in my car and has been going strong for 4 years now. Proper installation is the key. It doesnt have to look pretty. Clean tight connections. Good Ground. DO NOT plug into the OEM headlight harness, the wire is too small. Even though the HID pull less running amp the initial surge is very high and they will not reliably start on that small wire. USE THE RELAY WIRING HARNESS!!! this is the only secret to hids. use the freaking relay harness! the end! enjoy hid's they are cheap and fund to play with. dont get caught up in the b.s. p.s. get plug n play hid kit for h3's and plop em in your fogs. slightly less illegal, can turn them off on busy roads. much better idea imho --- Update to the previous post... if you buy an ebay kit ask the seller for relay wiring kit. it will cost no more than 15$ extra. They sell a generic aux lighting relay kit at any auto store for 25 bucks. you would just have to connect the wires to the ballast plug. no big deal, but some people arent even comfortable with this level of diy. if your car has a 9007/h4 or similar dual filament bulb get a "flex" or moving hid kit. this allows for hid high and low beam with only one ballast per headlight. the bulb moves via a magnetic solenoid within the bulb holder. all "moving" kits come with the relay harness...they have to to make them work ;)

All of these HID kits posted are chinese "white box" kits.150 dollars is rape.If you want a no flicker kit, get on ebay. search for CANBUS HID KIT. those are the ones that wont flicker in chrysler vehicles.Sort by price, lowest to highest with shipping. You should be able to get a CANBUS kit for 50 bucks shipped or less. Most popular seller is "SuperVtec" though he has about 100 seller names. His brand is "Xentec"if you have a junk kit and they flicker hit me up and i will give you a set of flicker boxes, line conditioners whatever you want to call them. They are just 100mf capacitors inside of a case.If you have, want or are doing a porjector retro get a kit with the bulb base you need. More than likely D2S. DO NOT GET PROJECTORS THAT ASK FOR H1 BULB, THEY ARE DESIGNED FOR HALOGEN!!! then you are right back where you started.The problem with projector retros is the housing is complete dog crap. in order to do it right....well. good luck there. you really are better off getting junk ebay headlights with projectors already in them and trying to convert those to a higher quality projector assembly. The fit will be so much closer.I have NEVER in my life seen a projector retro that was not total dog crap . they ALL BREAK. the reflector was never intended or designed to hold the weight of a rear mount projector while you are out wheeling around.Why on gods green earth would anyone put ricer headlights in there truck? the frontal area on your truck has got to be at least that of 3 hondas. So why not just add aux lighting that is properly designed and aimable?no?Dont mean to go off on a rant here, but typically cummins owners are more concerned with function over form.HID kits and retros just do not perform like there OEM counterparts. Are trucks are higher up and already cause glare and blindness to on coming drivers. Multiply that with greatly brighter lights that are not focused and you get instantly blinded oncoming traffic at speed that was not expecting to be blinded.Those lights you rigged up to make you feel safer may very well get you killed. The NHTSA has BANNED ALL HID RETROFITS! Dont believe me? go check for yourself. Pilot about lost there butt over this.Be safe, Be smart.

Dont want to pee on anyones parade...buutttt With these you just peel the lense off the stock housing, screw these into the stock bulb hole. {they are direct mount, bulb base specific} then you just glue the lense back on and wire then up. D1 style with shutter hi/lo not affiliated with whatever company i hot linked this pic from..just the first result from google. these kits can be had for about 125/pair on fleabay http://www.easy-motorcycle.com/images/angelhid.jpg

those are projectors, not HID'snot all projectors are hids, not all hids are projectors.These are H1 style halogen projectors with LED halosi am an ebay power seller of chinese junk for a living. i know this crap inside and out.all this white box stuff is made in the same place. QC is out the window. just buy whatever and deal with it.you can buff out your stock lenses pretty well...the lense polishing kits are only 6 or 7 bucks.

i just took all the vac lines off my cad, pulled the cad part out flipped it around {so its always locked} and put manual hubs on the truck.works great for me!

had a phantom problem like this on my dads cherokee. turned out the stupid cell phone installers had hit a duct with self tapper and the diverter door was jammed against teh tip of the screw that had penetrated.3 years with no heat in virginia..brand new truck. dealer had tried everything. pulled that one screw out and poof....no more issues.

Hid "kits" come in basically two flavors.OEM kits robbed out of stock housings, most people use these when building there own diy setup.The electronics are higher quality but the bulb is...well...rigged, to say the least.Everything else. No matter what anyone tells you, that plug n play aka direct fit aka bolt in kit is made in china. German technology oh whatever. There are only 2 main manufactures of HID kits, and about 72,000 rebrands of these kits. You can consider all of these Chinese White Box goods.The chinese ballast are of a lower quality but for all intents and purposes..they are just fine. Those 600 dollar fancy off road lights you see on trophy trucks? yup. same junk chinese white box ballast inside.with the chinese stuff all the bulbs are the same. well, with all hid its like that.these are basically 35w metal halide lamps. the glass part of the bulb aka the tube is what makes light. the plastic part that makes this glass tube adapt into your OEM housing is the part that is made in china.The issue? ALL hid kits put into a housing NOT ORIGINALLY DESIGNED for hid lights will have a screwed up beam pattern. i dont care what kit or how you rig it together it wont be right. it will be brighter to the sides but the light will have LESS throw. hands down. and piss off oncoming traffic.Where the bulb is placed in relation to the reflector is critical. if they are off a just a hair the headlight will look different color, or the light will be focused in different areas..or not at all.projectors...this is a whole nother can of of beans. but you can go three ways here. OEM projectors into your housings {tons of work}aftermarket housings with projectors {crap fit}aftermarket projects that fit into OEM housing {complex install}the third really is the best choice. the hardest part is seperating the lense from the reflector withing breakng it. but with a large box and a heat gun you can do it.HID COLOR... this is expressed in Kelvin. the OEM hid look you want 6000k, for ice blue 8000k, for royal blue 10,000k purple 12,000k anything higher will be pink.i run 5000k hid in my car because they are the same color as halogen and cops leave me alone.

Simple Green is the ticket for maintaing a clean bay. Wont etch your polished stuff either.If you want to get real down to it, take your pressure washer and get the wet sandblasting attachment.instead of sand, run granulated laundry soap through it. Cleanest engine parts and pieces ever..with no fear of residual abrasive since its water soluble

awesome! something new to watch/learn. i was getting tired of the biodiesel tutorials

oil pressure, oil temp, egt, fuel pressure, water temp.In that order more or less.You can get one of the new fancy digital gauges and monitor 25 million channels through your one extra gauge spot.

You need to do a boost leak test. What kind of boost controller are you running? Make sure the DIP switches or whatever it uses are set up correctly for your WG type.I was using a Greddy Profec B and forgot to change the DIP when going from internal to external gate...i gave up on that thing for years before it just clicked one day.when in doubt, get the instructions out!

Swapping a Cummins from a 97 Dodge dually into my truck.Does this engine have a vacuum pump on it so my power brakes will work?It came equipped with the hydro-boost power steering/brake comglomeration.

Yeah it actually looks pretty easy. Its like the Dodge wants the diesel and nothing else. Maybe im just more motivated?I was building a '96 5.9 Magnum {turbo} to put in her, almost done with it too. Ran up to the machine shop to wash some parts in the mart {hot tank?} Chewing the fat with one of the guys i just randomly asked if he had a 4bt, he laughed and said nope...so i asked how about a 6bt. Imagine my surprise when he said Yes!He bought his dually back from the insurance company for 1300, so half joking i said i'll give you 1500 for it. He paused to think about it, and said make it closer to 2. I about ____ myself! Pardon my french:nono:The frame is tweaked, and a little of the cab tore up. but thats about it. Going to inspect it this weekend, if the mounts arent all snapped off the block i am Go Team Bravo! :cookoo:If you cant tell, im a little excited. The Ramcharger {hopefully} is about to roll some coal!

I think the problem is much like the dodge gassers, junk castings and induction hardened seats {no inserts}The head rebuilders offer a new casting, supposedly more meat around the seats, with press in's to boot.the remans are about a grande, and the new castings about 1500... might be worth the upgrade.You can find the heads under various labels, enginequest etc. Clearwater cylinder head aka odessa cylinder head usually has the best prices.