Bryan

The price is plus a core charge. $50 core charge is added at checkout. Shipping from here back to the east coast doesn't make it worth sending the core back for me. Maybe you could list the part numbers and where you go the kit.

It's been a couple of weeks, and everything is holding. No instances of the torque converter unlocking.

I got it from http://allmoparparts.com/amp-parts/#parts Make sure you have your VIN handy, they did check mine to make sure it would work on my truck.

I am going to see if I can find a rebuild kit for the alternator. Not worth paying the shipping costs for the core charge refund.

After 2 days of driving, the TC has stayed locked. Looks like the problem is solved. Time will confirm my results. Thanks moparman

Got my new alternator today. Took a Bosch off and the replacement was a Denso. After replacing the alternator, the test result was 0.00 to 0.015 VAC. I will road test tomorrow. I am pretty sure that solved the problem. I did check the alternator brushes for the field and they were pretty well worn along with a lot of scoring and grooving on the slip rings. Not sure if they contributed, but I am sure that didn't help anything either.

I have 2001 2wd Auto as my daily work truck. I am starting to have the lock/unlock issue too. I did the voltage test, got 14.2-3 VDC and anywhere from .5 to 0 VAC. It would go to zero unless a load cycled then it would go up to .03-05 VAC then settle back to zero once the load cycled off. I did the cable checks first and everything was 0 or .01 VDC drop which is fine. I am assuming that since this probnlem is intermittent that I may be catching the failure at it's starting point. Since it is intermitten, I am not sure removing the fuse and test driving it will tell me anything since it is not constnatly happening. I have a new alternator on the way. EDIT: this only occurs occaisionally when at steady state 40-45 mph which is about 1300 rpm in overdive and a slight load occurs such as a little bit if a grade increase. As soon as you step on it, it goes away. Any thoughts?

OMG! that is classic

Here is the chart and tolerances. Gold is 5% tolerance of the resistor value http://www.the12volt.com/resistors/resistors.asp

get one of the samll Honda "suitcase" style. They have an eco switch that will let it run all day on one tank of fuel when lightly loaded. They are very quite. A EU2000i which is a 2000 watt one is about $1000. You may be able to get away with a EU1000i is a 1000 watt which is a couple hundred less. Yamaha makes a similar unit that is very good too. Both produce clean sinewaves that won't screw up your electronics. http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/products/models.aspx?page=models&section=P2GG&category=sq

Also check out the efficiency of both. Are they all electric or gas/electric hybirds? Does either include testing that proves the system is balanced and working properly? Get references of who they did installs for in that last 5 years so you can contact them and see what issues they have had with the systems. If they even balk, get someone else. Around here it is York and Carrier for the main two brands.

Great idea to have how to section. I am pretty handy, but sometimes the people in the know leap way ahead and it takes quite a while to figure out what they said. Pictures and videos with explanations are a tremendous help.

Thanks. sent my request in and got a build sheet in a couple of hours.

Couldn't be truer. In my experience i installed my electronic gauge but it showed 0 psi and the odd time it would bounce up a little. I just assumed i had wired something wrong and it wasn't working, but not so:cookoo: That is how much fuel pressure i had:stuned: To this day I can't figure out why I didn't cook the ip cuz I ran it for quite a while like that.