fire176969

I actually planned on a stock rebuild and shift kit. New solenoids and a single disk billet TC. This is basically just to get my truck on the road again since I have two transmissions and neither one is working correctly. The second will take me a while to get the money together but I plan on a Kevlar clutches rebuild kit and a triple disk converter and a valve body. More than likely a billet input for the second one also just waiting on the funds and need the truck to help get the funds.

Still planning on doing the step by step for a rebuild. Just ran into some problems with the kit I ordered and then some things came up and just haven't had the time. Will definitely get it posted as soon as I'm able to actually start on it.

Check the drains for the heater box. The carpet could be getting wet from the A/C evaporator dripping and the drain to the outside being plugged.

I just looked at the tag on my truck and its 8800 GVW also. Of course its been lifted so anything with the factory springs or shocks is out the window. I do know that the rear was lifted with blocks and has a thick add a leaf. It also has the overload spring brackets on the frame rail but no overload springs so whoever lifted the truck either found them unnecessary or didn't want to put them back on for some reason.

Just a random thought but for the snow plow package there would most definitly be a different damping rate for the shock and more than likely a different spring rate on the coil springs. This is just what I would expect if there is actually a seperate package for using a snow plow. Of course it couls possibly be just another thing listed so they can charge more for the same parts as a truck without the snow plow package.

The only way to change the road speed limit is through the ecm with either Insite software from cummin or something like a prolink diagnostic tool with the right cartridge in it. I wondered what the serial number was so I could look up the fuel system. Then I thought about it again and realised it didn't matter since if it has an ECM stuck on the side of it the only way to change it is through the ECM or to trick the speedometer to make the truck think its going slower than it actually is, which could actually cause problems with setting other codes and possibly causing it to derate the amount of available power.

They are usually located there but can also be on the rocker housing just under the valve cover also.

Happen to have the engine serial number?

Thats a VSS code, not ABS. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2583-P0500-No-Vehicle-Speed-Sensor-Signal. Not sure why you would get that code with the ABS light and brake light. Double check the ABS sensor wires for damage and make sure thwy are plugged in. I've been guilty of that one before.

Just thought it could possibly be a weak alternator. So when the A/C clutch engages the amperage draw is overloading the alternator causing excessive drag on the belt slowing the RPM's.

Was going through some things I missed being a late joiner. Had a thought about what his problem could be so thought I'd ask if he had found what it was.

Have you ever gotten to the bottom of your issue?

Not implying you would try it, but DON'T hit the end of the axle with a hammer to get it to go in. I was out wheelin' one day and someone was changing an axle in the woods and thats how they decided it was best to put it in. One of those things to laugh at and walk away.

Too bad it would be beneficial for the vp trucks.

If my rebuild kit shows up in time I am planning on rebuilding transmission Saturday and making a how to thread. I seem to have back luck getting parts on time and them being correct so we'll see how it goes.

I would recommend draining and flushing the system. I have changed several GM cars and trucks over to good old green antifreeze due to DEXCOOL eating away at gaskets and seals in the cooling system. Have had to replace both intake gaskets and head gaskets from the DEXCOOL. Seems to be worse on compnents if the vehicle isn't driven very much.

If I remember correctly it has to do with the size of the lockout that the kit has with it that determines if the stock adapter will work or not. At the most if you choose to go this route you may have to have a minor bit of material removed from the inside of the dually adapter to clear the hub.

The adapter for the dually just bolts on. I believe the adapter you have on your truck stock would still work.

Not sure how much you are looking to spend or if you have any extra right now but you should consider the free spinning hub conversion. Here is one kit, but I think there are others out there. http://spyntec.com/category/dodge-00-02-spyntec-hub-conversion-kit/

The truck I have sat for about 5 years with a bad VP44. Been chasing little gremlins like sticking brake caliper pistons and slides. The parking brake was set when it started its nap so it took a while to get it all freed up and working again. Had 3/4 tank of fuel that had to be drained. Like Mike said, I had to change every fluid it had. Both batteries were shot as well. Belt had cracked and dry rotted and the first time I pulled a hill with it the temp got to close for comfort to overheating before the fan kicked in the first time. That seems to have started working better after that initial scare. I would definitely try finding somewhere climate controlled and that could help keep a lot of these problems from being there.

Anyone have any recommendations for a budget friendly rebuild kit for a 47re?

I was averaging between 16-17. Yes my truck is a 4x4. My RPMs at 55 MPH stay at 1200. Just seemed low.

I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to with the DP. Do you have a pressure gauge in the exhaust system or am I way off. :banghead: I know that with the VGT on the 6.0 powerchoke would actually spool at idle with something as small as the a/c compressor clutch kicking on. When they would spool they would close the vanes and raise exhaust back pressure but increase the velocity. Atleast thats how the engineer explained it to me. So until you actually reached around the peak torque range of that particular engine with the VGT the back pressure was higher than the boost.

Thats what I've been told, just wondering why bigger engines have them after the turbo. Maybe I can find a 5 gauge pod and run one before and one after since my exhaust system has a port for it after the turbo already.

I have to disagree with this, with the exception of being in low boost situations. The boost pressure should always be higher than exhaust gas pressure as long as the turbo isn't a variable vane turbo where the ecm pretty much makes the backpressure whatever it wants to. So the scavenging effect is greatly reduced if not eliminated in a forced induction scenario since the clean air coming in would force the exhaust gases out and thus eliminate the need to utilize the scavenging effect. I do agree that there would be a lot of turbulence created unless the whole divider is removed but don't think removing it would have a negative effect on performance. It certainly would on a naturally aspirated engine, but then we wouldn't be talking about turbos in that case. Of course I have been wrong before. This is just my