dave110

Little change of direction here. I would like to use my obdlink dongle on my 3 vehicles. Is there any way to save a vehicle in the vehicle editor so I don't have to re-enter everything every time I switch cars? Like download the app 3 times and have one for each car or something like that?

Good to know about the drain plug. I get a leak sometimes too. Might be clogged.

Yeah, go with the cheap pads and save your rotors. This is especially true with an early model that requires tearing half the front axle apart to change rotors.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think a leaky crossover o-ring could cause a fuel leak into the oil. A leaky copper washer on the injector would but not the tube o-ring. That just seals the fuel in the return side the way I understand it.

Agreed^^^^^. The tape is doing nothing. They just finally sealed themselves properly. At this point I'd leave it alone if it was mine.

Oh, I didn't see the CTM is on there. Yes that's probably the draw then. I plan to keep checking when it warms up a little.

I got to do some checking and noticed a 17.5mA draw on my power window/door lock circuit. Fuse #13. What makes a parasitic draw on a circuit like that? I assume a partly stuck switch but not sure how to know.

Thank You Much!! I now see what circuits it feeds. I'll pull the fuses (1,4,12,13,14) in the dash panel and measure across them to see which one is the culprit. Could very well be the glove box light. I seldom use the truck at night and it would be hard to see in the daytime. I have a copy the service manual but I never think to look there first. I appreciate you taking the time to look it up for me.

Pretty sure it was 2.8 and 4.4mA. I was never good with schematics but It is the 50A fuse right behind the 140A alternator fuse in the PDC labeled battery. The one in this schematic says junction block. Could that be the fuse panel in the dash? What is the normal mA draw on one of these trucks sitting not running?

These were a 36 month warranty but I get what you are saying. I'd never spend extra for a 72 month battery because of the pro rate scam, but I feel they should honor a 36 month warranty when they go bad in 26 months, especially when I have my receipt. Now I have more info. While they held 12.3v disconnected they were down to under 12.2 in the truck over night. So I pulled the wire to the PDC, set my meter on 200mA, and put the leads in between the wire and the lug on the PDC. Reading went off the scale. I pulled all the fuses in the PDC and one by one put them back in and checked the amp draw. The engine control circuit was drawing 2.8, and the hazard circuit was 4.6. No draw on anything else except the battery fuse, which sent the meter off the scale. So I have a huge draw on the battery fuse with everything else disconnected. What does the battery circuit feed? What should I be looking for? I had the LH fender replaced recently and they may have removed the PDC to access the inner fender. Is it possible a wire is pinched somewhere creating the draw? Help! I hate electrical problems.

They make a special compound called 'High Spot Blue' just for that purpose.

I like the calculator link but have 1 question. Which number goes in value 1 and which is value 2?

I agree, but would like to get warranty out of them. Guess that's like wanting to get paid more for doing less

Thanks. So I'm assuming the green range is considered good then? I had them load tested which is what brought this up. I charged them and let them sit overnight. Took them to Advance because they're under warranty and had them tested. They are 810cca and load tested OK putting out 440cca. Seems a little low to me. I asked how low they must be for warranty and was told the machine would know.They blamed it on a low charge when I brought them in, and I did probably take them off too soon. So after a full charge they settled in around 12.28 after sitting overnight. I'm no slop with battery maintenance having them usually last 8-10 years, that's why I'm concerned with these being on the low side after only 2 years.

After a full charge, disconnected, and standing over night at about 55 deg., what should a battery hold it's voltage at? How low is too low?

Hmmmm. Good to know. I'm told that bio will eat away at the regular blue rubber lines we use and you need to run the green (I think) rubber lines if you run too much bio?

Absolutely. And the 12 and 24 valves each have their distinct sound. Now these new ones I need to turn up the ole hearing aid to be able to tell what's in there .. I went with 5" when I did mine simply because I like the sound better. I would not have taken the old off just to do that, but it needed replaced any how and the price difference between 4 and 5 was not that great.

That's what I'm looking for. Real world experience so I know which ones work before I buy one. Both 75 and 77 look nice. The one at work here is a 33 so not sure it goes low enough.

They can be a real bear to get sealed up sometimes. Fine sandpaper is a good suggestion if there is a nick or roughness. I just needed to tighten loosen repeat for awhile even making them a little tighter than spec. Takes a while sometimes but you'll get it.

I was also in this situation once and believe me, a Quad XZT+, Edge easy, or Power Puck will make a world of difference for you. Like mentioned above though, you will need at least a billet converter and a valve body or shift kit to go with it. The stock converter will slip and a billet will slip without a modified valve body. Been a while since I bought mine but I think a Revmax TC and VB can be had for under $1000. Very worthwhile upgrade.

Thanks for the replies. I'll have to see what model I have at work, and I'll be looking on E-Bay for a model 77.

Yeah, I thought Fluke would be good too, but this one only has .1v resolution on the 0-200v scale. That's why I was wondering what others had so I'll know for sure which ones work.

I need a meter to test for AC noise. I was going to borrow the Fluke we have at work but I see even it only reads down to .1 acv. I'm getting a headache looking on the web and a lot of them don't offer the specs. for ac resolution. I didn't want to spend a fortune either. I'm wondering what the rest of you use that will read down to millivolts and won't require my left arm as payment.

Wellll this is different. Need to play around some.

Went for some more !