BioRam 2500

I don't think replacing the bolt will do much, and this is a strange leak location. Are you sure the leak is coming from the bolt, or is that just where the drip is falling from? If it is the bolt that's the source of the leak, I'd drain the t-case, pull the bolt out and put some RTV (gasket in a tube) on the threads and under the bolt head. Then reinstall and torque to spec, give it a day to cure the RTV, and service the t-case back up.

It's honestly not very loud, the turbo actually does quite a lot to quiet down the exhaust, and it's only 3" tubing. A straight piped exhaust in 4"or 5" is way louder. If I go to a turbo back system , it'll be a 4" with a performance muffler - those are supposed to be good up to 500 HP. J. Kidd can cut you a deal on one of those setups as well (under $300 if I remember right).

That sounds like a great reason to straight pipe that exhaust to me. I like the sound of mine with the muffler/resonator delete installed. It's not much louder than the factory exhaust, lowered my EGT's about 100 degrees, and cost about $30 to have a muffler shop fab it up for me to install. It's litteraly a "straight pipe" 3" tubing with flares on each end.

I don't know that much about rear ends, but that doesn't seem right. It shouldn't pull left or right when under power (unless you're doing some serious spinning). The straight when coasting thing does make sence to check though.

If i were running the test, I think I'd do 5 plus the factory sensor in the 6th position, so you can have a quick honest comparison between any of them and the factory sensor. My pick of five would be 100*, 112*, 123*, 132*, and 143*. These seem to be pretty evenly spaced apart temperature wise. Then if you find the engine likes one more than the others, you can reconfigure your dial to have more resistors that are very close to the one the truck liked the most, and test them out.

Rorary switch with different resistance on each setting - sounds like a great way to find out what your truck likes. Could it be used with the digital over head MPG display to show instant feedback? Lets say cruse controll on,flat and straight road (makes all conditions a constant and the only variable in the test is the resistor), and you switch between resistors and watch the computer change the MPG value before your eyes. I like the way you guys think.

"I have sent a querry to Quadzilla"Good idea, I'd bet that the R&D people at these tuner companies may have done a lot of the leg work on something like this for us. We may find that some milage specific tuning boxes do something like this already.

I ment what you said, it just didn't come out right. I was also adding a bit about taking it on a test drive to make minor adjustments.

Thanks for the photos. :thumb1:Is that just a slab of steel with a 90 degree bend? It looks like you bolted it to the Airdog mount and sandwiched it between the frame and the frame clamp. Am I right?

I'm more than happy with my Airdog 150 for fuel filtering and flow. I can't run the 2 micron filter in the winter though. Even with winter fuel addatives, the gelling fuel will clog the 2 micron filter. The 10 micron filter seems to do fine in the cold so far (to -25F). I do wish I had mounted mine like Mopar Man - in between the frame rails just behind the transfer case. He may have pictures or a technical drawing of his fabricated mount (hint hint). Just my 2 cents.

I was just thinking the same thing. I had to adjust it a bit when I replaced my track bar. All you do is loosen the clamps and turn the turnbuckle. Then check to see if you are turing it the correct way to center your steering wheel. Once you get it to where you think the steering wheel is straight, take your truck for a short drive and see if it needs any fine tuning. Once you get it where you want it, snug those clamps back down, and enjoy your steering wheel being straight again.

I'm no expert at this, but I remember hearing that if the steering geerbox gets adjusted as described in the TSB, it can get too tight (I think the term is the over center adjustment). That could cause serious resistance to the steering effort.

I'm going to need to do this as well. I've got a balljoint press (cheep harbor freight kit), and plan on replacing everything with Moog parts like Dripley did, and then have the alignment shop dial in the alignment per the above listed specs. I'll probably throw in a 1" front end leveling kit at the same time - I can hide the cost from my wife that way. Is it the concensus to install the offset bushings with the upper ball joints when doing this? I'd really like to do it right the first time, and properly fix the loose steering and wandering. I have faith in the "new" proper alignment specs.

My truck (1999) just has Rear Wheel anti lock system, but I had the same brake and abs warning lights on. The speedometer was also showing 0 mph until around 30 and then bouncing up to 30 mph and it was accurate over that speed. For me the fix was to replace the speed sensor on the rear axle. The sensor was cheep and available at the local auto parts store (or rock auto on line). I hope it helps.

My vote goes to Jacob Kidd as well. I bought some things from him about a year ago, when he was just selling threw e-bay. He was able to match the best prices I could find on the exact same products, plus he helped me get a 20% rebate from e-bay. He knows his way around our 24v trucks, and can tell you what works well together and what doesn't. Here's a link to his injectors; http://www.dieselautopower.com/Diesel_injectors_24v_p/dap%20injectors%2098-02.htm

You are explaining the same idea as I am concerned about. I knew it needed to be heated by hot engine coolant to aid the evaporation and prevent the regulator from freezing. I didn't know that the systems already draw off of the vapor side and protect from the liquid LP getting to the engine. Sounds great! I'll start checking the local craig's list for a decent DOT approved tank, and maybe check the local salvage yards. The local propane shop sells used forklift tanks for about $100, and steel mounts are on e-bay for about $20. I could use one of those setups, but they aren't realy DOT approved.

From what I've read it's best to draw the propane out of the tank in the liquid form like forklifts and vehicles converted to run on propane alone do. Then the regulator/evaporator meters out the correct ammount of gassios propane via a hose into the intake pre turbo. This way it prevents a splash of liquid propane making it threw the vapor style regulator (like on a grill tank) and blowing up your engine. Any good advice on companies that sell the liquid meassured kits? How about something that increases LP proportional to boost like the kit from ATS? Know of someplace to find a good price on a used 12 to 15 gallon LP tank for my truck bed? Thanks for the help. I'm learning a lot.

I think it depends on the specifics of the injectors. If the holes are to big to properly atomize the injection, or the injectors aren't balanced/pop tested to match eachother, economy will suffer and there will be more black smoke from the exhaust. Mildly bigger injectors (RV275's) or those with more similarly small holes, but more of them should do well mainitaining or slightly improving (through better atomization) fuel economy. The plus is that when you want the extra power it's available. If you aren't using that extra power, it shouldn't cost you any more fuel. It's just my opinion, I'm not an engineer. This is good conversation though.

Thanks. That makes sense. I was worried the results of adding the MPG fooler would be like stacking two tuners (a box and a program in the ECM). I've done quite a bit of reading on the use of propane and it seems to be safe, as long as you don't use too much, and it's properly installed and operated. The same can be said about a lot of performance products (or 2 cycle oil I suppose). The other thing I was worried about was severe knocking (pre detonation) and the subsequent damage. From what I understand, propane does have a lot lower self ignition temperature, and that is where the potential for severe engine damage comes from. The way around that problem is adding only small amounts of propane (pre turbo). This way the amount of propane in the cylinder isn't enough to ignite on it's own just because of compression temperatures - it needs the diesel injection to start the explosion, and the propane in there just adds a little fuel to it. A proper propane injection kit doesn't add timing. So, I think this MPG fooler will be safe to use with a tuner box and a conservative amount of propane. :thumb1:Now all I have to do is convince my wife that I need this.

I'm looking at ways to safely improve fuel economy (and possibly sneek in some extra power:evilgrin:). Propane here in Montana is less than $2.00/gallon as is the blue walmart brand wiper fluid (water methanol blend good to -20F). I mostly drive my truck empty and occasionally pull a travel trailer. My concern is the advancing of injection timing with the MPG fooler. Will that advancing of the injection timing be a bad idea when combined with propane and meth/water injection? I know that these "drugs" have the potential to really hurt our engines if not used in moderation. I also know one of the big risks with them is predetonation. I just don't know if the predetonation risk comes from injecting too much propane or if it's from excessive advancement of injection timing. Are they seperate issues - can I use all three together?

I'm really liking the sound of this propane injection stuff. Propane is under $2.00/gallon here in Montana. Also it shouldn't cause any corrosion issues in the steel cylinder head like water/methanol can.

If using both propane and water/methanol is predetonation still an issue, or is it a propane only concern? Can they both be used at the same time and compound the results? Is the predetonation hazard dirrectly related to the diesel injection timing - will something that advances the diesel injection timing like this http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/mpg-fooler/mpg-fooler.htm be counterproductive. Or, can it be used at the same time as these upgrades? I have a feeling the predetonation at idle may have been caused by too much propane - the flash point of the propane was reached in the cylinder as the piston was still compressing (and super heating) the air and propane. By lowering the ammount of propane being fed to the engine enough (or delaying the introduction of propane until 4 PSI of boost is reached), it is deluted with enough air that it's no longer really flamable, and is only a combustion aid and simply helps the diesel to burn more completely. I wonder if the water/methanol injection aids in cooling the intake air enough to slow the predetonation as well.

Any one think this might cause a complication if used in conjunction with propane injection? I've been doing some reading on that and thinking about combining the two. I'd immagine it'll be safe, but I don't know if the propane mixed air ignites faster or slower, and if the advanced timing wold still be ok. Both mods should give both more power and more fuel economy.

I'm waiting on a reply from Prowelder as well. It's prety much always cold here in Montana, so I think the results will be nice.

Sasqch, it took me a while to find, but here's a link to the article. http://dieselpower.automotive.com/146258/1011dp-diesels-dual-fuel-future/index.html