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BioRam 2500

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BioRam 2500 last won the day on May 12 2011

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About BioRam 2500

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  1. I don't think replacing the bolt will do much, and this is a strange leak location. Are you sure the leak is coming from the bolt, or is that just where the drip is falling from? If it is the bolt that's the source of the leak, I'd drain the t-case, pull the bolt out and put some RTV (gasket in a tube) on the threads and under the bolt head. Then reinstall and torque to spec, give it a day to cure the RTV, and service the t-case back up.
  2. It's honestly not very loud, the turbo actually does quite a lot to quiet down the exhaust, and it's only 3" tubing. A straight piped exhaust in 4"or 5" is way louder. If I go to a turbo back system , it'll be a 4" with a performance muffler - those are supposed to be good up to 500 HP. J. Kidd can cut you a deal on one of those setups as well (under $300 if I remember right).
  3. That sounds like a great reason to straight pipe that exhaust to me. I like the sound of mine with the muffler/resonator delete installed. It's not much louder than the factory exhaust, lowered my EGT's about 100 degrees, and cost about $30 to have a muffler shop fab it up for me to install. It's litteraly a "straight pipe" 3" tubing with flares on each end.
  4. I don't know that much about rear ends, but that doesn't seem right. It shouldn't pull left or right when under power (unless you're doing some serious spinning). The straight when coasting thing does make sence to check though.
  5. If i were running the test, I think I'd do 5 plus the factory sensor in the 6th position, so you can have a quick honest comparison between any of them and the factory sensor. My pick of five would be 100*, 112*, 123*, 132*, and 143*. These seem to be pretty evenly spaced apart temperature wise. Then if you find the engine likes one more than the others, you can reconfigure your dial to have more resistors that are very close to the one the truck liked the most, and test them out.
  6. Rorary switch with different resistance on each setting - sounds like a great way to find out what your truck likes. Could it be used with the digital over head MPG display to show instant feedback? Lets say cruse controll on,flat and straight road (makes all conditions a constant and the only variable in the test is the resistor), and you switch between resistors and watch the computer change the MPG value before your eyes. I like the way you guys think.
  7. "I have sent a querry to Quadzilla"Good idea, I'd bet that the R&D people at these tuner companies may have done a lot of the leg work on something like this for us. We may find that some milage specific tuning boxes do something like this already.
  8. I ment what you said, it just didn't come out right. I was also adding a bit about taking it on a test drive to make minor adjustments.
  9. Thanks for the photos. :thumb1:Is that just a slab of steel with a 90 degree bend? It looks like you bolted it to the Airdog mount and sandwiched it between the frame and the frame clamp. Am I right?
  10. I'm more than happy with my Airdog 150 for fuel filtering and flow. I can't run the 2 micron filter in the winter though. Even with winter fuel addatives, the gelling fuel will clog the 2 micron filter. The 10 micron filter seems to do fine in the cold so far (to -25F). I do wish I had mounted mine like Mopar Man - in between the frame rails just behind the transfer case. He may have pictures or a technical drawing of his fabricated mount (hint hint). Just my 2 cents.
  11. I was just thinking the same thing. I had to adjust it a bit when I replaced my track bar. All you do is loosen the clamps and turn the turnbuckle. Then check to see if you are turing it the correct way to center your steering wheel. Once you get it to where you think the steering wheel is straight, take your truck for a short drive and see if it needs any fine tuning. Once you get it where you want it, snug those clamps back down, and enjoy your steering wheel being straight again.
  12. I'm no expert at this, but I remember hearing that if the steering geerbox gets adjusted as described in the TSB, it can get too tight (I think the term is the over center adjustment). That could cause serious resistance to the steering effort.
  13. I'm going to need to do this as well. I've got a balljoint press (cheep harbor freight kit), and plan on replacing everything with Moog parts like Dripley did, and then have the alignment shop dial in the alignment per the above listed specs. I'll probably throw in a 1" front end leveling kit at the same time - I can hide the cost from my wife that way. Is it the concensus to install the offset bushings with the upper ball joints when doing this? I'd really like to do it right the first time, and properly fix the loose steering and wandering. I have faith in the "new" proper alignment specs.
  14. My truck (1999) just has Rear Wheel anti lock system, but I had the same brake and abs warning lights on. The speedometer was also showing 0 mph until around 30 and then bouncing up to 30 mph and it was accurate over that speed. For me the fix was to replace the speed sensor on the rear axle. The sensor was cheep and available at the local auto parts store (or rock auto on line). I hope it helps.
  15. My vote goes to Jacob Kidd as well. I bought some things from him about a year ago, when he was just selling threw e-bay. He was able to match the best prices I could find on the exact same products, plus he helped me get a 20% rebate from e-bay. He knows his way around our 24v trucks, and can tell you what works well together and what doesn't. Here's a link to his injectors; http://www.dieselautopower.com/Diesel_injectors_24v_p/dap%20injectors%2098-02.htm
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