Gregturley

Thanks. I guess i missed that

If this is not posted in the correct place please let me know. Today i started tearing down my truck to replace the tappet cover gasket and check for the KDP. When i pulled the rubber hose from the crankcase breather i found the nipple is broken. It has a big chunk gone. I cant see paying $100 for this thing. If anyone has one sitting around not being used that they want to sell please let me know a price with shipping to Kentucky, zip code 40216. Thanks in advance for any help.

I am thinking of using VHT all weather epoxy paint in satin black to paint this. Has anyone used this stuff before? Does it hold up well? I decided against powder coat because i cant easily touch it up. I have a habit of forgetting things and dont want to have to weld something else after its "done" and not be able to easily touch it up.

I plan on a Quadzilla in the future but right now the priorities are paying off some bills. If i can get a judgement against the idiot that hit me i am setting aside money from that (if he pays) for the Quad and a valve body. He has a court date for 3-28 and i will be there as a victim. I have an estimate for $2900.00 but theres no telling what the judge will do.

Mopar1973Man. Goal was build something as strong as i could that didnt weigh TOO much for as cheap as possible that would protect the rear of my truck. I have around $100 in this build. Im not whining about the weight but hanging this thing by myself for a few pics wasnt happening. Marcus2000monster Dave110 Thank you both. With all the traffic and lights around here I've been getting 12-14 mpg in the winter. Milage already sucks when 50% of my driving is stop and go.

This thing is too heavy to hang for some pics so these are all i got. Ready for paint unless anyone can tell me something i missed or something i need to add. I used the factory license plate lights. The leds are from Amazon. The trailer plug is newer ford part that has 7 way and flat 4 connectors under separate covers. From what i can tell gm, ford , and Mopar are all using something similar if not the same. I just used what was easy to find in Pull-A-Part. Lots of dead fords there. D-rings were given to me by a friend. He said he took them off an old wrecker his shop scrapped years ago.

I'm hoping the other guys stuff bends before mine does.

I found time to cut the holes for the lights and weld a few more things. Got the bumper welded to the brackets but forgot to take pictures on the truck. Here are a few of the rear.

Mine was not. I have a 2001 2500 that had manual windows, locks, and mirrors. I have lots of parts from my wrecked 95 3500 and i used the regulators, motors, mirrors, latches and wiring from inside the doors to put power everything in the 2001. I made my own harness that runs along the bottom front edge of the dash. You cant see it at all. If you do that just make sure you run it to where you can drop it to the floor and get the dash out without cutting wires or use connectors you can unplug.

Thanks Dmaney Dieselfuture thanks a lot for the build pics. They look really nice. I wasnt sure how i was going to make the front bumper brackets but after seeing yours i think ill copy your design. Your front bumper style is right along with what i have drawn up. Im going to have a winch in mine though. I too built a front receiver and have a homemade winch mount i can use in it and the rear receiver but that thing is 76 pounds. You slip on snow or mud carrying it you're going to get hurt. Homemade front receiver. When i build the front bumper ill remove this and build the receiver into the bumper.

When i park in a parking lot i usually pull the ball and put it in the bed. Locking tonneau cover keeps people from stealing it. I have seen what a small car does when its on the brakes hard and hits a truck. Car nosedives. Front end goes under the truck bumper and lots of damage to both vehicles. I saw a bumper take out a windshield of a Miata when the Miata driver didnt stop for slowed traffic. I have been hit in the rear 3 times in 3 different trucks. All 3 times i was stopped at a sign or light. All 3 times i drove off with minor damage. Say what you want but that ball mount will prevent a lot of damage.

Have you recently replaced the ball joints? I have seen new ball joints be so tight that they cause those issues. Sometimes its the joint being made too tight, sometimes its because one or more was damaged during installation.

I live in louisville ky. Around here the cops cant arrest you or impound your car if you are caught driving with no insurance. They write you a ticket and let you drive away. There is a very high number of uninsured drivers. Add in the texting/make up applying/nose picking/drunks/tweakers and you end up with a lot of rear end crashes. That mount does a lot to protect the rear of my truck. I have learned to walk around it and so have my wife and kids. Even the Chows know to duck when they go under for shade.

Thank you very much. Let me see what i can get together in the next couple days.

I'm short. Like 5'4" with my work boots. I was going to add a corner step like on the new chevy trucks until i realized the Mopar is too high for that to really be usable for me. I leave the ball mount in all the time. Its my 1st line of defense against retards rear ending me and it doubles as my step but its not much use if the gate is down. I think I will look at adding a brace from the bracket to the outside of the bumper face. That will triangulate it fairly well. Might use some 1.5" 1.20 wall DOM. Think i still have some from the cage build on my 69.

You have a very good point and thanks for the compliment. My brackets are 1/2" thick plate 3.5" tall and about 18"(?) long. 4 1/2" grade 8 bolts on each at frame. They go straight through the bumper and have a 1" hole for a D-ring shackle. You now have me thinking of adding a brace across the back of the bumper to try to prevent the sides from folding if hit hard. Maybe a 1/2"-3/4" bar about 3" tall and 24" long, with it standing on the thin side, or possibly C channel. It may sound stupid but i am trying to build it as solid as possible without adding unnecessary weight. I need to cut holes for lights and then build around those. Bumper on truck but not welded to brackets.

Thank you. Dont be nervous to try it. Mock it up in cardboard. Cut it out of steel. Weld it together. If the welds penetrate there's nothing wrong with grinding them flush and smooth. Its a great way to learn welding because you wont have to worry about burn through on 3/16 or 1/4 plate. Tack it all together and skip around when welding. You can't see it but I got in a hurry and made a nasty warp when burning in one of the top angles. I let it cool, cut out 4-5 inches of weld with a cut off wheel and the warp was gone. I paced the welds after that and had no problems. You can also weld from the rear where it wont be seen and doesn't have to be pretty. I will admit i have a nice welder and a plasma cutter at home. The plasma is an Eastwood Versa-Cut 60 and for a somewhat cheap Chinese plasma it kicks ***. I have cut 1/2" clean enough to use with no grinding of the cut line.

After getting rear ended by a loser with a suspended license and no insurance I decided it was time for a real rear bumper. I really didn't want to spend $700-1500 for a bumper so I started building my own. It's all 1/4" plate with 1/2" brackets. I got all the metal from Metal Supermarket from their cut table for 0.75 per pound. I still have to cut holes for the back-up lights, weld the bumper to the mounts, and either paint or powder coat it. When this one is finished I will be moving on to the front bumper. I plan to build it in the same style and have a winch mount. If anyone has done something similar i welcome any input, criticism, or advice. This is my first bumper build but I'm pretty happy with the way it is going. Ill post more photos after its comple.

I have the same problem. No blower on any speed or position. Then it will just start randomly and keep working until I turn the key off. This morning when I got to work I pulled the fuse cover on dash to check for power at the fuse. It was good. What I found was a bad connection on the output side of the fuse. If I push sideways on the fuse the blower will work. Push the other way I can make it stop. Try the wiggle test starting at the fuse and work to the resistor and blower. My truck is an ex fleet truck for where I work. The main reason for it's removal from service was the blower not working. Someone had put a fuse tap on the blower fuse. It looks like that damaged the terminal in the fuse block. I tightened up the terminal end (bent it with a dental pick) and so far it seems to be fixed. Don't overlook the simple things, and never underestimate the damage and problems that a "mechanic" can cause.

Joined beginning of September and have been checking out your site. Lots of good info on here. I recently got my first 24 valve, a 01 2500 qcsb 4wd. I was referred here to research the Quadzilla. Found that info and much more. I'm on a very tight budget and everything I do has to be low dollar for now. I just got finished with power lock and window upgrade using parts from my parted out 95 (the 01 is a base model ex fleet truck from my work). It's going to be an ongoing project for awhile.