pepsi71ocean

I leave my lines cracked and use my FASS to push the fuel through, some cranking here and here and once you get 2 or 3 lines bleeding fuel i should fire up.

I second the throttle body cleaner. I just find i bizarre that the pump is gummed up, unless the diesel is gelled?

I second the 320 Bar pop pressure. My Dodge with my smarty never ran so clean as it does since I popped them. My idle is so smooth the tach signal doesn't even move now lol Personally mine were popped to 322bar, but I think that when it comes to popping them higher that one needs to do it based on the size of the Injectors. I don't think 60hp Injectors will do well at 320 bar compared to say 100s at 320 bar.

@Shainer Sounds like it alright. My truck used to idle in the 870-900 rpm range, and the idle was cyclic. I can't remember about the low throttle/rpm operation, but I do know that you could feel a vibration on my truck in that 1,100 range. Mike had to advance his timing to a wicked number just to keep his truck happy. I do believe he said elsewhere that the more timing required the lower the pop pressure, the higher the pop pressure the more you can retard the timing.

IMO it depends on a mix of pop pressure and injector size with programming. Can you smell diesel? are you sure you don't have any leaks?

206 to 248 BAR is really low. How many miles did you have on them?

Currently ACE hardware has them, I just bought one a few weeks ago. I can get you a P/N for it. NAPA doesn't carry them anymore, god knows why.

I have an update here, finally was able to get into the motor and found 1/2" of oil in valley where the oil cooler is, and also found what i think maybe some engine coolant as well. I'm working on pulling the oil cooler as we speak, Just need to figure out how to test it.

My advise is to get a flax-plate if you have a stock one. Oftentimes the torque from lock up will rip the center out of the flex-plate, and you'll trash your transmission pump at the least, and the most destroy your transmission case as the TC spins around.

I would unhook the high idle kit, and use a voltage meter to check against the wiring to make sure you don't have a chaffed wire. if you do it would most likely be in the engine room My guess would be the IAT lead since it runs near the transmission harness.

Is the code only present when you have it switched to any of the modes?

Ah so is that because of the draw thought the switch? I noticed this started after installing my gauges.

I have roughly 3 years on my current set of USCG fuel hose and it looks like it did when I bought the stuff. I highly recommend wrapping your fuel line in crinkle tube.

I've always used the 50% brighter bulbs in my truck. But now I wonder how those work. It is ironic that my truck I can feel my headlight switch get warm, although I think that's because I have the instrument panel lights so dim, so it's easier to see at night. If I turn the brightness up in the daytime the Seth doesn't get so hot.

Can I ask what the difference is between the 9004 and the 9104? I actually thought it was a typo at first.

I used USCG fuel line, It was about $2.50 a foot give or take. Well worth the money because it has steel brads inside. and it works great for what I have to use. I should also mention I wrapped it in crinkle tube as well for added security.

I found the water hammer from the VP to be worse then from the fass side. I've did some experimenting with the location for the T fitting. I still have 7 feet of air tubing, and I used two grease gun hose sections to add as good protection against road debris since my T fitting is between the two.

Any gauge, and especially the sending units are sensitive to what's called the water hammer effect. Basically fuel like water don't compress well at all, and so when you have a pump the cyclic pressure vibrations will be transported down the piping. And sending units and gauges will pick up on these cyclic vibrations. Over time they will destroy the gauge/sending units accuracy. The best thing to do is to add in that t fitting and crack it open, just enough to get a reading, then have plenty of line to help asorbe it. Personally I picked a midpoint between the two, let the fass and the VP fight one another. Gotta love fluid dynamics

Hey Guys, So I'm in a pickle here with a 3.6L Pentastar motor. I've spent the better part of 4 days running searches on this and havn't had much luck. So my exe's car had a headlight issue, with the TIPM and I was able to get it fixed up. Ironically, I noticed her car was low on coolant, but I added some to it. The car was at my parents garage (where i was working on it), and drove about an hour down the road then called me and sent me a photo of what i found out was the low coolant light. As she was driving on the high way I was searching dash symbols on my phone realized what it was. The chimer came on and i told her to pull over and shut the car off. I got a second photo from her with the Temp gauge just below the H line It was about 7/8's of the way to the H line. By the time i got to her car with water she swallowed about a gallon of water. The cap had bubbled the fluid around the whole thing. (Further searching lead me to find out these go bad). I put water in and got a beautiful mix of oily browns and a white goop. Further flushing cleared out the block. After flushing the block again it was clear, put flush into it ran it for 20 or so mins with the old thermostat that was weak. When i was done I had more brown of the same consistency again. Today I spent for first 3 hours flushing again, and were back to a clean block, but I'm down another quart of oil. Car has 103,000 miles on it As far as I know the coolant wasn't ever replaced. The car swallows roughly 1qt of oil every 20 mins.(on flushing the block it did). The car builds pressure very slowly into the radiator when running, there's no bubbles or burping when running. With the car cold I ran a leak-down test on the radiator and I got a 1psi drop over 20 mins, and a 3 psi drop over an hour. There is no visible leaking on the ground. Scan gauge 2 when I hooked it to the car about 15 mins after she shut the car down read 221F. I'm unsure how hot it got. The oil is not milky or discolored. After flushing the car several time the water flushes out fine, but after running the car the brown comes back. and there are dots of dark brown that i suspect is the oil. I found a great website following the oil lubrication system between the block and head, and can't see to many areas where the oil can come into the system under pressure. I'm prepping to pull the intake off to do a compression test, however the car seems to start up, idle, drive down the highway/ idle hot just fine. I expect to see good compression, as the car runs fine, and i suspect that having a smooth idling/driving car should verify the head gasket. A few questions. Does anyone know if these 3.6L's stout? Or are they known to blow head gaskets? Do the oil cooler/filter assemblies known to leak internally? Is there a way to test the oil filter/cooler assembly? I'm suspecting the cooler assembly, but is there any other fail points where these can fail?

The FASS will also emit water hammer as well. I ran a needle shut off valve, followed by 2 grease gun sections, then another 7 feet of 1/4" air tubing to my gauge. The T is about under the drivers seat midway between the FASS and VP-44.

I will agree with this. At one time I was on the phone with the local Cummins mechanic at the dodge dealership (after i brought in our 08 dodge for the PTO flash). Anyways, he couldn't work on any of the Ppump or the Vp trucks as he was completely unable to diagnose these issues. I feel bad for bugging mike with my woes, but this guy made me feel smart. I just feel bad for the dozens of dodges I had to help him out with. I hope he learned something from it thought.

Is that a CAPS pump @04Mach1 It is a 5.9 right?

In the context of this statement I have to agree with @Bulldog Bosch knew about the upcoming changes in fuel. They knew about ULSD and thus also expected a lower life span. While they did argue with the addition of the additive packet to low the hfrr diameter though.

Conversely If the company makes customer service a priory and they are willing to help you out then your doing better. This is why i stick to DAP for my stuff for myself and other builds. I see your point, but to me even being reliable I'm more concerned about other issues on my truck then my VP-44. These trucks aren't built to be semi's and run 500,000 miles, and IMO the P-44 is the last of the reliable mechanical engines.. Jumping into the CR era cost goes up, maintenance schedules drop everything seems to become less reliable as time marches forward.

So I take it you use it for work? Do you do hot shot or something that requires it to always be ready? To me I've equated it to the cost of doing business, since once you leave the VP era your maintenance and cost cycles go up indefinitely. I'm really interested in you find out with that. I'm working on an injector pop pressure write up. See that is the other issue, I didn't have much of a choice in the matter, granted I don't like smoke but NJ has been cracking down on smoke now to where you have just under 3 seconds to clean up that tail pipe or else. At the time I was trying to find a way around tossing the smarty. Ironically the gamble paid off and currently I'm smoke free. Any type of injectors you buy with an edge or a smarty will have smoke issues if you go much over 40-50hp. Unless your ready to drop for a quad. Now I chose 320(was set to 322) because I was shooting in the dark based on a quad thread that @Me78569 had going. Granted going forward I want to see how long it takes before the smoke issues come back. But going from 300BAR to 284BAT, on 33,000 miles I think that 320BAR should drop me to 300BAR in 30,000 Miles and another 30,000 to get to 280-286 that I was seeing. If you needed to you can always order a new set and get them set to 320bar, and then swap them if your issue is time related, and not money related. It maybe better to get new nozzles and pintles while your at it.