pepsi71ocean

Mine are VCO, and don't get me wrong the main reason I pulled them was for smoke control and experimentation with my S03 Smarty. Mike and I theorized about the effects of raising pop pressure and the spool effects it would have with the smarty. Now we were basing the injectors on what they were set to to where I was which was 33,000 miles. I'm sure that If I wanted to I could have left them in, but the want to experiment was more then not. Raising the pop pressure I expect to go about 50,000 if not more miles on these before they are back into the 290 range. I think were not sure of the long term effects, but so far I've not seen any. Running larger injectors is just part of the game, pulling and shipping injectors for me was 5 days from pull till they were back in the truck. A good thorough PM needs to be done anyways on the truck. If you do go larger i suggest nothing over 100hp unless your going to switch to a quad. I think that anywhere up to 100HP with a higher pop pressure seems to solve a bit of smoke issues. For me and my Smarty It did. As for pulling them. I expect to pull them again and have them checked on my 40,000 mile PM, which included allot of fluid changes, and R&R work, so the truck will be down for a few days anyways. You should be flushing the Brake fluid, Engine Coolant, Power Steering Fluid, Transfer case, Fuel filters, drop the pan and do a band adjustment with a new filter, and do my differentials if you tow. For me that's usually 3 days worth of work if not more so it kinda works for me. Mind you i'll be pulling them to verify the pop pressure, but to me that's when I'll do it, and If not I'll reset them to maybe 325bar and see how that works then. There is a breaking drop of about 10 bar between setting and settled in pressure, so in reality I lost between 4 and 8 Bar in pressure after the settled in. Assuming this I hope to see much more service life out of these. One can be hopeful in this however. I wonder how that would change with higher popped injectors.

I have 100hp injectors set to 322BAR and I love them, good smoke control for me on my smarty. Just make sure you ask to have them set higher. My injectors needed to be reset at 33,000 miles. They were set to 300BAR when i first got them, and then they settled in to about 290, and were sitting around 280-286 when I pulled them. My advise is to go to 320-325BAR if your looking for 100-150HP injectors. I run a smarty so for me I needed the smoke control that I got with the higher pop pressure.

So does SAI rebuild computers then? Or what exactly do they do?

For me tuning the smarty really has required allot of intuition, Its not easily seen or understood what I'm feeling and hearing.

I think my record was a 1 hour and 15 mins. But I did do a Vp-44 in 4 hours before lol. For me valve lash would take a while because I really like to double check that stuff. Speed comes with doing it over and over again. What you don't want is to speed through it, and then find you did something wrong and fark up your engine.

I had wear on my ABS wires ironically, and had to adjust them, and then also the brake lines.

And this is driving down the road? If I set the smarty back to stock how would that compare? I know with my 100's would my truck be quieter in stock form? I guess I'm trying to get an idea of what it should sounds like so i can play with my Smarty's timing settings to see what the sound changes like. I know my truck is whisper quiet from 1,200 to 1,500rpm on the T4 setting, but should I try to move that farther up? @Tractorman may find this conversation interesting as he is playing with his smarty as well.

And you said SAI tested the 3 ECM's?

So its more or less a catch 22, as the retarded timing added by the raising of pop pressure is counter acted by the decrease in duration. How can you heard this noise when driving down the road? What does it sound like? I'll have to get back to you about the eschewed readings on the scan gauge with the Smarty. Would the guy developing the CCD tool be able to read timing?

Wouldn't the engine load gauge be eschewed because of the smarty being on the truck? Correct, which is why we were theorizing that raising the pop pressure would offset the timing. When you say you started to back down the timing your saying that is heading more retarded as it will quiet the motor down?

So can you state with any kind of guesstimate, by retarding the timing your doing what? I'm trying to understand what requires you to retard the timing? I'll agree with my truck even thought she ran for 3 weeks was smooth as butter at idle, but the rest of it is hard to estimate the effects that the raising pop pressure had on the dynamic timing not seen by the pump because it was mechanical.

Believe it or no this was my theory I had with raising he pop pressure of my injectors for my smarty. However, in this case we were hoping that raising tthe pop pressure would indeed help with my tuning on the smarty. @Mopar1973Man Do you find that your retarding the timing beyond the OEM timing? Similarly to how we were discussing the idea behind raising the pop pressure to help with the smarty and smoke/spool control?

I believe you may have a bad pin on the cluster pin that goes to the instrument cluster. There is a TSB out for this, and i know of this because that was what the shop that installed my built automatic said was the issue (which was irrelevant). But It maybe worth pulling the instrument cluster cleaning and hen looking at the pins. I worked on a jeep that stared with the tack dieing intermittently, bu then ended up becoming the whole cluster. It ended up being the plug on the back of the cluster. I'm unsure of the edge receiving the tach signal from just the CKP, as here is also a cam sensor and a sensor inside the VP-44 And all 3 must match.

I got my ruck at 44,000 miles with the first blown VP-44. Second one went out around 73,000 miles My advice is if your staying close to stock or under 400 hp, your best bet is to buy a FASS95, and run 1/2" lines from the tank to the Fass pump, then run he 3/8's line they give you from the fass to the Vp-44. I see a very consistent fuel pressure. I'm also running a fass 150 spring that's trimmed for me, so i see 18 at idle and 17 under load. All of my fuel hose is marine grade with the steel banding inside of it. it works great, Don't forget to add crinkle tube to it for protection! I've bought a bunch of pumps through DAP over he years and haven't had any issues

This article works great for diagnosis, I wanted to add that my issues were alternator created, but the ground cables going from the block to the battery was the cause for my lock up issue. While both were passing, the drivers side had a much higher resistance value then the passenger cable. Replacement of the cables was the solution and removed my lock up issues.

Yes I did. I'd keep the 75's and see what kind of timing you need to run like Mike was dealing with. That may give you an idea on what your pop pressure is. As for me your better off either sending them to DAP, or finding a shop. I've heard that checking pop is one thing, ordering shims for them is a different story. I believe for me it was $110 to get my injectors popped and reset from DAP.

Yes but this is assuming that he will get a Quadzilla. I think that it depends on what he's towing as well. Did you get the old ones popped for curiosity? For me setting the pop to 322 bar was well worth it in terms of smoke spool up control. with my 100's and Smarty. Not to mention that mine were at 280bar when I pulled them to get popped.

With an HX--35 your limit injector wise is around 100's for towing. Since your up at altitude I'd say your fine with them popped higher. But by how much It seems the 320 is a safe number to set to, Could set to 325 for added bump, but I don't expect to wait that long, I'll add popping injectors to my list of maintenance items along with the coolant flushes, at every 30K. From what I've read that the issue isn't so much the heat, its the thermal expansion being of different temperatures. Some have talked about running a 1/2 barb from the back of the head to the front for coolant flow. I'm running 215's as I'm a dully and I love the torque I have with this truck.

I thought I would post up some photos of the frozen landscape around here. For yaw to enjoy. Its been in the single digits and the lagoons are about 2" thick currently. Its been fairly cold enough out to freeze over the salt water and the cedar water around here. For salt water it tends to start freezing around 15-20 F out, standing water is closer to 25-30. But the tide movement breaks up the ice on its own when it cycles between 32 and above, etc. I was having a discussion with @Mopar1973Man the other night on the phone about the salt water, and its been years since I've seen Great Bay freeze up like it has to where it's thick enough to withstand the wave action and tide changes. This last one is the Bay, that rises and falls about 4 feet. The ice shelf goes out a ways now, I say at least 400 yards now. This was the other day. Here you can see where the frozen bay starts and ends before the fluid part of the bay is. Enjoy

That was some great timing, I look forward to seeing what you find. I sure know @Mopar1973Man is curious too.

Nope, but I've yet to see either of them exhibit signs of a restriction, they flow some serious air. I replaced the 6637 because it was "dirty" not because it was sucked in. Ironically If I had a outer sock like mike has I bet it would srtill be in service today. I may have to retire my 2790 actually for another 6637 because I have less room now since I added my pacbrake onto my truck, the location of the solenoid and the the dryer/pressure switch etc may cause room issues.

Yes it does haha. Especially since I'm down in Dirty Jerzey currently, even though the girlfriend lives in hamburg, I got to see photos of the snow I missed lmao. Even so dropping that valvebody tonight was brutal as the temperature dropped faster then my kerosene heater could keep up. Not to mention dead shoulders now.

If you dropped the valve body at all you need to go from P-R-N-D-2-1 wait then go 1-2-D-N-R-P in a really slow fashion so that the valve body has a chance to put Florida into every passageway.

I was taught something similar that I put into my install video. I don't rotate the injectors but I install the lock bars and don't tighten then down, but in do tighten the crossovers first then the injectors. I also loosen my blue lock bars too before tightening down the crossover tubes. It's saved me a bunch of headaches too.

Are you saying turning by hand, or say using the engine?