pepsi71ocean

While my mpg did improve it wasn't anything much to write home about. I'm still running my 200f in my truck and the scan gauge reads a consistent 193-202f with a peak of 210. But yes the HVAC box will melt your face off with a 200f in it. This is a different level of heat Mikey. I kid you not I can see 175+ out of my vents when it's below freezing out. It's nice feeling hot in the cab in no time, even on defrost. Engine coolant temperatures will change fueling and timing on a VP truck. We run hotter stats in the trucks at work. But there issues I have with running colder comes from tar buildup in the valves. I'll trade off a little idle time for a lower risk of tar buildup.

Sounds dumb but I thought DAP injectors where set for 300 bar? I had to go back and do some digging but that is what I remember they were back in 2013 when I put them into the truck. Since then I have added about 30,000 miles onto the truck and most weren't an easy 30,000 miles either.

My duration settings were always between 2 and 3, anything higher was to much smoke before the turbo would fire up. To me I noticed that Changing the timing setting and then the SW could produce grey smoke and not black smoke. Also could change how much smoke was produced as well. I actually thought grey smoke was bad, till I was taking to the injection shop the other day and he was telling me that Changing the pop pressure will change your smoke colors. Which I found odd. Although he said raising the pressure will effect where in the Piston the fuel hits the bowl. Which is he concern with me raising my pop pressure I'm mostly courios if raising the pop pressure a bit would effect that low end drag smoke I get for a few seconds before the turbo lights.

How long have you been running these at this pop pressure? I'm really thinking this is the happy medium pressure to test run. Even with the S03s limitations I have done allot of testing with the S03S to the point where I can get grey smoke and not black. So I assume that means the timing changes are before the smarty locks it.

When you say disregarded you mean shelved? I was talking to Mike about the touch, but I'm wondering if setting them higher may help with smoke control. Maybe higher more like 320 so that they settle down at 310? I did talk to a injector ship that is local to me that is willing to let me watch the atomazion and setting the new pop. They are a set of dap injectors, and if this shop didn't say they would have them back in the same day then I would have sent them out

Nick, I was talking to Mike, and I was thinking of 315 Bar on my 100hp injectors. What are your thoughts? Bear in mind I still have an S03, and I'm willing to play to see if I can get this smoke under control.

My evaporator inside my heater box was leaking. took a while to get a whiff of Freon on start up to conform. ended up swapping the dryer, and orifice tube as well. A/C works much better but I know the compressor needs to be replaced down the road.

Except our clutches are based on radiator temperature. That radiator needs to start passing heat past the clutch first.

I don't doubt, but I've rarely heard the fan lock up up here. I though all clutches locked up at 215/220?

I will say this, I have done some hauling with the 200F in the truck and I've yet to see anything over 210 for a open temp. and even so towing heavy stuff I see 197-202 with my 200F t stat in. The highest continual use I saw was towing a flatbed along I-78 from Reading PA to new jersey with my coworkers ford exploder on the back, and that was 215 at 70mph, under full boost. But it never went over that, and quickly dropped back to 197-202 when on flat ground. Conversely Our freightliners routinely see 220-230F climbing the same grades. Granted i do believe that the volume of coolant and the efficiency of the system is more then the load I put on the engine, but even towing a 12,000lbs 5th wheel camper this September I didn't notice anything abnormal, even with the 200F in. Even so, I do believe that for most of us here, a 200F will benefit more then it could do harm, and the GVWR of the engine and the coolant system as @Mopar1973Man man has said vastly exceeds the capacity of our trucks.

FWIW: I have found loosening the blue lock bars, and then tightening down the high pressure line nut first, then the injector, then the blue lock bars. I know it sounds strange, but I've notched that sometimes those lock bars tweek the lines just enough to not get a good seal.

Your input is appreciated guys! I'll start writing it up then.

I suppose I should write up an article for this, for future use. I've had no issues even when towing 10,000+ lbs trailers. its a solid set up, and like @jlbayes said, the extra heat is well worth the investment! Especially up here in PA where its 2F at night.

Let us know the Cummins part # for the 200F stat. I had issues trying to recognize the part number from the box. It's like they did it on porpoise. Yes, I know that there was a switch up on the part numbers, and I believe they switched the temperature ratings after 2008.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/583419-200-vs-190-thermostat-expierment-thread-2.html post #24- The # i got from dodge, the P/N was 68067109-AB. granted the 07-08 and 09 models I was told were 200F t stats. But it came in a Cummins box, so Cummins made the tstat.

Totally, You can ask @Mopar1973Man, I've been testing this for a few years now. It holds steady and will roast you out at operating temp. The T-stat cycles on the Scan Gauge between 197-203, and first open is usually 207-210. But as for a mileage difference I've not noticed much mainly because I'm constantly tuning on the Smarty.

Keep me updated on this

I currently use a Dodge 200F out of a 6.7L on my 99, and she runs 197-203 with a peak open of 208

Mike is there a way to update my table on the webpage, it won't let me add rows to it. I'm assuming I am doing something wrong here. Adding it as we speak once mike gets back to me Updated the table and website information.

I should note that I had stalling issues with my 60 and 100 hp injectors with my built automatic when it was cold out. @Mopar1973Man can attest to this. However with the proper tuning on the smarty, I managed to have a hand full of stalls this year. But it does seem to stall more likely when shifting from forward to reverse back to forward. When It's cold out I notice the rate of stalling varies, you can start in reverse and have no issues, or put it into drive and have problems, which makes no sense since reverse line pressure is significantly higher then drive pressure at idle. I'm considering pulling you 100's and sending them to you to have them reset to 330 bar.

Care to expand on your experience with the Auto ECU/Automotive Scientific Inc. group there @dripley Are they out of Tennessee?

The vendor I used is in Florida but has been verified as reputable. However i have also heard of issues with all computer resources.

@Mopar1973Man it would if i could locate my article. I'm confused as to where it went.

I've towed all summer long when doing my testing and had zero issues with temperature. I actually believe the radiator on our trucks is over sized for what we do. Ran our kubota tractor up to PA to do some dirt moving for a friend and had no issues moving up and down the foot hills. And summer here is in the 80's and 90's. I think to overwhelm the coolant system is asking to do more then the truck can pull. With that being said, i had the AC running and i did replace my clutch on fan clutch as well.

That look to be the correct part number, it is a 6 series that it starts with.