Ravewolf

So I did the wt ground mod on my truck, and also decided to clean up the spaghetti that was on my battery terminals for all my accessories. I wired in two battery bus terminals, and ran all my accessories to them(including the quadzilla module), and ran the power to the positive off the old alternator post on the pdc. Well, that was a mistake because my stupid self didn't crimp the terminal good enough for the wire that runs from the battery positive post to the pdc. It arced inside the connector, and shut the whole truck down. I fixed it right away, but it dumped the programming on my quadzilla. I managed to reflash it, but now it doesn't read the map sensor, and the truck acts like it's in limp mode still. CEL is on too. I pulled the codes, and it gave me a P1693 companion code, and also the usual turbo boost circuit low code. I cleared them but the CEL is still on. Idk what to do right now other than hope and pray it's some stupid fuse I popped, because I have a big trip coming up soon, and I have to pull a camper for 6 hours with this truck. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should do? Thanks in advance.

So I did a pretty big rewiring job on my truck(wt ground mod) and I also wired in a terminal buss system so I could clean up all the wires attached to my battery cables. I ran power from the alternator lug on the pdc system to the positive wiring buss. Well, my stupid self did the crimp on the cable from the battery to the pdc wrong, and it fell apart, and killed my truck. I figured it out and fixed it, but now my quadzilla module isn't working. So I figured I could reflash the module, hoping it would work. My current problem is I can't find the flash installer on the website. I'm using Me78569's guide, but I can't even find the quad installer. I did download the V2 flash from here, and it will open up a program, and I follow the prompts, but it keeps posting this picture. Is it me doing something wrong, or? I really need this programmer working because I'm going to be pulling a camper trailer about 6 hours away here in two weeks, and the truck runs like poop right now without the programmer. Pic attached is the error I keep getting

Sadly, very true. I was going to school for a 2 year AAS degree in auto service, and was a gearhead since I was a kid. So I have an unfair advantage I guess. But also most of my friends were gear heads too. We all grew up poor fixing our own junk, had to. But I work with a 18yo kid who's a complete animal when it comes to cars. He gives me hope lol.

Not even a mixed bag. It's a bag of **** with a few peanuts in it. I work at O'Reillys here in town and we've had a bunch of warranties on their ****. Also on Ultima Starters. So if you guys need parts, spend the coin to get better **** from online. I do not recommend anything from O'Reillys other than wix.

Tried that, still no dice. I think the cable is a bit too long. So I'm gonna have to modify the handle to make up for it. On a side note, I hate Dorman. They can make junk pretty good. But not parts.

I checked all that, the mechanism was ok. Has a brand new cable. I thought it was adjustable because the rods had screws on them. I did tighten up the little bolt in the middle of the mechanism, but like I said, it just needs that extra little bit to open. I'll play with it some more later when I get time and see if I can get it to open from the inside. I thought about just trimming the stops on the inside handle to get the extra little bit I need if I couldn't adjust it

So I've been slowly redoing all my interior on my truck, and I've almost got everything fixed, except the driver side rear door. It has a new cable, and Ive cleaned and greased the ever loving hell out of the mechanisms, but the inside handle still won't open without help from the outside handle. It just literally needs maybe a 1/16th more of movement on the inside handle. The outside handle will open flawlessly (two fingers to open it). I have looked inside and saw the rods have threads on them, but idk how to adjust it, or if I even can? Does anyone know how to do this?

That's the plan anyway. Idk what's wrong with the turbo I'm getting. I hope it's not the actuator because they're 1100. I know they sell vgt controllers too but they're 780 dollars as well. I'm hoping to build one myself. There was a guy on here that built one out of an arduino, right?

Ball bearing I think, and not water cooled. I'll have to ask them about it, but I'm pretty much giving up on it, and going to put that other turbo on it. Maybe I'll use the current one in a compound setup, or on another build.

It's a turbonetics, probably from the mid to late 2000s. I say that because it had an ancient edge juice with attitude programmer in it, and it dumped TONS of fuel before. I mean I could black out intersections with the smoke. The truck ran pretty hard then. I think it was built back when it was all about rolling coal and big turbos. Also, those are the numbers I got straight from turbonetics themselves when I called and gave them numbers off the turbo. It's not gated at all, not even a provision for a wastegate.

Turbo came with the truck. I realized I never had the tune loaded, and it was on 0. I loaded my tune again, and set the level to 5,and she jumped up to 26psi. But it's real peaky and short lived. I figured this turbo wasn't right for this truck, but it's nice to get second opinions because I'm kinda lost on diesels and turbo tuning. I found a used he351vgt from a friend I'm going to buy soon, but i have to build the computer to run the vgt solenoid for it after. I think it will rock with my current setup

Turbo specs are in my profile, and it's not gated. It's just straight exhaust out the back

So I recently got back into messing with my truck, and I've been messing with quad. Starting logging what my truck was doing with "hot" tunes, noticed I wasn't building boost beyond 18psi. It would build up to 18, then drop to 14-15psi. I suspected boost leak, so I made a janky boost leak tester (which failed epically), and found a tiny leak on the right side boot going into the inter-cooler. My former diesel professor suggested I use a smoke machine to check for leaks, which I did, and didn't find anything. I went ahead and ordered a cheap set of silicone boots for my truck anyway. I reused my old t-clamps, and although they were a huge pita to put on, I got them on, and got the clamps tight. Loaded a hot tune, and went for a ride. So far, I can hold boost at 18, but it won't go beyond that, because my fuel cuts off (I'm set at 3700rpm cutoff). I suspect it's the adapter for the outlet of the turbo, but I have it tight using the v-band clamp it came with, and the o-ring looked okay, not flat or anything like that. It also never leaked when I used the smoke machine before, and I made extra sure I had it seated flat before I clamped it. At this point, I'm at a loss as to why I can't build boost with this turbo, unless the vane's are junk. Or does it need more fuel? I'll post the log. iQuad-2021-10-09-05.51.061630790263729018886.csv

I completely forgot about this program until tonight when I was perusing the articles on quadzilla. I tried to open it with excel on my pc, but since I haven't paid for it, it won't let me use all the features. Or any of them really. I tried using the online excel program, and it won't even load there, something about Nick.skt (or something like that) won't load. Are any of you still using this, and how do I make it work without paying $99 for the damn license? I have tried a program called LibreOffice, and it will load, but again, the buttons won't work, and it won't load any of the exported tunes I've emailed myself. Thanks again for the help!

Thats the word I was looking for, needle valve. I need to adjust it so the gauge isnt trying to fling the needle off every second lol. I do have one though before the gauge connection. I just sometimes don't know if the fuel pump is priming right, so I open it a tad bit more just to make sure it didn't close by chance. I also believe 90% of my problems are from the bad battery on the passenger side, and the wrong key in the pump. But I got my biden bucks today, and ordered a beans micro sump, and a power distribution block to clean up the mess I have on the terminals. Once it's here I'm going to do the WT ground mod, and other ground mods. Thanks for all the help and info guys!

It's a mechanical gauge hooked directly to the fuel line, and I have a damper hooked in before the gauge hookup. Would it help if I moved it somewhere else? I just bought it for a temporary solution. I'm going to order a glowshift gauge kit here soon and redo it all.

I did not know this until very recently. Also, I found the key! It is a 036 after all! Thank god I found it or I'd still be chasing my tail!

Already got one on the way. I just wish I knew where the hell the old one flew off to. I remember pulling it out, watching it pop out of my fingers, and what I thought was dropping underneath the truck. I spent ten minutes with a magnet outside looking for it. It's either in another dimension (along with all the 10mms) or a damn squirrel took it.

Idk why I didn't think of it first, but I got a mirror, and checked the side of the pump. My old pump was a 027, and this one is a 043. I'm using the old pump key (027) in the new pump. Might explain a few things, eh? Lol. Sorry for clogging the board with my nonsense.

Is this where to find the woodruff key size? The side plate is too hard to read, but I found this on the body of the pump

Just a quick question, where would I find the numbers for the correct woodruff key for my pump?

Hmm. I'll check it out and see, thanks! The apps is a timbo apps off of here, so I don't think that's it. Would a bad battery cause all this? I tested my batteries just a few minutes ago here at work, and my passenger battery tested bad.

My fuel psi is a mechanical gauge, and I have it hooked in line with a damper. But I haven't adjusted the damper in a bit. Also, I checked for codes and there's none. If it was the vp44 it would throw a P0216, right? I've always wondered if the fuel pump was right though. It's a FASS titanium 150,with fresh filters. Idk how old it is because it also came with the truck. I will say it's not as loud as it used to be, because before, when I'd cycle the key, and the wts light came in, it would hum really loud, and the gauge would jump up quick. Now, not so much. I'll pull it off and see if I can find anything wrong with it. I've heard the check valve sticks sometimes in the FASS pump,and sometimes when I go to start it, it acts like it lost prime (takes a minute to start). This trucks hates me, but I'll play her games until she loves me. Also, update: I put the tow tune from this website on, and the truck hasn't sputtered or bucked once today. This is not to say I haven't been hard on the throttle though. Been real easy on it.

this is what it's doing

The turbo came with the truck, I didn't buy it. I'm thinking of pulling it off and selling it or keeping it for another project Funny you mention that! So the vp44 is a used one from a guy on ebay (quickdrawbrand.com). The key that came with the pump fell out and disappeared into the void, so I used the one off my old vp44. It was worn, like it was in there awhile, but I didn't think anything of it, so I reused it. I guess I order a new one now just to cross it off the list. I will as soon as i get a reading. Yours is a 5 speed too, right? Ive been trying to use the tunes you put out since you have big injectors too. But I think my turbo is killing alot of my power. The truck has never ever felt right to me. Always lazy, and peaky. Runs great on the highway, but an absolute turd in town.