CSM

Thanks Mike. Time to go play with settings again to find a happy medium of fuel and advance... I sure wish that we have the Smarty UDC for the VP trucks. I would be tuning like crazy... Well, if I had any free time. - - - Updated - - - I want to try that. I will sooner or later when I get some time.

Ok, The 2002 I have has 140hp injectors in it. The thing can smoke like a train fired on wet leaves until the turbo spools if I have the sub levels on the Comp over 2. It has good power and adequate fueling at higher RPM as well, and can overload the turbo if I am not careful. Overall the truck has more than enough power, I don't need more. I've lit up the new 285 BFGs on dry pavement while rolling before, much to the wife's dismay. :lmao:What I do want, is to keep the timing of the Comp at 5, while reducing a bit of fuel at higher RPM and a fair amount less at lower RPM. Ideally, I would change to smaller injectors, but since I have a smarty and edge, why not do it with electronics?The way I understand it, stacked, the fuel would come from the smarty, but the timing would come from the edge. All I would need to do is plug in the smarty and change the software.Would running the Comp on 5, and then running the smarty at 2 or 4 do what I am looking for? Less overall fuel, while still keeping the timing? I know Mike has played with this, but I haven't yet. I am also kicking around the idea of turning the comp off for the winter, and trying out Smarty's winter fuel software for A/T trucks... Anybody try that?

Now, just because a watery tart threw a sword at you is no basis of government! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS_1bzaj2fw&feature=plcp I figured we could all use some humor, considering everything going on.

Did ya see any MAFFS C-130 fire bombers up there?

+1

Threw a code this morning! P0122 on the ECM only. 1693 on the PCM... off to see what that means. And... Thanks to Mike: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/36-apps-sensor-error-codes DTC P0122: ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO LOW Description Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Possible causes are: defective APPS, defective ECM, defective PCM, or defective connectors or wiring. Testing [*]Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, check for ECM and PCM DTCs. If DTC P0122 is stored in both ECM and PCM, go to next step. If DTC P0122 is not stored in both ECM and PCM, go to step 8 . [*]Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS sensor connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If voltage is more than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to step 7. [*]3. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Measure resistance between terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short between Dark Blue/White and Black/Yellow wires. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. [*]Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short to ground in Light Blue/Black wire. [*]Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/White wire. [*]Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Reconnect ECM connector. Measure resistance between terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, replace APPS. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short between Light Blue/Black and Black/Yellow wire. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. [*]Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Using DVOM, measure resistance in Dark Blue/White wire between terminal No. 5 on APPS connector and terminal No. 31 on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace ECM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair Dark Blue/White wire. [*]Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of engine compartment. Measure resistance between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM connector C1. This is the APPS signal wire and goes to terminal No. 28 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to step 10 . [*]Ensure PCM connectors are still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measure resistance between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM connector C1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Dark Blue wire between ECM and PCM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace ECM. [*]Ensure ECM connector is still disconnected. Reconnect PCM connectors. Measure resistance between terminal No. 28 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If open short to ground exists, replace PCM. [*]11. Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance in Orange/Dark Blue wire between terminal No. 28 on ECM connector and terminal No. 23 on PCM connector C1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in open in Dark Blue/White wire between ECM and PCM. [*]Ensure PCM connectors are still disconnected. Reconnect ECM connector. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM connector C1. If voltage is more than .4 volt, replace PCM. If voltage is .4 volts or less, replace ECM.

Over the past few days i've found that there is a dead spot in my accelerator pedal where either right off idle or at cruise at about 1/4 pedal the motor will drop in output, and if in OD the converter will pop in and out of lockup as if I were making wild swings with the accelerator pedal. I haven't checked for codes yet, but I haven't seen a check engine light either. Otherwise the truck runs great. New batteries recently, and I really should check contacts and grounds, but its a weird issue regardless. Any bright ideas?

Airstreamlkswagon;60367]What changes were made at 04.5 and what are the pros and cons of either?

Looks like a clean install! Great work.

Our trucks radiators have plastic ends. Performance radiator has always sold me new radiators cheaper than a mabe fix for a plastic radiator. I don't know of anyone local that can cheaply resolder a radiator. If it were old school... Then a resolder is a valid fix, but I am not sold on a resolder for ours. If you are in a real pinch, Bar's Leaks works, but it will plug up your heater core and take some life out of the water pump as well. ETA: Also, get a longer hose, or do Mike's remote crankcase vent mod to get the oil away from the radiator. I've never actually seen a 2nd gen Dodge radiator leak (we've had 4, 2 gas 2 diesel, totalling 500,000 mi or so), but I have had them so gummed up inside and out they didn't work anymore.

Another thought thats recommended by some of the LE community on some other boards I frequent... Amazon, Costco and Sams have some pretty decent $300 closed circuit TV camera systems that work pretty darn well.

I am sure you ment relay... but just to be clear.

Preferrably a long gun, or a handgun that starts with .4! and bring all your friends who have guns! M-14 assembled by myself from parts and a head spaced action. LRB receiver, Krieger barrel, and GI parts. M1 Rifle is Korean war vintage Springfield Armory that was re arsenaled in 1962, sent to Greece, then back to the CMP.

You will enjoy yourself. Have fun ISX. And there are way more than that... if there is an IC (internal combustion) engine course after thermodynamics and heat transfer, take it if the instructor is good.

Man, that sucks. And I doubt there is a Cummins dealer around either. Sometimes I feel spoiled living in Denver... Gun shops everywhere, Dodge and actual Cummins shops all over, junk yards galore... Now if only there weren't so many people.

Yeah I do. And last I heard he was a Dodge mechanic in Grand Junction, CO. Its likely that Cummins has the box to run the VP at most shops.

Mike, I know you figured it out, but I wanted to add how to determine if the ECM is toast. The Dodge Cummins tech that I used for many years (before his moving away to get away from me...) used the Chrysler ECM tool that could plug directly into the ECM. Doing that, he could check parameters and look at the waves coming in and out of the ECM. He also had a separate pigtail that he could plug into the VP44 and run the truck with just the pigtail and check the VP separate of the PCM/ECM in the shop. Now, Cummins doesn't come around and teach this stuff to their techs anymore unfortunately... So you would probably have to find a Dodge dealer with a crotchety old fart that still has all the Cummins goodies from the late 90s. I wish I knew where to get some of the Cummins stuff he had... It would be great additions to my toolbox. When I had my fried ECM, this is how I narrowed it down, and it worked.

TV cable is worthless. You can remove it at the APPS.

Not sure if you can yet, but the service manual is in the downloads section of the site.

I would be concerned with fuel pressure or a lift pump on the way out. If it were an APPS I would think it would do it consistently at an RPM, not so intermittent. Even my FASS or Air Dog will do that though if the filters are dirty enough and I see a pressure drop at high flow rates.

These look like a high quality anodized version of a pump I am very familiar with... for about $200. I am pretty sure that you would need a regulator, as well as a reducing pulley/belt and mount, but for the DIY person with some time to burn... might be fun to play with. http://www.oberdorfer-pumps.com/Spec_sheets/N1000.pdf http://www.pumpvendor.com/Oberdorfer_N1000_series.html

Glacier National Park. Awesome. And you can hit Yellowstone/Tetons on the way.

They advised that I didn't need a flex plate unless I added additional power or had their full race valve body put in. If I had the full race valve body though, they recommended billet flex plate as well as intermediate and final shafts, as I would break stuff. Warranty basically covers everything but the shafts and fluid. As I had ATS install it, there isn't much they can say for proper/improper install procedure, and the way its explained to me is that they pretty much cover the internals for 5 yr / 500,000 mi and if I can break the guts, they will replace the parts. For the first year, they will cover shipping on trans or any parts that need replaced if I were out of town and did it myself or had it done. Their written warranty is a bit tighter than this, but I talked to the ATS guys that have been there for a long time and they said that they will pretty much fix it as long as I don't come in with the cooler lines disconnected. That was more of a look in the eye and handshake though, since thats not something they would actually write down. I think a lot probably depends on if I am an ___ hole or not if I have problems.

350-400 idle, 600-800 driving around, 1000 pulling hard, 1200 flat out for long periods at 40psi.

All, A while back it was requested that when I get my trans redone, I let everybody know how it runs... Since ATS is such a strongly debated company in particular. I went with the Stage 2 trans, and 1400 - 1500 RPM stall 5 star converter. I've had this a couple days, so all I have is reviews on basic customer service and how it drives. First off, it drives great. The low stall is a bit of a compromise, as I could probably be a bit higher, 1800 - 2000 RPM and I would be a bit faster and have a bit faster spool. However, I like the fact that I can grunt around town without having to rev. The kickdown is goodand seems to mesh well with my engines power curve. It doesn't feel like the previous transgo valve body and mostly stock components AT ALL! It seems solid, as any new trans should, and all the bits and pieces do what they are supposed to do. I thought about getting a Co-Pilot, but due to the stupid $$$ I spent at ATS already, I decided to see how it drives out of the shop first. At this point I am not getting a Co-Pilot, as it really doesn't seem necessary. The efficiency of the 5 Star converter is very good, and I really don't think I am giving up $600 in performance! LOL! Customer service on the sales side was good. I dealt with Patrick, and he was quick to respond to questions and what not. He was also knowledgeable and had answers for my questions that made sense and weren't just brush off answers. Due to time, I had the shop put in a new Trans Temp gauge, as mine died. I was fairly specific about the color to sales. Black face, green back light. Turns out they put in a white face, green back light. We shall see how good they are in fixing this, as it is probably an honest mistake, as I have white face gauges in there already that I am planning on replacing. The warranty and long term drivability will be something that I learn about as time goes on... But hopefully their trans does as well as some folks I know here in Denver say theirs have done. All in all, I am a happy customer in how it drives, the install through their shop in Arvada was painless, and I hope to not have to deal with the trans for a very very long time to come. Below is the trans I got for around $5300. Perhaps I overpaid a little, but Goerend has stopped selling transmissions, and Garmon/Sun Coast/BD seemed like a toss up compared to ATS right in my back yard. Plus, with ATS I didn't have to install the darn thing! [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=align: left][TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=class: bodytext, colspan: 2] [*]ATS billet input shaft [*]New performance direct clutch pack and steels with 1 added friction [*]New performance overdrive brake clutch pack and steels with 1 added friction [*]New performance forward clutch pack and steels [*]New performance overdrive clutch pack and steels [*]Low/reverse band replaced with Borg Warner Red Lining performance band [*]Intermediate/2nd gear band replaced with Borg Warner Red Lining performance band [*]1:3.8 band apply lever [*]Billet Band strut [*]Billet accumulator piston [*]Precision machined forward pressure plate (machined step) [*]Precision machined lower forward pressure plate (machined flat) [*]Precision machined overdrive brake pressure plate (machined flat) [*]New direct pressure plate [*]Performance low/reverse one-way clutch [*]Machined TV valve sleeve (prevents sticking TV valve) [*]Ability to achieve 1st and 2nd gear lockup [*]Ability to circulate fluid to the torque converter in park/reverse/neutral [*]Increase line pressure [*]Improve shift quality and firmness [*]Gasket and seal overhaul kit [*]Bearings and bushing [*]ATS 5 Star Viskus Clutch Drive Torque Converter [*]ATS Extra Deep Transmission Pan [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]