hdpwipmonkey

Here is the one I bought. Not the most expensive one but not cheap chinese-ium either. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5WHP2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 No issues with it so far. Been about a week or so that I've had it installed.

If it worked with the Quad unplugged but don't work with it plugged in then I'd think it was something wrong with the Quad box.

. You're having a stroke???

Does yours have the premium sound system (tweeters in the A-pillar)? If so, the aftermarket stereo power antenna (blue, I think) will need to be wired up to the amplifier trigger (Lime green). As far as the pink and white wires, looking at the wiring diagram the only pink wire I see is for the 12V constant (batt +) You can download the Dodge FSM from here and look at the wiring diagrams. That should tell you all you need to know.

Yep, that's what I'd suggest. No other codes after clearing the speed sensor code?

If the Quadzilla Adreneline is on level 1 (valet mode) it will fall on its face like that. Also if the turbo timer is on it will keep the truck running for a set amount of time or till the EGTs reach a certain temp when you turn the key off.

Thanks. I'll add those to the list next.

Well, I finally got the circuit breaker install finished. I also cleaned up all the extra cables going to the batterys so it looks much cleaner. I also left my grid heaters disconnected from the battery. I went with this circuit breaker https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5WHP2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 From this: To This:

Thanks everyone for your input. I guess I have some more decisions to make...

Thanks @JAG1 So everyone is saying to not buy the pre-made cable from custombatterycables.com and to just make my own? https://www.custombatterycables.com/Products/dodge-alternator-cable-4-gauge/ So: $21 for the breaker $30-40 for the hydraulic crimper ~$10 for the lugs ...about $60 to make my own. Why go this route over the $31 fusible link cable? Is it just because of it being a one and done setup and not having a fuse or circuit breaker to replace or reset? Thanks @IBMobile for the lug sizes.

So I did the WT ground portion but I want to finish it and move the alternator cable from the PDC to the passenger side battery. My original plan was to use the original cable from the alternator and cut it and run it to a circuit breaker then use more of it from the circuit breaker to the battery. This will involve buying the circuit breaker, some lugs, and a crimper for the lugs. While doing some research on which size lugs I'd need to do this job I ran across that custombatterycables.com makes an 18 in 4 gauge wire with a fusible link to run between the alternator and passenger-side battery. The price for this cable is $31.75. So now the question, do I buy all the stuff I'd need to make my own cable or should I just buy the one from Custom Battery Cables? To build my own I know it'll be more than the $31.75 for the pre-made cable but if the fusible link goes then it'll be another $31.75 for another one. Another question, if I make my own any one know what size lugs I'll need to be able to reuse the original alternator cable? Thanks.

type @ then the name of the person. Like @015point9

Go here and put in your VIN and it will tell you all you will want to know about your truck

Here is the Receiver that I got from Crutchfield. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X8800BS/Pioneer-DEH-X8800BHS.html?tp=72310 I've always been partial to Pioneer. This does Spotify, Pandora, Aux in and USB. Also has BT for streaming audio from your phone and for phone calls. It has a small remote mic that I have clipped to my driver's side sun visor. I also got the wiring harness and mounting hardware all from Crutchfield. When you go to Crutchfield and put in your vehicle it will show what receivers will fit your application and when you add the receiver to your cart it will automatically pop up with what you will need to add for the install. One of the reasons that I like Crutchfield so much.

80027 is the part number I got. I have tow mirrors and there is no interference. I got mine from WeatherTech directly and they are only $60 on their site versus $75 on etrailer.com. WeatherTech also has the ones for the rear windows too but they are glue on and I didn't want to do that again so I only got the ones for the front windows.

Another vote for the Weathertech in channel ones. I really like mine. No binding.

I am really happy with my setup. Its just the basic setup on the Retroshop site. I got the Mini H1 and mini gatling shroud. I also got the Morimoto ballast which I see Retroshop don't offer as an option now. They only have the Hylux 35W. Going from stock lighting to this setup was like... night and day

Oh, OK. I did new calipers with mine when I did the pads and rotors. I was having a bad pull while braking so I did everything (except hoses). In my younger days when I did brakes, I would change them and go. I didn't know that you needed to burn them in till I read the instructions on a set of PS brakes that I got for my Cherokee a while back. Oops.

As long as you bled the system well and did the burn-in like Powerstop instructions say you'll be good.

Glad you got it all figured out @dieseldon. As far as the extra ground between the batteries, I have not done it (at least not yet) and I have been running like this for about a year without issues. For your empty terminal in the PDC, you can use it to put your cables that you have running to the battery like aftermarket fuel pump, aftermarket headlights, Tuner, or anything else you have hooked directly to the battery. That way your battery don't look like a jungle is sprouting out of the positive terminal.

I've seen people talk about having good luck with Toyo Open Country ATs. I am not a fan of Les Schwab but now that I can get them at Discount Tire I think those are the ones I am going to try when its time for tires (probably before this winter).

I don't think that will be a problem. Most chargers are only 2-5 amps and this would be a 20A.

I think when I added my gauges I went off the fuse for the radio. Pull the fuse add in one of the fuse taps with your fuse for the gauges and put the original in it too, wire in all the gauges into the fuse tap and your are good to go.

That's not how I understood it... shows what I know. Thanks for clearing it up for the both of us @Me78569

It will be maxed out at 20. Pump low boost is where wire tap comes on. Boost scaling is where wire tap is maxed (full fueling).