Manimalmother

Have you confirmed flow from the lift pump?

Any codes? Are you getting fuel at all of the injector lines?

I did mine without removing the turbo. Back side, Midway up the collector. I drilled with the truck running. Used axle grease on the bit to help make the chips stick. Drilled in small increments. I tapped it the same way. Grease on the tap with frequent cleaning while the truck was running.

If mine had been the original I would have had it rebuilt.

The machining companies we use have some elaborate setups for boring these out. Hydraulic driven boring bars and such. I can reach down 7' inside a bore and weld it. Anything I weld they have to machine.

They use a very large boring bar.

Finished product. This is an Inconel Overlay for corrosion resistance.

Here is one of our Deep Bore machines. I use it to repair steam valves and overlay any kind of bore from 1.5" to 48". It's fully automatic TIG.

Good news. It was the starter. I removed it and it was an ultima. Replaced it with a new, non reman Ultima from oriellys. The truck started almost instantly. It was crazy how fast it started. I guess my old one had just gradually been slowing down and I got used to it.

Exactly. I'm gonna throw $30 at it and pray it works.

I'm kind of leaning towards the starter. I've noticed that when the problem occurs it turns over slower than normal. I am going to pull it and rebuild again. It's been a while.

As a welder I had access to a lot of 2/0 weld lead drops and we have a crimper that goes in our hydraulic press. I crimped mine and used the heat shrink with adhesive in it. I replaced every cable on the truck this way.

So it seems I have the opposite problem as the other thread. Mine cold starts fine. I wonder if it's my starter. It is original as far as I know. It at least has 160k on it. Batteries are less than 1 year old. I have put the HD kit in it from genos now that I think about it. No injector lines are leaking and the fuel return on the back of the head is dry, along with the Tee. I don't think it's losing prime.

So two times now in the past two days my truck has taken 5 or 6 seconds to start. On a cold start it starts right up. It seems that if I shut it off and wait 20 or 30 minutes is when the hard start occurs. If it sits for 4 or 5 hours again it's fine. If I shut it down and instantly restart it it's fine. No obvious leaks no smell of diesel fuel. I have a wait to start light and I can hear the lift pump turn on. No codes. Any ideas? Should have looked at the other thread first.

Digging up my old Post because I never finished it. I installed the new compressor wheel but it turns out the shaft was also bent. Ordered a new shaft and put it all together and it runs great. Definitely dropped my EGT's. The other day I was browsing Amazon warehouse deals and bought a Wicked Wheel 2 for 30 bucks! I know that these things don't do much for our trucks but I bought it because of how cheap it was. It had been returned by someone but never installed. I installed it this morning and cannot tell any difference at all. If anything it spools slightly slower than it did before. Oh well it was cheap!

I will Check out the MM3 options. I live just south of Charlotte, NC. This is going to be my wife's truck for the long haul. I do not plan on trading it in. If she ever gets something new it will probably become mine. I'll admit it's hard to get back in my 2001 after riding around for a weekend on air conditioned leather seats!

So I just bit the bullet and bought my wife a 2011 3500 laramie crew cab shortbed 4x4 It is bone stock with 71k miles. I want to do the DPF and egr deletes ASAP. There is so much out there for these I am overwhelmed. I want tuning that includes trans tuning for longevity. I do not want to turn up the power. What are my options?

Yep the one in 3rd gen works. It's almost exactly the same.

These were the lights I used : YITAMOTOR LED Light Bar 2PCS 18W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6TNWHW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I used existing holes where the hood meets the grill to mount them. Ran wiring through the stiffener channels on the underside of the hood. Brought the wires into the existing light enclosure and soldered them to the contacts for the factory bulb. The factory switch inside the bulb housing turns them on and off. the only issue with them is clearance to close the hood. The lights have to be rotated down parallel to the grill to close the hood, but it's super easy to do. The brackets they come with pivot.

I completely agree. I did it because the factory light was so useless it may as well not be there. It was just enough light to make incredibly angry.

Underhood light mid using the write up in the tech section. Love it!

Getting a little better with it. Learn something new with it every day.

Bought it. Thanks

Anyone happen to have an hx35 compressor wheel laying around?

Got the turbo back off and it appears that I didn't have the snap ring fully seated. Shaft spins perfectly fine. Coincidentally, here's a screenshot of where I was when it let go