Manimalmother

It was probably caused by whatever dummy rebuilt it.

We'll test drive was an absolute failure. Half a mile from the house I heard something let go. The noise it made sounded like a boot getting blown off. I shut it down and pulled over. First thing I saw was the large snap ring holding the compressor housing on had let go. Then I pulled the bhaf off and saw the damage to the wheel. Not sure what happened first, but she's toast.

Turbo is back together and going on right now! On and running. No test drive yet.

I'm just doing what DAP said to since I have a mill. Lol

This is a standard HX35. While apart for rebuild I am doing machine work per DAP's advice. Opening the hole and milling the divider allows the flow to the wastegate from all 6 cylinders instead of just the front three. Results in lower EGT's.

I'm an hour south of Dave and the winds picking up and clouds rolling in.

Well I got the housings back this evening. The exhaust side is ceramic coated silver and the compressor housing is powder coated "titanium pearlcoat". He then masked and did "holset" in gold. We'll see how it holds up! Mods to exhaust housing: Wastegate hole drilled to 7/8" through divider and 1" milled out of flange side divider.

Got the leak fixed last night. All appears to be well. Replaced the flasher with an electronic unit from O'Reilly's that is working fine.

Gotcha. Mine is blue and is Mopar. May be original. Signals work if I tap it with a screwdriver.

I want to change to push to connect fittings and a different line. I think it killed the blinker itself. I pulled it and cleaned it and it works now intermittently. It's blue and looks original. I don't have a fuse for turn signals in the cab or under the hood . Not sure which circuit they are on.

So I just got in the truck to leave work and noticed that my turn signals are not functioning. My windshield wipers will turn on with the multi-function switch, and my hazards work. No turn signal indicator is lighting up on the dash no audible click from the blinker. Any ideas? What to check first? Well I found the cause of the problem. The compression fitting on the back of my fuel pressure gauge was leaking. Ran down the line into the interior fuse panel. Fantastic. Closed the needle valve to prevent it leaking any more for now.

I will take some before it goes back together.

I'm using an HY style non divided gasket. I bored the wastegate hole to 7/8" all the way through the divider, then milled out about 1" of the divider. Its all at my uncle's shop getting beadblasted today. He is ceramic coating the exhaust housing and output and powder coating the compressor housing. I told him to surprise me on color so it may be interesting. Going to rebuild the center section today some time.

Housing in the mill drilling the wastegate hole to 7/8". How much should I take out of the divider? Should I continue this hole straight through the divider?

I'm going to go by today and see if my mechanic uncle has a pressure tester and will test it tonight. When the head gets pulled I'm considering having it o-ringed just because compounds may be in my future. Any downside to this? Should I go ahead and install new Hamilton springs? How torn down does the head need to be to go to most machine shops? I'm assuming completely bare. I haven't had any luck finding a local shop either @dripley . I found one but it had mediocre reviews and most of the negatives we're talking about how it took months to get parts back. I need fast turnaround.

I'll check tomorrow on the wetness. I'm not losing any noticable oil or coolant between changed. Arp studs are a definite when the head comes off. How hard is the exhaust manifold to get back on? Heard it's a bear.

When it bought it a 160k it already had an edge EZ. Still on it. Well hopefully @dripley has found us a machine shop!

Around 290k

The crusty yellow line. No oil in my coolant and I recently had my oil tested and it showed no coolant. Just going off the visual. It's not wet but is slightly greasy.

So Im in the middle of swapping back to the HY while I rebuild the HX and the sun caught the back of the block just right and I see this. I'm guessing it's the head gasket. Agree?

If you already have it in vector format it's super simple.

Not only is it windows, it's 32bit windows 7 "ultimate". Most likely a chinese clone. Finally getting the hang of it!

These 17's bolted right up. Center caps worked fine also. I reused my original lug nuts. The newer ones are metric.

No idea. I've never seen hand written Korean. Seems a lot less boxy than the typed version.

I can't read it but I can speak it some....I've spent entirely too much time there for work!