cuda

An update to anyone who reads this thread the new version of this radio with the same model number and seller has changed completely inside, it no longer works with the stock speakers with amp, the first version did but on mine the power button went bad so I ordered another thinking it would just slide right in no wiring changes etc. But nope. If you already have aftermarket speakers it will work out of the box.

Cool $600 sounds way better then $1200 for lights. Do you have to buy adapter wiring?

it says qty 1 does that mean $600 per side or for a pair? And do those hook to the existing wiring or are there pig tail adapters to buy also? I need better lights.

Mine is just using the stock mopar slave and master, mine where almost new so I used them. weird

There are so many things it could be but someone needs to pull it apart and check everything. The job is really not super hard yea the crossmember is a little bit of a *****. Things that come to mind are maybe the installers did not keep the pressure plate,clutch and flywheel in the right order? They come with a big paint stripe on them that SB puts on after they get balanced. Maybe the angle of the trans is slightly off and they tightened up like that on the pressure plate and then it is slightly binding? Are all (not most) of the rubber rivets in place? Then if that all looks good there is the transmission. Waiting hoping seems like it will cause damage to something. Good luck though!

My SB DD street clutch has been as advertised, shifting is slower than the valair I took out but not by much, clutch is quiet except when my rpms are too low for the gear I am in then it growls a little. Even reverse with a heavy trailer works which was one thing I was worried about from internet posts. Mine is the new style with the little rubber gromets on the center plate to keep it quiet.

Biggest bummer for the current nv4500 is just the plain lack of quality rebuild parts. I am always looking on ebay for oem gears and parts. But I think I will be doing a built G56 as my next project.

I have it solved now, I sent the question to the seller who then sent me actual pictures of the ports in back and the wiring. I had looked at the drawing that comes with the deck and had concluded that the video port in was the yellow one that was closest to the antenna port, but the images said no it was the opposite so I went out and took the deck out thinking it would be an easy fix (but I had already tried the other port before) hooked it up and yep no go! I thought maybe I got 2 bad cameras so I ordered one online, it came hooked it up yep, no go. Then just for kicks I hooked the orange wire off the deck (that is not used in the wiring instructions) to the red wire on the rca cable and the other end of the rca at the trailer hitch and bam on comes the camera. So really what messed me up was the orange wire the whole time and the new picture instructions just being wrong just took me farther away from figuring it out.

I am bummed I bought 2 of them one for the dodge and one for my work truck and they do everything they are supposed to but there is no video image when I go into reverse. The lights on the camera come on but the music does not interrupt. I looked through the menu to find anything to change but do not see anything. It is a real simple hook up yellow vid cable and red and black power. I thought I might have used the wrong yellow on the deck but nope tried both for fun. Any weird menu item anybody has found who bought one of these? Thanks in Advance.

When you use the 3 Revo settings the SW catcher you pick does not matter because you are using Revo.

Thanks just ordered it, now I have to list up my TST3 and smarty but I think I will wait till I get to the same results or better than I have now.

thanks! I saw a random screenshot that Mike posted and saw v2 and 4k listed and thought he and everybody else was using the 4k unit and didn't want to buy the wrong one.

The new 4k unit, does it also have the standard v2 version software in it so that I can choose not to use the 4k tunes and be a regular quadzilla? Is the 4k unit strictly a race unit? I want mpg but also when not towing to be able to create a good power tune. I still need to do studs but want to buy a quad and don't want to buy the standard one and then have everybody say "oh you bought the regular one bad choice" lol My revo paired with the TST3 is giving 17-21mpg but there is a tad amount of smoke that I think the quad could dial in a bit better.

Red line also sells trans fluid that says nv4500 right on the container and the weight is right for the nv4500 MT85, they also sell MT90 and MTL and MT85 is for the NV4500

The description of the gauge spoke of it but wasn't real clear Thanks I just ordered them.

The next thing I will install is that dual gauge to read my nv4500 and the rearend so instead of these manual flir pictures I can see things like me towing is 5th vs. 4th over certain parts of the freeway. I like that plastic cover you have Katoom I found the gauge at Genos but I don't see the cover listed for the dash cubby hole?

I would like to put one on my front end more to make fluid changes easy but I plan to upgrade the steering and have heard of a lot of complications with the Mytek in the front making contact so I will wait until the front end is all done and look at all brands when I have measurements in hand.

I have seen those not really buying it though.

Finally got around to putting my Mag-hytek cover on my dana 80. It stays cooler longer with the added 1 gallon of fluid in there. It cools down way faster than with the stock cooler. I went with Red Line 75w90 a quick $150 just to put a cover on lol. Here is a pic after a 100 mile drive on pretty flat freeway.

I bought the same one you had linked to when you bought yours, I bought 2 but because of clamps and the transmount I could only use one from the turbo back. But on my camera the top heatsink was way hotter than the rest actually looked like it was heating the tranny instead of cooling it. Now with the blanket on the nearest to the exhaust heatsink is very close to the others temp wise so I am getting benefit from this. Thanks for the link from your past it is what I used instead of measuring etc.! Oh I aslo bought the Mag-Hytec dana 80 cover too I just have not put it on yet, did you have to do the jb weld thing on yours?

Got my thermal blanket installed and did more testing no major improvement but the top fin is now very close to all the others in temp and the trans on the passenger side cooled almost 10 degrees. So it is worth it for any help from the big exhaust monster.

The camera is a flir e40 but it has been hacked up to their best unit a e60 (simple file change via ftp) It is a real accurate quality camera I use it to find water leaks in basement foundations and a few other construction tasks. Yea Katoom I read your post saying you had to buy bigger clamps and I just spaced it out and din't buy them. Clamps are not cheap either.

Yep thats it Katoom

I can't remember the guys name but I have seen his posts on here and other sites but he installed coolers and a heat blanket (not heat rap) I bought the same ones but I need bigger clamps to install them. I think they will really help with the close case contact and heat. I am pissed I didn't buy the clamps so that I could have got it all done in one shot but now I will have something to compare it to. lol

I installed some coolers from Genos garage. Now days there are a couple options, one is Fast Cooler that is a spacer that uses your original PTO cover, and the other is by Trans Cooler that is one piece and has fins inside. The fast cooler gives you 2 quarts extra when you install both and the Trans Cool only gives you 1 extra quart because of the fins inside taking up space that could be oil. I choose the Trans-cool version for 2 reason: 1: only one gasket to leak from instead of 2 per cooler. And 2: I thought the concept of having heat sinks inside may pull more heat to the outside. Who knows if it will and I might have burned myself out of an extra quart of cooling. Besides the quart mine give I added another quart in through the shifter tower. So six quarts of Red Line MT-85 It is real hard to direct compare before and after because the traffic for me living in the city changes so fast and so much. A 20 mile run to my shop this morning at 34 degrees outside with just the truck no trailer gave a case reading of 108 degrees with the factory mopar 85w oil that was getting real brown. The return run that had stop and go traffic but was near 60 degrees out was 108-110 on the steel case same point from the mornings measurement. But the new fins of the coolers heatsink where 97 to 113. And the close fin on the heatsink by the exhaust was 132 and 150 on the exhaust. I am adding a link to a thermal image and the regular image for clarity. The addition of using the Red Line 85 made no difference shifting wise from how it was before it is the exact same. \