IBMobile

Check that the vent hoses on the axles are there and no water infiltrated the axle housings and contaminated the oil.

Google push pin rivet. I picked up a spare in the pick apart yard.

A simple answer is yes, a 50/50 mix will work for your location in Texas. As the concentrate of antifreeze is increased the boiling point is increased but the drawback to that is at higher concentrations the ability of the coolant mixture to absorb and release heat is reduced. I experienced this in 1986 when a customer's car was running hot/overheating all the time. After talking to him he said that he had "flushed "the cooling system and fill it with 100% antifreeze. After draining and refilling the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze the overheating problem was fixed. The other import part of the cooling system to increase the temperature at which the engine coolant will boil is the system pressure cap. The higher the pressure the higher the boiling point. For every PSI increase in pressure the boiling point is raised ~2.5°F (1.39°C). There for an OEM radiator pressure cap rated at 16 PSI will raise the boiling point to 252°F (122.24°C). Do not go above the vehicle manufactures recommended pressure or failure of other cooling system components will occur.

Here is a chart to help visualize freeze point to mixture percentages.

This is part of the sacrifice they must be willing to make to the environmental Goddess Gaia, the preventer of global warming.

It sounds like the solenoid/Bendix in the starter motor sticks when very cold.

Some of us are of the mindset that you need the fuse, and some say you don't need one. You can do the full mod and install the fuss or circuit breaker later; just leave the cable from the B+ alternator terminal to the right-side battery positive post a bit longer to have something to work with.

Make a wind block out of cardboard, plywood, table turned on its side, and a tarp.

@wil440, what do you use to test the engine coolant's condition? I've been using these

May all that is beautiful, meaningful and brings you joy be yours this holiday season and throughout the coming year!

Why yes, there are plenty of snowflakes, but they all melt when they hit the ground and they don't amount to anything.

I use Wi-Fi for my phone and the laptop with no problem getting on this site. Somebody savvier than me will chime in. Help Mr. Wizard.

I'm still looking for a snow shovel. Can't seem to find one in San Diego.

I wouldn't do it. It is a lot of effort with minimal outcome for your environment. The time would better be spent polishing the rims.

You can control the FASS fuel pump, if it has a relay, from under the hood and bypass using the key by using a jumper wire. Attach the jumper wire to terminal 30 of the FASS fuel pump relay then the positive post of the battery to energize the fuel pump. This will turn the fuel pump on for as long as you want.

I'll be thinking of you when I fire up the Bar B Q this afternoon.

Did someone with Peyronie's Disease design that hitch?

Someone with Peyronie's Disease designed that.

It has to be either E-Brake controller or mystery switch; they will not work in tandem. I tried this when the E-Brake was first installed, and the torque convertor would not unlock unless it turned the ignition off. Made for a very exciting stop. I've been thinking of a work around design to try out later next year. Ok, no more hijacking this thread.

I'm still waiting for the fun part. Upload the pic and I'll flip it for you. My truck from 30 feet away at Grant Lake, CA while waiting for Mopar Man and Jag1 to finish their bike ride around the June Lake loop this past spring .

I just put on my tin foil hat and I'm good to go.

~30MPH When I say the E-Brake is on that means it is powered up but not functioning. when engaged it is functioning and slowing the truck down. If slowing down with the transmission in 4th gear and the E-Brake engaged the transmission will stay in 4th gear and the E-Brake will not disengage until 1000RPMs is reached at which point the transmission shifts normally. With the E-Brake engaged the 4-3 down shift can only occur manually, the transmission will unlock, and the E-Brake will disengage for the downshift. Once down shifted to 3ed gear the E-Brake will not reengage until the controller sees there is an RPM over 1500 and the accelerator pedal has come off idle circuit then back to idle.

Up shifting is normal. The trans will not down shift from O/D to 3ed with E-Brake engaged until the RPMs drop below 1000 or you do it manually.

With the E-Brake engaged, If I manually down shift from O/D to 3ed the E-Brake will disengage and not operate until the accelerator is depressed and released. I find this very disconcerting when trying to slow down. A manual override will give more control to the user.

Yes, there is a controller that keeps the convertor locked when the E-Brake is engaged. I installed one in the truck that was used to lock the torque convertor with my own mystery switch setup. When I installed the E-Brake I removed the relays but left the switch. I'm now thinking about using the switch to manually activate the E-Brake when I down shift and going slow, 2ed gear and 30mph down a steep winding road.