IBMobile

I changed the fuel filter the day before I went camping, 8-8-2013. My code reader does read live data and I have live data read out from 3 years ago that I can compare.

UP DATE: I still don't have full power. I checked the connection for the crank sensor, and it's OK. I found the data link connector for the Edge EZ unplugged and the grounds at both batteries a little loose. I took it out on a short camping/fishing trip this weekend and no power going up hills. The peddle is to the floor and barely over 60 mph. I think the air filter may be bad, being it's washable and it has been wash twice. I read some were that the element can brake down after being washed and restrict the air volume. I'm going to put the stock air filter back on and see how it goes. One more thing, there are no new codes. l

Sorry to hear about the tree limb on the hood ,more money out of your pocket, but a good deal on the used body parts. Here in CA a good 2 stage paint job goes for $1500 to $2000. You can go to a production shop ,like Macco, and get one for $400-$600 but in a year it will look like S%. Also out here they use a water base paint that meets the CARB (California Air Resource Board) specs. If I want a good job I have to go to Arizona or Tia Junana, Mexico. See if you can find a good painter that will do it on the side. Some times the guy will buy the paint and rent a spray booth. Call around and / or ask friends and coworkers what their experiences have been. Remember, just because the guy has a spray paint gun doesn't make him a painter . Good Luck.

Time for a heater core at the least. The heater fan motor may be on it's way out or it could be the resister pack, it's what controls the power to the fan motor after the fan switch.

You might be a little slow going up hills. My 5er's gross dry wt is 5995#, the gvwr is 7960# and the hitch weight is 960#. When it's all loaded up and I tow my boat trailer with a 14' Bass Tracker, a 110# outboard and fire wood stuffed in it behind the 5vr, the truck is on the helpers and 55 to 60mph going up a 6% grade. I estimate I'm pulling 9,000#, that's not counting the wife and all the junk she packs in the back seat of the cab.

Glad to hear it was an ez install and it looks good too.

Looks like you're going to have your hands full putting all the wires and plumbing in. Have a cold one and dive in.

I drive mine the same way as CAJFLYNN does, OD and cruise control on for most of the tow and OD off for hills.

I've seen a dyno test done on a street racer, a Honda I think. A stock filter v a bhaf in a "cold air box" v a bhaf in a cold air box with a 4" hose routed under the bumper for fresh air. only a small gain in HP was seen with the 4" hose.

Here is the closeup of the boost gauge at the bottom of a 3 gauge pod.

That's right. I took some closeup pictures of it an hour ago and need to have my son up load them. Hopefully they will be up tomorrow.

This is how I put in my 4 gauges. The one on the bottom left is my boost gauge.

That's a good idea. .. If I start to have problems, which I haven't, I'd put in an adjustable regulator.

Put a voltmeter on the battery and see if the the drop in pressure corresponds to a drop in voltage. Try to use a digatil meter and run jumper wires to the cab so you can watch fuel and voltage at the same time.

Pondsy, don't forget to flush the brake system. It needs to be done every 30-40k mi.

I ran mine all most the same route as Diesl4life but not up the trans dipstick tube. I used a tube cutter on the out line where it goes vertical at the right rear of the block. You'll get some fluid drain out but not a lot.

I like it! Now the big question, did you get a bear?

Mine was more like the corner of the overhang into the side of the trailer. punched a hole in the side. The R-V shop wanted $475 to repair it. A little Bondo with fiberglass, glazing putty, and a rattlecan paint job. The total time less than 1.5 hr, cost less than $25.......

Been there, done that....to a roof at a strip mall. These are the things that make it a memberal trip.

Is there any way to put 15's on ?

I was told by the dealer rep to use Charmin and haven't had a problem with it. I do like JAG1's way of finding what will work. Most holding tanks are about 35 gal + or - 5gal so it's about the size of a 33 gal trash can that you're filling, not that big, put in 5 gal and it's over 14% full. I mix up my own concoction; 4-8 oz of each: liquid laundry detergent, bleach, and Calgon or other water softener in a 5gal pail. I put about a gal in each of the kitchen and gray water tanks and the rest in the black water. I mix it weak for the winter and stronger for summer.

My trailer is 8k lb, an 04 built in 03. It came with Maxxes 8008 load range D tires. I put 3k-4k mi a year on them and they still had a lot of thread left, so that's 9 yr and about 36k mi. I replaced them last year due to sun rot with the same make and model. That's right, I didn't keep them covered....:banghead: I've taken it over a lot of dirt roads with no problems and tire pressure is 50 psi.

Installed the fuel boss about 1200 mi ago with an Airtex pump as back up. For the first 100-200 mi the fuel pressure would drop from 19 to 17-13 psi from time to time. The last 1k mi; cold 18psi, wot 20psi. and when it's warmed up 19psi, 21 wot. The drop might have been do to air in the line and the higher pressure when warm due to fuel viscosity.

Fuel filter was changed on 9-18-11 at 69,444 mi. It now has 74,523 mi. The boost PSI is the same as when it runs good and I checked the clamps not to long ago. There is no check engine light on but I just put my Matco Tool code reader on and it showed p0336, crankshaft position sensor range/performance, pending. In March I replaced that sensor due to a complet failure. The engine would start,back out of the driveway, check engine light came on and the engine stops. The code then was for a bad crank sensor. I replaced the sensor, cleared the code and have driven over 1k mi so the monitors would have reset if there were no more problems. I think that either it's a bad sensor from Nappa, or a wire/connector problem. I'll try to get to it this week. I'll clear the pending code, drive it for a while and see what pops up. Thanks for the help. I wouldn't have put the code reader on with no check engine light.

I'm towing about 9k lb and truck slows down to 35-40 mph going up 6% grades. I went up the same hills in October at 55-60 mph with power to spare. Then I didn't drive it until March. I installed a new heater core (which has no bearing on this problem), a new crankshaft sensor, and a Fuel Boss pump with a new Airtex pump as a backup. I also washed my AME air filter. After doing all of this I did a test run towing a car on a flatbed trailer from Ontario, CA to San Diego with no problems, 60 mph all the way. My fuel pressure is 18-19 lbs @ idle and 20-21lbs @ 1800 rpm and above. my boost pressure is 26 psi @ 2800rpm and drops as the rpms go down. Any thoughts?