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  1. Yeah sounds like a disaster for sure with Cascade... how do they intend on keeping regular clients with all that going on. For true transparency I really don't reccomend folks follow my lead and tear their trans down as far as I did, it's a ton of work, you need a decent tool inventory, and some serious help from folks like @Dynamic, reading their posts where they help others out, I read every trans post for new nuggets of info, I've messed some up some parts on my build for sure broken stuff did stuff wrong, over bought (like the overkill snap rings), but I really have enjoyed the process, it's been really fun. I have no help with this hands on, I had to pull it myself like most others on here, it's a ton of work just getting it all out of the truck and apart. Here is my build... Some of these part numbers are wrong, it's hard to go back and forth for those.. Goerend: Also a second billet intermediate servo cover, broke the first one.. They are like $16. Amazon: ATSG Book, Some misc tools, snap ring pliers, small spring compressor. Dr.. Tranny Lubegard 19250 (the green assy lube) Cascade: OD compression tool, sprag clutch, OD .215 backing plate, OD alignment tool. Rock Auto: Transmaxx A12650 Sprag (was not what I thought it was) this was the smaller one, 22002EF Rebuild kit ($66) I wiped out a seal, Snap Rings, Pump bushing D22034B ($3.43) messed first one up. Hardlines from trans to front cooler. I might replace these again with hoses, I liked that idea I found on here. McMaster's Carr: Loctite Green sleeve lock, digital caliper, long 10" feeler gauges (I thought it was 48pc, which it was but was like qty 4 of 12 different sizes it worked for some stuff), small feeler gauges. Small gauge block, 6" .500 wide metal ruler., Dial indicator. Pure Diesel: Bought before my rebuild, Genos Garage: this was a nice reuseable gasket kit and mopar filter: MOP-KIT-3515996TRANSMISSION FILTER/GASKET KIT ('89-'971 $21.95 American Cooling Solutions: (19868) Transmission Oil Cooler Dodge Ram / Cummins replaces 3926670, 4762090, 4746216. This is the one that the engine coolant runs thru, mine was shot crusty and seeping bad. https://www.americancoolingsolutions.com/19868-transmission-oil-cooler-dodge-ram-cummins-replaces-3926670-4762090-4746216/ Transfer Case: Torque King 4x4, that Vacuum harness is pretty slick for like $40, mine were really crusty and cracked. Harbor Freight: HD Trans Jack floor version, this worked great, an extra set of hands would be helpful pull out the whole trans and transfer case as one unit was a chore.. Could be some more misc stuff I'm missing here....... there's always one more thing.
  2. It's possible for sure, I just order online and stuff shows up, I have never talked to them. So far their stuff has been good. Some useless math fun...... Just a thought.........From my first order number in 4/4/18 to my last order number the numbers are 2,686 apart, guess 31 days in a month 15 months, it could be avg 5.91 orders a day every day. So they are pretty steady, and that could just be the online sales, that could be a totally fake number not used for that purpose at all... If they have a 1/2 of 1% accuracy that means 13ish orders are screwed up over that time,,,,, my guess is it's more that that. So yeah you always hear the bad stories over the good ones. I have successfully screwed up about that many orders (13) in the same time period and I'm no where near that volume of orders. I probably take that many complaint calls in a 2 day period. Wheres my quote, when is my stuff getting here, you said Tuesday 4 Thursdays ago. Very hard to please all folks but almosy all of them appreciate my efforts.
  3. Pretty sure my filter from Goerend is just a stock mopar filter, for my stock pan I went with the reusable factory one, my Goerend pan came with a simple cork gasket. I have had very good orders from Cascade Transmission, the owner was going thru some health issues last year so he sent some emails explaining that, like an out office reply, it said to just be patient they were short an order picker. I did get an odd bearing in place of a small part, I was letting them know and I sent the bearing back they credited my PayPal and I put a new order in for the part and came in a day or so. I have some of their specialty tools for the OD unit, worked as expected. Saved some money on those. Everyone has a different experience but I just ordered from Cascade 2 weeks ago, that .215 backing plate and a sprag clutch, the quality seemed just fine. Similar to the stuff I got from Rock Auto. RA has good stuff and you can pick your mfg of some stuff. Which is nice.
  4. Yeah take away is you need to do this under loaded conditions to get the real numbers.. if you suspect a cable is bad and it looks bad, I would try to clean it up and or repair/replace, no sense trying to prove a nasty looking connection is within specs. FSM is always a great first reference for this stuff.
  5. No DVMM has high amps. Need a separate Amp Clamp. Most cost effective use an adapter for your 117. They put out 1mv per amp so adaper plugs into the volt slot. Your meter has the following resolution so look up the ones that would fit nice with your meter and what you think your going to measure, so the cable fits thru the clamp. Or get a dedicated amp clamp, which when you go to DC Amps the price kicks up a bit for a Fluke. Like double the price of your 117. But ebay fixes that lots of stolen good quality meters up there, we have had atleast 8 amp clamps stolen over the years high quality stuff sold for pennies on the dollar. 4 were brand new in the box never made it to us......
  6. This was a good article I dug up a while back. https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/automotive/electrical-automotive-troubleshooting
  7. Thanks for the added info. Turns out my new (few months) caliper does not auto shut off,,,, well it does when the battery dies.. Need a new battery, I usually have a cheap dial caliper but thats at my work shop. Add that to the list the the "tips" list... keep a spare caliper battery... kinda like a DVMM fuse good like finding one of those local... I will measure my old parts as I know I put new ones of the same size and have all my old parts.
  8. Im 8 cans into that nest, my latest IR scan shows a pretty dark spot at that roof point, so its saturated really well now, they were pretty bent last night. I like the videos where folks use no chemicals and just a low powered vacuum. I would try that meathod had they not been so far up on the house. On the chemical side.... What I have learned is you have maybe 6s-8s of spray time and if you are going to use multiple cans, pull and hold till empty. If you stop near the end of the can and restart it atomizes (if thats a word) pretty bad and it will no longer spray a stream, so in my case being 26+ feet you need all you can get out of the can. The foam stuff works really well, coats the nest, the stream stuff is longer more direct spray, I always buy more then I need and can always return the unused, it goes fast. But thay nest is really thick so it takes a lot to saturate the thing.
  9. I don't think I have extra plates and fibers in the OD it, as I had one set left over they give you enough for a 48RE, I do have the stepped front clutch with the added plate and fiber, (I'm saying that location wrong, but the one backing plate was modified by Goerend) I think its a 3.8 front band apply lever. I've had it so long forget, bought most of my parts in March of 2018, yeah that ends in an 18.....🤔 Just going by the part number and description on their site.. Gorend: D73-LSA 3.8 On the end play yeah I have been thinking that one out, they suggest to only mess with 3 specific items if it's off, they just say no end play, will roll with that suggested .020" ATSG Reference #, my commentary.. Part #70, #1 Selective Thrust Washer on the back of the pump. (Mine was maybe a fiber washer) Part #105, #3 Selective Thrust Washer (odd triangle one on the back of the Rear (Forward) clutch.) Part #179, Intermediate Shaft Selective Spacer. (Back of shaft between OD unit and main Transmission) My guess here is the last one would be the only one to change as by this point the other two are going to require some "getting into", also I guess at this point I should have wrote down and measured those others prior of that last one does not work, too late for that, but thats a good idea for a tip for someone else. I measured and matched what was in there for the second one, the one behind the pump might have just reused that one? Can check my pile of parts. Maybe: "Measure your installed selective thrust washers and write those down, just in case." Unless that might be overkill, since I did the other mesaurements along the way maybe thats all accounted for... I have a Goerend Valve Body. I think there is a paper in the box. Has the better GM kit on there, they tuned it for around a 10k or less pull weight, they had a small list of questions and I thought there was a bench test sheet, but might be confused with the TC test sheet. Again been a while going from memory of a phone call had with them. But yeah Im going to try to get the basic air checks done maybe by Tuesday, I really rely on that ATSG book and Goerend has a nice supplement correcting the issues with that book, then folks like your self who help us common folks out with a wealth of info, it is appreciated for sure..
  10. Yeah I'm battling a Bald Faced Hornets nest on the house last two nights. Its 26' up kind a PITA to get to it. Used pole saw to pop a hole in it tonight they were pretty bent by that. I rigged up a line marker thing to adapt to the cans then put on my pole saw, consept was better then execution. It worked pretty well, but those cans only last like 5-6s then empty, a nest that big needed more then just one can, still dont think I got them all. Had a bat in the house the other night, no clue whats going on cant see how that damn thing got in, I did a pretty detailed review and still dont see the entry point....... Even tried my thermal camera no signs of a mass infestation. Bottom right are my footprints on the carpet.
  11. Yeah, I get it for sure was over kill to do all those, that OD snapring takes some serious heat for my .215 backing plate to be that blue. For a while I was not finding much wrong as I was tearing it down, till I found that broken Belleville. I also had the whole OD unit out of sight out of mind for a while while I did the other parts. Thats were all the bad stuff was going on. Made some good progress today. Got most of my main assemblies back in the case, pump back on and torqued down.
  12. I gave it my best attempt. I ordered every snap ring available on Rock Auto for the 47RE, some were duplicated in that they had a OD kit. So I have quite a few left over, then the master kit had some duplicates to that Rock Auto stuff, then I destroyed one of the seals so I had to reorder another $65 Transgo rebuild kit, so that has some extra stuff in it. There are a few others but here are some. I think there was one wire ring on the outside of the OD direct clutch housing, needs 2 the kit only had one, it did not appear to have any weight bearing on that surface was just holding the 2 parts together was very thin wire type retainer so I reused that one. The rear forward clutch with large Belleville return spring was broken, that came from Goerend they give you 2 sizes and you send one back. Thats why it looks like a "C" I think it was under $100 for all the extra snap rings, wish they had a master kit for those, but there are a bunch of different types. Its alot for sure but I did not need the truck. Did a bunch of research, I have a decent work shop at home, figure why not give it a shot, it sure is NOT the less expensive way to do it. Would have been a ton easier to have one built, but it will be mine when done, good or bad, no intention to sugar coat it if it goes south. So far have not cut corners on the build. Then,,,, I have all the stuff to do my 241LD transfer case, that was also in the cards, but need to get the trans together first. Time is never on my side... I have a 2yr old, one on the way end of Oct, run my own business with 3 partners and 15 employees, do a bunch of volunteer stuff for Habitat, don't think I knew how little time I had to take this on. So little bits at a time it will come together.
  13. Nope thats my garage at home. I have a 96' 12v, little over 200k on those. I pulled out what seemed like handfulls of fiber material, decent chunks on my first attempt to change the fluid, so from there I knew it was just shot. The previous owner said the trans needed work.... basically the truck was max 50mph was a bad 3 speed. There were a few times when it got stuck in 2nd gear. Which actually was fine for me, since I can drive 20miles to work and never hit 50mph, its all back roads amd smaller 2 lane highways, there is no spot where the posted speed limit is at 50. We still used the 12v for the farm pulling hay wagons from the field to barn, it was still a very useful truck before I pulled the trigger to rebuild. I also have an 18' 2500 gasser which has put the 12v on the back burner, since I have a working truck. Used that for hay this season. I'm pretty close on finishing the rebuild, have all the main sub-assemblies built up. The one backing plate for the OD was pretty heat soaked so had to order that just got that in. Other self caused / just not enough experience issue I caused...there are 2 sprag roller bearings I thought there was only one had to order those 2 times, the one adapter for my press did not work had to order 2 of those. The kit was supposed to have a sealing ring for one of the Sonnex front accumulator, that was not included, but I tried to dry fit the one they sent, that would up getting stuck in the bore when the smaller ring clipped into the retainer groove, so had to get a new piston....something happened with my pump forget exactly but that had to wait for a 2nd order. Its very hard to buy ALL the snap rings, that took 3 orders. The snap rings take alot of abuse, see post about them breaking, so I wanted to make sure I had all the right ones. So yeah its been a fun process I enjoy the time in the garage, some days are productive others frustrating when you need another part.
  14. Looks good. If you ever need a really nice finish that holds up to even light scratches give this stuff a try, its pretty. Awesome stuff. We restore all sorts of small and large mechanisms and the sort, good for hardware finish as well. We call it Galvabrite. Really makes a nice finish. https://www.apidistribution.com/crown-galva-bright-premium-16-oz-aerosol You can shop around and find it at different places, I get from McMaster Carr.
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