chllngr528

I have everything figured except where and how to mount the bracket. I just figured I would look on here see if anyone has one and what they did to mount it.

Because its a $150 tank heater that I paid $75 for. It also keeps the coolant at 140 degrees and is more energy efficient then the block heater.

I had bought a hot start engine heater from a buddy a year or so ago and am just now getting around to installing it. Well I am looking for ideas on how to mount it. The bracket they send you is absolute garbarge. So if any one on here has one please let me know how you mounted it. Thanks You can see a picture of the heater I here: http://hotstart.com/home/products/tank-style-engine-preheaters/small-tank-style-heaters-tps-models/

No not all trucks have themIf you look at your mirrors, in the bottom left hand corner it will have a little square with vertical squiggly lines printed/etched in the glass and you will have a button to turn them on below and to the left of you HVAC mode control switch (for 98.5 - 02 trucks) You can't just put heated mirrors on a truck that did not have them before without installing a new wiring harness. PITA

^ good advice. Check the stater relay, check your connections at the bottom of the column, and the starter contacts.

Dripley, I have run royal purple in the trans since it had 55k on it. I have only towed about 50K and it ranged from 10ft Jon boats to my 30' GN. The rest of the 150k I put on the truck was running from MS to NY and from MS to FL. I have never had any issue from my trans.Blueox, Research is what I am doing now and so far people have said "yea you need a 100T press" and "yea NV5600 are hard to rebuild" but no one has chimed in with any real experience on why. I mean the absolute worse case scenario is that I have to take it to a shop with a large enough press and have them press the gears on and off for me.

I run 6 qts of royal purple synchro-mesh and change it every 50k. With 245k and the fact that there was not that much metal in the oil last time it was changed, I have a feeling I'm getting close to a rebuild. I understand the concept "if its not broke don't fix it" but I don't like running stuff to complete failure nor do I like be stuck on the side of the road.

Blueox01, When I changed my trans fluid it looked like there was a glitter factory hard at work inside and yes I have a 4x4. Not making any noises or giving any problems but I like to be proactive on things.

Ok let me go another way with this question.........has anyone ever heard of converting our trucks to manual hubs using parts off a donor ford axle???

I'm sorta confused........what are you asking? If your asking what I think your asking you don't want the CON OFEK. That clutch is for transmissions with the 1 1/4" input shaft. Your truck has the 1 3/8" input shaft so you would want this clutch http://www.peakdieselperformance.com/catalog/item/4914492/4993122.htm . As far as the flywheel is concerned, you can take it to a machine shop (possibly NAPA) and have it machined true again usually $20-$30. Just like brake drums/rotors it has a min thickness so if you have had it machined before make sure its still within specs. --- Update to the previous post... Whoops, I looked at the WRONG OFEK clutch. I didn't look at the 1947-OFEK. The difference between the 1947-OFEK and the 1947-OFE is that the OFEK comes with a flywheel. If your flywheel is in good shaped (not gouged to heck and back) and you have not had it machined before you can save $200 and get the OFE. And to answer your question about driveabilty, I am running the 1947-OFE and like it so far. While I was breaking it in it was pretty grabby compared to the stocker. But after the break in period it feels only slightly more aggressive that stock. I have had it for about 90k and had no issues.

Craryville NY 12521

I'm in the market for a new steering gear box. Problem is I can't afford the one I want from Geno's Garage and I need one soon. I have had bad luck with Napa's reman gear boxes so they are also out of the question. So has any one had any luck with Advance or AutoZone gear boxes?

aWhasssupp!!! Come on how many people are on here from the NORTHEAST ? I would like to point out that New York is not part of New England as well :banghead: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_England

How long have you had the Adrenalin?

Yea War Eagle that's pretty much how I feel. It would take alot of miles to pay off $2000 worth of of hubs at 1-3 mpg more.......unless you count the the money it could save in unit bearings. But then your talking about 200k miles to possibly make your money back.

NV5600 6 Speed Specifications: Case:......Cast Iron Bellhousing:......Aluminum Alloy Torque Rating:......550 lb.-ft. Gross Vehicle Weight:......16,000 lbs. Gross Combined Weight:......26,000 lbs. Transmission Weight:......360 lbs. First Gear Ratio:......5.63-1 Second Gear Ratio:......3.38-1 Third Gear Ratio:......2.04-1 Fourth Gear Ratio:......1.39-1 Fifth Gear Ratio:......1.00-1 Sixth Gear Ratio: .073-1......(Overdrive) Reverse Gear Ratio:......5.63-1 Oil Capacity:......9.5 pints Oil Capacity with optional filter:..10 pints Recommended Lubricant:.....Chrysler 4874464 Input Shaft:..10 Spline, either 1.25" or 1.375" I believe that the was a NV5600 that was also rated for 650 ftlbs input torque in other then Dodge applications. Here is a link for info on the NV4500 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Venture_Gear_4500_transmission If you notice the NV4500 is rated at only 1500lbs less GVW then the NV5600. While I most certainly agree that the NV5600 is a more robust transmission, its still only a pick-up truck tranny, not a eaton fuller 13spd gearbox. While gears that are splined are typically a tighter fit then gears that are keyed, I still am going to need proof that it takes 100Ts to push the gears off. I'm not trying to argue with anyone. Just trying to gather facts, so if I am wrong someone please tell me about their first hand experience with rebuilding one of these transmissions.

So, I have been toying with the idea of getting the Dyna-Trac free spin hub kit as I hate non-serviceable wheel bearings, but 2Gs is alot of dough for the conversion. Do you guys think the hub conversion is worth the dough on a truck with 245k on it? I'm probably not going to buy them, just curious to see what others opinions are.

I've got the "necessary" special tools from Miller spx and a 25T press. I just really don't see how, if your properly using the press, it would take 200,000LBS of force to remove the gears from the shaft.

Well I am soon to be rebuilding the trans in my truck. I have rebuilt a couple of NV4500s and a few other manuals but never a NV5600. I keep hearing how the 5600s are hard to rebuild but I don't quite understand why. Anyone want to clue me into why they are so hard to rebuild? And please don't try to tell me I need 100T press to press the gears off. That has got to be the biggest load of crap I have heard about these transmissions. You may have the occasional trans that needs a little extra help but otherwise a 25T should have no trouble getting the job done.

I'm probably about to screw myself over but I have 150k on my VP right now. As for thoroughbred diesel, I think there customer service is outstanding. Some of their mechs don't know quite as much as they think they know but will bend over backwards to help you.

Hello group, My name is Sean and I just joined here yesterday. I'm currently a CM2 in the Navy stationed in MA. I drive a 02 dodge 2500 that I bought used in 04. I look forward to participating on this site.