JAG1

Update; after running return line in a bucket which revealed no restriction and doing some tests on the electrical (found minor voltage drop from bad alternator/ engine grounds) I went ahead and changed primary and factory filters. I found amazing amount of crud in primary with the factory filter discolored after just two weeks of short runs and about 700 miles. Started truck this morning and gauge is steady like it should. Goes to show it's best to drop the tank when upgrading entire fuel system. It will afford the opportunity to clean out and rinse the tank. As it is I will need to change the filters again hear soon and it's nice to know what the gauge will be doing when needing a change. Previous owner must have been buying stagnant fuel. Nice to have a primary filter to help polish the fuel as it circulates with return fuel. Also that return line going into the fuel basket causes only the cleaner fuel up the draw straw leaving more stagnant unfiltered fuel outside the basket nearer the ends of the tank. Better to run the return fuel elsewhere, down the fill neck perhaps to help filter the fuel in general and not let the hotter newly filtered fuel return so quickly

I did look at that and says all the technical advances but not what it's actually for or I missed something Thanks Paul for explaining. I should be still driving a buckboard .

50 demerits right there. Man... you got bad timing Okay.... What's this road surveying for? just to monitor the truckers? Or is it to help program self driving trucks? I'm old and think forward is going backwards

Will check today as I finally went back to the job and got the volt meter I left there.

I could attach a hose to the return line and run it down the fuel fill neck. Easy to hook up on a flatbed and can watch flow and gauge at the same time. Going to go over all the new fuel lines and make sure all is right plus look at the F/P gauge line. Mopar Mike told me a long time ago to NOT use a 60 gph primary filter. That's my faul,t I got cheap so that's getting changed to a 90.

It seems that the more simple, honest and peaceful Godlike aspects of life in America are disappearing, as I've known anyways, is being invaded in some form. We may think its because of this or that reason, yet to me seems more like a sign of the times. A penny for your thoughts and I thank you guys for helping in the forum and me on my trucks. Mike .

Grids are disconnected and lift pumps hooked to the battery with a relay. voltage at the battery is steady. Cannot understand why the above statement shows up just to post a reply. Matt, just want to say thank you much for that information. It's got me baffled. The dang gauge is doing different not understandable things. I will look for restrictions like IBM and you say and go from there. I have all weekend to do some testing but no new gauge till Monday. I will find it and report back, but thank you to you all for the help. Is there a half way decent way to test the overflow valve here at home? do a by pass or something to see if I can affect the strange pressure readings?

Grids are disconnected and lift pumps hooked to the battery with the ECM controlling the relay. Voltage is steady at the batteries so I better check the relay control coming off the ECM. It's weird.... you get going down the freeway and all of a sudden the pressure is way up to 25. Come to a stop and it goes to 21 that's after adjusting to 18-19 at idle. Fresh start in the morning it bounces slowly like a clock pendulum back and forth between 18 and 15. The higher pressure happens under increased rpms after trucks sits for awhile, 18 at idle but swings between 15-18 just sitting idling. No grids. Get going down the freeway and it goes to 25 Get to a stop after the freeway and it goes to 22 at red light idle. 25 again when truck gets going again. I better get a another new gauge to compare. I did not think that Isspro Gauges would have problems. I thought they were the best.

All new Mechanical gauge, big line kit, Draw straw, just tried second brand new Raptor 150 and fuel pressure goes up with acceleration and rpms. I adjusted to 18 psi but the dang pressure drops back and forth between 18 and 15 at idle..... you can time it with a watch, back and forth. Then when you rev it the pressure goes up way too high. Grid heaters are disconnected and I checked with a volt meter for voltage fluctuation but it's charging steadily when engine is running I switched to a different new raptor 150 today thinking it was the pump regulator... weird... because after you adjusted it to the 18 you get going down the road and the dang pressure goes up as high as 25. My 02 does not do this........ pressure is steady till you get on it and it drops to about 16 which is normal. Any thoughts....?

I saw one that did not start down at the dealers. The inside was well worn with a big air horn and wire tapped under the hood. No fuel system upgrade and the guy took his gauges off so there was an unplugged hole in the top of the exhaust manifold where the pyro was. Nice truck they said with 35 inch tires and aggressive tread tires with good size knobs. I ran

I think that is good perspective. If you have a good truck set up for reliability, I can understand thrill of some power mods, but if you got a good tow rig with all the needed aftermarket items to help the Cummins and truck be reliable... that's a good place to be. I just sold a first gen Cummins that took care of me and my constn. business for over 20 years. It was a sweet unbelievable truck that helped place us in a better financial situation not having to trade in every so often.

Trucks that haven't been messed with are generally sought after/ worth more. When I went looking for another truck I could not believe the crazy stuff I saw from previous owners obsessed with power mods. Some of them spent noticeable amount of money but yet no upgraded fuel system for basic reliability.

NPD Diesel might be a good one also. They give you a lifetime warrantee and have a good write up on ECM's. They talk about how there are only a few places the ECM typically fails. A guy on TDR forum liked them and posted he had good luck with them.

Yes.. and the new girlfriend needs to be taken care of too by keeping her comfortable. With a gal like that your going to need air temp blowing at about -10 degrees F.

Just a couple things I can think of; Dirt in the tank that gets in the way once in awhile. Sticky float valve, but hate to see you rebuild carb just on a possibility. Somehow see weather it's electrical or fuel related. I think next time it quits check spark .

That's amazing I had a Denso in my first gen that went 240,000 miles before showing any problem.

It looks similar though donut Mike? How long is your rv?

I think too big and it might be difficult to sell later down the road. I Think IBM's 5 th wheel is 28 feet. It's nice inside. I like shorter cause if you get nasty neighbors it's easier to get on the go again easier to find a place. Winter rv use gets a lot of condensation built up in the unit. Best to get a dehumidifier that's built in or has room for it. This is when good insulation package counts a lot. I think others use the air conditioning somehow in winter to reduce that, but a good dehumidifier will be the best with it's own drain into the plumbing. I would rather do like Dripley... get a little smaller and get the best quality. It will save you in the long run cause the words out that a lot of rv's are built not so good anymore. Stay away from the big flashy graphics and sticker paint décor on the outside if you can. Those sticker paint go bad and create a hassel.

make sure the tanks are enclosed inside the heat space of the trailer (winter package). Look at the undersides.. the best are enclosed with sheet metal. Also look to see how thick the walls are at the window sil for thickness of insulation and thickness of framing in the walls. I heard the best are built by Cardinal but I think those are 5th wheels. I think you'd be happier with a 5th wheel too. One of the most truthful sales people I met about construction and quality was in Milwaulkie, Oregon called 'B Young RV'. Go look at everything and study the construction and quality. Avoid getting taken in by the glitz just look behind everything you can to see how they care what they did.

I must explain.... The clutch was cycling fairly rapid when I began filling. It was cycling about every 5 seconds or less more like every 3 seconds. I put in till it read that I had about 200 lbs., about half the can of a 22 oz. can. I tried to add more to get it to go to the top of the range for my ambient temperature but it would go back down and stay at around 200 lbs and quit filling at that point which was in the middle for 67 degrees farenheit ambient. Earlier I had said that the clutch was not cycling but was wrong because I was looking at the back of the pulley and not the front. Getting older sucks... Thank you all for helping... tell me if It would be okay to use the system based on this update.

Tthank you for the link IBM. Before I got the link I recharged the system after finding the compressor was indeed working... I was looking behind the belt pully and you have to look at the front to see when the clutch engages. Brought the recharge up to the correct range for the ambient temps. Went in the truck and now I have cold air. I can only hope I don't cause damage to the system after reading IBM's link. I wish now that I brought it to an A/C shop instead IBM, should I just not use the system till I get it checked out? Thanks..

good advice Tyler, thank you.

Next IBM insists on bombin' my truck. He probly won't let me help for for $chit neither. That's right where the Eclipse meet and greet is... right? RV park with full hooks nxt door if you want.

I think most common problem is the leaks. I'm looking for the relay... next project test for 12 volts. Or should have what batteries are showing.

Blend doors work as they should. I will check on the compressor kicking in and condenser clogged. Just need to go thru process of elimination with the simple obvious items before I pay someone if you guys can help with that. Thank you. Update; I can hear the compressor kicking on with the 2002 truck but it does not kick on with the 2001 truck. Handy to have trucks to compare... so I should be looking at a relay perhaps?