CUMMINSDIESELPWR

here is a vid of the oil filter, the divets in the paper are from the tin snips. but look at all the material at the bottom of it... DAMN!!! dont mind the loud music my other phone was right next to the phone i used IMG_5907.MOV

oh boy where to start... cleaned all the greasy dirt off the block for the shop tomorrow, scraped gaskets off etc etc... started to investigate what the hell happened and how a 1/2" chunk of metal got into the top of the #7 main bearing and a 1/4" chunk in and around the #5 main bearing. i cut the oil filter open and it looked like a transformer had taken a dump in it as there were metal piles on the bottom. i didnt see any cuts of where anything could have gotten through but who knows. i took pics of all the rod end bearing and main bearings but ill just post the worst of them. i also took a pic of what the cooling jets look like in the block as they sit on top of the top main bearing and squirt up to the piston. the pink squiggly thing in the pics is my camera.

my pyro saved me from extreme engine damage, so i only have minor damage that im fixing. (full rebuild lol)

sweet tnx rancher

left as in driver side or passenger side? either way the front axle will need to be disassembled and the diff pulled out. get a long piece of allthread and washers of the same or just smaller diameter than the seals, drive old ones out then "pull" the new ones in with the allthread. at least this is how im going to do mine someday. replace both while you are in there.

so i got new rod bolts and head studs, can i reuse the crank main cap bolts?

anyone know how to get #1 piston cooling nozzle out?

block party was a success. i found a couple bearing were gouged bad on the mains, and some wiping as well, the piston was galled bad but not cracked. the bearings clogged a couple oil nozzles and the crank has a single shallow score on it. im definately getting new bearing as it needs it. ill post pics later im exhausted

i was wondering what happened hahaha

ok so i got metric grade 8.8 bolts, thread pitch matches perfectly and ill ensure the chain stays close to the block. the bolts are only 2.5" long to keep from bending and i got washers as well. I WILL be taking my time extracting and not to jerk anything around. this thing will maim or kill and that would be bad when i put it back in i will do it with the lift loops, the head will be torqued on the stand and valve adjustment done on the stand as well

just a quick thought, im going to be using bolts of the same thread pattern to lift the block with, is this not a good idea given the stripped weight of the block?

good point, ill ask them about that

new piston set arrived and i got everything tagged and bagged. cleaned the radiator and parts now to pull the block tomorrow yaaaay

he (lol) has about i think 215,000 give or take

actually took 3 days of 4 hr work to get to the point of the block being stripped in frame, one day to pull it then ill strip it all the way down in another day then get it to machine shop. while its there ill clean the engine bay real nice. it is going to be painted red and accessories and covers painted black

here ya go for now

i second the hydraulic issue, also see if it will shift with the xfer case in neutral.

ill get pics tomorrow and when i pull the block ill take a lot of pics of the piston and bore

hey rancher, yeah what i plan is just support the tranny with the floor jack in the same place it was when the engine pulls out, put a strap on it to ensure it doesnt move. when i slide the engine back in, aligning will be just as hard as if i was aligning the tranny to the engine. me and a friend did the tranny lift with a hoist when we replaced his clutch on a suburban, it worked great. i have decided to install the head while the engine is on the stand and do the valve adjustment right there too. This way i run no risk of effing the gasket up trying to do it in the truck. then ill install all the other accessories after. While the engine is out ill be washing the engine bay and making it perty and degreased. cleaning up the rats nest of wires on the driver side and redoing the fuel lines to make them nice as well. ill be hand cleaning everything that came out of the truck too so when all said and done ill have a nice perty engine bay.

i purchased a set of mahle clevite pistons for the HO cummins(of which i have) .020 over comes with rings and pins/clips $600

aligning the splines when i replaced the clutch was a beeotch, i just dont have access to a tranny jack. ill get it though

is it possible to pull the block without dropping the trans out? basically unbolt most of the bolts, hoist engine up while supporting the tranny with a jack then just pull the engine forward is what im thinking

yup, the only things im not replacing are the crank, con rods, cam and valve assemblies as they are fine. ill do plastigauge check before ordering bearings

i have decided to do a full engine overhaul with .020 over bore job and new pistons i am unsure if something also may have clogged the cooling jet but the block wash and check will ensure they are clear

there will be with an angled gearbox adapter