dennhop

5th gear did fail, but there's also something else going on in the front of the trans...I still need to pull it all apart, I just haven't had time to do it yet.

Two things....one, please make sure the tank is baffled! We had a 2000 gallon converted tanker, that some genius decided we didn't need to baffle the tank...yeah, after we rolled it, it either had to be driven completely full or completely empty...not fun at all! if the new Ferd is a 6.0, i would look into the remote oil cooler mount, as it will save tons of time and money when it comes time to replace it. If my neighbor could have afforded it, I would have told him to get one, instead of replacing the factory cooler. I did get to the point of being able to replace his and have everything buttoned back up in 6 hours though from start to finish. Not fun.

Well, I know it's been a while since I've been on, between a new job and life, it's been pretty hectic. Figured I'd drop in, say hi, and inform you that the trans will be coming out of the truck-blew 5th gear this week, and have something else going on in the front of the trans too. Uggh. Not looking forward to it! On a brighter note, we picked up a 2006 Jetta TDI, and I must say, I'm thoroughly impressed with it. The engineering, the small details, and the fuel mileage (47 mpg avg, in town and highway) I'm pretty happy with it!

I love driving in the snow...just not with a trailer. I'll drive around all day in snow with the truck as long as I don't have to pull anything.

I can't seem to catch a break coming north ..The last time I was towing from NC to IN, I had my buddies 40 ft tandem dual gooseneck I'd borrowed on the back. Got through WV fine, then hit a whiteout condition where I couldn't see past the hood of my truck. It was either stop where I was, with cars passing me like I was standing still, or slow down to about 5 mph and creep forward, hoping I could stay on the road. Luckily, a semi was doing the same thing, and came up to my left and talked me in to the nearest truck stop. I always make sure the cb in the truck is running on long trips.

I think when we turned around on the road back to the interstate, I don't remember coming out of 3rd gear....pretty sure I didn't break 20 mph the whole way back to the interstate.

Surprisingly dorkweed, no! I think it's because of the pucker factor...I'm still missing part of my seat cushion! I love my wife to death, but in the mountains in west virginia, I ended up pulling away from her more than once, partly because the truck has a nasty shudder between 55-65, so the only two options were to slowdown to 45, or speed up to 70...I'm comfortable pulling 70 on the gills, she wasnt, so I would speed up hill, then slow way down and wait till she caught back up.

The great news was that even with everything on the flatbed, and the trailer hitch part of the flatbed, my welds and mounts held up...not even a crack that I've been able to see...I was paranoid about that up till the camper yanked me around. And the fact that my wife was laughing at me as I was strapping stuff down on the flatbed - I lost count of hoe many straps I used, but nothing shifted so much as an inch...can't say the same for inside the camper - poor cat. He was NOT happy with me when I finally got to him after we got here!

I don't think I actually posted this yet, if I did, I apologize! Long story short, when we moved out of North Carolina, we loaded up most of our household goods into an ABF trailer, and then the wife, kids and dogs loaded up in the jeep, and I hooked up the truck to the camper. I had the stakebeds on, with ALL of my tools and a bunch of other items strapped down on the flatbed, and the camper was probably close to about 8k with everything we had packed in it. Got on the road, and headed out. We've made the drive to Indy a few times, but still use the gps. I decided not to use my phone gps, to keep the phone free to talk to the wife if I needed to, and used the Tom Tom...which is now in the trash. The Tom Tom ran us through West Virginia, but instead of running us into Ohio, which is how we've gone every other time, it took us into Kentucky. We pulled over for a few hours, and slept, then got on the road again about 530 in the morning. Because it was taking us a different route, we tried to get back to ohio, and took a shortcut...I don't remember the road name. As I was driving down the road, it was a slight hill, with mountainside on both sides, and then further down the road I could see a set of guardrails. The wife told me that there was a driver so close to me I couldn't see him in my mirrors. I didn't even know there was anyone behind me. As I was driving, the trailer hit a patch of black ice. I felt it kick out to the left, and back to the right, hard-hard enough I saw the entire side of the trailer in my sideview mirrors. As I was fumbling around in the dark, trying to find the trailer brake panic button, I realized I was getting far closer to the guardrail, and I had no idea what was outside the guardrails, as it was still pitch black. I figured I had no choice but to try and stop, one way or another, before I hit the guardrail section. Locked up the brakes, and the trailer whipped around and snatched the truck with it, ended up doing a 180 in the road. Slid off the road, and ended up on the shoulder facing traffic. The ONLY damage was the front passenger side of the camper was a little crunched in, where it hit the corner of the flatbed. My wife pulled over. The guy behind me, somehow never hit me, drove past, and at least another 6 cars kept going. My top speed when I hit the ice? 35-40, in a 60 mph zone. It pisses me off that people will see that and drive by. Thankfully, I was fine, and the wife and kids were fine too, but if it had been her, behind me, and I didn't see it, no one would have stopped for her either, and I wouldn't have known until I realized I couldn't see her headlights behind me on a corner...

I've heard a lot about ND and their hiring opportunities....If it wasn't for the fact that we have family and friends here I might have been willing to move there. Heard a lot about it and I like the idea of being further west and mor e out of the cities if I could, but I like this area.

Well, after almost a month of pounding the pavement, keyboard, and my head on the desk, I landed a new job. I start work on Monday at Poindexter Excavating as their shop small engine mechanic. Extremely happy to have the job, and excited about the fact that I get to work with my hands again. The only kicker was another job that I interviewed with and liked, called me back a few hours after I'd accepted Poindexter offer...I guess this whole civilian job thing I could have taken the other offer, but I told them that considering a good friend of mine had gotten me into Poindexter on his reference, and I'd already committed to them, that I couldn't back out now. Either way, I've got a job now, I get to wear jeans and a t shirt (and a beanie and jacket right now too!) to work, lol. After 14 years in the Marines, it'll be nice to actually be comfortable in my work clothes for once, lol!

I think I got the text fixed...not sure what happened there either, but it didn't look like that when I first posted it...should be a bit easier to understand now.

I would look into getting goerend trans parts over suncoast- IMHO the quality is the same, and goerend is far cheaper.

Don't do it! I gambled a few years back and had nothing but problems from a month after I put them in...and even under warranty, it was going to be at least a month according to glowshift before they would send me a new one...I ordered a set of isspro ev2s and I've had no problems with them. Installed a needle valve on the fuel pressure gauge and needle holds pretty well.

Just moved back to the west side of indy

Go ahead and send some more down to Indiana-I'll take it all! My neighbor just told me he'd give me his snowblower, since he can't use it anymore...good enough excuse to dig it out and try it out, lol!

I've heard of some programmers causing issues either surging during cruise control - don't remember which ones off the top of my head but I don't remember the smarty being one of them. My guess is that the cruise control being activate through vacuum still plays into the electrical signal due to the position reading from the APPS, which would seem to make sense to me. With the APPS reading at a certain voltage the programmer/box/chip is trying to adjust the fueling timing curve based off those signals. Since that is being controlled by the cruise, it would seem to me that there may be a delayed response by the programmer in adjusting the fueling timing curve when receiving input through the APPS from the cruise control system. Or it could be a delayed response on the vacuum side in trying to keep up with the control signals from the box. This is purely speculation on my part, but it seems to make sense to me.

A couple of notes from other questions I got: You need to take the mirror off the truck before performing this repair-you end up pushing and pulling on the mirror too much to trust that it won't break something while it's on the truck. There's no way of trying to reset the bearings in the mirror by fishing some sort of wire in between without taking the mirror apart...the mirror has to be taken apart to get past the spring and ensure the bearings are in their proper detent.

*Updated, with PICS*, because I was too pissed off to take any, but I decided tonight to fix my passenger side tow mirror, on the wife's 03. Her mirror was loose, and wouldn't lock in place, it kept drifting in while driving, and was annoying as all get out, so I decided to fix it tonight, before I picked up my 30 ft travel trailer tomorrow. Let me tell you a little about how they work. 1st, I took the mirror off the truck, easy enough. take out the screw in the top of the door trim, and remove the three 10 mm nuts on the backside. disconnect the electrical, and remove mirror from the truck. There will be a piece of foam insulation between the mirror and the door, remember to save that to put it back on. *I didn't add pics of this part, but this is probably the easiest part to do. I can't really take pics right now anyways, since the wife's out of town with the 3rd gen. Now, moving on to the slightly harder part.I discovered that the plastic trim on the mirror arm will come apart. I'm not sure if I actually needed to do this, but it definitely came in handy (I'll get into that in a minute). the front side just clips on, so if you're careful, you can pop the clips on it, and pull it back a little. Don't do what I did, and remove it completely, since there's a ring that goes around the mirror head-it'll break(it actually wasn't that bad, and with the mirror reassembled, you can't tell, but I wouldn't have done it if I had known it was a solid ring *some of these pics aren't going to be exact, due to the fact that my test dummy mirror is a little banged up and missing some stuff...but hopefully this will at least help show you what's what* here's where the tabs are supposed to be.... Second, take the back of the mirror off. Theres 4-5 torxhead screws, you'll need a bit to get to the one by the mirror head. You might not see this one, so at this point, flip the mirror up, and you'll see which one I'm talking about. *This mirror in the pics, is a Koolvue, so it has screws, instead of torxheads. Everything else is the same though.* (I popped the round cover off the bottom of the mirror before I did anything else) This is the cover to the pivot assembly. Here's where it gets really freakishly hard. inside the pivot point on the mirror arm, when you look in, you'll see a round retainer clip with locking tabs, holding it to the actual hinge. You'll need to take this off in order to reseat the ball bearings inside the arm. (NOTE!!!!!:::THERE IS A HEAVY DUTY SPRING BENEATH THIS, SO IF YOU DO TAKE IT OFF, BE CAREFUL, BECAUSE THE SPRING WILL SHOOT OUT AT YOU!) ask me how I know... Once that locking tab is off, and the spring has shot out and hit you in the face, you can now pull the rest of the hinge out, reseat your bearings, and put it back together.......NOT! The problem I ran into was that the spring needed to compress into the arm far enough for the locking ring to bite down on the hinge. This proved far more difficult that I originally thought, due to the wiring for the heated and power mirrors running through it. What I eventually did, and i should have done this in the first place, was cut the wires, and pull them out of the way. Don't even bother trying to work around them, as all you'll do is tear them up. Just cut them, and resplice them later. I resoldered mine, and used heatshrink on the individual wires, and then taped them up when I was done. *here's how the spring looks outside of the mirror* *Also, this is the part that screws up...* *Here you can see the notches, where the ball bearings are supposed to catch the mirror, to hold it in place...* *This is the bearings, in the bottom half of the mirror, in their proper resting places. There's indentions in there, so you'll know exactly where the bearings are supposed to go.* Once you've cut the wires, what worked for me was using a c clamp, and a large enough socket that the socket would fit around the hinge. This is key. if the socket won't fit around the hinge, it will NOT push the locking tab far enough down for it to bite. It took me about 15 minutes to get this on, as the cclamp kept slipping off the socket. Once it bit down, though, it was easy from there. I resoldered the wires, put the mirror back together, and tested it, and it works fine. *One last thing...When I had this ring out, I went ahead with a pair of needlenosed pliers, and bent the tabs back down a bit, to make sure they'd bite the post again.* *I didn't actually fully assemble this one, since there's really no reason to*

hang on, if you can give me a few, I've got a write up on how to fix this over on CF I posted up years ago...had the same issue with my 03 with the towing mirrors...

The diesel specific part is in the design of the connector...it's not an OBDII style plug, its the j plug, more commonly found on commercial heavy duty engines; it's a round plug, 6 or 9 pin. This is why they say diesel specific, and probably why they're selling it at Camping World, due to the class A motorhomes they service and sell.

I was running an Edge Comp, Airdog 150, and RV275's on my 01 when I ran it on the dyno years ago...with my Edge on 5x5, my max run was 332.21/741.94. with the Edge completely off, I ran a 251.56/578.55, with just the RV275's. Just so you have some actual numbers to go off of...the Edge was just the standard Comp, not the hot unlock. Now, after I added a few more items to it, well, the numbers were a bit different, lol.

One thing while we're on the subject of the CAD that I found out years ago with my 98 1500, a lot of times if it's doing one or the other (engaging/disengaging) but not both, is one of the vacuum lines will tend to break somewhere up the line-very inconvenient as you never seem to find out till you actually need it. What I did with mine since I found out the line broke while I was out playing around, was take the connector on the back of the CAD and flip it around-as long as you have good vacuum in one line, you can use that same line to suck the diaphragm back into place-whether it's 4wd or 2wd. All you have to do is ensure the shift lever is in the proper place for the vacuum line-ie if your 4wd vacuum line is broken, to get back to 2wd, you leave it in 4wd and flip the vacuum connector, and vice versa for 2wd. It's never a bad thing to periodically inspect the CAD, as Mike found out, because like others have said, it tends to collect moisture and then cause the diaphragm to rust and freeze up in there (I know that wasn't Mike's issue, but it's a common issue). Sorry for the lack of posting, I've been pretty busy, as I'm now back in Indiana. Had to pack up and move from NC back to IN in about a week, and start hunting for a new job-due to 3 surgeries on my ankle, and it not healing properly, the Marine Corps decided I was no longer fit for duty, and medically separated me. Been pretty busy with everything lately! Mike, please don't delete my profile if I'm not on for a few months...once everything settles down and I find a job, I'll be a regular on here again!

Hey all, finally figured it out! I'm glad you guys mentioned grounds, because that's what it ended up being. The goofy thing was, well, I'll get to that. So, testing at the back of the HVAC control panel, the line of wires starting at the top and going down:1. (thin orange) illumination2. (dark green) AC settings only (Max, AC, Dash/floor, defrost/floor, defrost)3. (light green) low fan setting4. (can't remember) next fan setting5.( think it was purple) next fan setting6. (black w/brn stripe) Max fan7. (black w/orange stripe) ground.At the fan, it was an orange wire, which was my 12V positive, and the black w/brn stripe wire. What happens inside the switch is that as the fan adjustment turns, it grounds out each setting of the fan respectively, allowing current to flow, thus engaging the various speeds of the fan. (I just figured this out tonight, in depth...) I did notice that with the illumination wire connected, as well as the ground (black w/orange stripe) the lights would activate correctly, after a few minutes of messing around. Then, I took the wires out of the connector, and started applying them one at a time. However, once I applied the max fan wire, it would short out, and the panel would go dark. What threw me off the longest was the fact that as I was ohm checking the wires, my ground wire ohm'd out as a short to ground every time...but it must have been a bad ground. I was testing it to the metal on the truck, so it appeared to be a good ground every time I ohm tested it. The reason I finally figured it out, was that I went to the fan, tested the voltage coming into it, which was good, and then reached over to the wires for the HVAC controls. I then touched the Max Fan wire (black w/brn stripe) to the ground, and nothing would happen. So, I disconnected the fan, and jumped it off of the power wire, and ran a temp ground to the dash with some loose wire. Fan kicked on immediately. Once I discovered this, I went and attached a longer section of wire to the Max Fan wire at the HVAC control panel. After applying power, (turning the key to the run position) I then touched the loose end to ground-fan started immediately. I knew I had a bad ground. Ran a new ground, and called it good. (Remember, my harness is a hack job of a 96 12V, 2000 1/2 ton gasser, and 98 12v. There's not a lot of wiring that is "Factory" any more)Like I said before though, the thing that threw me off for hours was the fact that the preexisting ground continued to test out good, every time I checked and rechecked it...so I kept going in other directions. Whatever it tested at, apparently wasn't good enough to make the connection. Control lighting is good, all the fan speeds work, the temp works, and all positions work...I'm good to drive, especially if I need to use the defrost! Thanks again for the replies, and like I said-they got me in the right direction!

I do have a ground the orange wire coming into the fan is my ground there's a black wire with a brown stripe that is coming off of the back of my controls. There's a black wire with an orange stripe going intoy controls thats a ground. I noticed that when my fan switch is maxed out, the black wire w/ orange stripe and the black wire with the brown stripe on my controls are connected-ie shorted out on the panel. Problem is something is shorting out the entire thing...is the black and orange wire not supposed to be a ground? - - - Updated - - - If anyone would be willing to call me if they've got any experience, I'd appreciate it...I barely get enough signal to get online outside, so I tend to miss posts or takes me 30 minutes to reply...