dennhop

Ok, so I take back everything I just said earlier...I had seen a different article, that didn't list the same information as this article does...All I had to see was the manufacturer of the diesel is VM...that being said, RUN!:ahhh:Same manufacturers of the 2.8 CRD in the Jeep Libertys. HORRIBLE MECHANICAL DESIGN. If I had to do it all over again, I never would have bought a Liberty CRD, and I never will again. Sure, it gets decent mileage, but as far as reliability? NOPE! So, I recant my previous statement. And plan on buying another 03-04 Cummins again, when I have the money...MAYBE, if I can find one right, I may look into an 08 with the 6 spd manual, but other than that, I'm sticking with what I got.

You can vote for it all ya want! It's not entered, so its ok, I won't pull any votes off you!

I would be super excited, if I had an extra 45k to spend...as it is, I'm mildly curious, and insanely jealous, of whoever can afford one when it comes out! (45k isn't any actual pricing, just what I'm going to assume a brand new one will cost...)

It was painted before I got it, but I believe the paint is a single stage with a ton of flake...and poorly done, to be honest. It was done at one of the Earl Schwab (Scheib?) shops in Indianapolis, IN, and I'm pretty sure they barely took any time if that, to prep the surface before painting it. Looks good in pictures, though, just not up close!

I plan on mounting one using the receiver built in...I've got a 13.5k sitting in the garage waiting for the mount

Thanks guys! The grille is a sport painted grille, and the headlights were an eBay find a while back.

It was a nice day out, and i had the camera, while working out some bugs in the front end... Most recent today, with the traction bars fully installed, and hopefully, the bugs with the front end worked out...

Ok, so I've got a 96, with the EMS offroad lockout kit installed, and i've been pulling and reinstalling the drivers side lockout multiple times in an effort to figure out what exactly is going on with the noises I'm hearing...I still swear it's the bearings, but I haven't been able to identify for sure...If anyone's near Camp Lejeune, NC, I'd love some help!:banghead:However, I recently started thinking, what are the differences in the knuckles and mounting between the 96 and 2001? The reason I'm asking, is that I'm wondering if there's a way to adapt to the 2001 disc brakes, so I can avoid having to press the rotors on and off the hub. This would be specific to the DRW's. Is it possible, to replace the calipers and rotors, to use a 2001 setup on a 96 steering knuckle, to allow me to just slide the rotors on and off, without having to press the studs in every time? If anyone's got any knowledge, or some good detailed pics of a 2001 DRW front brakes, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks!

Not sure if bold or stupid! I honestly don't know if I'd do it again-(ok, who am I kidding, I would) but it was a scary stack, just waiting for something to break on lvl 9! - - - Updated - - - I messed with a drag comp for a bit, since a buddy of mine had one, when I had my 01. There is a noticeable difference between the drag comp and the comp, but to be honest, I think I would go the route of a TST PM3 and a smarty stack-the PM3 (or PM3 Comp) is a fuel only box, so if you wanted to add timing, you could use the Smarty to add timing, as well as more fuel. Or, one stack I had always wanted to try was the PM3 Comp and the TS MVP-it always sounded wicked, just never had the time or money. My personal preference though is a TST Powermax over the Edge Comp-I felt that it was way more responsive and way more powerful at comparable levels than the Edge was-and it also smoked a lot less than the edge did too-that is, till I swapped out the HX35 for a slightly laggy S300....then, not so much!

To give you a baseline, I had an 01, 4x4, NV4500, running almost the same setup- RV275's, Edge Comp, Con OFE clutch, stock VP44, HX35 and an Airdog 150. Run 1 was 72.92 degrees farenheit, 29.51 in HG, 35% humidity, and was 330.97/749.46 Run two, under the same conditions was 332.21/741.94. Run 3 was without the Comp on, and was 251.56/578.55

I gotta disagree with you on that one, Mike! Only because I ran an Edge Comp and TST PM3 Comp on my 01- Holy crap was that fast! Still got 18 mpg on the highway, running 35 BFG KM2's, but it would throw you back in your seat if you had the Edge on 3x5 and the TST on 6, let alone 9!!!!

Another thing to consider if that ever happens is that the latch on the bottom of the door has a tendency to rust, and stick-permanently. I had to dremel mine off in order to unstick the door. I would recommend periodically, spraying that latch mechanism on the bottom of the door down with some of the white lithium grease, no residue, and it will prevent the latch from rusting shut.

It could be...I have a hard time believing it, but I'm going to check everything once I get the new bearings in and set.

Ok, I need help. I can't get a hold of EMS to ask them, so I'm coming here, to see if any of you have experience with manual locking hubs on a D60. Ever since I had to pull my hub apart to replace the bearings, I've had a howling sound at 40mph and faster, with an occasional knocking sound. I've pulled the hub off, replaced both the inner and outer bearings and races, replaced the spindle bearing and seals tonight, and yet it's still howling. The only two things I can think of right now is that either my stubshaft is bad, which I have a hard time believing right now, or my bearing preload is all jacked up. Problem is, I've seen so many different opinions on how to set the bearing preload on a D60 axle, that I'm lost. What I was thinking of doing when I get my new bearings and races in, was setting the bearing preload by tightening the inner nut to 50 ft lbs, backing off 1 full turn, and retorquing to 10ft lbs. Then putting the spacer washer on, and putting the outer nut on. Does that sound about right, or am I way off? I know my bearings aren't too tight right now, because I can spin the wheel easily, with it up off the ground, and I don't hear any noises. Also, the hub's not hot when I get done driving it, so I'm thinking the howling noise is the fact that my preload is too loose, and the bearing(s) are just knocking around inside the hub. I really need to get this figured out sooner rather than later, so any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated!

I got a needle valve at the local hardware store here and got it in. I still need to redo the setup and push the valve further back off the IP, but the pulsation is definitely much less! For the day or two I had them, I like the ev2's except for one thing...the boost gauge seems to have a delayed response....is that normal for an electric boost gauge, or should I be looking for a leak?

I've been doing a ton of research on this, as I need to tear down and possibly rebuild my 241 DHD. I do know the input spline count on a 241 is different depending on whether it's a manual or auto...the manual has a 29 spline input, where I want to say the input spline for an auto is 23 spline. The DHD has two different spline counts, and two different output shaft sizes...Mine, with the two piece tailhousing, has a 32 spline output shaft, and according to my calipers, the shaft itself before the splines measures 1.3 inches, and the splines themselves measure 1.4 inches...I'm not sure what the size of the 31 spline DHD is, but I believe the 31 spline output shaft DHD has a one piece tailhousing. You can adapt the tcase to fit from auto to manual, by changing out the input shaft on the tcase-not sure how involved it is, but I know it's possible.Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, or add to the details, but that's what I came up with after about 4 hours of research last night...

That's the part I missed..the fact that the cylinders are shut off due to fuel, not some other way. Hmm...oh well. Mines a 12v, so I can't run the 3 cyl high idle anyway, I was just wondering...

So, I was just thinking, don't even really know what brought this up, but if IIRC, a jake brake (ie engine brake) decreases the compression in the motor, causing the cylinders to not be able to utilize the full stroke of the bore, thus regulating the output of the motor, correct?Wouldn't there be a way to do something like this, on a 24valve, using the same programming that allows the 3 cylinder high idle? just wondering, not sure if it actually shuts off the 3 cylinders, or causes the exhaust valves to open similar to an engine brake.

So, I've known for a while now, that I needed traction bars, but kept putting them off, due to time and cost...it finally came back and bit me in the ! Driving to the hunting lease the other day, I hit the highway, started my acceleration, and wasn't being super nice either, but no harder than I've been in the past. Truck bucked twice-first time was the axle wrap, second was the driveshaft coming off at the Tcase. In the two revolutions it made before the ujoint disintegrated at the rear pinion, it managed to take out half my exhaust, the DHD tailhousing, the shaft itself (custom one piece 5 in aluminum driveshaft). I knew I should have done the traction bars a while ago, but I kept putting them off...So, if you have any sort of noticeable axle wrap, get this done sooner, rather than later!I've already bought the traction bars-for the time and money it would cost me in materials, it was going to be easier to buy them, and CPP has them on sale right now. That was $445. Plus, I'm looking at another driveshaft, so somewhere between $500-$600, a new upgraded slipyoke, I'm getting the 1480 joints, so about $200 there, and a new tailhousing-so about another $200 there. Sooooo, instead of paying about $500 up front, and being good with it, my laziness and cheapness is now costing me closer to $1300...:banghead:

I've ran once or twice, waay overloaded for what I should have been...when I moved from Indianapolis, IN, to North Carolina in the beginning of this year, I was driving my 96 3500, 4x4, 5spd, 4.10 gears, with my buddy's 40 ft deckover gn, dual tandem. Unloaded, with just me in the truck, I rolled across the scales at 17.7k. After loading the trailer, with my daughter's play castle, which I estimated to be around 3k, my 97 3500, a few things that didn't fit in the moving trailer, the pets, my wife and kids, I rolled across the scales at a fun 28,640 lbs. Luckily for me, when I drove past the scales in NC, on I40, and got pulled over, the cop only looked at my military id, and let me go-my license was standard class C, rated only up to 26,001, and the truck tags were only at 9k. That could have gotten expensive fast!!!!!

Just a quick question on these, as this will be the first time I've ever had an electronic FP gauge as opposed to mechanical. The setup on the truck was originally designed with an autometer electronic FP gauge, with the sending unit tapped into the 90 elbow feeding into the P7100 Pump. With this being an electronic FP gauge, how critical is running either a snubber/needle valve/isolator inline with this system? I know in the past, they still recommended it, as the pulses would still beat the sending unit and cause it to either fail rapidly, or at least create a pulsating reading, so I was wondering if the newer electronic gauges were the same? I'm not a huge fan of electronic gauges in general, as there's just one more thing to troubleshoot if something goes wrong, but it is what it is, and I have them now-it's my fault for not specifying mechanical, as I wasn't really thinking about that when I ordered them.

Thanks bud!

Well, I wired up the external voltage regulator, and it seems to work fine. I wasn't able to download the files, due to not having enough posts on the forum yet, and I don't want to just spam posts to get permissions....seems kind of cheap to me, despite the fact that I still need to track down that short. I was a little leary of doing it, but it seems to have worked out ok. I didn't want to break up my block on the back of the alternator, but after trying to just bend the tabs back and tape them up, I didn't see any other way to do it. I used the ford voltage regulator, the 4 pin one, but it still worked out ok, and tapped the ignition wire into the airdog wire, since I already know that one is tapped into a hot when on fuse. Voltage is back to charging, and everything still seems to function correctly. Because the engine control fuse only seemed to blow when the ASD relay was in, I went ahead and left the ASD relay out-I don't think I needed it anyway, since I already have a manual fuel solenoid cutoff cable installed-not sure if that actually has anything to do with that or not, but in case it does, I'm good on it.

So, Ive gone through most of the threads I could find online, and I'm still a little unsure of how to do this...was hoping for some clarification.My engine control fuse keeps blowing, as long as the ASD relay is in. As soon as I pull the ASD relay, the engine control fuse doesn't blow...although I'm assuming that is because of the wiring. Without having looked at a diagram yet, I don't know which is in line first. However, the only symptom I seem to have so far is that my alternator won't charge. This is on a 96 12v, but the wiring harness is a frankenstein conglomeration of a 96, 98, and 2000 gas harness, so tracing it through is going to be nigh on impossible. I do plan on trying to buy a short detector, but I'm not too confident on how well that's going to work.I have the items to wire in an external ford voltage regulator, one of the 4 pin ones, from advanced. I'm still a little unclear of how its going to work, or how to wire it in. I get that two of the wires come off the alternator, the upper and lower field wires and go to the regulator, and then on the third pin on the regulator comes off of a keyed power source. The part I'm unclear on is do I unhook all the factory wiring from the alternator then? Also, if I don't have the ASD relay and fuse in, will the alternator still charge the batteries? Without those two, I don't see a path of current for the alternator to send a charge back to the battery-or is there a wire off the alternator that goes back to the batteries? Any help I could get on this would be greatly appreciated-I've got both of my vehicles down right now, and need to get one or the other up as soon as possible.

Well, looks like I won't be relearning my actuator... I was in a hurry, and not thinking, so when I went to check my motor out again tonight, to make sure it was working properly, I forgot to pull the motor when I applied power to it-and promptly fried the IC chip inside the actuator module. I'm looking to find another used actuator now, hopefully this one I've got a line on works out. Once I do that, I need to verify my wiring is good, and then put the new one in, and hope it works right.