Great work!

Try to make all the wires normal and then tap a 6 to 8 ft piece of wire into the tcc wire. Run it through the window. Connect a test light probe to the wire and the the alligator clip from the light to ground ex the outer lighter socket shell or the key. Light should be off. Now turn on key light should remain off. Start engine light should be on. Go about 25mph at least 2nd or 3td gear, with your wire still on the light probe touch it to ground ( gator clip) the clutch should lock and the light turn OFF. Remain at 25 mph. Take probe off ground, clutch should unlock and light turn on. Accelerate to 45+ the light should turn OFF and clutch locks. If something seems wrong repeat the test with the overdrive wire tapped C2 pin 21 brown wire. It works exactly the same way.

When people install a tcc manual switch there is usually a resistor of a couple hundred ohms connected to the orange black wire at the PCM side and the relay power pin that supplies the tranny. The purpose is so the PCM sees a good connection and electrical path through the resistor that is simulating a solenoid. With out it the PCM will throw a bad solenoid code.

Has the crank sensor been replaced? It sits behind the starter.

My 2002 grand Cherokee has an odd fan that operates off the power steering pump it's variable speed. The AC drain is unreachable and clogs so the floor always has rust.

My track bar appears original and never had a problem no wobble and 325K miles. I replaced the bushings and caster alignment bolts a couple years ago. That was a lot of torching. I replaced an axle u joint and I think I bent an ear. The joints were really stuck in there it has some binding when turned hard. I had a shop change ball joints like 10 years ago and its had a slight pull to the right ever since. I wish there was a way to check the ball joint cams and spacers without putting all back together.

I just replaced the accumulator on my truck a couple weeks ago the drain does stick out at least an inch or more. It's very easy to access without the accumulator but that means recovering and opening the system. Technically a tech needs an EPA 609 to do that but the law doesn't clarify a non technician.

Congratulations on your tranny build. That takes some guts rebuilding.

If the little metal tip of the neutral safety switch makes any contact with grounded metal: IE the rooster comb it will start. The plastic bit prevents electrical contact except where it's cut out in park and neutral. The outer plunger part that has the metal *** in the center gets pressed back in reverse to operate the back up lights. ounds like the plastic bits that snap into the rooster comb broke. Might have to drop the pan and take a look.b To prevent breakage the neutral safety switch should be removed whenever the valve body is being removed or installed.

Sounds like the plastic bits that snap into the rooster comb broke. Might have to drop the pan and take a look.

Check the vacuum lines. The battery causes the line to get brittle and crack. Happened on my truck. Does the backup lights work.

Old but a good article. I've noticed that the governor transducer voltage goes up from about .5V at zero mph to about 4.5V at 45mph so all the 1-2 and 2-3 shifting is done at 45 ish OD shifting takes over after that. The PCM uses the speed sensor in the transmission for shifting not the rear end, not sure about OD and TCC. The sensor in the rear end is used for the speedo and anti lock, that way the transmission will still upshift with out red lining the motor in 4 wheel low range and the speedo will be correct. I've also noticed the PCM causes a bump in governor pressure when the throttle is opened past about the 1/2 to 3/4 position. This makes the transmission think the vehicle speed is a little higher than it actually is, so it holds the gear longer. I'm guessing that was done on the diesel so it can lug more than the gas version without being overly downshifting.

No hassle return. New starter installed and works. Hopefully it lasts for a long time.

I see @IBMobile already helped you. Here is another drawing that may help.

My luck has been terrible lately. The fancy NAPA lifetime starter already died. It didn't make it two months. The gear extends but the motor just sings and starts smoking. Thought my engine locked up at first. I'm going to leave it alone so we won't know what happened. It's going back.

Yeah! I have AC again. The compressor was empty not a drop of oil in it and no compression. The orifices pipe was clogged the whole system was empty, found a very small leak at the low pressure switch. Flushed the whole system. New compressor had 6 oz. Of oil already installed I added another oz to the new accumulator.

I have not decided if I'll use the original stock sensors and wiring or change over to something more universal and cheaper with standard connections and threads. The map sensor is limited and expensive. The oil pressure sensor is some what delicate too.

I have most of the error codes working. There are a couple that don't apply now, but they only display on my computer by serial port. When I get the ECU working I have to figure that out. I have fuel to boost table , fuel to rpm table, no load timing and full load timing vs rpm and a load calculator. I need to improve the tps scale so my tranny has some better shift points vs pedal position. It's a bit downshifty.

I have a new proto type with custom circuit boards so I don't have to worry about a big mess of wires and components moving around and causing problems. I can move on to working out more of the code. My tune tables need some work and I need to build an ECU to operate my guage cluster and OBD2 port. Got my transmission signal working pretty good. I need to make a TPS calibration routine. Here's a new video of it running.

That's right. It won't latch. I had your problem years ago with the passenger. Side rear. It wouldn't open I had to cut the latch bolts inside the door with a torch.

My truck is not an SLT. It's sort of a hi line.

I noticed that none of the boneyards have them they must be in high demand just like the spare tire wind up thingy. Those are always gone or bad.

My truck came with a very handy storage compartment/separator under the rear seat it prevents things from sliding around and out the doors. It looks factory installed. Seems to be a rare option I've never seen another truck with it. I just wonder what it was called and which trucks got it.

Update. I think I found the problem. The blue wire from the run/acc fuse looked like the pin was not making good contact I noticed it was a bit lower in the socket than the other pins. I extracted the pin and the metal was cracked so it wasn't as springy. I stretched it back out and it works like described above. I'll see if I can find a new pin or connector on a junker. I relocated the module from next to the sub woofer to under the seat and screwed it down I also cleaned up the sensor ball and switch inside. The mysterious blue/white wire I still don't know where it goes I even removed the back seat and lifted the carpet. I gave up trying to track it down. This has been a difficult problem to find. I'll take it for a long drive soon to see if it that was indeed the issue.

I have it soaking. Fortunately it is stuck in the open position.

Well I figured out why my back door lower latch wasn't latching. The big hole rusted through the lower door let water and crud in there and rusted the latch mechanism. So I'm going to remove the latch and see about freeing it. Has anybody replaced their lower door skins?