dorkweed

I know that Mike runs Cooper STT mud tires in the winter, and he likes them. So that would tell me that you can get Cooper tires in Idaho. I would recommend them to you. I love my ATR's. Good all around tire. Don't do mud with them though.............they suck in mud..........worse than the stockers. I guess I should preface that I've never been "hard" on tires since I've been driving..........unless I've had a dedicated set of "junk" tires that I could beat up. However, I'm getting too old and lazy to replace/change out tires that often, so now, I drive like a granny and get maximum tire life!!!!!!!

Are you serious??!!!!! I just "officially" turned 60,000 mile on my Cooper Discoverer ATR's in LT265/75 17E this weekend on my trip up and back to Black River Falls, WI. OEM's were replaced at 81,000 miles. I've got more than enough tread to go until this November or until "real" winter sets in here!!! That should put me 70-75,000 miles on the Coopers. I find that really hard to believe that you cannot get more mileage out of tires. I don't "baby" my tires as I tow very, very often. Not the huge weights many of y'all do, but 3-4,000lbs 3-4 times a week around suburbia/stop and go!!! As I've said before, I got 125,000 miles off the OEM stock Michelin M&S tires on my '99. Could've gone longer, but it was coming into winter!!!! On my 04.5, I got 81,000 miles on them before I bought the Coopers, as said above. I could've gone longer, but I had a flat on one of the tires(Michelins) and couldn't see the sense in fixing a tire that had 81,000 miles on it just to replace it before winter. JFYI, I don't run them until they're bald either!!!!!:nono: So I don't know what y'all are doing to your tires that you don't get the mileage out of them I do!!! I run 70psi in all 4 tires all the time......no matter the load.

Twas board the other day, and clicked onto the Cooper Tire website. I found out they have a new tire size in the Discoverer ATR style in 17" rim sizes...................LT275/70 17E. Just a bit taller and wider for the folks that don't want the "mexican" style stupid wide tires. I wish Cooper made a LT255/80 17E or even a LT255/85 17E tire. I know all you young "pups" like the "fat and wide" tires, but if you talk to anyone that makes a "living" off road: and not just recreationally, you'd know that the un-cool pizza cutter style tires rule!!!! Hence my wish for the tire sizes I mentioned in this paragraph!!!:2cents:

Not arguing..........just saying here. I'm really, truly amazed how folks will skimp on tires because of price.....initially. But then will skimp again.....often with the same brand.........when prior "el-cheapo" tires, the first time, failed to go 25,000 mile!!!!!!:doh:Wouldn't said folks be better off in the "long run" if they invested in "higher quality" tires initially and have them go 60, 70, 80,000 miles vs. 20-25,000 miles?????? It truly makes no "effing" sense in my world!!!!!:cookoo:

I'll be turning 141,000 miles this weekend. I'm heading up to Black River Falls, WI, to guide some pheasant shooters for a friend of mine and his church group!! Right now, I'm at 140,8xx...........work tomorrow, and then leave Friday in the morning. About 225 miles one way......plus the extra driving there!! I'm catching up to you Mike!!!!

What you describe is the "best" way to do it............however, what ISX was doing was just to give us some info on the valve "timing" of our engines. I'm still amazed that the exhaust valve starts to open that soon!!!!! I'm a wonderin' if that's not to "lessen" the spike in cylinder pressure because the 1st gen trucks have higher compression ratios than do the 2nd and 3rd gen engines???!!! The 3rd gens lessen the peak cylinder pressure by the "multiple" injection events..........but they also "prolong" the "power stroke" of ignition by the "multiple" injection events!!! It works........that's all I know for sure!!

Guys, I tow most everyday of the week. In the warmer months, if my work trailer isn't hitched to my truck, many times my boat trailer is!!! Here are a few things I've learned in my years of towing... 1. A goose-neck style trailer will almost always get you better mileage towing vs. a bumper pull style of the same size. This is due to the trailer being physically closer to the tow vehicle. My new work trailer, although lighter than the old trailer, is further from the back of my truck and catches more wind.........thus it pulls "harder" IMHO. 2. With our Cummins/Dodge trucks, the weight of the load has WAY LESS of an effect on mileage than does wind resistance. 3. Slow down if you want better mileage. I used to haul livestock to market as a teen........you don't want to "stress" them critters prior to slaughter for USDA grading purposes. Slow accelerations, easy stops and careful corners help that big time!!! Also easier on the tow vehicle and trailer!! 4. Make sure your trailer has proper weight distribution. 10-15% tongue weight for bumper pulls and up to about 25% for goose-neck style. CajFlynn help here if that's no longer correct. 5. Maintain your trailer!!!!! Probably better than 50% of all trailer towing accidents are caused by a neglected trailer.............tires, brakes, frame, lights etc. 6. Maintain your truck!!!!! Our trucks were designed to haul and tow. Both are "harder" on the vehicle than a grocery getter type truck. See #5 above...........much of the other part of accidents is neglected tow vehicles..........tires, brakes, hitch etc. I make my living as does CajFlynn by towing. I don't do near as much towing as he does.......no one does!!!!:lmao2:...........but if my work trailer isn't traveling down the road, I'm not earning any money and not making a living!!!!! You do have to spend money to make money................maybe moreso if you tow for a living!!!

In all the years I've been towing, I've always preferred the trailer brakes to "come on" just a fraction ahead of the brakes on the tow vehicle.

How fast is that scooter in the 1/4 Russ???? Can you break the rear wheels loose and do a burnout?? It looks sturdy enough to put some real power under your butt!!!!

This is the exact same brake controller I put on my old '99. It worked very well............however, it was super sensitive to heat. Even at times in the winter!! If the truck sat in the sun and got hot/warm in the cab, just touching the brakes would essentially lock up the brakes on the trailer. Once the inside of the cab cooled down, along with the controller, the braking function would return to its flawless operation. I have a "Brake Force" brand on my 04.5 and it's flawless in all temperatures..

Fleetguard and MotorGuard TP Bypass here.

Jeez, I was figuring on like about 800hp and 1500ft.lbs. with you set up!!!:lmao2::lol:

Typo.......of course.......on my part!!!!!!!:lmao:

My truck just turned 140,000 miles this past weekend coming home from my second trip to SEMO. Had I not run thru a "front" and have the wind shift from straight South to NE, I would've gotten another 20-21mpg tank. That's running 65-68mph. That said, I thought I'd share with y'all what I've done to my truck since I got her. I'm pulling this from the top of my head, so bear with me here.Mods in order of installation.1. Fuel Tank Vent Mod.......IMHO, the best "bang for the buck" mod there is.....Done at about 11,000 miles2. MBRP Free Flow Exhaust........Cat Back......Still on and looking good...Done at about 14,000 miles3. K&N intake System.......then replaced with Fram Boost 2 Intake System.... Done at about 14,000 miles4. Edge Juice w/Attitude.....good power, mild increase in mileage, hot towing heavy.....at 23,000 miles5. MotorGuard TP Bypass Filter........Done at about 40,000 miles6. GDP Walbro Lift Pump System......Done at about 40,000 miles7. SouthBend Con OFE Clutch..........Done at 71,000 miles due to major slippage!!!!:cool:8. Smarty.........Done at about 90,000 miles...........gobs better than the J w/A9. BD Steering Box Stabilizer......Done at about 100,000 milesThat's been pretty much since.Here's the major repairs now.1. Rear Main Seal.......done under warranty2. Rearmost U-joint........done at 60,000 miles3. SouthBend Clutch........done at 71,000 miles4. Ball Joints, Tie Rod Ends, Front Axle U-Joints, Front Pinion Seal........done at 74,000 miles5. New Tires.......Done at 81,000 miles.6. New CP3........Done at about 97,000 due to leakage.7. New Axle U-Joints (again) and replace 2 seals on engine front.......done at 114,000I'm sure there's some stuff I missed...........y'all will please tell me (I'm sure).............since I've told most everything about my truck on this forum to begin with!!!!!!!:lmao2:All in all, this truck has been good to me. As much as I loved my '99, this 04.5 is "twice" the truck IMHO and much, much nicer to drive.............and drive on long trips. I make about 5-7 "long" trips a year, and we usually take my truck, because it'll tow a big-assed trailer and get good mileage without blowing up, it's got 4 "normal" opening doors, you can "load" it down in addition to the trailer and because it's got comfortable seats. The seats aren't as good in the 04.5 as they were in the '99 though. Those '99 front seats were really comfortable...................Way more so than any Ford (which suck IMHO) and GM!!!!Mike, I may reach 200,000 before you do!!!

BUMP!!! I'm guessing around 996,xxx, as of about now. How about it Caj..........???????I'm catching up to you..........just turned 140,000 on Mighty Whitey this past weekend!!!!

I keep my truck on SW5, which is probably somewhere's near your "ideal" 350-375hp. I would have to agree with that!!! Towing my new work trailer on level ground at 65mph, I see about 8psi of boost and like 700*EGT. My new work trailer........although only a single axle, has a greater tongue weight than my old trailer. The front of the trailer is also a bit further back off the truck than the old trailer. Both of those factors, believe it or not, actually make this new, "lighter" trailer a "harder" pull than my older heavier trailer. Does that make sense???!!!!!If I had an "IN" like you do in the Federal Reserve, I'd have a set of towing twins, head studs, upgraded CP3 and 50hp injectors!!:lmao:What, if anything, have you noticed from your cam swap???

IIRC, the MotorGuard and the Frantz divert off about 5% of oil pump flow for the bypass filter. Still even with that small amount of oil, the flow rate threw the TP bypass filter averages about 1 quart per minute of engine running at normal operating temps. The OEM full flow filter flows way more than that............it has to in order to lubricate and cool the engine!!

I'm sure I was getting 21-22mpg on the trip home on Sunday evening/night. Tuesday-Friday I put on about 25-40 miles per day depending on where I was working........but it was all trailer towing both ways!!! I'm happy!!!

I was down in SE Missouri this past weekend snow goose hunting. The hunting was poor; but the mileage going back home was really, really good. I filled up just South of Sikeston, MO, prior to the drive home. I decided to spend the night at the P's house, rather than drive the last 75 miles in a stupor!!!! That said, it was 399.6 miles to the P's house. The following morning, I drove the rest of the way home. I filled up this afternoon..............653 miles on the tank of fuel. The last 4 days have been towing my work trailer. Prior to towing, I was at 500 miles for the tank when the fuel gauge read 3/8 tank left!!! Had I continued driving highway/empty like I was, I'm sure this would've been a 700 mile tank of fuel. I kept the speed at 65-67mph because the Illinois State Police are doing revenue enhancement on the Interstates since the state in bankrupt!!!!3rd gens are capable of good mileage!!!!

I wound up changing my oil out at almost 82,000 miles on it. I had the truck in the shop for an oil leak. They had to tear apart the front of the engine and then some to replace a seal. Not the front cover seal, but a seal behind that. It's between the block and a spacer like thing the CP3 mounts to and which give clearance for the front cover over the crank, cam gears etc. I figured with the engine apart..........It might be wise to go with fresh oil.

See post #3.

It's a weatherproof locking type connector, so I would doubt that loose and wet could be the cause. However, the FCA's do go out from time to time. Your symptoms are classic for a FCA that is sticking or worn out or just failing. To test the FCA, unplug the plug that goes to it on the back of the CP3 and start the truck. Or unplug it while the truck is running. This'll max out rail pressure (25-26,000psi if you have a gauge) even at idle and you should have terrible injector knock. That should eliminate electical problem.

:thumb1:

What Mike said the code is, probably means/sounds like it's the FCA or Fuel Control Actuator. It's on the backside of the CP3, has a plug that runs to it, and it responsible for "metering" the amount of fuel that goes into the CP3/injection pump. The plug sends varying voltages to it from the trucks computer based on input from the various sensors on the truck.

Come on Mike..........you're telling us that you's guys never did that at the fire house when it got slow???!!!