mehbohdi

Was looking more for project, can't do shell cause I need open truck 1/2 the time. I used to work out of Chev Aluminum bodied step van with 454 with 4:10 gears, pass everything but a gas station and it was great to work out of, it was set up well by a friend. I was thinking 70s or 80s 3/4 or 1 ton 2wd 24 valve w/7100 pump. I would be willing to modify dog house, not so sure about floor around engine. It would definitely have to fit existing hole. My other questions are, is the frame up to the task I don't remember if the frames are boxed on the vans. I have owned a few vans so I know space is a premium, radiator, a/c, intercooler, trans cooler, not sure if there's enough room up there. I'm in the research mode at the moment. Any input is food for thought

I use my truck for work every day, its a tool box and a hauler. I've been considering getting Van to use as a drier tool box seen as I live in the Pacific NW, and I keep putting more tools in truck and have to decide which ones get to ride in back more often than not. So, I use to drive vans and I thought it would be cool to put a 2nd or 3rd gen engine in van. Has anybody seen this done or know anybody that has done it. Does the 5.9 fit is the biggest question I have? Thanks for your input

As far as oil pressure goes put a manual gauge on to really check pressure, sending units will lie about actual psi they are a great indicator of pressure but not actual numbers. As long as the needle is moving up down you are probably OK. I am a little old school when it comes right down to it. Don't fix it if it ain't broke......

I have had a Quad XZT for 6 years and have jump numerous vehicles and my backhoe and have had no problems. I did not see that warning in the manual? Or is it just the ADR.

Dare I ask, why you have hair spray lying around?

I will update post if sending unit ever fails. I don't drive mine more than 10,000 miles a year so it might take awhile.

So far I still have the same hi and lo's I had when installed. Everything was installed at same time ( pump, gauge, and big line kit). My thinking is, because the sending unit is at the pump and it is rubber hose all the way to VP the rubber is absorbing some of the hammering. That's the only explanation I have. I'd rather be lucky than good...

I'm running Isspro EV2, put sending unit at pump (DDRP) on frame rail, that was at least 3 years ago. no snubber, no needle valve, no damping of any kind and no problems.

So its been 4 days since o-ring and tube replacement, took 4 hrs to do everything. Truck has started every time on about 1 rotation, which is normal operations, and I don't see or smell fuel anymore. So I conclude success! Thanks for all your input.

All the parts finally got here, doing it this weekend. I'll post when I get done. I did get injector o-rings just in case, I'm going to pull valve cover just to look and set (check) valves while I'm there.

Already done, not my first rodeo. Thanks

Thank you all for the info, I might have to do injector o-rings but not sure, I'm going to do tubes first, head is wet on #4 & #6 injector, I think that's the only problem.

So I'm going to replace X-over tube o-rings and I have conflicting info, Book says torque injectors install tubes torque injector lines, I have read on this forum leave injectors loose (snug but not torqued), install tubes, torque lines, then torque injectors? Is one method better than the other? I understand reasoning, to help center tube on injector. Is the book overly confident that one could put the injector in the proper position the first time? I want to hear from people that have done it. Thanks

Thanks, Carli kit 2.75"

Here is most recent

I have Depo sport lights and Sylvania Ultra bulbs. Did conversion with harness found on Ebay, tried to find link but the website is down (been down for quite awhile). I've had it 3 years, harness was put together well, heavy wire 14 or 12 gauge (don't remember), 5 relays, wired direct to batteries, Harness uses 5th relay to switch all 4 low beam filaments on low and all 4 high beam filaments on high. This set up puts out alot of light on the road. I don't get flashed (aiming them is challenging, took a few times), so I don't think it's to bad for oncoming traffic. Daniel Stern's web site has alot of good info but I would not buy his stuff, to pricey, but worth looking at. Making it your self is a good way to learn how it all works and know you did it right. Good luck

I've done all the steering on my truck, Borgeson shaft, Borgeson steering box(3.5 turns makes so much difference), BD steering brace and track bar. Not cheap but iI think its worth it. Been 2 years no regrets. I had done all the ball joints and rod ends the year before, then the steering box started to leak. I paid to have the ball joints done, I did the rest myself, I have well lit and heated shop, and its not totally full of s#$t. Good luck

That hovering thing doesn't work like you said....... HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Are you assuming there bad just because there are making noise? Did you take wheel off and look how much pad is left. In my experience noise does not mean they are bad its just pad shifting around caliper. If you think drilled and slotted rotors are going to help longevity you would be wrong, they will wear out pads quicker, it might stop a little better, but there is a sacrifice in pad life. Just my 2 cents.

All went well, vacum pump in and out is the easy, putting seals in was easy, the hard part is lining up the powersteering pump and getting all back together. It would be easier if I would have removed pump with steering pump attached but its already been drained once in the last year and i only had to create one custom bent 15mm wrench. Clocking the steering pump is a PIA, only took 1/2 dozen times oh yea the spring fell off the seal, that was fun to put back on. Learn something every day. It does not leak anymore so it was a good experience and it only took 2.5 hrs. And Genos kit is great comes with DVD and a extra set of seals (lip and 2 0-rings). It's probabley overpriced considering what your replacing, but the DVD and all the PVC R&R tools make it worth the money to me.

I did it 2 years ago and have no regrets, I bought the HD wiring harness (from suvlights.com) that runs direct off batteries w/ relays. The harness makes it so you can utilize both sets of hi/lo bulbs (9004 & 9007) they throw a lot of light, plus you can use what ever bulb you want. I considered Hid"s ,I'm not real fond of, i think they are overrated,

i'll let you know how it goes.

I finally isolated oil leak , seal between vacum pump and power steering pump is leaking, ordered parts. Has anybody done this without removing vacum pump, just removing steering pump? Just curious if it is possible. I don't have a problem taking both off, just wondering if it is necessary. Thanks

I have been buying old formula (15-40W) Delo 400 from shop I deal with, the only way you can get it is 50 gal drum, but it is available from suppliers or directly from refinery which in my case is less than 20 miles away (have to have friends in high places). LOL

IMO if the block you have made it the first 195,000, it will probably go another 200,000 and more. It has been heat cycled a few times by now. Did you happen to checkand see if the breather was plugged? I have a 01 and it has a cam sensor no crank.