hex0rz

Oh, I know it was an option they listed. Buy they said it was not necessarily a good idea because of the whole potential corrosion problem. It makes sense.. if the grid heaters switch on, the battery voltage will drop because of the draw. Hence why the volt meter drops. When the volts drop, the airdog pump does not have 12volts like it should. Less voltage, lower pump pressure. When the grids kick off, the alternator brings the battery voltage back up and the pump runs off of the 12 volts it need to run it at the regulated pressure. :lol:Preachin to myself here...

Hmm? Whatchu talkin' bout willis! Mmmm... well I have done a large amount of research on the subject and have not nearly reached a point to call myself smart on the subject, but the whole idea of paying only about $1 a gallon turns me on! MPGs can go right out the winder for all I care... I devised a clever little system that would allow me to obtain good flows during cold weather. Which is why it seems alot of people steer away from it.

Hey guys, I noticed that there is no place for a biodiesel runner. Does anyone here run biodiesel or have thoughts on it? When I can catch up on money and get the time to do it, I plan on getting myself setup with an operation to refine it.Just wondering if anyone else is interested..

Eureka! I never even gave that a thought! My pump is connected to the passenger side battery for power. They said not to because of corrosion problems, but I maintain that. That makes total sense now as to why it does it then.

So I wonder if I'm having a problem with the airdog or my fuel pressure gauge then?

Hey guys, I gots me an AirDog II 165. I installed it back in September and have been with this quirk since then. I'm not sure if it is a problem or anything but just wanted to see if others experience this?I got my fuel pressure at 20psi according to my fuel pressure gauge. When I start the truck and the grid heaters kick on, the fuel gauge will go down to 15-16psi. When the grid heaters switch off, the fuel jumps back up to 20 psi. I have watched the fuel in the line move back and forth to the gauge as they switch on and off.Its a mechanical gauge with a cage protector in between the stock fuel filter housing and gauge.WOT never shows fuel pressure to be lower than 15psi on the gauge.

A periodic inspection of under hood components will help in preventative maintenance. I checked my filter minder before I installed. Worked just fine. A drop in MPG's and I'm sure some other changes would point to a restricted air filter. Given the fact as long as I don't drive my truck in the coal mines.

<--- Closest thing I can come to take bow and take credit! :lmao:Well, I couldn't work on the plate for the BHAF today as I pulled a 24ft travel trailer for the in-laws instead. Got to put some miles on the filter and see what the truck could do on the new tranny rebuild. I would have to say it handled very nicely! Except for the fact I really want an exhaust brake! I had trailer brakes, but I was on a windy road next to a big river.I turned on the O/D button to disable the OD, and burned about a 1/4 tank for the round trip. So hand calculated MPG was 15.5. Last fill-up without trailer, OD disable and BHAF I had 18.5 mpg. So hopefully I can get some more miles in to get an more accurate reading with the BHAF on without pulling a trailer!

If mine goes that long, I will be ! It seems like the consensus on the forums is: 1. Less than 1% of the 53 blocks cracked 2. Its a 50-50 chance, you win some, you lose some, you live to fight another day 3. Less than 5-10% cracked 4. IF your water jacket is thicker than 0.250" you won the lottery and won't develop a crack. ME? I lean with the #1 and #4. I think the way it goes is that less than 1% had water jackets that were thinner than 0.250"... It was reported 100k blocks were produced. 1% of 100k is 1k blocks. That would have been enough to get that CAL going. Especially if you look at the frenzy people had when their prius' just all the sudden accelerated for no reason. The CEO for Toyota had to stand in front of CONGRESS! :banghead:

Haha, well, I suppose I should have made the hole 1/2" as it would have been good practice. As the saying goes, "You can take away, but not add"! Needless to say, I think the 3m definitely helped. It sits in their nice now and I'm confident it wont fall out. Well, because I find the little worm in your pic to be a handsome youngin', 98whitelightnin, I will post pics! That pic gets me everytime I see it! Just don't let the wife know I said that. She would be all over me about having kids! Keep in mind, I got my grubby hands all over it, so it does not look clean. Especially it being white! I have enough material left over to 2-3 more of these things, lol. The wal-mart lady felt generous, I guess. I used 550cord, and a figure-eight-on-a-bight to tighten the end around the filter. I think it will work great! I just gotta finish up the mounting plate for it, and she will be good to go! I'll post pics of that when I finish it too.

http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm http://www.cumminsdieselspecs.com/cummins-53-block.html http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2369-53-block-article I recently read about the 53 block. I was freaked out cause I went and checked one night for that infamous number and low and hold, I have the 53 block! Did a little more investigating another day and come to find out, I do not have the crack! My truck sits at almost 200k miles on it. So I'm a lucky SOB! Hopefully my block is the type with the thicker jacket. Cause when I bought this truck, I highly doubt it was babied to the point of preventing the crack. When I do my spring coolant flush, I'm gonna measure the jacket and see if I'm the lucky guy to have the thicker jacket. Some points to remember: - 53 block is susceptible to having a thin water jacket on the passenger side below the freeze plug. Babying the engine until the engine warms up will help keep the potential for cracking to a minimun or prevent it. Don't romp on the pedal until its warmed up or you could cause a crack to occur or further an existing one. - Lock 'n stitch is a temporary fix. The ultimate solution is to replace the block that does not develop cracks. - I have seen some posts that say other blocks have had cracks as well. So it is not JUST the 53 block, but just more rare to occur.

Well, I looked on vulcan performance. The shipping, outerwear, and filter would cost $92. I broke down and went to NAPA and spent the money on the one they had in stock as I just could not be patient enough for it to come in the mail. It cost $83! BUT, I went to walmart and spent $5-6 on some fleece fabric and had the mother-in-law make me an outerwear! It looks beautimus! Well, before I started putting my grubby hands all over it. :lol:I did not see any tips or tricks on how to install the filter minder. I just matched the hole size the OEM box had and drilled a hole in the BHAF. Its a 3/4" hole, but the hole is much thicker than the OEM box. I dunno how you guys did it, but I was not comfortable with it in there as it felt like it could practically fall out with some vibration.So I counter-sunk the hole a little to fit it in more and used 3m weatherstripping/windshield adhesive. We'll see how that fairs.Let me know if anyone wants pics of the outerwear. I really think its a work of art! I almost thought I could make a living off of making outerwears!

The one on ebay is like this one from NAPA: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=FIL6637_0331399939 Which is the smaller one. But I wonder if that is the only difference... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=FIL2790_0331326543 ^they have this in stock for $78. I suppose even if I did spend the money for it, it really would still be a cheap alt. in the long run. Considering how many miles you get out of it...

98whitelightnin, man! I did not realize that one of these filters could fill a 5gal. bucket, lol! I'll try and look into it more about the outerwear I saw. I'm pretty sure it was a cloth like material. Maybe he had one made up by his wife? I also found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Donaldson-ECB085011-Fram-CA6818-HD-air-filter-Wix-46637-/400252228452?hash=item5d30e45364&item=400252228452&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Its a Fram, so would it be just as good as any other of the brands of the BHAF? I can atleast have it delivered to my door at the price of a bhaf from vulcan and save some money at the expense of time. Would the fram compare to the 6637 filter from napa? Cause if they are the same, I could save some time instead of money, I guess.

Thanks, guys! Hopefully I can become useful in some way to you guys instead of being the sponge all the time... You guys are definitely a jar of smart cookies!Moparman, you don't live very far from some relatives. They are in Kamiah area. Have some others in Twin and Idaho falls. I actually transplanted from the Spokane area when I met my wife. She grew up here in the area. Great place to live, except some exceptions.

Your outerwear does not look like the others I have seen. I'm looking for the ones that are more like a cloth material. Does yours work well? AND DANG! The filter sure does wear away at that foam! What is causing that excessive wear? Is the filter that heavy and have sandpaper on it? I looked at vulcan but I also have not compared to local prices yet. Vulcan seems to be a bit steep. As for the cradle, I was thinking about making something that will use the bolts and a little cradle I can mount the filter on and clamp down. Does the heat shield matter much? --- Update to the previous post... Well, was doing a little researching and pricing on the BHAF. Around town, not so good. $78 is about the avg. and they would not be able to get it 'till Tuesday. Although NAPA did carry the PN# 6637 filter for $58 I believe. Which was not in stock. But they had the $78 one in stock! :banghead: So I called every dealer in the area and went through the list. 2 places I found on the net that is selling filters cheaper than vulcan performance so far: http://www.sonomatesting.com Donaldson B105006: $42.10 Hastings AF1012: $27.54 (Description says Champion, not sure if it is right filter) http://www.summitracing.com WiX 42790: $54.95 (Not cheaper, but another source) Fram CA6818: $35.99 I wonder if there are any other places out there... hmmm.

http://madselectronics.com/Smarty03.html I seen that thread. I did not know he was building your design. Thought maybe he just ran off your idea. Then again, I'm sue you would not have been happy about him doing that on your forum!

Hey guys, I been looking into that whole high idle fooler setup that is on here. I tested my IAT sensor today with a 100k Ohm resistor and it did not kick a HI/3cyl on. So I take it I need the ecm flashed. If anyone lives near me in the pacific northwest and has a smarty, I would love to pay you a nominal fee for your services to activate it and calibrate my speedo for my tire size!I seen that someone on here has mad a kit setup and sells it, but I dunno if this is something that can be used to help with MPG's too? I seen moparman have a thread way back about how he was fooling around with the resistance on the IAT to fool the ecm to inject less fuel for more mpgs. Did not know if the kit is something that will allow that...Any help is welcome!

Hey guys, new here. This subject is what has got me registered here and staying here now. I looked on moparmans tech articles and saw the one about the BHAF.So I got under the hood and out of curiosity, I gave it all a looky-loo. What I found next was un-nerving. The tube to the turbo inlet was taken off and the inlet to the turbo looked exactly like the picture of the one in his article. Upon further reading, it turns out that it is because of those good ol' k&n filters. Well, it turns out I have one too!The thing is, I'm nervous about what damage it may have caused. Any debris like that is NOT good! My truck seems to run and perform just fine, but I can also be on bought time. I check the air filter and the filter is downright pitiful! It is just caked with crap! I'm surprised the truck has not sucked down the minder.I checked the minder and it is operational. Although, I cannot figure out how to remove the minder from the housing? The rubber is one piece and I do not want to break the minder. Any tricks?I'm gonna look into the BHAF tomorrow and see if my local NAPA has one. Would anyone know if they or someone else would carry the sock for it too? Would the sock be of any benefit?I realize I will lose the coldflow because it will suck in air from the engine bay, so has anyone made a box for them or something of the sort?

Hello all! New forum member here. I hail from the great North of Idaho. Finally had to stop lurking around and get involved! Great wealth of info for me that suit my needs! I'm also on cumminsforum, but it seems many of those guys are into the HP/TQ than just making a stout reliable truck. I'll be posting up on the 2nd gen 24v forum if some of you guys can help me out with a couple things.. Thanks in advance and I hope I can get to know everyone!