hex0rz

I used to own a 98 gmc sierra c1500. I traded it in for my CTD. I'm aware of the pins and bushings. It was the first thing I did to the truck as I thought that was what the problem was. I replaced them, and it seems like made the problem worse. The damned bushings won't even stay in their spots! They work out of the holes...So I looked at the problem a little more. Not once did I give it any thought when I looked at this truck. The problem was not as bad then when we got the truck and at the time I thought it was just the notorious pin/bushing problem.BUT, it turns out, that the previous owner must have some managed to rip the door off the hinges by just a little bit. Then, they proceeded to bubble gum weld up the hinges back to the door. Never thinking about alignment, etc. So the door hinges were welded back up when the door was sagging.To make it worse, the latch assembly on the door has worn out to the point that the door rubs on the rocker panel and takes an act of God to get the door to latch!....this is why I just need a new door. As all the problems are related to the door... :banghead:The junkyard wants $160 some-odd dollars for the door, if they had it in stock!

Where is this video you speak of? I'll followup on mikes article. Haha, I'm sure the wife is gonna love me asking to buy more tools. Whats haulin 20k gonna do? Its not just about cleaning them though. Its about testing them. Whether the spray pattern is right and whether it does not leak and pops at the right pressure. --- Update to the previous post... Okay, so I looked in the article section. I found your video pepsi. I also looked at Mikes articles. It sounds like a pretty easy job. Upon further deliberation, it sounds like I will need a way to keep the tube and injector together to get a bench test to function. Is there someone out there that has already made a machined "jig" for the injectors to be bench tested? Sounds like all I'm gonna have to buy is a 3/4" crowfoot and an inch pound torque wrench to do this job. Also, I'm not upgrading my injectors. I'm just servicing the OEM. Is there a kit the auto parts stores carry so I can replace the copper washers and o-rings? Or do I just have to source them myself?

I'm sorry, but I think your reasoning is flawed. Maybe I'm not interpreting your statement right. It has to do with Inflation and COLA. I know what you mean about the bio. I have not even had a chance to see how much WVO production their is around this small town, but I'm willing to bet there are not many people making a killing on it because the demand is lower than compared to a larger city. It sounds like the oil heating companies are scraping tooth and nail for the stuff to keep their business going though.

Yea, its the same. I was just going off of what the device identifies itself as. Apparently, whoever bough the gauges, got it included with the fuel pressure gauge. It looks like this: The problem is, how 'am I going to know if this is allowing an accurate reading? Then, how do I know if my gauge has suffered from too much water hammer? Now, I'm thinking about doing a big line plumbed with quick connects from the OE canister to the vp44. Maybe put a T on there and put a needle valve on it for the gauge, like moparman has in his article...

So, I decided I would give my injectors a little looky-loo. A few days ago, I did this. After fumbling around trying to figure out what wrench size the injector lines were, I got a wrench on them while the truck was running and all of them responded to them being cracked open. I was not able to get to cyl. #2 and #6. Is there a way to get to these injectors?Also, it seemed like it took a good amount of force to crack them open. I have never heard of a torquing device that would use an open-ended application like a wrench. How do I know if I tightened them enough or not enough?I have been avg. about 16mpg now after my BHAF install. I'm curious to see how my injectors are doing as I have not serviced them, and I have no clue if the previous owners have done any at all. I'm curious to see how they are spraying, but I figured I would atleast see if they were functioning properly.Is there any injector bench-testers out there I can buy? I have a link to building one, but I dunno if I can find a steel line and fitting for the injector to do it with...

I believe the controller has 2 fuses. 1 is for the 12v constant to charge the trailer batteries, and 1 for the controller itself. When I push the manual slide over, the light does come on. But when I push on the brake pedal, the light does not come on.I believe, if I'm not mistaken, it splices into a wire under the dash. Whether or not it is for the brake pedal, I dunno. Guess I'm gonna have to check the wiring schematics.

I believe the saying they are living by is a pipe dream. I still remember the prices back when I first staretd driving. I also remember what my pops used to pay when I was a kid. Its not that I forgot about the price, but its about what can I do to influence the price?You can try and boycott a station, but too many people out there just don't give about the reality of it. I'm sure that if we organized, the oil companies would definitely get some covert stuff to go down...

So, I have a cage protector on mine. How should I have mine set up then? I have it plumbed to the OE canister, can I still keep it that way?

Eh, well, I have been told numerous times by people on CF. I also went into the local O'reilly's and never got a timing cover gasket in this "timing cover" kit. It was a Fel-pro kit, btw. Me and the guy both thought it was odd that it did not come with the timing cover gasket, yet it was labeled for just that reason. :whistle:Maybe I took it too far by saying they are no longer made. Or maybe you are getting yours pulled from stock.

Needle valve?I dunno if this will help, but plumbing in a mech. fuel gauge, you are gonna want a chemical cage protector. Plumbs in between the fuel source and the gauge. From the protector to the gauge, you use antifreeze.Also, when you go to hook the line up to the gauge, use a syringe to fill the line with the antifreeze, then hook it to the gauge.

...to me, I don't see how it could fail?

I do think about how these people seem to care little about the ramifications of their actions. Although, I do KNOW that one day they WILL stand before the Lord and have to give an account for their works. That goes for the thoughts and actions according to the condition of their heart when it came to this very opportunity about ethics economically....if that makes any sense.

It has been a couple months since the repair job.. I dunno if they will still look at it without charging... I have one of these: I took the truck in because the trailer for the forklift did not work. Got it fixed, and they did not even have a trailer to go off of. When the time came to tow the trailer, I hooked it up, and it worked. A couple months later, which is about now, the light will not come on when I apply the brake. I have not had a trailer to try. I suppose I just need to get under the truck and look. I just did not know if someone knew about this sorta thing or not.

Passed by a local fuel station today on the way back from grocery shopping. Besides spending $90 on a 1/4 cart worth of food, fuel prices for diesel went up from $3.89 to $4.02/gal. 87 octane spiked from $3.16 to $3.44. :banghead:I bought my diesel thinking I would be able to get onto bio by now, but things never work out as you plan them. You can only hope they go how you would like it to.Personally, I do not believe it has to do with speculation, etc. I believe it has more to do about the strength (or the lack thereof) of the dollar. :2cents:BUT, anything the greed-mongers can use to justify the means...

...here is my reason why I say that method I recommend is probably the only one that will work. I have tried different methods of all sorts. I also tried to use the setup I described above in 2 different ways. 1. I tried to use it like a slide hammer coming in from the passenger side. Did not work. Seated crooked. 2. Tried to use a 2x4 on the passenger side spindle and pull the seal in. Probably how you were thinking. The seal would not seat properly nor would it even begine to start. I had so much compression on it all, I broke the 2x4. I even used washers to try and increase the surface area of the compression to spread the burden of the load. Alignment is the problem as well. You have to get it just right for it to work any. Believe it or not, I feel that the only approachable method to doing it is how I described...

Hey everyone! I got me a brake controller here. At first, it did not work right at all. I hooked up a trailer to tow a forklift and the lights never worked right. The wiring was all screwed up. I tried fixing it, and it still was not right. Even though I followed exactly what the instructions said. So I took it to a place and it took then like 3-4 hours to fix. Finally, everything was working!I towed a 24' travel trailer, all was well. Well, that was about a month or two ago. I noticed one day, that when I step on the brake pedal, the brake controller light does not come on? It did before after I paid to get it fixed! I checked the fuses, they are good. I have not screwed around with it since it was fixed. Anyone have any ideas?I believe it is one of those REESE controllers. If I hit the slider on the front, the light will light up. Is the controller still functioning or is something up?

Thanks for the info! Atleast I know which one to go with now. Unfortunately, its gonna be on the back burner for a WHILE. Going on 3/4 year now with no J.O.B.! I love my wife!

This is not about the KDP. This is about the crank and timing cover seal. He is not doing a KDP fix. That is a totally different beast than what is being covered here.

SOOO, its TUESDAY. Whats new pussycat? Whooooa, whooa, whooa, whoooa, whooa.

I HAVE DONE THIS! :banghead: I will WARN you, do it right the first time! Your seals are going out, and you need to replace them. I hope you have not recently serviced the front-differential as this will require a complete gutting to do so. You will need to remove the tires, calipers, hubs, and axles. Take the front diff off and drain out the differential. You will need to remove the CAD fork assembly, and remove the intermediate axle as well. You will need to remove the steering component in front of the diff. cover. I can't remember what one that was. You will know, becuase it will be in your way when you try and remove the diff. guts. Then, you will need someone to help you remove it, as one person needs to be prying and the other needs to hold the weight of the diff guts as it comes out. When you remove the bolts that hold it in, make sure to keep it in the proper order. The diff. may also have shims as well. The bearing races can fall off easily as well. Make sure you KNOW the ORDER of the parts! You DO NOT need a diff. spreader, contrary to what people think. I took mine out a few times without one. Take a long pry bar that gives you alot of leverage, and cover the end with a rag. Then, take a piece of wood, and place it right next to the hole of the housing. Get your buddy ready, and then pry. The wood creates a fulcrum point that gives you enough leverage. Place the end of the pry bar on the inner part of the ring gear. This is a non-mating surface for the teeth should you slip. It should come out fairly easy. Once, the guts are out. Proceed to knocking out both of the seals. One is on the inside of the housing on the drivers side and the other is on the far side of the passenger axle housing. You should have seen it when you took the cad and int. axle out. HERE is the TRICK. You will be hard pressed to get the pass. seal in any other way than THIS. Take a piece of PVC pipe the INSIDE DIAMETER of the seal, I had to sand mine down to match the ID of the seal, so do not be surprised if you do too. Then, get about 6ft of all-thread. 3/8 all-thread would be good. Get 2 nuts that will thread on the all-thread. Find some fender washers that will fit the diameter of the PVC pipe. CLEAN the area of the seals with emery cloth or whatever you have that will make the surface smooth-and-clean again. Take some bearing grease and coat the surfaces. Mount the nut on the end of the all-thread at the end of it. This side will be what you use to take a mallet or sledge in my case to pound the seal in. On the working end, place the piece of PVC in the inside of the seal, put your nut on the all-thread, and then put your fender washer on, and finally your PVC. You will have to assemble the working end inside the CAD housing. As you hold the conglomerate of this mcgyver workings, the friend you have convinced into helping, will take a beating tool of some sort and start hitting the end of the all-thread. Remember, you have inserted this assembly from the driver side to the passenger side. Using patience and finesse, the seal should go in without damage and seat completely. The driver side seal, well that is self explanitory. There is not much to be said about that one. Now, put everything back together, torquing your bolts to spec. It took me 2 days to figure this out, how to do the seal. TRUST ME when I say this, I did try everything that people said on the net! This was the only way it worked for me! I went through 2 seals before I finally figured this method out. BTW, sorry for the lack of paragraph breaking, this stupid thing wont let me do it. If I hit enter, it just causes the whole thing to move down a line.

The 1st time and only time so far, the guy dropped my pan, replaced the filter and did band adjustment when he did a fluid flush.

To me, if you drive the truck right and rake care of the tranny, I can't see why you would not be able to get the same life out of it like you can the engine...So much did it run you for the job?

:shrug:I have also read from someone saying that using a transmission fluid flushing machine for the 47re is bad as well......its the internet, anyone can sound smart.

http://project60.idaho.gov/ http://www.commentsonnationalamnesia.com/2011/06/01/project-60-china-buying-idaho/ I know all about them using our land for debt payment. Its only a matter of time until the blue hats start marching around on our soil...

For the most part I believe you have the idea, overall. Lol, does that make any sense?Our forefathers saw the product of many evil things done in europe in their time. They knew what a religious state looked like and a dictatorship. They knew that they could not let this country succumb to what they have seen.By spreading the power and control over a series of branches to keep the checks and balances in order.The real problem we have today is that the people in these positions are no longer adhering to this idea. Did you know that back when this country was born, the politicians NEVER even got paid for their service? They never once received a dime for their work in government! These men volunteered, sacrificed their own personal time for the good of their country.The problem we have today, is that these crooks look at it differently then our forefathers did. Its about "prestige!" Hold your finger up to your nose and say that with a fancy attitude. These people think they are like the supreme race. They think they are the elite and better than everyone else. They were born into this lifestyle of entitlement.They think that we are here to serve THEM. But in fact, they are here to serve US! These people have been bought off by the most wealthiest people in the world. There is in fact an agenda from prying eyes that is going on.ISX, the logic behind their reasoning is something we will never be able to grasp if you keep looking at it in the confines of US policy. These people are in it for a GLOBAL goal. They WANT to SEE the demise of the US and its Constitution and BOR. We are indeed the final frontier of the world that stands in the way of their goals.Like I said, call me a conspiracy theorist if you want, but because I choose to pull my head out of the sand and see these people working in parallel to what I read, I believe it.Some of you may think its crazy to hear, but what I'm telling you is that I read the Bible. If you really wanna know the future and what is going to happen, I will vouche for the Bible being the most accurate at whats going to happen.....I'm starting to feel bad, lol. I feel like i have hijacked this thread. I shall stop, if I'm stepping on the OP's toes.