hex0rz

Okay, so I got geared up with some extra tools to do my injectors. Got an evercraft crofoot set from napa for $11! They looks like some good tools. Then I got myself a 1/2" to 3/8"s adapter for my torque wrench. I did get an inch pound torque wrench, but it was useless to have. It went from 120in/lbs to 960in/lbs. My 1/2" goes from 10ft/lbs to 150ft/lbs. Since the crossover tubes and lines hooking to it are 28ft/lbs, can I get away with doing 10ft/lbs on the injector clamp bolt? Or maybe just set it at 10ft/lbs and then stop a little before it clicks? Now, I still need to get o-rings for the crossover tubes, but I was wondering what you guys suggest. I know I had another thread about the injectors, but I still have a question to ask that makes it unique than the other subject. What injectors should I go with? More specifically like what brand. I'm seeing there are quit a few injector brands, I was thinking DAP injectors, but then what about DDP, II, etc.? Who is the "top dawg" of injectors and still offer them at a cheaper price? --- Update to the previous post... Sheesh! I dunno whats going on here? I must have been confusing with my original post. I believe I have my choice of injectors narrowed down to 3 people. 1. DAP 2. CPP 3. DB Truck Customs I can get my hands on those RV275's, but then I could go with 75hp or 40's or 60's. Core charges, shipping, etc. All are a factor here. Seems like DAP has the best price for any of them, but I also pay a core charge. Not a huge deal breaker. I CANNOT wait 1-2 weeks for injectors either. I have to drive my truck... I'm thinking the DAP 75hp's are probably what I should go with... I just gotta try and find someone for the o-ring connector tubes. Diesel performance power has the rv275's AND they include the o-rings with them! I'm not worried about creating power than I'am more concerned about gaining MPG's and the peace of mind the injectors are functioning 100%. I would say the power is a fringe to me... So if I want the most mpg's, what injector? 275's? 40? 60? 75? Or do they all pretty much make about the same in mpg gains but the higher rated ones do it and create more power? You guys see this? http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/436681-injector-breakdown.html I wonder if this is going to need to be factored in with my purchase? I'm a man of technicalities... ...also, I returned the inch pound torque wrench and got a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter instead, and you would not believe what it said! It was warning me that the adapter contained chemicals known to the state of Kommifornia to cause cancer!

Sooooooo.... what brand of stove did you get?

I had no idea what it would have been. Its a good thing you found out what it was!

Believe it or not, but your gonna need to put that firewood somewhere else than the front yard. I dunno about your area, but if there are others who like to burn wood, they WILL take it. Wood thieves are not such an uncommon thing!

Can you take a picture of the vp44 like mike did in the article dripley provided?

You seem to be in a bit of a tight spot...Depending on how long you can borrow your fathers car, you could remove and re-install the transmission yourself. Depending on how limited you are on tools...2k is enough to buy the parts you need to do your own transmission rebuild. Problem is, if your limited on tools, you can't do it. You would have to source out the parts you don't have tools for to get a shop or someone you know who has the proper tools to do it.I'm not sure what this rattle is that you speak of... I would drop the pan and check out and see if your fluid is doing good and if you have metal in the pan. That is, if you have not done it already...Unless you have help from a couple knowledgeable guys, I doubt you would be able to pull off removal, rebuild, and reinstall of the transmission in one day. You would have to shoot for a few days off atleast. There has to be some give somewhere in order to make it work... You either need to wait until you can get more money to spend to have someone do it, or you need more time to DIY it.The cool possibility is that you may be able to find a place that already has a transmission ready to go for you, and all you need to do is just swap it. But, you may pay for it. It does not seem like you are gonna need anything special. I would think a good TC and an upgrade in your transmission a step up from stock would serve you fine. You just need a transmission that will handle the engine. You sound like you will be able to stay below the limits of the trucks rating for towing/hauling.So, here is what I would do:1. I would drive it as long as possible so I can further accumulate funds to have someone do the work for me, but depending on the condition of the transmission, you may cause hard part damage. Having someone do the work for you though, may take more than a day or two. But if you go this route, you should be able to meet the deadline for borrowing the car.2. If you want it done right, go a little longer on the transmission, accumulate more funds, soak up tons of knowledge and try and source the tools needed to do the rebuild yourself. Have a shop do the work you can't do. This will minimize unnecessary spending. This is an option that will save you the most money wise, and you will know what you have, but will take the most time.3. Find a transmission company that already has a tranny built up to what you feel is good for what your demands will be. Swap your transmission out, get a new TC and reinstall. Return the core...Take a look at revmax converters for your TC. They have good TC's from what I hear and they have a competitive price... You may not even need to rebuild your transmission. You just won't know until you open it up and find out. If the clutch packs and bands and all that kind of stuff is good, then maybe all you would need is a valve-body upgrade.I hope that it helped make your decison easier to decide on, and not complicate things further!

I assumed you meant that each manufacturer has their own opinions on their products and their performance. The best mileage I have seen from my truck is 18mpg. That was right after the my transmission job. Now its about 16mpg. I hope to get better with the injector swap. I'm gonna do the mpg fooler as well and hopefully down the road, a chip. Maybe I can break the 20 mark?

...Is this in tank unit still in the tank? If this in tank lift pump is still in the tank and you don't have a drawstraw or a modified basket, this is your problem! The AD is not gonna be able to suck nearly enough through a burned out in tank pump. Imagine trying to draw a soda cans worth of soda through a coffee straw all at once. Not gonna happen. IIRC, you had the work done. You need to check your invoice, etc. for what work was performed.

...the first order of business should now be a good swift kick in the ___. WEAR YOUR SEATBELT! Listen, she could have been EJECTED from the truck. Very few people who are ejected gain from the fact of being ejected. Your wife needs to rethink the small things about life. That simple little mistake of not making the click sound could have meant your kids going the rest of their lives without a mother. I don't mean to sound harsh, but this is life or death when you get into a vehicle. There is no routine!On the other hand, I hope she is okay, and you guys are spending quality time together.

...soapy water through the spray bottle trick.

WHAT ARE YA SAYIN'? ...is he F.A.T?

Looks like he said it was 15 psi while he cranked when the AD was priming? --- Update to the previous post... I'm thinking it is not the AD. It has to be something else. What about the overflow valve, or a vent lock? Or maybe it is the VP44 like mentioned before?

No, I think it was the MPG fooler thread that I was reading that moparman and others were mentioning that the edge box helped with mileage on top of the fooler. Had to do with the increase in timing... I'm trying to sell a pistol and rifle. I have an FNAR .308 semi-auto, and a FN 5.7x28. We got a gun show going on right now this weekend, so I'm hoping to sell it or trade it. But, I would entertain offers through the net. http://fnforum.net/forums/fn-guns-fn-items-sale/26041-fn-5-7x28-pistol-usg.html http://fnforum.net/forums/fn-guns-fn-items-sale/26040-fnar-308-a.html Hopefully, that won't get me in trouble...

I sold my edge comp box fpr $300. Its was made back in 2001 I think. But almost right after I sold it, I read up here about it would help with the MPG's. I was not very happy to hear that. Although, it looks like the newer programmers are about that, retail. I may try and get an edge programmer that has the monitoring and stuff. Won't have to cluster up my dash with gauges and stuff. Are these injectors you speak of new? They will last me about 1/4 mil. miles? I'm trying to sell a couple of my firearms right now, so hopefully I can come up with some more dough. As I think extra on top of this is not gonna make any brownie points with me and the wife. --- Update to the previous post... So, I have been looking around. These DAP injectors, are they better than these Rv275's everyone is talking about? I don't want to regret forking the money over, when I could have dished a little more for some better ones...

I'm trying to just think outside the box here and taking a shot in the dark, BUT... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/88-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve Guys, could this possibly be of any relation to his problem?

I have the controller mounted on the panel right under the steering wheel. My brake lights are working. I will double check when I get a chance, though. I suppose I'm gonna have to open up the underside of the dash and give it a look.Testing whether or not the trailer is energizing the pin for the trailer brakes is just a matter of using DMM at the plug and seeing if it gives it 12v, right?

These tornados are a perfect example of using a BOB. You essentially cannot Bug-in as they say. You have to bug out. Leave your bugging in location. A bug out bag is a pack of the essentials you need for atleast 3-days to get out of dodge. The trip you make from the location you leave to safety is where the BOB applies. What if you are stuck in the city and face the aftermath of the tornado? You gotta have supplies to survive. I'm sure typically people who live in tornado alley do not Bug out once a tornado comes or when the season comes. Although, I'm sure that after, they do leave when they are displaced.

...just a good reason to have your own BOB. BOB

Now that I think of it, if your AD is getting the right amount of pressure, it cant be anything to do with the AD. I have an idea. I can't remember if someone posted this or not, but trun your key to the ON position. Let the pump prime and shut off, then crank it. Then see what diff there is if you crank it when its priming.

Okay, by the sounds of it I should just do new injectors... I was looking: http://www.dieselautopower.com/category_s/448.htm Which injector do I go with? The one that has pictures? It also give a selection on what size injector. It has one for new injectors plus upgrade, but it says it ranges from 35-50hp. Or do I just choose something else? Looks like the 50hp upgrade is no charge? So how long will injectors last? Also, I kinda was leaning towards injectors as it seems like oil is always coming out of the breather. Even though I have done tons of up and down various grade driving. I checked the dipstick and its right at the full line. So I did not know if its just a fluke or if the injectors are leaking and washing out my oil... The wife is gonna love hearing me beg her on my hands and knees for the injectors.

I have no idea how many miles are on these injectors. But they are prolly OEM as the truck has just under 200k. How much would you charge to bench-test them?I have been debating to just get my gunsmith to machine me out a piece of iron or aluminum that will mimic the head so I can bench-test the injector. I need the hardline though. But thats not of a big deal as getting the block milled out...

I have an old mazda truck I was making into a lowrider in my teenager days. I was working on the front end stripping off the undercoat spray from the frame rails and it had a VIN stamped into the rails. The VIN is EVERYWHERE.He probably did not want you there so he could check to make sure the vins were not mis-matched and you were commiting fraud.

It was not a white puff of smoke, like in the article. It was more of a brownish green color. I was aware that I could encounter the gas, so I took the precautions to avoid it. But, the sudden change in wind direction caught me off guard... Once I saw it and took a little in, I just stopped breathing and held my breath so I would not inhale anymore and got out of dodge.I had a bit of a scratchy throat for a bit, but that was it...

..on a seperate encounter, I myself have also inhaled a slight amount of phosgene. Needless to say, it stopped me from continuin my work, instantly. Without a doubt, one of the worst things I have ever experienced...